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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    Does anybody know if it's possible to put a manual transmission on a car that had an automatic? I mean - relatively easy...
    ... after all I read here (and having a '94 626 V6 with very jerky transmission) I start to think - well, if possible and cheaper I might get a manual (everybody says its a good unit) instead, when my tranny dies...
  • Pay a visit to, a discussion board for owners of the Ford Probe/Mazda MX-6 (and, by extension, the 626, which is a sister ship), and run a search for "tranny swap". You'll find a few actual success stories, and some bruised knuckles.
  • I am one of the fools who bought a 1996 Mazda 626 4cyl. auto trans and the transmission is shot at 59,400 miles. Total estimate $3000. The car died on I-10 in Tempe, AZ after the O/D light came on for about 30 minutes. The manual doesnt mention what could be wrong if that warning light blinks on and off. How do I notify the DOT and start some legal procedings against Mazda? There's no way this transmission should be shot after 4 years.
  • Sorry, forgot to put in a title in my previous message

    I recently bought a 1999 Mazda 626 from the Hertz car sales. It is in great condition but I have a small problem. The Hertz guys buy directly from the factory and they have never programmed the keyless entry modules that come with the car. They have given me 2 brand new keyless entry modules and a flow-chart with instructions on how to program the keyless entry modules but no matter how many times I try to read and try, it does'nt seem to work. Has someone else gone thru the same experience, if yes or if you know anything about programming the keyless entry modules for the 1999 Mazda 626 LX, I am interested in hearing it.

    Thanks in advance
  • The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration maintains an online complaint form at

    The blinking of the light means that some electrical malady has befallen the transmission, or the components connected to it; it doesn't bespeak actual transmission failure per se. (Of course, when it does fail, there usually isn't a whole lot of doubt.)

    I don't recommend anyone file suit against Mazda (or anyone) without getting competent legal advice first.
  • I have a 98 Mazda 626 LX and the O/D light flashing problems started to occur before my car reached 30,000 miles. It happened twice on the highway. The car would shift roughly. Turning off the car for several minutes seemed to resolve it. The dealer kept telling me that occasional O/D flashing was "normal" for this car. During my trip to LA today the O/D light started to flash. I pulled over and placed the gear to park, and turned off the engine. When I started back the car, the automatic transmission no longer worked. No matter where the shifter was set, the front wheels were locked. I had to have the car towed for more than 100 miles to the nearest dealer. At just 47,500 miles, its quite shocking to have what most likely is the transmission die out.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    Does anybody know how to adjust the vertical aim for the headlights?There is a screw for the horizontal adjustment, but for up/down the owner manual just says "go to the dealer". There is a air bubble level so the up/down adjustment should not require even to turn on the lights, but I can't find the screw... Well I also don't want to break anything so... And sure as hell I don't want to pay the dealer for that...
  • I bought a new Mazda 626 two months ago. I have 2800 miles. The transmission is bad. They say it will take a week to get a replacement cranny. Rebuild. A new car with rebuild cranny? What else do I have to look forward to with this car?
  • My mother just bought a 2000 626 4 cyl with automatic transmission. The car will not shift into gear on some days. After repeated tries the car will lurch into gear. Has anybody heard of this problem and what the solution is? The dealer was of no help.
  • The record is still 70 miles, but we're crowding it a bit.

    Is this the four-cylinder or the V6?
  • On the face of it, it sounds like the shift linkage is screwy, but this merits examination by another dealer. (There's a lot to be said for getting a second opinion.)
  • I have a '94 Mazda 626 LX. Everything seems fine except that at speed above 55mph, the car begin to shake. The higher the speed, the more heavily it shakes. I am not sure it comes from the engine or the front tires. So I went to do the alignment. Unfortunately, it doesn't improve the situation at all. If anyone has some idea about this, please help me.
  • Rotate the front tires to the back, and vice versa. If the shaking seems to diminish or to relocate, the tires that were on the front were the culprit. (I had something similar happen on my '93.) Tires can go out of round, and clip-on weights for wheel balance can sometimes get dislodged. Neither of these conditions will be fixed by an alignment.

    I doubt it's a motor mount or anything; if you're doing 3000 rpm at 60 mph and it's jittery, it would be jittery if you were doing 3000 rpm in second gear at about 25 mph.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    Forget about the headlights. Found it. Just don't know how I missed it before...
  • Well I just hit 100k. I don't have any real complaints. Clutch is still good and the engine is great. Just had my left CVS axle replaced (cracked left boot, right axle boot was changed at 60k), O2 sensors just went and my radio antenna hasn't worked in about a year so I finally had the motor disconnected. And yes my car rattles too and rotating the tires doesn't help. Overall, though, I'm pleased.
  • I posted back in mid-August that I had to replace the transmission in my wife's 1996 Mazda 626 V-6 (auto) at 82,000. Well 10,000 miles and 19 weeks later....the transmission is slipping between 2nd and 3rd. Fortunately, the $2100 that I spent on the repairs in August came with a full 1-year warranty. I'm Hoping to God that when I pick it up Wednesday that I don't have to pay a dime and that it is properly repaired (wishful thinking huh?).

    The engine light came on this week. Codes indicated both the transmission slipping and engine misfiring. Oddly enough, those were the same two error codes I got back in August -- causing me to replace valve cover gaskets/plug/wires, etc.

    I still owe $8,900 on it and am concerned about what the road ahead will be like. Anyone have a crystal ball I can borrow? Should I bail out or stick with it ?

    My '87 626 4cyl 5-speed ran like a champ for over 13 years until 3 weeks ago. Engine locked up. So now I'm the proud owner of a 2001 Chevy Silverado.
  • Unfortunately, you're not going to get anywhere near $8900 for it, so you have to guesstimate whether you're going to spend the equivalent trade-in (or whatever) loss in time and repair charges.

    Around 85k, there are things that can happen to these cars - oxygen sensors go south, CV boots start to crumble, valve cover gaskets start to weep. None of these things is particularly expensive in itself, but the thought of the triple whammy might put you off. (Conversely, if you've already had to do these things, you may be immune for a while. I had a CV joint replaced at, um, er, 85k.)
  • How can you possibly still owe $8900 on a '96? Did you finance for 10 years?

    I have a '97 financed for 60 months and only owe about $5,500.....

    Are you sure about your numbers?
  • Maybe he bought it in, say, '98 for about $13k?
  • My personal feelings about financing a used vehicle more than 36 months are:
    1. you paid too much for it
    2. You're APR is too high
    3. You're buying more car than you can afford
    4. Your're monthly payment is to low. bump it up.

    My theory seems do-able if the cost is under 10k. Anything beyond 10k and you bettrr have a trade-in or a good down payment.
  • Car had 80k when I bought it and now has 104k. Runs hella good to be so old. I love this car (my second 626) and I don't want to get rid of it unless I have to.

    So its at 104k and I am think its approaching 'The Infamous Transmission Problem' that most of them suffer from and I'm not too sure what to do. My OD light flashed once about a year ago. Lately, once in a while it will hesistate when shifting gears. It's not so bad yet, and I will of course get rid of it when it does get horrible for a Millenia.

    But my question is, should I have any maintenance done on the Transmission or just leave it alone? I have heard all kinds of horror stories about them failing right after the fluid was changed or a new seal. Maybe a new filter. It's been doing very well all these years and I don't wanna mess up a good thing.

    My mechanic says the timing is perfect on it and the Dealership also says its fine and they don't recommend changing the fluid at all. But I'm not so sure if leaving that old fluid in there is such a great idea.

    Also, while changing out the fuel filter, I managed to get a look at my (Actually very clean and shiny) Transmission. I never really believed all that crapy Ford business until I saw the Ford sticker on it. It said "Quality Renewal". Does that mean its environment friendly or that it's a replaced transmission?

    Any suggestions on Tranny maintenance is much appreciated.

  • I'm considering buying this car...I checked it out it's very clean inside and out with a sunroof. It has 95000 miles on it. The current owner had it for about one year. He said there has been no major repairs. He wants 3950. I just want to know does anyone know anything about this car and how much should I make an offer for it?
  • My wife's 99, 626 ES went dead at work, barely jumped, driving home it surges back and forth a lot, tcs light on, abs light on, systems light on, cd player making strange noises like its try to find a disk, all kinds of stuff. She got home, I go out and it will not start again but the radio works so it has some power. Is this a battery problem, computer problem, what? The dealer is 30 miles and we may have to tow or should I try a new battery?
  • Last time I had a battery going bad, I got some random electrical glitches, which cleared up once the new battery was installed, so I'm inclined to believe that the battery's probably toast, though you should have the entire charging system checked on general principle. (Batteries sold on the replacement market seem to last a lot longer than OEM batteries.)
  • This was the last of the third-generation cars, and the last year the North American 626 was built in Japan. Most systems are sturdy. There aren't that many real issues with the '92, other than the usual car-getting-old things. Definitely check the A/C; Mazda was still using R-12 in those days. Maybe he'll go for $3600?
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335
    Have you asked this question over in the Smart Shoppers Board? Also try a search on "626" and you should get lots of hits.

    Maintenance & epair Message Board
  • I have been told that the code on my '97 626es says that the EGR booster valve is the problem. It is an automatic with 32k miles. What is the EGR booster and should I have this problem this early? The dealer estimates repair cost at $375. Should I get another opinion? Will it make things worse if I drive it like this for a while? I 'm trying to payoff Christmas first.
  • The idea of an EGR system is to route exhaust gas back into the intake manifold, which cuts down on the ultimate level of oxides of nitrogen. Anybody with a suitable OBD II scanner is going to pick up the same code, so it's probably pointless to get a second opinion unless you really, truly distrust the first shop. Driveability may be affected, but what's more likely to happen is that you're going to fail your next emissions test. (If you don't live in a place that routinely does smog checks, be sort of grateful.) I used to have a Mercury that would go through EGR valves the way teenagers go through snack chips, and it was Not Fun (not to mention Not Cheap).
  • dsp44dsp44 Posts: 1
    I have 94 626 with 130,000 miles. Overall, it has been a reliable auto with one minor exception. Every so often it decides to stall in neutral. And it continues to stall until you let it sit overnight. The next day it is fine. Just reviewed our maintenance records and I see we have mentioned this to the dealer 5+ times starting at 13K miles. They usually can't verify it because it cannot be recreated at the dealership. Once the dealer cleaned the AC valve and fuel injection system. No luck. Any ideas?
  • My first instinct (this and $2.99 will get you a combo meal at Mickey D's) is to check the wiring at the neutral safety switch on the transaxle - perhaps there's a questionable ground, which would account for its intermittence.
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