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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 21,964
    Wow. Did you have the RE-92s? (i think that's the number).

    I figure I'll have to replace them after the summer, but I've got 38,000 on mine. I've loved them. I may even get another set. When I can take a relatively sharp onramp at 50 and barely get a squeak out of my tires (while my passengers are making more noise than that), I'm fairly impressed. Do I impress too easily?

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    At 70k, you're probably due for an oxygen sensor, but then plug wires seem to get flaky around this time too. First have the codes pulled (an idea whose time has come), and see if they identify the offending component. None of these is particularly expensive, though as a general rule, college kids really can't afford anything anyway. (Like I should talk.)
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    Thanks for the info. on my last post. I had another question. My 626 is approaching 175,000 miles and the last time I replaced the timing belt was at 112,000. My question was: Should I replace the water pump along with the timing belt this time becoz the last time I changed the water pump was less than 2 yrs. ago (whenI last changed the timing belt) ?

    So it just seems like a waste of money to do it again so soon. Also would anyone happen to know how much I should pay for a used passenger side door for a 1993 626 ? Thanks again,


    P.S. Love this car.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Water-pump life on these cars is usually quite a bit greater than 63k; unless you have some reason to think it's ready to spew through its weep hole or something, save your money for now and replace it at your 230k timing-belt change. (And if it goes bad before that, then change both pump and timing belt.)
  • windwingwindwing Posts: 3
    I want to buy a 93 Mazda 626 LX (76k)at 4K .I just wonder if someone can tell me what general problems I should look for and is it good deal?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    They gave me $3500 for mine last year, and then turned around and sold it for $5900. :)

    I think we've pretty much exhausted the list of Potential Fourth-Generation 626 Issues; there must be dozens of such posts in this thread alone. The '93 predates all the Ford-transmission stuff, which might be a useful thing to know.
  • windwingwindwing Posts: 3
    Hi, I'v got some questions. Maybe you guys can help me out.

    I had that 93 LX checked up by mechanics and they told me that "brake rotator" ??needs to be changed and it would cost $200. According to them , the thin brake rotator would cause the car shaking when braked at the stop sign, Actually , I did notice some shaking when the car stopped at the traffic light, is it caused by that or others ?Another thing is the transmission fluid is dirty but not smelled burnt. Is it OK or should I just do something with it?

    By the way, is it kind of suspicious for a 8-year old car with less than 76K(bought from a used car dealer two years back by the current owner, no previous service record except the current owner's and he doesn't even know if the timing belt was changed or not)?Does anybody know how to tell if there is a rollback? I need the information to decide if I should by the car. Thanks!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's highly unlikely that the odo has been fudged. I'm guessing the guy bought it somewhere in the 50k range and just never thought about it.

    He probably also never thought about tranny fluid either, which is why it's kind of grey and nasty-looking. Not necessarily a problem, but not a good sign either.

    A warped brake rotor would cause some shaking on the way to becoming stopped, but its effect once you're already stopped is quite a bit less. The '93 LX I used to have would quiver a bit under those conditions, which I attribute to less-than-ideal NVH techniques and the laws of physics; the V6 is simply smoother than the four, at some particular RPM things will resonate, and any irregularities in the idle are likely to be excruciatingly obvious.

    If you buy this thing, prepare to peel off about $550 right away - for the timing belt that wasn't done, the warped rotor and a transmission flush. If, after adding in that $550, it's still in your price range, buy with a happy heart. :)
  • nnssnnss Posts: 2
    I would like to buy a 92 Mazda 626 DX (93k)at 2K. My friend who test drove it said the cv joints need to be replaced and three tires are almost worn out so must be replaced as well. I am just a little bit worried why the cv joint is craking (Could it be the result of some accidents?). I checked the history and it is clean, however the seller said the he maintained everything by himself since he bought it at the beginning of this year. He changed the alternator and battery.

    In addition the steering wheel tilts left. Is that normal? I am going to have it checked by mechanics tomorrow morning. Could you give some suggestion on the problems I should be pay attention to? Thanks. This would be my first car and I just read some posts here and learned a lot from you. Thanks a lot.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    CV joints are sealed in rubber boots to keep their lubrication in and dirt and grit out. Once that seal is broken, whether the rubber dries out and cracks or is torn open, the joint's days are numbered. I had to replace a boot and a joint at around 85,000 miles on a '93 626; this is common enough an occurrence that I'm inclined to believe that this is about as long as the rubber boots will last. Rebuilt axles are available and are comparatively inexpensive.

    By "tilt", do you mean that it's not exactly centered or that it's not perpendicular to the steering column?
  • nnssnnss Posts: 2
    it works well, just isn't centered, should this be any problem? Now I am assured about the cv joint, thanks.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    This is more of an aesthetic concern than anything else. You can have the wheel pulled (it requires a nasty-looking tool) and repositioned, but it may be more trouble than it's worth, especially since they'll have to disable the airbag system while they're doing it and reset it when they're through, which adds to the cost.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    can also be corrected during a front-end alignment.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    My AC wasn't working on my 94 626 so I had it checked out. After two hours of troubleshooting and $130 later, the mechanic finally discovered why the AC didn't work. It seems that the AC compressor switch needs to be replaced and that it costs about $20 for the part but would take three hours of labor to install. This means it would run me an additional $215 to complete the job. Add the $130 troubleshooting costs, and the grand total is $345 to get the AC working for the summer. Has anyone else run into this similar problem with their 626 AC?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Is it possible that this additional charge is, in fact, a charge for evacuating and recharging the system with R-134? (The '93 was the last 626 to use R-12, I believe.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Actually, I forgot to add that it's going to cost an additional $50 to evacuate and recharge the AC with R-134 after installing the compressor switch. This would revise the grand total to $395 for the entire job.

    After already investing $130 for the troubleshooting, do you think it's worth another $265 to complete the job and get the AC working right, just in time for the summer? Or should I just sweat like a rabid dog's breath in Dante's inferno on a blistering, scorching day?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    What do you think? :)

    Before entering Mazdaland, I had a middle-80s Mercury Cougar that had both an A/C leak and stuck power windows. Talk about a rock and a hard place....

    (Oh, and it was $720 to get both the windows and the A/C fixed from my local independent shop.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Another revision: My AC mechanic assumed that he could get an aftermarket AC compressor switch for around $20 for my 94 626. He goes to find out that it's a Mazda OE part only and the cost is $120. Ouch! This once again revises the grand total cost to repair my AC problem to $495 (which includes the $130 I already invested for diagnostics).

    Basically, a very rough $495 will give me a blissful and heavenly feeling as I "zoom-zoom-zoom" in my AC-filled 626 for this summer season. Or, I could go without it and be in hell...
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Did you actually spend the $720 to get your AC and power windows fixed? If not, then did you just live with it until you got rid of your Cougar?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Whoever wound up with Deirdre got a semi-prize - almost cherry interior despite 148,000 miles, decent Kenwood stereo, fresh suspension bits, tires barely through their first rotation, the aforementioned A/C and window repairs, and a pair of studded snow tires for the back. Unfortunately, she also had a habit of munching on her head gaskets, which is why she isn't here now. The Ford 3.8 V6 is a textbook example of how not to marry iron blocks to aluminum heads; the 2.0 Four in the 626 does it right. (The 2.5 V6, of course, is pure alloy, which is a nicely-descriptive phrase despite being technically a contradiction in terms.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    After thinking long and hard about it, I've decided to go forward and save up the rest of the money to have the AC fixed in my 626. I came up with this conclusion when I asked myself how long I planned on keeping my car: Another 100K miles was my answer, which equates to about another 4-5 years.
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    My 1998 check engine light came on at about 52,000 miles it stayed lit all the time for about 2 weeks it went out at about 53,100 miles. It has now re-lit itself at about 58,000 miles. Does anyone have any advice. I hate to bring it to the Mazda dealer who know what kind of story they will give me. It a 1998 626 LX with a 5-speed manual and A/I and all the power accories.

    Any advice is appreaited

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    But there's a very good reason why that light is there. If you don't trust the dealership, find a worthy independent mechanic, but get those codes pulled. There simply is no "do this and the light will go away" trickery in the age of OBD II.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If the light is on the mechanic can put on the diagnostic machine and pull a code. It won't tell you everything, but it sure gives a good idea of where to troubleshoot. 3 months after replacing the spark plugwires and distributer, and one month after replacing a timing belt it ran rough. He went in an pulled the codes and found out that it had weak vacuum. Replaced for $25.00 diagnostics and $12.00 for the hose.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Believe it or not my best mechanics are from referrals of other mechanics. I asked my Mazda dealer if he had someone who recently left to set up his own shop. He recommended Bud, and I've been very happy. Dealerships have new mechanics who get experience and when they have it, they set up their own shops. His repairs are efficient, and accurate.
  • gurnagegurnage Posts: 1
    It never ends. Through countless problems ranging from a blown out transmission to a stuck gear shift to a bad idle (that is yet to be identified by numerous mechanics) to a botched paint job with bad oxidation. I have had it. It's time for a VW or Honda.
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    Just got home from my local Mazda dealer. Noticed my tranny (auto) was hunting gears & jerking yesterday. Then today I'm driving & it won't shift out of 2nd. I'm going 35 mph & I'm @ 5000 rpms!! And whenever I stop, it kicks down roughly & surges. NICE. I drove it straight to the dealer about 1-2 miles away, they tell me it doesn't do it when they drive it, I rode w/ them & it shifted fine but kept running hot. What the heck is going on? They tried to tell me take it home & if it does it again, bring it back. I told them I sure as h**l was not driving it until it was fixed, especially w/ it running hot. I had to take it in when I first bought it b/c it would hunt gears while cruising the hwy, they could never duplicate that either, then it seemed to go away. I told them I don't want to hear this "can't duplicate" crap anymore. I only have 25k on the car. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I think this might be a cooling-system issue, with the transmission getting bad data from the temp sensor and acting up accordingly. (And, of course, that same cooling system is also expected to keep the tranny fluid below a rolling boil.)

    No sign of the dreaded Malfunction Indicator Lamp?
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    To windowphobe6 - No check engine lights, no temp or oil lights, no nothing. They were at a loss at the dealership, like I said before. They're idiots anyway. It didn't run hot until I drove it w/ the tech. I will suggest your idea to them tommorow. I'm concerned about the tranny though, since I've experienced gear hunting before. The coolant was smoking like crazy when the tech popped my hood and opened the cap after the drive. I just hope it's not major. If they can't get it back to me tommorow I'm going to insist on a loaner.
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    Interesting thing happened today. My girlfriend has been two months late on her bill from a local tire company. Apparently, they've made several attempts to try and get the payment from her.

    I guess they finally ran out of patience and showed up at our door to take the tires off the car. I couldn't believe that they could actually do this kind of thing.

    I go to find out that her loan on the tires was a secured loan (backed by the tires themselves). It's sort of like repossessing a set of tires when the loan becomes delinquent. Anyway, she called the manager at the tire store while the repo tireman waited, and luckily, she was able to negotiate arrangements with the manager and so they didn't take her tires off of her 94 626.

    Very strange incident indeed.
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