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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,103
    my '99 V6 had a bit of noise as well. I believe this was a topic of discussion quite some time ago here. Don't remember if there was any resolution. But, anyway, I just ignored mine. My Toyota had WAY worse valve tapping. Of course, I don't know exactly how loud yours is, so I can't tell you if you should do anything. I doubt I would put $1000 into it, though, just to eliminate a bit of noise.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    When I was passing by and browsing I realized this question. As an x-mazda 626 owner, all I can say this is pretty much normal for Mazdas. At that time I was recommended engine flush + genuine mazda oil filter. After market filters are not capable of keeping oil pressure. Advises helped but did no resolve the problem. Good luck.
  • 34423442 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the come back. Yes, I agree $1000.oo is a little much just to eliminate lifter noise. My main concern was what the lasting effect would be eventially on the engine.Thanks again
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,103
    put it this way, even if you let it go and it DOES become a problem. It will still be a rebuilt head and you'd still be looking at a grand to fix it (not counting inflation :). So I say just live with it.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    As mentioned before, the Mazda oil filter does help a lot.
    I won't worry too much about the noise. Had 138k miles on my 93 ES and it is still running strong, despite the noise when engine is cold.
  • I just purchased a 2001 626 LX I4 auto,Does Bosch oil filters work well or should I use Mazda filters, also can anyone recommend an after market tranny filter.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I've got a 99 626 w/ 4cyl engine. Approx 54k miles. Just had the transmission serviced. They drained what came out and I had them add 10oz. bottle of lubegaurd. For the first time I notice hesitation on takeoff. Could this be the beginning of the dreaded tanny problems with the 4cyl? When car is is in park there is no hesistation at all when I rev the engine. Once the car is moving there is no problems. SHifts are all smooth as ever.
  • My Dad hadn't serviced his tranny for about 60,000 miles. After it was first serviced, it did the same thing for about 6 weeks, including a long trip. I checked a couple of months later, and it had settled down. When I drove it on a longer trip about 6 months after the repair, it performed flawlessly.
  • Not for the CD4E/LA4A-EL; the filter is internal (and I mean way internal) and not accessible without major disassembly.
  • Has anybody used or recommends using a magnefine in line filter.
  • I recently cleaned the throttle body on my '97 Mazda 626 w/ 2.5 V-6....afterward, the check engine light would not go out. I drove it for about a week, then took it to the dealer. They said the PCM module (computer) was bad, and they'd replace it under warranty. (I have 62500 miles on this car, so I'm guessing this is the emission's warranty.) Only problem was, they had to order the part.

    My dilema is, while waiting for the part, the light went out! Any ideas what's going on? My gut is to let them give me a new computer, but I'm not sure....

    Any thoughts?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If they will do it under warranty then let them. They did the check, they are the experts.

    Check Engine lights are intermitent quite often anyway.

    Wouldn't be suprized if it's those *&^%(*& Oxygen sensors.

    They're listed as a regular maintenence item at 60,000. And they're over 200 apeice
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,103
    well, not sure about the Mazda in this case, but I do know that the check engine light on my Volvo is known to come on if there is any temporary change in the fuel system vacuum (i.e. loose fuel cap) and it will not go off for 7-10 days even after the cap is tightened again.

    I had originally taken it to the dealer for this problem and this is what I was told. So, next time I will ignore it for 10 days. ;)

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • I have installed Magnefine filters in all 3 of our family vehicles. They have been tested and approved by Ford, have a Ford part number and are available from Ford dealers, ( for a much higher price than from Magnefine) They were proven to extend pan filter cleaning intervals to 100,000 miles as long as the Magnefine was replaced every 2 years or 30,000 miles. They can also be used on your power steering system. Cheap insurance. Available at
  • Get your oxygen sensors from Exact fit and great prices.
  • That is an amazing site.

    I could get Oxygen Sensors up to 1997 for the 626. A considerable savings. We just had to buy the 1997 ones 8 months ago at $250.00 apeice.

    It's so cheap I'm going to have them replace the old one on my 1991 at my 120,000 mile checkup.
  • I have a '96 626 with nearly 75K. Three weeks ago it started to take a long time to start when it hadn't run lately. It would take 3 or more turns of the key, cranking for several seconds, before it would finally go. Once it had started, it would start within a couple turns. I have an extended warranty that is about to run out. I took it to the local garage, they checked the fuel pressure overnight, couldn't find anything and cleaned the throttle body and injectors. A few days later, it was back to its old tricks. I took it to a Mazda dealer, and they tried it every morning for a few days, and couldn't get to hiccup. Finally, they were checking it out and fortunately, it wouldn't start right away and they determined it needed a fuel pump. We're waiting for the part now. Has anyone else experienced an intermittant fuel pump?
  • Just went over 15,000 miles--went ahead and had the transmission fluid service. Didn't think it would need it, but in reading this board, decided to. No additives, just Mazda service. BIG DIFFERENCE in smoothness of upshifts, etc. Definitely worth it. Probably most important to do the initial one soon, don't know how long the unit sat on the dealer's lot, and probably some inital break in stuff off the internals. Maintenance schedule missing this item in manual. Will watch color and smell of fluid, probably will do again in 20-25K.
  • The Check Engine Light has come on several times on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX starting at about 40,000 miles it will stay on between ~500-3000 miles (about 1 to 5 weeks) and go out only to relite 8,000 to 12,000 miles later. The car now has 74,800 and has relite.

    I have experienced no problems with fuel economy, pick-up etc.

    Is the light timed to go on and off at regular mileage intervals?

    I find the light worthless and a damm annoyance.


  • Don't extend transmission service if it's an automatic. My Mazda mechanic who won many national awards in Mazda competitions said change it religiously every 15,000 Miles. They also put in anti-wear additive like Wearguard or Lubegard. He has over 20 years experience on Mazda engines almost exclusively.
  • Oxygen sensor may need replacing. The *&^%$#@!#$#$ thing is unfortunately probably a dealer item. The maintenance manual says that they need to be changed every 50,000 miles. Also, if it has an MAF sensor then it could likely need to be cleaned. Did you replace the spark plugs and do a tuneup at 60,000 as recommended?
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    My '99 626 (4cyl) 55k miles which has been perfect has started to miss when cruising @ 50 mph and then accelerating. Have just started noticing some hesitation for the first time. Plugs were changed at 30k and will be changed again @ 60k. Its been very cold (10 degrees) and I wonder if it could be water in the fuel making the engine miss. Any ideas?
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    check the fuel filter, and try some dry gas.

    My 98 626 has 73k with no real problems (knock on wood)

    Good luck
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    My understanding is that the Mazda 626 (99 4cyl) fuel filter is in the tank and that you don't change it. Anybody know for sure?
  • Unless they moved it just for '99, it's under the hood. In fact, in the 2.0-liter, it's usually under the cruise-control actuator, a smidgen northeast of the air cleaner. Not especially easy to get to.

    Make sure you kill the fuel pressure (yank the relay out of the box while the engine is running) before you mess with this thing.
  • I have an 1988 626 5-Speed. It has given me no problems for the past 5 yr s. Then the other day we warmed it up for about 15 minutes, shut it off and it wouldn't start. When you turned it over it just went click, click, click and then nothing. Battery is 2 months old, went and got a new one, no start. Hammered at the starter and it started for 1 minute, then nothing. Replaced starter today. Now I have only top gears, 1/3/5. You can hold it in the lower gears, but if you let go it grinds. Thought maybe my clutch had gone but I still have smooth shifting in the top gears...Checked the linkage on the hoist and it looks fine??? Any Ideas? Of course, dealers say transmission, and of course, I am skeptical. Would there by any warning that your transmission was failing? Everything else, knock on wood, is excellent. Thanks in advance for any input!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I've got a chance to buy a 2000 EX V6/automatic with 16k miles. What are the problems (if any) with the V6 powertrain in the 626? I'm assuming that they are a little more reliable than the 4 cyl models. Any feedback would be appreciated. BTW, the car I'm looking at has abs/traction control/Bose system w/ cd changer for $14k. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,103
    jonbgood. that sounds like a good deal to me. Nice car. Real nice car.

    legacy - well, that sounds strange to me. Just based on the grinding/holding in gears/missing low gears I would also say its the tranny. BUT, it is odd that you had the starter problem at the same time. Its either a bad coincidence or the 2 problems are related (which is possible). Just bad luck, I think.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Hi! I've got a 95 626 LX-V6 w/the 5 spd manual. I've got 119K on it with no major money put into it except for the timing belt when I bought it @63K and having CV boots replaced. It's now almost due for another and I have it in the shop as we speak for a variety of ailments: Engine light (been on for 3 years), oily deposits on tailpipe and bumper, blue smoke from tailpipe when downshifting, oil leaks on top of engine (valve cover gaskets?), and a clunking noise coming from the wheelwells whenever the wheel is turned over almost all the way in either direction. I'm waiting for a call with a diagnosis and estimate. I've done all of the basic maintenance since I got the car. Given what seems to be a large number of posts knocking the long term reliability of the 626, should I start looking for a new ride, or is do these problems sound like regular wear and tear? Just looking for a little feedback.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    The V6 is more prone to oil seal leaks than the V4. Even though it has low miles I would immediately drain out the oil and put in a hydrocracked oil like Castrol Syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, or Quaker State Higher Mileage Engine Oil. A statement like high quality base stocks appears on the bottle. I spend my spare time over Christmas holidays looking at these oils spec sheets, and doing extensive research. I believe that it is very close to synthetics for cold weather starts, antisludging capabilities, reduced consumption of oil, and are almost equal to synthetics in everything but extended drain intervals. Hydrocracked oils are impressive. Synthetics don't baby seals like the hydrocracked oils and will cause leaks in seals a little quicker. than conventional oil. You get most of the benefits for about half of the price of a synthetic.

    Change out Power Steering and brake fluids every 30,000 miles.

    Immediately change out the transmission Fluid and add Lubegard, repeat every 15,000 miles. Very stable with this extra maintenance. Not following these procedures WILL cause transmission problems.

    Follow the Severe maintenance schedule, according to miles, but never exceeding the TIME listed on the normal maintenance schedule.

    I change timing belt every 60,000 miles even though California recommends 105K on the same belt. Not worth possible wrecking an engine if it breaks at high speed.

    Repack CV boots when you get to about 75,000. Don't wait for cracking.

    Disregard the later post with problems. It's clear to me that it was not maintained properly. My V4 is a 1991 and has 120K miles also. It is such a joy to drive that we hope to keep it to at least 250,000 miles. It looks like it will do so with proper care.
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