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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    I have 88' Mazda626 which has 4cyl fuel injection,
    185K. It runs OK except idle speed fluctuation in
    cold weather. The idle speed fluctuates between
    1500 and 2000 rpm when the weather temperature
    below mid 40F. I cleaned throttle, replaced PCV
    valve, distributor, wires and plugs. It's still
    there. Is there anyone who has such experience
    and knows what kind problem it may be, temp.
    sensor, idle control valve, or .... Thanks.
  • I have a 1996 Mazda 626 and the O/D light stated flashing. I took it to the dealer and was told that the transmission had a sensor go out and it caused the fluid to overheat and the transmission need to be replaced. The car has only 54,000 miles. Also have a neighbor who experienced the exact same problem.
  • pmc3pmc3 Posts: 1
    My car is coming off lease and I'm thinking of doing a buy-out on it. It has 33,500 miles, has not been in the shop for anything, and has not had any maintenance other than oil changes. If I buy it, what do you recommend be done right now regarding maintenance? For instance, should I change tramission fluid, coolant, plugs, etc.? Thanks for any advice.
  • Flush the coolant and the transmission fluid, and rotate your tires if you haven't already. If it's running fine, you can probably hold off getting new plugs until 60k, when you definitely need to get your timing belt replaced. There are plenty of items that could use a quick visual check - brakes, CV boots, belts - but these tend to wear out quite a bit later than 33k.
  • It could be the IAC valve, but it could also be a leak, either in a vacuum line or in an air intake.
  • My 1993 Mazda 626 ES V6 auto is broken in the road when I was going to the auto repair company for changing oil. I can start the engine but it didn't move a inch when I pressed the accecelerator. They towed my car to their workshop and checked it. They told me a 'converter' in the tranmission is broken (I think it's torque converter, right?) and needs to be replaced. And they told me the price will be about CDN1500 all together.

    Just want someone expert here to tell me if the price is acceptable.

    Thanks a lot.
  • Replacing one of those things south of the 49th parallel will run a bit over a thousand bucks American, so $1500 Canadian doesn't sound too far out of line. Probably half that price covers the labor to remove and remount the transaxle, which is an all-day job (as in "charge 8 hours labor") at best.
  • nclarknclark Posts: 5
    I was at a used car dealer Yesterday. The person told me that the V-6 was made by Ford. Does anyone
    know if this is really true?? I am thinking of getting a 97 or 98 soon . Thanks
  • Thanks Windowphobe6.

    Having no spare money on hand to fix my Mazda ES V6 so I towed my car back home today. I had a test for luck and it's so magic that it moved again fluently both forward and backward. So I think it was sure not the problem of torque converter and the dealer lied to me.

    OTOH, was the problem simply because it ran out of transmission fluid yesterday? Yesterday the dealer confirmed me that there was only a little tranny fluid and they poured in a lot. But I remember right after they added fluid the car also didn't move.

    Would like to learn from experts here if it's safe to drive my car again on the road.
  • The 2.5-liter V6 in the 626 (and the base Millenia) is a Mazda engine; the 2.5-liter V6 in the MPV is a Duratec from Ford. They have nothing in common other than design parameters (they're both DOHC 24-valve engines delivering 165-170 hp) and approximate dimensions.

    The major Ford component in the 626 is the CD4E automatic, which wasn't used in the six-cylinder cars in those years.
  • Well, it's possible, I suppose - but that takes an awful lot of luck. I'd say drive it; if it fails, you're no worse off than you were.
  • I have read now several complaints about the '95, '95, and '97 tranny on 626 going out shortly after they hit 50K miles. I have filed a report with the DOT and encourage everyone to do it. They said they do not track these things unless they get reports from consumers. Call 1-888-DASH -2-DOT.
  • The '97 was the last of the 4th-generation cars; they weigh about 200 lb less than the newer ones, so if you're worried about zero-to-sixty, the '97 is the choice. On the other hand, the '98 model abandoned hydraulic lifters for adjustable ones, which means occasional valve service but a lot less of the infamous Mazda tick. Do check the valve cover gaskets on either year - they tend to get flaky about the time you need to change out the timing belt.
  • nclarknclark Posts: 5
    I have heard of tranny problems with the 4cyl but not so much with the 6 cyl. Can you enlighten me more thanks.
    WINDOWPHOBE-Thanks. Any other tidbits you may like to share???
  • Neither of these transmissions is likely to last as long as, say, your average GM Turbo Hydra-matic; this is one thing that the General seems to do better than anyone else. The Mazda units date back to 1987, with major redesigns in 1988 (geez, one whole year?) and 1993, so by now they should be fairly well debugged. Ford's autobox entered the scene in 1994, and had two or three fairly traumatic years; the new version isn't much different, but the most egregious flaws have been engineered out, so I'd expect some level of improvement on this front.
  • timdetimde Posts: 1
    please is there someone that can help i have a hydraulic cluch i am having trouble with it engageing i think it might be low on hydraulic fluid ware and how do i refill
  • There's a master cylinder for the clutch - look on the firewall near the brake booster - and a reservoir attached thereupon. If it's low, go buy a fresh bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid (the stuff doesn't age well) and fill it up to the specified line. If it gets low again, you have a leak, most likely either at the master cylinder itself, or at the slave cylinder, which should be mounted on the side of the transaxle.

    (After '92, they went to a single reservoir for both brake and clutch - I think.)
  • 280zx280zx Posts: 1
    I used this thread to help understand an issue with this model--the rough idling and loss of power. I took one post and gave it to the dealership. They checked the gaskets and found them dry. Then they replaced the spark plug wires which corrected the problem.

    I have had this 94 626 ES V6 since it was new. It now has about 31,000 miles. Here is the maintenance that it required beyond the 15,000 and 30,000 mile dealer check-up and regular oil changes. In 1999, it had a leaking oil pressure sending unit and it was replaced. This week was the rough idle and the spark plug wires. In total, the cost for these two items was about $275. That is $275 over 31,000 miles and six years. The 15,000 and 30,000 check-ups were $300 and $450. I did relace two batteries. One was normal use and the ohter one was because I left the lights on for a day. The rest is oil changes.
  • I bought this car one month ago and it has 20K on it. The cruise control works fine until I turn on my headlights, which shuts off the cruise control. Or if the headlights are on the cruise won't work. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it something simple?
  • There are four notches in my car's tranmission fluid dipstick. It looks like

    2 4 handle
    1 3

    Would someone please tell me I should add fluid to which level?

    Thanks in advance.
  • The positions 2 and 4 are the Add and Full lines, respectively, for when the transmission is at normal operating temperature. If it's cold, you use 1 and 3, though they are presumably less accurate. (This is presumably the Mazda transmission; the Ford box has a different dipstick. The stick may be marked "20" and "68", as in degrees Celsius.) The difference between the Add and Full lines is half a pint.
  • There being no normal connection between the two functions, something is obviously wrong with the wiring, and it's impossible to tell what it is for certain without a whole lot of circuit tracing. If this car had DRLs, maybe....
  • I have the 2.5 V-6 (1997 LX 5-spd). I recently cleaned the throttle body, using a Gumout product. When I was done, it was much cleaner, but still not back to the white metal color. The car runs a lot smoother, too.

    I'm wondering if the cleaner is supposed to remove every trace of gum and deposits from the throttle plates, etc.?

    I've heard ads for "BG" products, but not sure they would do any better.

    Any thoughts? BTW, 45,000 miles on the car.
  • The local dealer here uses BG stuff, though I haven't experimented with it myself; I figure if the engine is running well, the throttle body is probably clean enough.
  • The reference manual says I should use Mercon III fluid. But I can only find Dexron III/Mercon type in Canadian Tire (and others are type F).

    Can I use this type for my Mazda?
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Be sure to check over in our Sedans conference for an active 626 topic - that's where you will probably find a lot of owners of a newer model.

    Good luck.

    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • HEy windophobe6,

    My transmission really started to act up so I took it to the mechanic. I need a new transmission, $1900. To rebuild is 1000 dollars. Third gear is gone & reverse is slow, that's what they told me. I now get an updated transmission with new electronics & a 12 month, 12000 mile warranty. WHat do you think. The car is a 1993 with only 57000 miles on it. I am the original owner. PS. WHen I took it to the mazda dealer their response to when I suspected transmission trouble was "wait till it fails" WHat a bulls___ answer. I gues I'll keep the car for another couple of years.
  • Well, one of the reasons they told you that is simply this: Mazda dealers don't do rebuilds. Corporate policy, at least in North America, is to swap out any transmission that requires more than seal/gasket/pump replacement, so they perhaps reasoned they were doing you a favor by telling you to wait until the last possible minute. Not my choice of arguments here, but I'd bet that was what they were thinking.

    57k does seem awfully early for a GF4A-EL to go south. Are they replacing all seven solenoids (I hope)?
  • Well, there's mine, but since I've only had it three weeks, I really can't say a whole lot about it except "Gee, wouldn't it be nice if they'd develop a stronger four-banger for these cars?"
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    As former 89 323 and 97 626 LX owner I can clearly state that Mazda is way away from its previous reliability. I had 2 tranny replacements within 35K along with all other electrical problems,power locks problems etc. I unloaded the 626 and lost 1K. Since Ford has involved, quality has gone down.
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