Mazda 626 Troubles

windowphobe6

They've moved it at least once over the years, I think. I seem to recall that it was in the far right corner of the fuse box in my '93, but in the '00 I drive now, it's front and center. (In the far right in the newer car is the main - which is to say, the computer - relay.) Either way, it's a cube with prongs at the bottom, one of about half a dozen such.

windowphobe6

At 45-50 psi? I don't think so.

jonbgood

on my 99 626 4 cyl. It was right where Windowphobe said it would be - just northeast of the aircleaner housing. Ended up not doing anything with the relay fuse after discussing with a relative mechanic. Only fuel I lost was what was in the filter itself. Very hard to change this filter. I disconnected and unmounted the cruise control acutator to be able to get my hands on it. Still have plenty of cuts on my hand for the trouble. Hopefully this will solve my engine missing problem.

jonbgood

Has anybody successfully installed (DIY) a tranny cooler on the 626 4cyl AT? I know it shouldn't be too hard - just wondered whats involved and how you know which hoses to pick up etc...

artist672

On long trips (at least 2 1/2 hours) the tranny overheats and spews tranny fluid all over the engine compartment. This usually happens when the overdrive light starts to flash. It seems to be a design flaw which Mazda does not own up to. They will hit you with a $475 repair bill for aN EXTERNAL COOLING UNIT. Anyone have similar problems please contact me. artist67@netzero.net

mrdetailer

Coolers should be installed on this for best transmission preservation. I would escalate this case, or offer to pay half of the cost. You're right that no transmission fluid should be leaking, but the cooler will really benefit you in the long run. Is there a TSB on this issue?

stevep12

Mr Detailer and Conrad-
Thanks for your input. They wanted $500 to replace both O2 sensors. That caused the engine light to come on-4 trouble codes. It wasn't oil in the tailpipe, it was unburned fuel. The O2 sensors were making the engine run lean. You were right about the clunking noises-struts and bearing plates to the tune of $560. $356 to do the timing belt. Now, I'm just trying to decide what tree to find all this money on. Maybe I'll just wait for an '30 Mazda 6!

mrdetailer

Thanks for the feedback. Everything you are describing except for the O2 Sensors I had to do with my 1991.

If your car is a 1995 you don't have to use factory O2 sensors. I just purchased one for mine at $99.00. You can go to the buyoxygensensors.com site and order them even cheaper -- about $65.00 for OEM types, or order them from Autozone (I got a Bosch) then have them install it while you're doing the other repairs. I would not get the Universal O2 Sensor. Some type of soldering has to be done. Avoid the chance for extra labor.

Do the valve cover and timing belt at the same time. At the price they quoted, I would make sure that included the Cam and crankshaft seals and new spark plugs when the timing belt is changed. Sorry, but you might also want to consider a water pump at the same time for about another $100.00 plus labor (much less since most of the labor involves the removal of the timing belt). Saves a lot of money in the long run.

I'd let the struts and mounts go a while longer until the other repairs have been paid for.

I've done everything you needed, plus a CV Axle. but the car is sure fun to drive. I feel confident with the manual transmission, that it will last a long time.

stevep12

I think it might kill me to get rid of this car. There is nothing I don't like about it except for the cupholders. I've been looking and test driving, but nothing new really has appealed to me. I looked at buyoxygensensors.com like you said, they show the universal for $52.99. Any reason I should avoid these? AutoZone quoted me $70 ea. You're right-it's a lot of fun to drive.

mrdetailer

What happens is that the OEM has all of the proper connections already fastened to the end of the sensor. One side of the sensor has threads, but at the end of the wires there are special plugs. The universal ones are missing them. Someone has to solder the wires from the Universal Sensor to these special plugs. More room for error.

In my view the OEM has more solid connections, and is so much easier to install, it's worth the extra $15--$25. Since mine had never been changed I felt it better to shift labor responsibity to someone who would have to fix it if they broke it. (i.e. not me.) Mine only cost another $25.00

ian18

I replaced the OEM O2 sensors on my '93 626 V6 engine with Bosch ones. Cost was about $100 for both, with $50 rebate from carparts.com. The Bosch look like better quality than the OEM and had no problems with fit. Also immediately cured the check engine light problem. I would not spend a penny extra for the Mazda parts.

mrdetailer

I mean one with the correct connections allready attached from the factory. I DON'T MEAN THOSE RIPOFF DEALER ONES. It's those 4 wire 1998 and new that are not available from anyone else right now.

I also put in a bosch and loved it.

stevep12

mrdetailer- I replaced both O2 sensors on my 626 this weekend for $64 ea from AutoZone. The check engine light hasn't come on since. Thanks for the help. Now I just have to save up for having the timing belt done.

mrdetailer

I've been amazed myself about how much difference those stupid sensors can make. Good luck on your timing belt. I recently did the timing belt, replaced the seals and water pump at the same time. Cost $600.00. $300.00 of that was timing belt labor so it's still best to have it done at the same time.

jonbgood

with the 4cyl engine (1999) is it catostraphic or does the engine just quit running? I know that at 60k we're supposed to change but I'm probably going to try for 80k based on what my Mazda mechanic told me. My only concern is if it my screw something up - then its obviously not worth the gamble. A tow wouldn't be terrible.

jonbgood

I've noticed several posts about 02 sensors for the 626. My car (99 4cyl - 58k miles) is starting to miss or putter when cruising along at 50 mph and trying to accelerate. It is pretty consistent about doing this now. Today for the first time when accelerating from a slower speed it was very hesitant and the CEL came on and blinked for a while before going out. I replaced the fuel filter and have some plugs and wires ordered. If this doesn't do the trick I guess I'll try to replace the 02 sensors. I couldn't find Mazda in the list of makes on buyoxygensensors.com site. I was quoted a price for OEM at some online place for approx.$72 for both sensors. How hard are these to change out yourself? Any feedback would be appreciated.

taydarr

O2 sensors do not make your car miss when they fail. You may notice a slight decrease in gas mileage and the check engine light will come on but that is all. There are 2 of them on the 626. One is located in the front of the engine on the exhaust and one by the catalytic converter on the underside of the car. The front one is very easy to change and usually the first one that needs replacing, but the underside one is a little bit of a pain. You need a special socket to change that one. Do it your selfers can purchase the special socket at any local autozone for about 5 to 10 bucks. Jonbgood, you probably need a new set of sparkplugs. The check engine light will come on if a miss in the engine is detected. Change the plugs and leave the negative battery terminal off for about 10 minutes and reconnect it to reset the computer. See if that solves it. The next step would be to check the plug wires, though they usually are good for about 90k miles before they start arcing. Make sure you apply some electric silicone grease to the end of the spark plug or inside the spark plug boot to prevent any arcing and keep things lubricated and dry after you install the new plugs. If this does not work then change out the wires. Leave the O2 sensors alone. They should last a lot longer. Good luck!

jonbgood

Thanks for the help!

mrdetailer

This inexpensive part can cause a lot of rough running if it isn't working properly.

jonbgood

My Mazda dealer wanted over $20 for a PCV valve. I was shocked. I ordered one from Partsbin.com for a little over $3. Ordered NGK plug wires, NGK plugs and the PCV valve for way less than my dealer was going to just sell me plug wires.

sewtech

We just bought a pre-owned 91 Mazda 626 about 5 months ago. The other day after driving it to the store I got back in, put it into drive and drove for about 100 yards and the car seemed to go into neutral. The engine runs fine, it just won't go in any gear. A light on the dash keeps blinking HOLD, but depressing the Hold button on the shifter doesn't do anything. Any suggestions?

vesperka

My car (98 6cyl - 36k miles) is experienceing the same trouble as jonbgood's '99. The transmission seems to slip or putter when I'm on the highway between 50 & 65 MPH and just keeping my foot on the gas to maintain my spped. I took it to the dealer with 35,972 miles (just before warranty expired) and said it was driving me crazy. They said their computers didn't find anything wrong with it. They said they don't know what else they can do for me. Have a lot of you out there experienced this same problem?

jonbgood

I'm assuming the trouble with mine is spark plugs and/or plug wires. I will be changing both out on Sunday and will let the board know if it solves my problem. Also I will be replacing my PCV valve. My plugs were changed out at 30k (I'm assumining yours were too) so I'm betting the new plugs with about 28k are OK but I'd be changing them out for preventative maint. anyway @ 60k (in 2k more miles). I had a Toyota Celica which started acting this way years ago. Took it to a diagnostic center. They charged me $80 bucks and said I needed new wires.

windowphobe6

Theoretically, this can mean something electrical that reports to the transmission has failed, but more likely an internal tranny part has gone south. HOLD flashes represent codes, and can be similarly pulled for diagnostic purposes.

taydarr

I agree with windowphobe6, your transmission probably has a major internal failure. Hopefully you did not pay too much for the car. These transmissions are not cheap.

readytobuy1

I have a 2000 626 4-Cyl with about 19,000 miles on it and the acceleration and gas mileage leave much to be desired. One of the reasons I bought the car was because it took regular unleaded, unlike many others that require mid or premium gas. Has anyone done anything, other then putting a turbo kit in or something drastic like that, to improve performance / MPG???
PS I'm lucky to get about 300 miles out of a tankfull....

windowphobe6

Well, yeah, the four-cylinder is kinda slow off the line, especially burdened with the autobox - you're not going to squeeze off even 17-second quarter-miles in this sedate sedan. On the other hand, once up the onramp, I keep up with all but the biggest of the big boys just fine.

I think the secret to getting better mileage out of this car is to quit thinking about improving MPG and just drive the heck out of it. By the standards of people steeped in the culture of Consumer Reports, my driving is self-absorbed and utterly unconcerned with the Greater Good; on the other hand, I routinely beat the EPA sticker on both 626s I have owned (the current example of which is, yes, a 2000 four-cylinder with said autobox). Middle of last summer, in fact, I got nearly 33 mpg running down the Pennsylvania Turnpike, a road which is not in the least bit conducive to steady speeds. With the A/C cranked up to just short of the Glacier setting, yet. Around town, 22-23 mpg, unless I'm slogging through snow or other winter-inflicted miseries.

Mazda, for some reason, thinks you should be really, really impressed by the low-fuel light, and that you should fill up the moment it bathes you in its hideous orange glow. There are, of course, good and sensible reasons why you should never let a fuel-injected vehicle run out of fuel, but unless you routinely commute across the Mojave, three gallons left is way too early for an alarm, if you ask me. (300 miles divided by the 13.9 gallons of fuel you used up to get down to this point is 21.6 mpg.)

That said, yes, this car would probably get 1 or 2 mpg better if it had 150 hp instead of 125-130; the engine wouldn't be working so hard so often. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to mind being flogged.

mrdetailer

Granted the 626 is a small engine, but like Windowphobe, I find the midrange torque more than adequate.

Cheap things to increase power are replace PCV valve, and get a new air filter. Too new yet to replace sparkplugs, or time the engine. I was amazed recently about the influence of a PCV valve on engine power when I replaced it. My gas mileage is similar to windowphoebe.

ddavis7

ddavis7

I have a 95 626es with manual transmission and 143k on it. It runs great but the check engine light comes on periodically for 1-3 minutes at highway speeds only. On a 400 mile trip it came on 3 times. This has been happening for over a yr and 1/2. During that time I have had both sensors replaced, the spark plugs, and air intake leak corrected. There is no code longer in the computer when it is checked. Any ideas?

flamazda

flamazda

Any idea what the 'typical' A/C cycling rate is on the 626's-4 cylinder? When 2001 car was new, was 5 seconds off, running about 14-16 seconds. Dealer said it wasn't fully charged. Added coolant, and for about 2 months went for about 5-7 seconds off, 30-35 on. Now, 3 months later, about 5 seconds off, 10 seconds on, etc. Know its a function of temperature, but its been in the mid 80's here. Any problems with leak area on this one? Wonder what this frequency cycle has done to the clutch/compressor?

jonbgood

My "missing" problem has been solved by replacing PCV valve, plug wires and plugs. Runs great!

mrdetailer

Multiple causes make it hard to find a complete fix. Glad you were able to fix it relatively cheaply.

mazowner

I have a 95 Mazda 626 LX with auto transmission and about 75 k miles. Recently, the O/D light starts to flash although the O/D still appears to work. I also noticed a hesitation/knocking during the gear transition at low speed. Don't have any problems at high speed. Does anybody know what the problem might be? Does this indicate the start of a transmission failure? - Thanks.

mark38l

In response to a earilier post, my 98 Mazda 626 with 75,000 miles. The low fuel light comes on approx. 100 miles before the tank would be empty.

pretty poor calibration on Mazdas' part

windowphobe6

Prepare to write large checks. It could be something electrical, but it probably isn't.

taydarr

If you are getting proper cooling out of it I would not be concerned with the cycle time. Based on the temperature, it will run on longer when it is hotter out and run on shorter when it is cooler out. This preserves fuel and puts less strain on the motor. Sounds normal to me.

taydarr

Probably your torque converter failing on your transmission. Get it in the shop ASAP! Eventually it will fail and leave you stranded. There is a chance that just the torque converter will need replacing but if you wait too long there will be little pieces of it in your transmission system if there already is not. That will require a complete replacement. Sorry! Had mine go out at 59K but I had extended warranty so cost me nothing to replace. There is a problem with these Ford built trannys as most on this board know. The re built has lasted 140K so far so they fix the problem on the re builts. Just make sure you replace fluid every 15K with a complete flush at 30K intervals.

skibry1

Our Doubleought 'Freeport' w/ a clutch is
zoom/zoomin' along with no problems.Our 130 ponies
can "Keep up with the big boys" no problem and
I'm wondering if I should pay for the EW at least
for the final 3yrs of payments? She hasn't given
us a lick of grief.Those workers in FlatRock MI
sure put together a fine automobile and I'm not
sure if that money would be better spent elsewhere.

tdreo

2001 626LX 4 Cyl automatic with 21,500 miles.
Exactly one year old (yesterday).

Started shifting funny this morning on the way to work. When I got to work, (25 mile trip) I put the transmission into park and the O/D light started flashing. Now I have no reverse, it "slips" like crazy in all forward grears and the O/D flashes. I had hoped all the Ford transmission problems had been worked out by now, guess not. Hope I can make it home today!

maltb

I wouldn't bother trying to get home. Call the dealer and have them pick up your car and drop you a loaner.

windowphobe6

Basically, you're betting that your car is going to break down, and putting up a substantial sum of money to back up that bet. This strategy wins only if you expect the cost of repairs over the warranty period to exceed the amount you're putting up plus the amount you could have earned by investing it elsewhere. I am not persuaded at this time that I would so benefit. Your mileage, of course, may vary.

chreph

I am only going to be 20 years old this year and have had my '95 mazda 626 for over a year. At first, me and my wife were going to trade it in for a new car, but have now decided to "soup it up" and keep it until it dies on us. It currently has 137K's on it and we think it will last us another 100K if we keep good care of it. I really want to add power to it though because I am dying for a V-6 and need to increase this car's power to hold me over. What can I do to add horsepower? I really don't know much about cars, but I hear a lot about getting a "turbo kit". Does anyone know a website I can check out to see about getting a turbo kit or anything else I can do to give me a little more "get up and go". Thanks.

craigs4

Before you waste your money hot rodding the 626 get it inspected by a good mechanic. Also check out www.probetalk.com It is a group of Ford Probe, Mazda MX6 and 626 owners who discuss all aspects of repair adn modification of these cars. Your 4 cylinder is equal to a basic Probe when you look at the site. Sign up and you can use the search feature. A turbo would cost at least $1500 and probably destroy your engine and or transmission at your mileage. Do some basic modern maintenance that is cost effective and will improve performance and longevity. a dealer is the best place to get these. First get an engine oil flush, an automatic transmission flush ( if you have an automatic), a fuel induction service also known as a carbon cleaning service. Get the cooling system flushed and the power steering system flushed. A new Hot Shot or PRM air intake will add a few horsepower and make it feel faster on the but-o-meter. So will installing synthetic oil and transmission fluid. Has the timing belt been replaced? YOu maty be almost ready or overdue for the second one. How about the clutch or automatic transmission, are they original? IF so, they will die soon. With that mileage do the maintenance listed and save your money for a new car in a few years. Or, for less than the cost of the improvements and required maintenance you could sell yours and buy a newer V6 model Mazda 626. That is what I would do, and I have a 94 MX6 V6 with many modifications,but only 75,000 miles. Do not become too attached to a car just because you happen to own it. They almost can all be replaced with something better.

billcoop382

Darn. Bought a 626 a few months ago with the intent of 16 yr old daughter driving for a while.
Power steering quirky, so I started checking out
the boards for any maintenance issues with this
vehicle. ( Consumer reports likes the maintenance history of this model ). Imagine my sinking feeling when I read post after post of tranny problems with the 4 cyl. Car has only 27,500 miles on it at this time, should I sell ASAP?
I don't mind paying for regular maintenance, even beyond the suggested items, but the thought of a $2K tranny on a vehicle this new makes me queasy.

I bought import for her with expectations of trouble-free driving with the normal maintenance performed.

Would welcome any imput/hand-holding.

mrdetailer

The 626 is a great car, but the automatic transmission does need some care. My Mazda mechanic is a 20 year specialist for Mazda. He recommends the following Initially. Purchase 2 bottles of Lubegard Automatic Transmission Treatment from a NAPA store. Completely Flush out the existing transmission fluid. Drop the Tranny pan then replace the filter and clean out any existing filings on the magnet. Restore the transmission fluid mixed with Lubegard in the proper ratio.

After that a drain and fill with Lubegard should be done every 15,000 miles after that. If you wish to use synthentic that interval can be extended to 25-30k.

At 67K My son's 626 was starting to have difficulty shifting between first and second gears. We did the above treatment and everything worked fine a few days after the fluid was completely replaced.

Another good thing to do is install a good transmission cooler. My mechanic does that as a routine if a replacement transmission needs to be installed.

Newer vehicles don't have the same problems that cars built in the early to mid 1990s.

windowphobe6

Obviously it's not bulletproof yet - there are still posts in here about failures on the New And Improved versions - but they've made some strides, and the most blatant design flaws have been engineered out. I still think the 2-3 shift is a little more ragged than it ought to be, and all the shifts are bumpy when it's cold (duh!), but by and large, it's become a respectable tranny, despite its lack of longevity awards.

Having said this, I must also say that on day 1096 of ownership, I will probably tack on that auxiliary cooler.

paul29

The late model 626 4cyl. transmisson does not have a bottom pan, or filter that can be serviced. Filter can only be changed on a teardown as it is internal, case must be split to access. Fluid can be drained and replaced with fresh though.The Ford sourced trans. has had design defects which until corrected , the most rigid maintenance schedule in the world will not help, nor will a cooler either. Ie: up until at least 1997 , there is a bad gasket flange which may not keep it's gasket in place. This allows the pressure to the lockup clutch to lower , under certain conditions the clutch slips ,this overheats the fluid very quickly causing it to boil and blow out the vent hole.You then get the blinking o/d light and vehicle goes into limp mode , if the trans is allowed to cool it usually will work normally until the next time but transmission is basically toast .This is but one problem, there are others.

tdreo

Got my 2001 626 back yesterday. They replaced the tranny. She claimed I was the first 2001 she had to replace, lucky me! Any how, all seems well. It seems to shift smoother than the old one did when it was new, or maybe I just think it does. I asked her what it would have cost me had the warranty been expired and she said the rebuild tranny would be $2500 and another $1000 labor, if anyone is interested.

Tony