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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • dgreene40dgreene40 Posts: 2

    I've got a 98 626 LX-V6 5spd with approx 29000 miles on it. The car's been fine, and the only problem I've had has been replacing the weatherstripping on the driver's side door.

    Anyways, I've got two things that have bothered me for some time that I've decided to let a dealer try and fix (while the vehicle is still under warranty).

    1. The car has a tendency to hesitate/surge while cruising at high speed. It's very slight, and not noticable on the tach, but enough to feel. It seems to be especially apparent when running A/C.

    2. There is an intermittent clicking noise coming from (I think!) the left corner of the dash. It seems to happen over bumps, when accelerating, and sometimes just when cruising. It's annoying, and I've got a feeling the dealer won't find it.

    Help from anyone experiencing similar problems would be most appreciated!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,076
    I also feel that surge in my '99. I guess its not help to you because I've done nothing about it. I think it is something with the AC, so I just ignore it. But, then again, mine's a lease and I'm not keeping it when its up next year. Anyway, guess I just thought you'd like to know its not just your car.

    As far as the noise, I don't have that problem.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Assuming all connections are up to snuff, I'd first check the relay that regulates the fan.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I assume it's a minor electrical voltage drop. The A/C compressor cycling on and off can produce something like this, though it doesn't have to be A/C-related. The ECU immediately attempts to compensate, and if you're feeling a "surge", it's probably slight overcompensation.

    Of course, if you're running cruise control, there are going to be all manner of slight irregularities as the ECU struggles to maintain the set speed no matter what.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,076
    I guess I should be specific with mine (as it may differ from the other poster). The surging is going on constantly. Its not a matter of an occassional thing. Its very slight, but it occurs with the regularity of a heartbeat. Like he said, you can't even see it on the tach, but you can feel it in the pedal.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • dgreene40dgreene40 Posts: 2
    It's the same on my '98... very slight surging, but constant. I don't think it happens without A/C.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    They'll definitely have fun with these things.

    On my drive home today, I decided to watch for just such a condition, and my particular finding - and this may have nothing whatever to do with anyone else's condition - seems to be that anything I feel in the pedal is the result of squirrely road conditions being fed through the suspension and into the cab; engine and wind noise levels seemed to be unchanged. Roads with billiard-table smoothness are as unknown in Oklahoma as Green Party candidates, so this will have to wait for my next out-of-state trip for any further research, but for now, I'm guessing that whatever problem you guys have, (for the moment) I don't, which leaves me way short of inspiration.
  • Help,
    My 85 626 will start like a charm but stalls as soon as you put in gear.
    Any suggestions?
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I noticed that due to some water damage (caused from a slight leak that may have been there for several months), the outer edges of the sunroof headliner inside my 626 is tearing very badly. However, other than that area, the overall condition of the headliner is very good.

    I called a couple of upholstery shops who gave me a rough phone estimate ranging between $200-$300 to replace the complete headliner. Since only the sunroof edges are worn, is there a "patch job" or a "quick fix" that anyone can recommend that I can do to overlap the area so that I won't have to replace the whole headliner? Right now I'm using duct tape as a temporary fix but it sure kind of looks "low-budget" - literally.
  • bud25bud25 Posts: 1
    I bought my 1994 mazda 626 lx with a 4 cyl. and 5-speed about a year and a half ago. After having some ticking noises coming from the engine I had a rod break in the engine. The beginning of my nightmare of the mazda 626
    I had a mechanic friend (ASE certified) put a new rod, rings, timing belt in the engine. I also had the head and crankshaft machined. Ever since I got my 94 626 back, I've had problems. It is blowing out blue smoke from the tail pipe when I drive the vehicle or if I rev the rpm's up when sitting in neutral. It has a bad ticking noise, and besides all that I have got starting problems.
    basically It starts, but then dies right away.
    Then when I try to start it again, it just keeps turning over like it's flooded. I then can get it started occasionally by putting the pedal to the floor and cranking the engine over, sometimes pounding away on the accelerator pedal seems to help it along. Once it does start, I have to keep it idling at about 3000rpm's or it will die again. After about 3 minutes the car suddenly smooths out and runs fine.(excluding the blue smoke and ticking noise)

    My friend said that all my problems are just engine management problems. But the dealer said that their was no codes and It was an internal engine problem.(oil getting into the cylinder)
    P.S. My friend said that after a few thousand miles the new ring seals would seat and the blue smoke would stop. Well It's been 3500 miles and the car is burning oil and blowing blue smoke.

    ??Who is telling me the truth??
    What can I do to fix this nightmare and get it running good enough to sell it and get something new.??? I would appreciate some good advice, I've been dealing with this for about three months now and have spent over $1,300.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I'm surprised that the oil pump wasn't replaced during this semi-overhaul.

    "Nightmare" usually translates to "I took the cheapest way out, and this is what I got." At this point, you're probably better off looking for a rebuilt engine. Of course, that was also the case three months and $1300 ago.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,076
    windowphobe, couldn't this be a timing problem? After all, the belt was replaced by his friend. Just a thought.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    That could account for the lousy drivability, to be sure, but it's not enough to generate plumes of roiling blue out the tailpipe all by itself. (And why didn't Mr. ASE Certified think of that instead of trying to pass it off as an engine-management problem?)

    It won't hurt to check the timing just once more, just in case. And if the belt is one tooth off, not that difficult to do on these little DOHC darbs, replacing the belt in the correct location (I wouldn't recommend reusing a timing belt on general principle, even with only 3500 miles on it) should ease the stalling and such. I don't think it will help with the oil spew, but taking it one problem at a time is sensible.
  • am2181am2181 Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,

    This is my first time posting to this board. What a pleasure it is to discover that I'm not alone in my Mazda grief.

    I have a 97 626 LX 4 cylinder automatic. I bought the car with about 68,000 miles and have since put about 18,000 miles on it over the span of a year. It ran like a champ until about a month ago when it started acting up.

    When driving home one day, I noticed that the car resisted during hard acceleration or very high speeds. That is, when I stepped on the pedal, it accelerated fine, but halfway through it would resist - making it feel like I was taking my foot off the pedal for a split second over and over, even though it was firmly planted. It began as a very minor inconvenience, but seemed to get worse over time. I had the fuel injectors serviced and the fuel filter replaced hoping it help, but noticed no improvement. Finally, about 2 weeks later, the CEL came on and I took it in for diagnostic.

    The shop had the car for a week and two days, but hopefully (crossing my fingers), it's now fixed. They seemed pretty convinced that they pinpointed the problem. They said that my O2 sensors were both bad and had to be replaced. In all, this job cost me about 800 bucks. 200 to figure out what the problem was, 500 for parts (249.98 per sensor - ordered directly from the Mazda dealership)and the balance for labor. I don't know if I got ripped off or not (to my amateur eye, the sensors look like they could cost 2.49 each rather than 249.98), but I'm hoping that at least the problem is taken care of.

    I also have another, apparently unrelated problem: After the car warms up, I notice a rattling sound from under the car during acceleration. It doesn't happen all the time, but it ONLY happens during acceleration. The mechanic said that it probably won't hurt the car if I left it alone, and, after blowing 800 bucks as it is, I wasn't about to jump at the chance to spend any more.

    Anyway, just wanted to share my story. If anyone else has/had similar problems, it'd be great to hear about your resolutions to them.

  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I've already shared this in prior posts, but if this makes you feel any better, I've invested over $3400 in repairs on my 94 626 in the last five months and I still have to replace my sunroof and replace my AC compressor switch (approximately another $1000 combined).

    BTW, my car has 101K miles and rattles like crazy all over the dashboard area. And in regards to my .02 sensors, I paid my mechanic $25 to diagnose and bought Bosch .02 sensors from an independent parts store at a cost of $140 for the pair. Then I paid the same mechanic $50 to install (for a total of $210 for the complete job).

    The only time I would ever buy dealer parts is when an aftermarket part isn't available. Dealer parts are absolutely a rip-off especially since aftermarket parts are just as good for half the price (and even lower). Furthermore, I would never go to a dealer to work on my car when there are competent Mazda mechanics that work for independent repair shops at a much lesser expensive rate (unless of course you live in a small town and your options are limited).

    I used to love my 626, but the financial burden caused by a consistent flow of costly mechanical problems has become too overwhelming and has taken the fun away from my ownership experience. I now regret that I ever bought this car in the first place. However, I hope this information I shared with you will help save you money in the future. Good-luck.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    An error in my post #645: The grand total for the complete .02 sensor replacement (parts and labor) should read $215 and not $210. I failed to edit my post because the time had expired.

    It's part of my obsessive-compulsive behavior and the perfectionist in me to correct such an error. Maybe that's why I keep spending money on this car. I'm just glad I have a five-speed and not the infamous auto trans. I'd probably have to increase my medication if I had to invest another $2500 to fix the tranny...
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The only thing Mazda-specific about them, I believe, is the connector; other than that, they're fairly generic 4-wire jobs. If the failure isn't due to the old connector, you should be able to splice it onto a generic sensor and plug it in. The dealership generally will not think of this.

    On the subject of rattling during acceleration - this is probably a minor bit of detonation. (The four-cylinder car doesn't get the fancy knock sensor that's on the V6.) Unless it gets worse, I wouldn't worry about it, and if it does, it might go away with a switch to 89 (instead of 87) octane.
  • am2181am2181 Posts: 5
    Thanks RPM and Windowphobe for your insights.

    Well, it looks like the auto shop didn't exactly pinpoint the problem after all. When driving on the freeway today (one day after having the repairs made), I noticed the same symptoms as before (resistance upon hard acceleration or very high speeds). Then, sure enough, shortly after getting off the freeway, the CEL came back on. Essentially, after blowing 800 bucks, my car appears to be in the same condition as it was when I brought it in in the first place.

    For some odd reason, I feel as if I'm being taken for a ride. I guess I'll wait to see what happens on Monday when I take it back in.
  • viks123viks123 Posts: 1
    I have a '98 626 LX-V6 with 95000 miles on it. I am the original owner. I haven't had any major problems, changed the plug wires (more later), fuel filter, oil changes, etc.

    Recently I started having a overheating problem and I am still searching for the cause. This will be a bit lengthy, but I figured the more info the better.

    History: The engine would start to overheat while I was driving. I would use the heater setting on the dash to cool it some until I could pull over. I found that I was low on coolant. This was because the coolant reservoir had two stress fracture cracks in it (in the underside corners above the Full mark) and when under pressure, the coolant would shoot out in a nice little stream. (A side note: this coolant would get on the belts and make them squeal when the engine was started. But would go away after the fluid dried). I bought a new coolant reservoir from the Mazda dealer to install myself. The service manager said he had only seen this one other time and in that case the guys engine was running hot because the thermostat was stuck closed and he blew his engine. On his recommendation, I got a thermostat (not from Mazda). I replaced the reservoir and the thermostat and the car seems to run fine now under normal conditions, but starts to run hot when I use the air conditioner and seemingly only at highway speeds. The engine fans run fine. Tested the old thermostat and it opened fine. If I shut the air conditioner off, teh temp. comes back down. The engine is running about 210 deg F under normal usage.

    I have also found that the air conditioner is not nearly as cool as it use to be, and I am fairly sure I have a leak. Sometime when I turn off the car, I can hear a hissing of something in the engine and it sounds like it is coming from the accumulator (black cylinder on passenger side, near firewall and hood). There is a nice hole in the soundproofing on the firewall right next to the accumulator, so I am fairly sure that it has leaked there. I'll have that checked out and fixed (when I take my car in to get the timing belt replaced VERY soon).

    So on to my questions:
    -- It seems that these two things must be linked (A/C leaking and the engine running hot when air conditioner is running). I can't seem to think of how these things are linked, except though the compressor/belt system. Any ideas? Maybe it will go away when I get the A/C leak fixed but maybe not.
    -- The new thermostat I replaced the original Mazda thermostat with was from an auto parts retailer, and was a bit different. The Mazda part has a hole in the collar with a little metal plug type thing and the replacement does not have this. Should I get a Mazda part and replace the one I replaced? What is this hole for? Seems like the plunger would keep fluid from flowing back thoguh this hole.

    And on the plug wires, I would suggest only Mazda plug wires. I first bought wires from some retail store, installed the wires, then decided to double check the plugs. When I tried to pull the wires off, several of the crimps got stuck on the plugs. Several of the rubber boots at the end of the wire near the plug came off and I had to fish them out of the plug wells. One of the wires even pulled off the crimp (ruined the set). I then got Mazda wires which are better, in that the boot is all one rubber overmold that holds the crimps and wire snugly. The other manufacture of the wires had several hard plastic parts, probably so they could have more uniform parts for different cars. Just my two cents.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Which causes the compressor to have to work harder since it has less refrigerant to work with, and of course the ECU has to compensate for this, and....

    In the following order, this is what I would do:
    • Obtain from a Mazda store the proper thermostat;
    • Have the cooling system flushed (in case there's an air bubble or two in there causing hot spots);
    • Fix the A/C leak.
    In my experience, it's very easy to get air into the cooling system, not so easy to get it out.
  • johnny01johnny01 Posts: 8
    Hello. I just got a CEL at 59,540 mi. I'm thinking it came on because it's telling the 60k mi. check is almost due. It's been two days now and nothing noticeable to report other than the CEL. What do you think windowphobe6?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    OBD-II cars (and this is one) aren't supposed to click on this light unless there's an actual code set, regardless of mileage. The most common cause of these things, actually, is a gas cap that isn't maintaining pressure.

    If nothing else is going on, the computer may decide that it's a temporary glitch and blow it off - under some conditions, if an intermittent problem doesn't recur, the standard allows for the code to be erased - but if the light stays on, I'd have it looked at when you get around to your 60k service. (At the very least, you need an oil change and a timing belt.)

    Now if it starts flashing, don't wait.
  • johnny01johnny01 Posts: 8
    - The CEL has been steady on for two days. Speaking of the timing belt, I would like to delay the change for at least 10k. I want to trade the car in for something newer next yr, and if I spend $500-700 on the 60k service I feel obligated to keep the car (and get my money's worth)for another 2 yrs.
    Next week, I will take it in to my usual Mazda dealer for a Lube/oilchg and ask them to read the codes also if the CEL is still on. thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Beyond the gas cap, one thing that often sets this critter off is an oxygen sensor on the edge of decay. The engine computer will compensate for these things to a certain extent, and you may notice little or no change in driveability, but its effect on emissions is not favorable, and some places are more anal about emissions than others. (Somehow, that doesn't sound very good.)

    And let it be stated here that I've never heard tell of a timing belt actually breaking on one of these cars until quite a bit past 60k; this may be Mazda's attempt to respond to California's attempts to suspend the laws of physics. (In the Golden State, timing belts last 105k miles; the Assembly says so.)
  • cmeyer3cmeyer3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1985 Mazda 626 lx. Recently the electronic light kept flickering on and off during driving and it seems to lose power while driving it. I took it to the local Mazda dealer who for $80 computer analysis told me the fuel pressure modulator (i think) and the intake gasket was sucking in. I then took it to a mechanic I know well who said it is registering 40 lbs of pressure which should be fine and the gasket looked ok. He did replace the plugs as they were all mismatched and checked the exhaust to make sure the converter wasnt plugged. It still loses power while driving it. He is at a loss, I suggested the fuel filter from reading some of the message boards. Could anyone shed some light???
  • 626blues626blues Posts: 2
    Hi, I am new to the forum and have been reading the posts related to transmission failures in the 626. I have not read every single post, so I hope I am not beating a dead horse here, but I bought a new 1999 Mazda 626 ES 4-cyl in October 1999. In March of this year at 27,000 miles I was returning from a ski trip with a gaggle of girl scouts in the car. I had stopped at a stop sign at the bottom of a not-very-steep hill, and when I tried to proceed, I had to floor the accellerator just to keep from going BACKWARD. The transmission had felt like it was slipping a bit for the previous week, but I had no inkling that it would get so bad so fast. Thank God I was fairly close to home, and limped back cautiously with the O/D light blinking furiously. I took the car to the dealership the next day (with absolutely NO problem, no tranny slippage, nothing) and the transmission was replaced. I felt none too happy that at such low mileage I had to have the trans. replaced, but I am such a Pollyanna I figured that was the end of it. Of course I was mistaken. Even as I type this my car is in for its SECOND transmission. I now have 30K miles on my car, so that averages out to, what, 1 transmission every 10,000 miles??

    Not being a litiginous person, I have no idea what my legal rights may be, but I still owe too much money on this car to feel that this tranny problem is something I should have to deal with. I went into this purchase with a ton of Mazda loyalty, my 1989 323 is still in my driveway with 170K miles on it and it has been nothing but reliable, although understandably it is now older and tired.

    I have little faith that this problem will ever be put right, and I basically want my money back.

    If anyone has any suggestions for me, they would be very much appreciated.
  • johnny01johnny01 Posts: 8
    Your 99 626 should be under the orginal manufacture's warr for the transmission. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it 36 months or 50k miles?
  • 626blues626blues Posts: 2
    Yes the '99 is under mfg warranty, but when they replace the transmission, although the CAR is still under the same warranty, the warranty for the TRANSMISSION changes to 1 year. It's dictated by Mazda, I checked with them when my dealer told me because it did not sound right. And yet, that's the way it is. Yet another reason that I am uncomfortable.....
  • kifil032kifil032 Posts: 1
    I'm considering buying a USED Mazda 626 EX, for a first time car. This will be my first car and just trying to get something to get around with, but at the same time looks decent for under $6000. Has anyone had any problems with this car. If so how expensive is it to fix? Any reliability issues? Appreciate any help.
  • johnny01johnny01 Posts: 8
    Take the time to read the prior 659 posts to this msg board. 1994 was the worst year to own a 626. State whether your car is a 4 or 6 cyl and auto or manual. Might as well tell your milage, also.
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