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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • Well, I'm going down the Interstate yesterday when my engine decides to die on my '93 626 ES (107k mi.). My radio and headlights still worked but my engine didn't. Luckily, I was right before an off-ramp and was able to get my car to the top of the ramp by coasting (weird and scary feeling).

    The mechanic said that my battery was basically dead due to a weak alternator. He said I needed to get that fixed but I should be able to drive on a new battery for at least a week. I got the car started with the new battery but hadn't gotten more than a quarter mile before the engine died again. I got it started but it died again about a minute later.

    Is this mechanic right or is there something worse going on here? I'm scared to death of taking the car back on the highway.
  • If it's the alternator, "weak" is putting it mildly.

    There's a distributor issue on '93s. More precisely, there's an issue with the ignition module, which is integrated with the distributor in these cars. has the gory details.

  • fromatozfromatoz Posts: 15
    my car's headlights went dead yesterday, before driving to dealer's store, may i ask what's likely the cause?

    * I found them dead at the same time
    * all other lights are working
    * is it easy to change the bulbs by myself if it's because of dead bulbs.

    thanks for any help.
  • fromatozfromatoz Posts: 15
    forget to mention my car is Mazda 626 ES 1993.

  • Then it's probably not the bulbs themselves, but the switch that controls them - or a fuse that may have blown, in which case you need to find out what caused the fuse to blow.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,091
    well, to put it bluntly, that mechanic is an idiot. I would not go back to him if I were you. A car dying while running down the road has absolutely NOTHING to do with the battery. A battery gets your car started and THAT'S IT. Once your car is running, the alternator is what supplies all the juice (and recharges your battery on top of that).

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • I agree. I was in a part of town where I knew no one and I don't have a mechanic. He did tow it back to my place on Saturday, after putting in a new alternator. I plan on having it towed to a mechanic my friend recommended. I was pretty stressed about the whole ordeal and really wasn't thinking straight. Well, now I have a new alternator which was not needed. Great.

    I think windowphobe6 probably nailed it. That's a pretty expensive fix but my car still isn't costing me a monthly car payment, yet.
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    My 1998 Mazda 626LX with 63,000 appears to have a toasted clutch (just made it into my driveway).

    For the past week when putting into gear the engine would rev way past 5,000 RPM in the past 2 days it quickly got worse to the point were it is now.

    #1. Is 63,000 miles about the time to replace the clutch anyways?

    #2. How much $$$ should is expect to part with for this.

    #3. Anyone elese with a manual transmission experice the same problems if so how at how many miles?

    Thank you for any and all help

  • A lot depends on one's driving style, but the last time I had a stick shift, I finished off a clutch about every 70,000 miles, so 63,000 doesn't seem too far out of line. Bradbury (whom I have quoted elsewhere in this thread) says 55k to 65k is typical on these cars.

    The major expense is not the clutch itself, but the five or six hours it takes to install it.
  • I took it to a REAL mechanic today and he called me around 5; my timing belt snapped. Seeing that I had it changed around 58k and I lose it at 107k, I'm pretty pissed. They're going to get back to me tomorrow to see if I did any other damage...unreal.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I wonder if you have cam and crankshaft leaks that could have weakened the belt. Repair costs on belts are expensive. Replace the above cam and crankshaft seals as well as replace the water pump. With that mileage on it, the water pump probably won't last. My Mazda dealer orders replacement water pumps regularly. Save duplicate laber.
  • mrdetailer:

    I just replaced mine at 10 years ('91 GT) and 117,000 miles. They were making noise over speed bumps and I found the rubber spring seats were cracking and squishing out of place. I bought KYB GR-2s from BAP and so far they feel like OE.

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Thanks for the response. I had pretty settled on the KYB GR-2's since I wanted a performance shock. Good to hear that someone else is happy with them.
  • flamazdaflamazda Posts: 11
    OK, bought a new 626 with a 2.0 liter unit and automatic. Seemed OK for a few hundred miles, then started to 'miss' or 'surg' frequently (independent of A/C compressor) over 45 MPH. Worse in morning until warm. Dealer saids its 'normal'--that I'm sensitive to a fuel trim condition. Passengers need Dramamine--any ideas on what/where to check (no codes or engine lights on), or do I need a 6 cylinder?
  • (I always wanted to say that.)

    This doesn't sound too normal to me. Around 45 mph, you're at the point where the torque converter is locking/unlocking, which isn't the most seamless of operations but doesn't really feel like either a surge or a miss. (The A/C makes its presence known, but, at least on my car, it's barely noticeable.) And anyway, if the fuel trim were enough out of whack to push the oxygen sensor out of range, you'd get a code of some sort. Maybe I'm just, um, insensitive, but I'm not buying this.

    The gas pedal on these things seems a bit hyperactive to me; if you're going over a teensy rise, the subsequent descent may jar your foot ever so slightly, and the transmission will duly interpret this as a request, whether you wanted it to or not. If your roads are as crummy as ours, maybe this is what's happening to you, in which case you probably should move. :)
  • flamazdaflamazda Posts: 11
    Thanks for the feedback. Glad to say our most of our roads here are new--many smooth as silk. Doesn't seem like an overdrive shift point, is worse around 50-55 MPH. Drove another one today--I really have a problem, now IF I can just get the folks downtown to fess up and try to really find the non-code part. Probably something simple--e.g., gas filter, sensor, plug wire, or something major--e.g., transmission slipping, etc.--was just wondering what (if anything) has been the most frequent item causing (or could cause) this type of problem. One other thing I have noticed, it doesn't seem as bad until it does go into the top gear (about 45,46)and the RPM's drop.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Go to a Napa Store. Buy Lubegard for Automatic Trannies. I believ that this only costs $20.00. Have the equivalent amount to AT fluid drained and put it in. Drive it for a week or 2 and see if it doesn't fix the issue.

    My Mazda mechanic has done this to Mazda transmissions for 20 years. He believes that it avoids most automatic transmission problems.

    If it still has the problem you have protected your transmission anyway. Change fluid and readd lubegard every 15,000 miles.
  • At this point, I'm more inclined to suspect a nonelectronic component; more specifically, I'm thinking miniscule vacuum leak somewhere, which is being compensated for as much as possible but evidently not completely.

    Could it be the transmission? Maybe. Even with recent upgrades, this is still not one of the sturdiest of slushboxes. And stretching out its lifespan has to be considered a Good Thing, even if it's not the immediate problem.
  • flamazdaflamazda Posts: 11
    Thanks for the inputs, now for the fun part--hope I can fix the problem, its only got 3,700 miles.
  • liuqyliuqy Posts: 2
    thanks anyone's suggestion on the Mazda front strut repair or replace, the price of the part.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    along with the strut mounts. Struts were about $250 with labor, and Strut mounts were another 300 if I remember correctly. It was done in conjunction with other repairs.
  • After reading enough messages on the failure of the 1994 and later Mazda 626 CD4E automatic transmission failures, I am despondent. My transmission is spilling fluid from the vent. Am I really faced with a complete rebuild or is the replacement of the redesigned pump plate and gasket a smaller job costing less? (cf. Message 17). Would a flush perhaps cure this problem?
  • Installing the new pump plate/gasket is indeed a smaller and less costly job, but that's not necessarily what's wrong with it. I suspect some other seal may have gone south. (This doesn't automatically mean "rebuild" either.) And no, a flush won't help.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    My 94 626 ES developed this about a month ago - if I turn on the right blinker, while on the brake pedal, it flashes way faster then usual.
    Like if I had a burned out bulb, but I don't.
    Also even without turning on the blinker, the indicator on the dash lightens up when pressing the pedal. And this is for the right one only.

    So it's an electrical issue and might be something like shortening a circuit or grounding or ... but any more concrete ideas ?
  • liuqyliuqy Posts: 2
    who know the quality and price of the tire of America Sliver? Thanks
  • We have a 1996 4-cylinder Mazda 626 (78,000 miles) with no previous problems.

    Yesterday it drove fine. Today it won't start, even with jumper cables. When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound. The only thing that works are the headlights--no radio, no interior lights, etc.

    I did leave the key in the ignition last night, and I may have left it turned partially on (to close the windows).

    Any diagnosis or thoughts? We are perplexed by not being able to jump start it at all.

    Thank you.
  • Get a plug in battery charger for a few dollars and plug it in for the night. It will let you know whether the battery is holding a charge.

    Auto Wreckers often have special booster cables that are much stronger than an ordinary car jump. If it does start with this, then you will need to use a battery charger to charge a long term charge. Alternators don't fully recharge.
  • Overnight charge didn't work. Car was towed. Garage has been spending many hours trying to find out what is wrong. Any thoughts that might help them?
  • Something is interrupting the power to that circuit only, so my first thought is to check the appropriate fuse.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,091
    There are too many things that could cause this. Window is right about the fuse. I'm thinking that a wire to the starter could have come off or gone bad. It could be the starter itself, although it usually would make some sort of noise. It also could even be the ignition switch itself. The list goes on and on.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

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