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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • i have the aforementioned vehicle and recently the atx has a problem it only has 120k highway miles on it but it now has a distinct rattling in the tranny while idling....i've been told my bands are lose and only hope is a rebuild....but i have found it's cheaper to replace here in texas, than it is to rebuild. does anyone have advice on what i should look for in a tranny. i found a place in houston that grabs the rejects of japanese inspection and sells them "low mileage used". they gave me a quote of $995. whadda ya think
  • Hello, I own a 1998lx 626 2.0l 4cyl. auto Transission. This Ford unit failed at 53K miles.
    I changed the fliud by dropping the drain plug every other oil change. Easy to do and cheap about 3.50 a change 3.5 qts.
    owned the car since 1999. Paid 13k for the car w/12k miles. Seemed to be a good buy..the car handles well and has a spacious interior and trunk. Dash looks Quality..and it was 3k cheaper than a Camry and 5k cheaper than the Accord.
    Mazda went 50/50 on the repairs still came out to $1650. Totally unacceptable. It looks like I'm married to this car. I checked the used market
    and one can be had for $7500. Not a good resale value. I wonder if the word is out on dealership trade-ins to avoid this Car. My Plan is to install Transmisson cooler and change the dog out of the fluid. What else can I do?
  • The most important thing, I think, is to make sure you get a box for the '93. A later tranny might work; '92 and before will not work. (For 1993, the transmission was switched to complete computer control; there isn't even a throttle cable.) I have no experience with, um, slight irregulars, but if the seller is willing to back the product, go for it.
  • Drain and refill is nice so far as it goes, but it doesn't go much of anywhere with the CD4E with its internal filter; this is a tranny that really needs to be power-flushed on a regular basis. (I follow a 2-year/24k schedule myself.) Adding the cooler will likely help, since the earliest units tended to run hot. Transmissions remanufactured by Mazda (which are now actually remanufactured by Delco Remy, which bought Mazda's Jacksonville tranny facility) are supposed to have the most recent incremental improvements, but you never know exactly how old the replacement unit is - and there was a running change halfway through model year 1998 - so I can appreciate a certain level of wariness.
  • I know this may sound silly, and perhaps/probably I am missing something... Does anyone know how to remove the air filter on the 99 626 v6?? I checked the owners manual and it simply says to remove the clamps.. I see only one clamp (RT Front of Air box as you face the car) and that won't help open the box by itself... What am I missing here???

    Thanks.. I have changed air filters before:)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I have a mechanic who is a Mazda specialist for 20 years. Here is what he does when he transmission overhauls are needed.

    1. He uses factory rebuilds only like you should have had.

    2. He installs a transmission cooler -- a more expensive one that can regulate temperature.

    3. He changes the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.

    4. He adds Lubegard, or another product called Wear Guard.

    He feels that this is adequate, but since you had transmission problems even changing regularly, I would recommend spending the extra and getting synthetic fluid.
  • z88z88 Posts: 5
    Hi, all

    I am approaching 60,000 mark on my 98'626 V6-ES and thinking about let the dealer do the 60K service. It costs $450. Fair deal?? Necessary?? Does anyone changed their cars timing belt? I am going to change it, it will cost me $400, ouch!!


  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Don't do it yourself. Unless you know how to change the Cam and Crankshaft seals. Mine was changed at 90,000 and at 120,000 it has to be changed again because the seals leaked and softened the timing belt. If under warranty have the dealer do it, and make sure that they are using an experienced mechanic. Otherwise find a good local mechanic.

    Clean the MAF sensor, retorque the engine and transmission mounting bolts, replace transmission fluid (if automatic, put in synthetic) and filter, replace the following fluids brake, power steering, engine coolant. I recommend Lubegard for the transmission and power steering. it can be found at Napa for about $20.00 for both.
  • My 90 626 5spd makes a ticking/sputtering sound under load when it is cold. If I let the car idle, you can't hear it. It's more of a sputter than a tick and I am positive that it is not the lifters.
    The sound goes away after the car has warmed up. My mechanic says i just have good ears
    because he can't hear anything. They even hooked it up to some diagnosic machine and all read good. The car drives well even when it does sputter and i get 32-33mpg consistently.
    Please help, this is driving me nuts.
  • Hi,

    First of all I have a 2000 Mazda 626 ESV6 with about 40,000 miles on it. It goes with out saying that I use it fairly heavily. I have a problem that has been going on on and off for several months. Every thing seems to be fine but the car won't start. As "windowphobe6" suggested earlier (thank you for that) it looks like a problem that the car some how thinks that the gear is on and it won't start. So, whenever this happens I just get down and give the car a push (while in park mode) and I invariably hear an audible click. Then the car starts fine. Is this sign of a major trouble waiting to happen? And also, my car is an auto shift and I noticed some thing concerning. After a long drive, the plate on top of the gear stick .. the one marked with the gear position (sorry for the low tech description) gets hot. I noticed this because I keep my cell plugged into the lighter plug and the cell gets hot too. Is this sign of some kind of trouble? And also, more importantly, my car makes a lot of noise/sound while accelerating from park (at traffic lights.. and I don't press to the floor) and it's definitely not as smooth as a Camry or an Accord. Is this normal for a Mazda 626? Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.

    - A concerned owner.
  • If you have to move the car slightly to get it to start, most likely the neutral-safety switch is at fault. Relatively simple fix, not likely a prelude to worse things.

    Heat far away from a duct usually suggests an exhaust pipe too close for comfort, or a heat shield gone away causing same.

    The V6 has a distinct growl, although if you want to hear some serious noise, you should hear the four-banger at takeoff. Then again, maybe you shouldn't. Toyota, and to a lesser extent Honda, go to a lot of trouble to tune out manifestations that might make you think your car is some mundane mechanical device. Mazda figures (1) you probably want to Zoom Zoom and (2) if so, why should they spend the extra bucks to hide it under a bushel?
  • Must be something in the expansion-contraction cycle. If everything else checks out, you may as well turn up the stereo. :)
  • Have a 91' 626 DX, 2.2L, Auto with 120K miles on it. So far has been extremely reliable. Had it repainted last month and put on new tires.

    The tranny died on me last week, was able to locate a used one for $350. How much of labour am I looking at ? Is it worth while ?

    New tranny is going to cost $2000.00
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Unfortunately, much as I love Mazda, the tranny's have weaknesses. The labor on the used one will be the same as the remanufactured one. It will then go sooner. You will double the labor unless it is a real low mileage one.

    You have a great engine there. Love my 1991.

    My mechanic is a Mazda specialist and he recommends a factory rebuild, installation of a good transmission cooler, and using wearguard, or Lugegard to keep it in better shape.
  • Somewhere around seven or eight hours of labor to pull one out and put another one in, generally. Your mileage may vary.
  • mrdetailer, are you in NJ by any chance ? Wouldn't the price of your recco. exceed the book value of the car ? How much would a factory rebuilt tranny come up to ?

    Even with a used one, I am going to pay more for labour than the cost of the part ! I hate it when I get into such a situation.
  • An idiot ran(at least 30 mph) into my rear at a red light on 9/12/01. Just me in the car. My air bag did not deploy. My seat back collapsed backwards. No injuries, maybe a sore neck.

    Progresive ins said the car was totaled ($5k-7 damage) so I got a check the next day. I had a 97 626LX AT-4cyl, white, nothing extra added on to the LX package. 61K miles. The car was in good condtion according to Edmunds TMV.
    Progressive cut me a check for $8.7k!? (this amount included ded which the other guy's ins paid). I was quite happy at that amount. I paid $10.8 for my 626 more than 2 1/2 yrs ago. I figure they gave me close to retail price. It's a good thing I held off on the 60k mile maintenance.
    So now I just bought a used, 99 CR-V LX RT4WD. I wanted something different. More room. I feel I am not sitting 4 inches above the road anymore. Road visabilty is quite remarkable in the CR-V
    I was a big reader of this board but only posted less than 5x.
    This is my first Honda.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Xoomxoomxoom: My 1991 is a manual that hasn't had any problems. But yes according to Edmunds car value it would exceed the value of the car. My goal with this car though is to keep it running as long as possible since it is such a blast to drive. With my wife's accident and normal wear and tear we have had to replace most steering components and get new tires. Spent $3,000 this year, $1,700 covered by insurance. But last year my maintenence cost was only $350.00. Next year should be much cheaper.

    But this car is still generally in style and now looks and drives like it was new. We should get at least another 85,000 miles. I like to keep cars to 200,000 miles. I've found over the years that if they are well maintained that it is not only less expensive, but that the cars still remain fun to drive.
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    Procedures on how to clean the mass airflow sensor of the 2.0 engine was mentioned in a message above. I am wondering if the same procedures can be followed on the 2.5 V6.
    I have a 93 ES.
  • I have gone through 2 fuel pumps on my 98 626ES V6. Car runs fine, no signs of trouble - and then suddenly, without warning, it will not start (it cranks and cranks, but won't turn over). Several dealers now have diagnosed it as a fuel pump problem (no pressure, no fuel feed), so the pump is simply replaced (currently on my third). I have to think something else is wrong. Have others run into this? Other diagnosis?

    No other problems with the car thus far.
  • It's usually in the fuse box. The fuel pressure on these cars is relieved by pulling the relay out of the box, so it's easily removable - which suggests that it can work its way loose.
  • I think the V6 uses a cone-type meter, in which case it wouldn't be quite the same procedure, though the cone itself can be cleaned and checked for free movement.
  • (This is slightly off topic, and I crossposted
    to the general topic.)

    I had my beautiful 94 Mazda 626 shipped from
    Boston to San Diego recently (great condition
    considering its age). Much to my
    dismay, when I took delivery, the driver
    pointed out several huge gashes/dents and
    scratches on the trunk lid. It was totally
    their fault, seems like some chains fell and
    hit the trunk during transit.

    The past couple of weeks I have been dealing
    with the trucking company (Appollo, based
    in KY, referred by All States). After a
    bit of a runaround, they came out and said
    they wouldnt pay for a new trunk lid, even though
    the two auto body places I went to said it would
    be better to replace the lid instead of to
    fix it. (Besides the gashes, the lid is a bit
    bent, so when closed there is a slightly larger
    gap between lid and chassis than before)

    The guy claimed that insurance companies don't
    pay to replace with new parts any car that
    is older than 2 years. I was wondering if
    that was true, or is he just trying to
    avoid paying a larger amount (860 vs 380).

    I don't think even $860 is worth a lawsuit,
    but I also don't want to get cheated out of
    fair compensation. Any advice much appreciated!

    Next time, I'm going to drive cross country!

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 21,984
    I never heard of that before. But, I think insurance varies from state to state. In NJ, for instance, I know that the person carrying the insurance has every right to insist on new factory parts and its even encouraged since anything else takes away from the value of the car.

    I would call your insurance company and speak to someone there. Explain the situation, maybe they can give you some advice on dealing with the trucking company.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, it's not my insurance company I'm dealing with, it's the trucking company's (since it was their fault). I guess I can ask the trucking company to tell me their insurance company, but I doubt they would tell me. They wouldnt even give me a regular street address to send photographs/etc. (they
    use a po box)

    On a slightly different note, can anyone recommend a good auto body shop in San Diego?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 21,984
    I realize that its not your insurance company that your dealing with. What I meant is that you should contact your insurance company for advice, that's all. They might be able to tell you what you should do in this case, since they are, after all, an insurance company. And, really, it might be in their best interest to help you since it is a car that they are covering. If the car doesn't get repaired or repaired correctly, it could ultimately fall in their lap as a claim when you want to get it fixed.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • I have a '98 626 and would like to know if anyone has the correct method for flushing out the antifreeze. Would rather save the $40.00 for other things. I know about the drain plug below, but was wondering if there was anything else I needed to open up to completely drain and flush the system.

  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a 93 626 w/ 183,000 in pretty good shape. The car is running great but in the fifth gear, when I accelerate, there is a knocking sound other than the usual jamboree of sounds. It only happens in the fifth gear when I acclerate.

    It is not that loud but it is definitely there. Ijust wanted to know if I should ignore this and keep on driving.

    Thanks for all the help.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    This likely means start of failure in that gear. I'd immediately replace with Synthetic and put in Lubegard Gear Oil Suppliment.(Napa Auto Parts) It has made our transmission run much smoother.
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