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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • nnssnnss Posts: 2
    it works well, just isn't centered, should this be any problem? Now I am assured about the cv joint, thanks.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    This is more of an aesthetic concern than anything else. You can have the wheel pulled (it requires a nasty-looking tool) and repositioned, but it may be more trouble than it's worth, especially since they'll have to disable the airbag system while they're doing it and reset it when they're through, which adds to the cost.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    can also be corrected during a front-end alignment.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    My AC wasn't working on my 94 626 so I had it checked out. After two hours of troubleshooting and $130 later, the mechanic finally discovered why the AC didn't work. It seems that the AC compressor switch needs to be replaced and that it costs about $20 for the part but would take three hours of labor to install. This means it would run me an additional $215 to complete the job. Add the $130 troubleshooting costs, and the grand total is $345 to get the AC working for the summer. Has anyone else run into this similar problem with their 626 AC?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Is it possible that this additional charge is, in fact, a charge for evacuating and recharging the system with R-134? (The '93 was the last 626 to use R-12, I believe.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Actually, I forgot to add that it's going to cost an additional $50 to evacuate and recharge the AC with R-134 after installing the compressor switch. This would revise the grand total to $395 for the entire job.

    After already investing $130 for the troubleshooting, do you think it's worth another $265 to complete the job and get the AC working right, just in time for the summer? Or should I just sweat like a rabid dog's breath in Dante's inferno on a blistering, scorching day?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    What do you think? :)

    Before entering Mazdaland, I had a middle-80s Mercury Cougar that had both an A/C leak and stuck power windows. Talk about a rock and a hard place....

    (Oh, and it was $720 to get both the windows and the A/C fixed from my local independent shop.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Another revision: My AC mechanic assumed that he could get an aftermarket AC compressor switch for around $20 for my 94 626. He goes to find out that it's a Mazda OE part only and the cost is $120. Ouch! This once again revises the grand total cost to repair my AC problem to $495 (which includes the $130 I already invested for diagnostics).

    Basically, a very rough $495 will give me a blissful and heavenly feeling as I "zoom-zoom-zoom" in my AC-filled 626 for this summer season. Or, I could go without it and be in hell...
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Did you actually spend the $720 to get your AC and power windows fixed? If not, then did you just live with it until you got rid of your Cougar?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Whoever wound up with Deirdre got a semi-prize - almost cherry interior despite 148,000 miles, decent Kenwood stereo, fresh suspension bits, tires barely through their first rotation, the aforementioned A/C and window repairs, and a pair of studded snow tires for the back. Unfortunately, she also had a habit of munching on her head gaskets, which is why she isn't here now. The Ford 3.8 V6 is a textbook example of how not to marry iron blocks to aluminum heads; the 2.0 Four in the 626 does it right. (The 2.5 V6, of course, is pure alloy, which is a nicely-descriptive phrase despite being technically a contradiction in terms.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    After thinking long and hard about it, I've decided to go forward and save up the rest of the money to have the AC fixed in my 626. I came up with this conclusion when I asked myself how long I planned on keeping my car: Another 100K miles was my answer, which equates to about another 4-5 years.
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    My 1998 check engine light came on at about 52,000 miles it stayed lit all the time for about 2 weeks it went out at about 53,100 miles. It has now re-lit itself at about 58,000 miles. Does anyone have any advice. I hate to bring it to the Mazda dealer who know what kind of story they will give me. It a 1998 626 LX with a 5-speed manual and A/I and all the power accories.

    Any advice is appreaited

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    But there's a very good reason why that light is there. If you don't trust the dealership, find a worthy independent mechanic, but get those codes pulled. There simply is no "do this and the light will go away" trickery in the age of OBD II.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If the light is on the mechanic can put on the diagnostic machine and pull a code. It won't tell you everything, but it sure gives a good idea of where to troubleshoot. 3 months after replacing the spark plugwires and distributer, and one month after replacing a timing belt it ran rough. He went in an pulled the codes and found out that it had weak vacuum. Replaced for $25.00 diagnostics and $12.00 for the hose.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Believe it or not my best mechanics are from referrals of other mechanics. I asked my Mazda dealer if he had someone who recently left to set up his own shop. He recommended Bud, and I've been very happy. Dealerships have new mechanics who get experience and when they have it, they set up their own shops. His repairs are efficient, and accurate.
  • gurnagegurnage Posts: 1
    It never ends. Through countless problems ranging from a blown out transmission to a stuck gear shift to a bad idle (that is yet to be identified by numerous mechanics) to a botched paint job with bad oxidation. I have had it. It's time for a VW or Honda.
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    Just got home from my local Mazda dealer. Noticed my tranny (auto) was hunting gears & jerking yesterday. Then today I'm driving & it won't shift out of 2nd. I'm going 35 mph & I'm @ 5000 rpms!! And whenever I stop, it kicks down roughly & surges. NICE. I drove it straight to the dealer about 1-2 miles away, they tell me it doesn't do it when they drive it, I rode w/ them & it shifted fine but kept running hot. What the heck is going on? They tried to tell me take it home & if it does it again, bring it back. I told them I sure as h**l was not driving it until it was fixed, especially w/ it running hot. I had to take it in when I first bought it b/c it would hunt gears while cruising the hwy, they could never duplicate that either, then it seemed to go away. I told them I don't want to hear this "can't duplicate" crap anymore. I only have 25k on the car. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I think this might be a cooling-system issue, with the transmission getting bad data from the temp sensor and acting up accordingly. (And, of course, that same cooling system is also expected to keep the tranny fluid below a rolling boil.)

    No sign of the dreaded Malfunction Indicator Lamp?
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    To windowphobe6 - No check engine lights, no temp or oil lights, no nothing. They were at a loss at the dealership, like I said before. They're idiots anyway. It didn't run hot until I drove it w/ the tech. I will suggest your idea to them tommorow. I'm concerned about the tranny though, since I've experienced gear hunting before. The coolant was smoking like crazy when the tech popped my hood and opened the cap after the drive. I just hope it's not major. If they can't get it back to me tommorow I'm going to insist on a loaner.
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Interesting thing happened today. My girlfriend has been two months late on her bill from a local tire company. Apparently, they've made several attempts to try and get the payment from her.

    I guess they finally ran out of patience and showed up at our door to take the tires off the car. I couldn't believe that they could actually do this kind of thing.

    I go to find out that her loan on the tires was a secured loan (backed by the tires themselves). It's sort of like repossessing a set of tires when the loan becomes delinquent. Anyway, she called the manager at the tire store while the repo tireman waited, and luckily, she was able to negotiate arrangements with the manager and so they didn't take her tires off of her 94 626.

    Very strange incident indeed.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    She made a promise to pay for the things she bought, and they agreed to accept her promise, with the security of the tires as collateral should she fail to live up to her end of the bargain.

    She failed, so they took action. How is that strange?

    And how is that related to Mazda 626 Troubles?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,686
    The guy is just telling a story. Back off, man!

    I, for one, found it interesting. Never heard of acquiring tires that way before.

    '19 Ioniq plug-in, '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 50-car history and counting!

  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Quit being so tense in life. Perhaps if you relaxed more, you wouldn't be so unlikeable.

    Maybe I should tell you that my girlfriend injured her back and was forced to quit her job and therefore cannot pay her bills. Her back is so injured that the doctor has ordered her to stay home indefinitely.

    Before you start barking at people in this forum, maybe you should get the facts first.
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    agt_cooper, my post #570 relates to the "Mazda 626 Troubles" forum because the "trouble" was an attempt to reposses tires on my girlfriend's "94 Mazda 626". This forum is not limited to just bad trannys, failed oxygen sensors, and other random maintenance issues. This forum is about "ALL" Mazda 626 related "TROUBLES".

    Or do you not understand that?

    Oh, and by the way, FYI: As stated in post #570, my girlfriend did make financial arrangements with the manager and I have volunteered to make her payments for her.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I completely 100% agree with your post stating that this forum is for any and all troubles regarding the Mazda 626.

    Here's my latest story: I went to a professional sunroof company and had my sunroof problem diagnosed because it was intermittently working and not working. After checking the switches, they determined that they were 90% sure that it was a bad motor and that it needed to be replaced.

    I called the Mazda dealer and a brand new sunroof motor for a 94 626 was $364. Ouch!!! I said no way to that so I opted to go to the wrecking yard and was able to find a motor on a 96 626 for just $65 (and guaranteed to work or my money back).

    This coming Tuesday (6/19) is my appointment to get the wrecking yard part installed by the sunroof company. I will update ya'll on the end result of this risk I'm taking.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    This is one case where it's probably advisable to bypass the dealer anyway, since they have a tendency to quote four-digit figures for most sunroof repairs and they probably don't do enough of them to get really good at them.

    The vast majority of parts I've gotten from, um, recyclers over the years have worked just fine.
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    The more I read about these 626's, the more I realize that perhaps these cars really aren't that reliable.

    I went out to go in my girlfriend's 626 this morning and the factory alarm suddenly went off after unlocking the driver's side door. The horn kept going until I was able to call the dealer to get instructions in how to turn it off. The solution was to turn the key of the driver's side lock cylinder two times which caused the horn to finally cease honking. What a relief! I'm sure the neighbors weren't too appreciative.

    So here's my question: Anyone out there ever experience this same similar problem and what did you do to fix it? Apparently, I was told by the dealer that the alarm cannot just simply be disconnected without possibly causing other electrical problems and that my options are either to replace a possibly defective alarm switch inside the door or repair something in the computer module.

    It seems to me that Mazda really designed the alarm system very poorly if one can't just simply disconnect it if they please. Heck, in actuality, Mazda has made some bad designs overall with the 626's and it's no wonder more people buy Hondas and Toyotas.

    I think I'm going to persuade my girlfriend to sell her 94 626. Out of all the cars I've ever had a relationship with, her 626 has definitely been the most problematic of all of them. It has been nothing but one problem after another and without a doubt, the biggest money pit of a car I've ever witnessed in my life.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,686
    sorry to hear about your distaste for the Mazda. You really can't make blanket statements like that, though. There are plenty of people who many trouble free years out of their 626 (i'm one of them). In my opinion, the biggest reason why more people buy Toyotas and Hondas is because they are more in fashion. My sister has more problems with her 2 year old Civic than I've had with my 3 year old 626. She would have been better off with a Protege, but she sees so many more Civics around, the Civic just seems like the better choice.

    There are certain things the mazda stands out for. I test drove the Camry/Accord before getting my 626. Why did I pick the Mazda? Main reason was that I found it handled MUCH better than the others. It also helped a great deal that the salesman didn't feel like he was dealing out a solid gold car, unlike the Toyota and Honda salesfolks.

    Hey. get what ya like. Sell the car if ya want and the next owner will have a car with several of the bugs already worked out. :)

    P.S. It IS 7 years old. They can't last forever. My Toyota was right around 7 years old when it blew a head gasket and the exhaust fell off for the umpteenth time. Made it to about 9 years before I decided to pawn it off on someone else.

    Good luck.

    '19 Ioniq plug-in, '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 50-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    This particular alarm system is generally unobtrusive - I drove my '93 for two months before I realized I had it - but shutting it down is highly unintuitive, as I found out when I set off the darn thing one day in the office parking lot.

    The '93-'95 models were probably the least-reliable of any of the twenty-odd years of 626, though still about average compared with the rest of the vehicles of that vintage; the '94, with CD4E version 1.0, is arguably the worst of the lot, and the only one which draws the wrath of Consumer Reports. I didn't have quite so many issues with my own '93. However, if my correspondence is at all representative, when a fourth-generation 626 goes bad, it's often as not really, really bad.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I have to agree a little bit with godfather2 because I have spent over $3400 on my 94 626 in the last five months. I guess you might say I'm a little obsessive-compulsive with my seven year old 626. (Luckily, my family is sporting me the financial help with my OCB problem).

    In addition, I still have to replace my power moonroof motor (with a used one) that will cost me $115 parts and labor. And to top it all off, I am planning on investing another $365 parts and labor to replace the worn-out high pressure switch on my air conditioner compressor.

    This car has definitely been the most expensive car I have ever owned, but I'm only doing it because I am planning on filing bankruptcy real soon, and therefore, will probably need to keep this car for another five or so years before I can get financed at a decent interest rate. And of course, let's not forget to mention that I truly love the way it handles and the V6 5-speed is sure fun to drive. (Thank goodness I didn't get the automatic!)

    But will I ever buy another Mazda again? Probably not. I believe that the "other" Japanese manufacturers build much better quality cars; especially now that Ford Motor Company owns a one-third stake of Mazda. What a shame for Mazda. It's going to "zoom-zoom-zoom" its way into earning the same reputation as the B-leaguers of domestic car makers...

    BTW, I hope your girlfriend heals soon Godfather2.
  • Hi guys:
    I have a 94' 626 LX, Auto, V4.
    I bought this car 2 years back at 75,000 miles and now it has 94000 miles on it. Till last month, I didn't spend a penny on maintenance except oil changes at 3000 miles.
    I want to keep this car for atleast 3 more years, so I bought new tires (380$) and also got the MAF Sensor (225 $) changed since MIL was blinking.

    1) Now, the problem is that whenever I halt at the stop sign or signal, the car vibrates/shakes a little and makes some rattling noise from the dashboard...but when I put it in the neutral gear, it doesn't make that noise.
    2) The second concern is that when I had got the engine opened last month to get the gaskets replaced, the mechanic told me that it has a lot of sludge carbon deposits...and the previous owner must be very poor with the oil changes so I should sell off this car...This advice didn't make sense to me...
    So my question is: what should I do to remove all the sludge deposits...Last week, I got some oil additives from Walmart that are supposed to clean the engine...but I am not sure whether that will help. I want to maintain the engine nicely since 94 model design was not good.
    3) Should I get the engine flushed and then even start with synthetic oil every 5000 miles...
    4) What other parts of my vehicle need replacement since I already have 95000 miles on it....Should I get some sort of 90K mile service from local auto shop. I am not sure whether even the 60 K service was done or not ??? I don't want to spend lots of money on this vehicle but at the same time, I want to drive it peacefully for the next 3 years...Please advise

  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I hate to say this, but you're going to need a lot of luck driving that 94 626 of yours peacefully and painlessly within the next three years, especially with 95K miles and an automatic transmission.

    I don't mean to dishearten you, but if you read many of the previous posts written in this forum, the auto tranny with the 4-banger has had a notorious history of complete and catastrophic failure at a cost of around $2000 or more to repair and rebuild. There's even a group of very pissed-off customers who are trying to gather other pissed-off customers to file a class-action suit against Mazda regarding their automatic transmission woes.

    My suggestion is that if your tranny is still performing up to par, I would sell the darn thing as fast as humanly possible and get yourself a more reliable Japanese car from another maker.

    Or, you can wind up like me and the others in this horrific and merciless world of 93-97 Mazda 626 owners and the money-pit hell we've all fell into. Sell your car today! Sell it as soon as possible! Sell it right now, I tell ya'!!! If you don't, then you can forget having extra money for beer, cigarettes, and your renewal subscription to Consumer Reports and Playboy...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,686
    Nothing is guaranteed. For every one owner who has had problems with this car, there are hundreds who haven't. However, I would say it is a tad disheartening to have found out the previous owner didn't take care of it. That is not good.

    Hmmm... 95K. Well, windowphobe will be better to answer this, but I believe there is the necessity to change the timing belt (if not already done). If memory serves (its on this board several times, but I don't have the time to go back), the timing belt is a 60K item and, if it snaps, it very well may bash up the engine and cost a fortune.

    Also, if you just bought this car and are ready to sink a few bucks in it to ensure its life a little further, get a full service done on it. Change everything that can be changed, that includes having the tranny fluid and filter changed.

    good luck.

    '19 Ioniq plug-in, '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 50-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The FS engine is solid; the major problems with the '94 have been either electrical or transmission-related. There is some disagreement among the experts as to which flush method (if any) is the most useful. The dealership near me uses a system by BG that seems to work fairly well. Unless you're hearing HLA noise (the infamous Mazda tick), you probably don't need to switch to synthetic oil, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.

    Definitely change out the timing belt. It's a 60k item. And check the water pump while you have the timing cover off, since this is the ideal time to replace it.

    And with the CD4E transmission, you can't do the traditional drop-the-pan fluid change, so get it flushed.

    Assuming Mazda keeps the 626 nameplate for the '03 model and beyond - something not at all certain - I suspect that the fourth-generation models will be remembered as a brief aberration, a temporary wrong turn, the result of a combination of Mazda's horrible financial condition and some hurried measures taken by inexperienced Ford overseers. If only they weren't such fun to fling down the roads....
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Can anyone explain to me what an engine flush exactly does? My girl's car has a little over 100K, and if she decides to keep it, does anyone suggest doing it? How important of a preventitive maintenance is it to do an engine flush?

    And as for you, harry_mazda626, I would probably sell your car. I'm only making this suggestion based on my opinion that your 94 626 with the infamous auto trans probably isn't worth the risk.

    Believe me, if your tranny goes out, that $2500 job is going to tie your stomach in knots.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    These vary slightly, but typically, the oil is drained, and using some proprietary machine, a detergent solution is pumped through the engine, oil pump and valvetrain, which will presumably loosen up sludge and other unwanted stuff.

    The flush is not a cure-all. If the aforementioned unwanted stuff has already baked for years and turned into some granite-like substance, the flush will probably not remove it, but then it's probably not going to break loose and clog up your oil passages either, as sludge is wont to do.

    If you've been changing your oil on a regular basis since Day One, the flush is probably an unnecessary frill, but if you bought the car used, you generally don't know just how well it was maintained, so it might not be a bad idea. My own instinct is to do this for two oil changes in a row, to maximize the amount of crud removed, and then after that regular maintenance should be enough to keep the engine pretty clean.
  • hurryhurry Posts: 1
    hi, I have a 94 626 Lx V6. recently it has a big problem! first I found that the water temperature gauge points to NH'(high) only after about 10 minutes drive, so I asked for help from one of my friend. he add some water into the radiator, but before he adding water, he use tap water to cool down the radiator. the temperature is in right position after this but when I drove only about half a mile, I can't speed up and the rmp goes down to zero, then the engine was dead. my car was towed to a dealer, and they even can't figure out what's wrong with the car and they doubted that maybe the electric circuit got wet in somewhere and suggested to let it dry by itself.

    Did anyone experience similar problem before? Please give me some advice if you know anything about it?
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I can't believe it. Another 94 626 complaint from another poster. What is up with the 94 model? Is it because 9 + 4 = 13?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    As for this shutdown situation, I think it's actually two separate incidents that happened at about the same time - low coolant and thermal overload at the ignition module.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    I am apparently unusual for users on this site. I purchase cars at 60,000 to 90,000 miles and maintain them well until 200,000. I paid cash for the last 2 cars with this method. That saves a lot of stress.

    A few years I got a pamphlet from Tom and Ray of Cartalk. They gave a good piece of advice. Expect to spend $100.00 per month for maintenence and repair regardless of the age of the car. I started saving that amount directly from my paycheck and it has rarely been totally depleted.

    I have also found that on cars with higher mileage there will be very good years, and tough years. With my '91 Mazda I spend $348.00 for maintenence, repairs and license fees last year. This year my wife hit a curb. I had to replace, struts, strut mounts, control arms, wheel bearings, and ball joints. You can't repair just one side with these things. It cost me $1500.00 over the insurance, including 2 new tires. Worth it. YES. It now steers like it is new, with my 2.2 engine, (Can 2003 come soon enough?) I have more power than the ones being sold today. Gas mileage 25 around town, 34 on the freeway with air conditioning.

    Since you probably don't have a reserve, you will have to do incremental repairs. Here's the order I would do thing in.

    1. Clean the fuel injectors. Go to Jiffy lube and have them do their 3 step treatment to clean the fuel injectors and engine. This costs about $45.00 at Jiffy. They put an additive in the oil, to reduce varnish in sludge in the upper part of the engine. They then run a solution through the vacuum tube to decarbonize the injectors, and add some fuel remover to the tank. These cleaners will get up where the problem is. My '88 Dodge only ran well on Premium until I did this procedure. Repeat every 15,000 miles. Remember to run the tank almost to empty to get full benefits.

    2. Flush out the Radiator, powersteering, and change brakefluids. Put Lubegard into the powersteering ( Can be purchased at NAPA. My Mazda steering was flushed (burnt smell at 110,000) and refilled with lubegard and regular powersteering fluid. These should be changed out every 30,000 miles. Rust and metal shavings can hamper performance and accelerate wear.

    3. At the nest oil change put in a very good filter, Pure One, WIX, or Mobile one. They can get as low as 0.002 microns. I would put in a synthetic blend 20-25% (You can mix one yourself) or Castrol Syntec which is one of the new hydrocracked oils. It is recracked to produce uniform molecules, for beater wear resistence c, and is good on engine seals. These oils will help clean the engine better. Then take a long trip. Sludge usually builds up on short runs. Put 500 miles on it, and then check the oil color. If needed, do another oil change immediately. Always use a blend for a year before a synthetic on older cars. Synthetic cleans the engine, wonderfully, including the gunk deposited on the seals. This cleaning action can cause engine seals to leak. This is not a problem with new seals.

    I've got to go, but I'll do more on your questions later.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Should you do an engine flush?

    It does get rid of some oil. When I changed my oil less frequently I would use it occasionally with no problem.

    However, I have heard from mechanics that this might harm the motor bearings. And some have complained of gasket leaks after doing the procedure. If you decide to use since you seem to have bumming, have a professional do it, and then, after draining, put in 4-5 quarts of cheap oil, run it again for another 5 minutes to rinse it.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    blame the mindless spellcheck.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Harry wrote,

    1) Now, the problem is that whenever I halt at the stop sign or signal, the car vibrates/shakes a little and makes some rattling noise from the dashboard...but when I put it in the neutral gear, it doesn't make that noise.

    One regularly overlooked maintenence item is tightening the Motor mounts. They should be tightened every 30,000 miles. Generally minimal labor cost.

    Possibly a loose screw in the dash.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Continuing my other response.

    Change oil every 3,000 for a while. That may help.

    I am anything but a mechanic, my experience has been in the school of hard knocks and
    unnecessary repairs.

    4. Do extra repairs with an timing belt change. Don’t get stranded, don’t harm the engine, get the
    belt replaced soon. It’s covered and is hard to examine. When you change the timing belt
    at 90,000 change the crankshaft and cam seals. At 90,000 I changed the timing belt on my 1991.
    Now, at 115,000 I have camshaft and crankshaft leaks. I now have to spend $280.00 when it
    would have only cost $60.00, if I’d replaced them at the time. You might also want to consider a
    preventative water pump replacement. Same reason.

    5.If your transmission is working OK, I would do a transmission service and add Lubegard for
    the transmission. I had an engine that vibrated after an accident, and Lubegard in the
    transmission tegether with synthetic oil really made it smoother. Might stop the dash vibration as well.
  • z88z88 Posts: 5
    Hi, all

    When I turn on my A/C, I have this strange smell come out of the vent. Is there anything wrong with the A/C system or just because of it is getting old? In addition, I notice the airflow from the passenger side vent near the window is weak, what'w wrong with that. I have a 96' ES-V6 626.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,686
    you've got a sandwich stuck in there or something. :)

    But, seriously, it would account for the smell and the low flow, right? How about a dead mouse? How bad is the smell? I'm just shooting in the dark here.

    '19 Ioniq plug-in, '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 50-car history and counting!

  • Thanks you guys for all your advice...I really appreciate it...
    Most of you guys think that I should sell-off this car..and you guys won't believe what happened...After that MAF sensor fiasco (minor maintenance) and after reading all the bad stuff about 94' 626, I decided that I am gonna sell this car. I even gave an advertisement in the Washington Post and other online sites as well.
    I vacummed/cleaned/washed/waxed my car. And put up a "FOR SALE" sign on window. And then took it for a drive...I felt soooooooo good at that time, that I changed my mind about selling it. I got around 5 phone calls for it, but I told everybody that I have already sold this car...Most of you guys will think that I am a LOSER...But for some reason, I love this car...especially because this is my first car...
    But now, I have finally made up my mind. I am gonna maintain it for 3 more months and sell it off in October. (I just hope that the transmission problem doesn't creep up during this time). And I will use Mazda OEM oil filter and Mobil-1 synthetic oil during my next oil change ???
    What do you guys advise/comment ???
  • aleskalesk Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Mazda 626 LX still under warranty. It's about ready for the 30,000 mile tune up. However the local authorized service center in Oakland quoted $650 for that service.
    That seems quite high to me. Does anybody know another provider in the local area that might be both reliable and more reasonable in pricing.

    [email protected]
  • z88z88 Posts: 5
    Come on, qbrozen, be serious!! The smell is not as bad as it is in your car :)

    Anyway, I thought about changing the air filter to block some dirty air from outside. Is that a solution? I am not good at cars. Is there even an air filter available for Mazda 626?

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,686
    the smell in my car is due to medical issues beyond my contro ..... oh, wait, you were joking, weren't you? Um.... my car smells fine ....

    Anyway, the air filter is a good question. Windowphobe? You still here?

    Well, I'd have to wait till the weekend to be able to check that out for ya if nobody else knows. I'd like to know the answer to that myself. Maybe I could stick an air freshener right on the filter and take care of that ..... um .... scent.

    '19 Ioniq plug-in, '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 50-car history and counting!

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