Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

rearwheeldrive

Squeal may be the plastic rubbing on the steering wheel not a normal maintenance thing but find some lithium spray grease in the the same section of the store and spray it on the area where the steering wheel meets the column

rearwheeldrive

Price for timing belt change.

Sometimes I see dealers run specials for this service. Id walk in, not drive in and ask about any service special. Of course this dealer has already gave you a price. Im guessing a 4 clyinder is about $200.00 labor plus $55.00 for the part.That's 3 hours tops at $65-$75/hr. A master mechanic specializing on this car will have it done in 30mins.

I do my own for the price of a belt from the local parts store which is about $30.00.

rearwheeldrive

To check your evap system it starts in the area behind the gas tank beneath the trunk. A bunch of hoses are there.

I doubt if this area is bad, but another area possibly with a tube off is the VSV next to the MAF flow sensor in the duct from the air filter. The VSV(vacuum switching valve) could have a loose tube, hose. It is to the right of the MAF, and related to the EVAP canister in the trunk area.

This is for a 2AZ-FE engine (4 cylinder).the fuse for EFI main is forward right corner of fuse block

andrelaplume

thanks!---Just spray it up into the column...?

ibm650

Just had mechanic replace bank 1 sensor 1 (one by firewall), which was my previous 171 code, about 5 miles later , check engine light on , codes are 171 and 1135. Suggestions?

wwest

When you replace the battery all of the "learned" parameters concerning the optimal operation of the engine and transaxle will be lost and replaced by the original factory default parameters. Engineering "best guess" parameters that only apply to a completely new car as it rolls off the factory floor.

Within ~500 miles your engine/transaxle control ECU will have (re)learned, corrected, the parameters in order to again have optimal operation of a well broken in, well worn, '04 with XXX miles accrued.

rearwheeldrive

Column squeak

I'd spray anywhere the parts that turn, touch parts that don't turn.l It might be hard to see anything under the dash. The rubbing could be at the steering wheel where it meets the turn signal switches and controls. Go very lightly. Then spray your seat tracks, and window tracks to help them move easier.

rearwheeldrive

These codes are for lean mixture.

Remove code and try to see if it resets again. Remove fuse in engine compartment for ten seconds. Its marked EFI. It should be in the forward right corner of the fuse box. Have key in off position.

susan08

92 camry LE automatic 187,000 miles
While driving all 4 doors unlocked. Pressed the door lock button and they went back to unlock position.
Doors will not remain in the lock position.
Appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Susan

Kirstie_H

A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2001-2006 Toyota Camry who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to jwahl@edmunds.com no later than Friday, November 21, 2008 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.

Thanks for your consideration,

Jonathan Wahl
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.

sparkland

I took my 1997 Camry in for a discount oil change for $19.95. The dealership does a complete inspection--wonder why?

While there, they said I needed a coolant change as mine was only good to 0 degrees farenheit. The price was $149.

They also said I had a leak in my power steering pump and high pressure hose.

Refused all work.

Came home and checked my oil level--it was nearly 1 quart high on the dipstick. Bad enough, but I also checked my coolant. The guage said it was good to -45 degrees below zero.

Needless to say, I think they are trying to increase sales in the service department.

Please, be careful with anyone working on your car in this weak economy.

Thanks, Brad

rogerthat_101

Not sure what this could be but once I start the car it runs for a sec and then stops. However Once i start the car and hold down the accelerator for about 15 secs, and then let it go, it's fine..

Happens once in a while. Any suggestions? The car has been well maintained. I've taken in to the dealer and told them of this issue. However they seem to find nothing wrong?

rearwheeldrive

No run after start.

Sounds like its in the cold start system. Is it only when first starting and sometimes when its not completely warmed up?.

I have a 93 V6 engine . When I disconnect the coolant sensor it wont start, or is more difficult.usually taking 5 seconds or more to start, not quite the same as your problem, but close. It goes to the cold start injector which makes the car start easier when cold. When I hook it back up it always fast idles for a couple minutes before returning to normal idle even when warmed up but not as long. I guessing that sensor is not working right on yours and doing something different with the fuel signal to all the injectors.

ryan99

Hi there, I had this same problem with my 99 4 cyl and it was the IDLE CONTROL VALVE. If you search this in edmunds you will find several others had the same problem. The tricky thing is that it will "test" fine electrically by the mechanic because the real problem is that it binds up with carbon. It is about a 240 dollar part and you must know if your car was built in the USA or canada and whether it has california emissions. I let a couple mechanics tell me it was several different things from 02 sensors to throttle control valves and spent about $1000 until I went on a hunch and replaced the ICV. It won't get better on its own.

suydam

My daughter's '99 Camry (4 cyl) has started making a whirring noise when she starts the engine. Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it gets a little louder. She took it to a dealer who said she might be looking at rod failure down the road, but it isn't broken yet. What kind of repair would that be? The car has nearly 140,000 miles on it.

rearwheeldrive

Whirling noise

I start a simple check by loosening the belt to the alternator or the easiest belt on the car to get to. Then start the car for a few seconds to see if it goes away . The problem is in the belt driven part, if it goes away. Sometimes a pulley going bad, or alternator will make that noise. Not a rod, not at that milegae unless you left oil out of the engine for any lenth of time. Hes crazzzzy!.

lisa323

I recently bought a 2002 Camry that has started with the blue smoke at start-up problem. Took to a shop and was told it would cost $2000 + to replace the valve stem seals. I called the dealer and they said they wouldn't waste the money to fix it. I have been reading about the sludge issues the older toyotas had and am wondering if not fixing the problem is going to cause a bigger problem down the road. Anyone have any advice?
thanks.

rearwheeldrive

Blue smoke at start.

I had the same problem. My oil consumption was a quart a month. I put in an additive called 'No Smoke', and it worked. My car passed smog, and my oil consumption dropped. The bottle is about $4.00 dollars.

210delray

I had the same problem with my former '97 Camry 4-cylinder, which was purchased new. The valve stem seals were replaced under the powertrain warranty at 57K miles, but I got the blue smoke on startup again at 102K miles. I didn't bother to get it fixed the 2nd time, but sold the car at 111K with a disclosure. My car didn't consume any noticeable amount of oil either time.

If the problem is valve stem seals, you don't necessarily have sludge (my car did not). But $2000 seems excessively high. You might want to get a quote from an independent shop that is recommended by friends, relatives, or co-workers. I'd regard the additive as a "band-aid" that won't solve the problem. On the other hand, I don't think blue smoke on startup needs attention right away -- only if your oil consumption increases dramatically or the car fails emission tests (if required in your area).

Also, you didn't mention whether you have a 4-cylinder or a V6. The 4 was new for 2002 and doesn't have sludge problems as far as I know. The V6 was carryover and continued to have sludge problems that year.

rearwheeldrive

Smoke at start up and some blue smoke at higher rpms.

I thought it was my stems too and it still might be part of the problem. At higher rpm though, I get oil burn this would point to the pistons and rings. I'm betting its sludge on the rings. I watched the the tail pipe at a constant 2400 RPM's for two minutes during the smog check and it blowing blue smoke. I never notice it when driving. Then I read this topic on the engine forum and discovered these engines have this problem. Now I know. I never thought Toyota's would have this problem. My compression in engine is excellent.

I thinking of taking the engine out next year and cleaning the piston ring grooves, and installing new bearings and valve stem seals while I'm at it. Right now the bottle of No Smoke is getting it past smog.

1993 V6 3MZ engine 225k miles.

Auto_Repair

Your motor is burned out. The electrical switch is different for the lock and the window. So you will have to replace the motor in the door for your window. Check out this placeauto repair it will help you find a place to fix it if you dont want to do it yourself.

shadetree18

We will be replacing the coil as soon as we get it off the distributor. The car is my bro-in-laws and he says when he went to turn it off, he smelled something burning and the car would never start since. It pumps fuel, but I get no spark at the plug. We are replacing the basics: cap/rotor/coil. If that fails to produce a spart, we will be looking at the ignitor module.

It appears the best way to get to the underside of the coil to remove the securing screws is to losen the distributor, which then means we've got to set the timing after we install the coil.

Any advice on how to better replace the coil would be welcomed. Any advice or links to perform timing on the car would, as well, be welcomed.

My preference is to search edmunds, then the internet for a solution rather than posing a question that's already been satisfied, directly or indirectly. Needless to say, I have failed over the last several days to find a proper answer/advice.

Thank you!

rearwheeldrive

The timing would have been easier to set if you marked the Distributor where it mounts on the engine. I get a chisel place it where the two surfaces meet and hit it with a hammer. This gives you an exact match of the marks when reassembling.

Now you will have to set the timing the old fashioned way. First, get the engine at TDC This can be found by putting the mark on the crankshaft pulley at the TDC mark, to the marks for TDC and advance timing on the cover that is attached under this pulley.

Next when you slide the distributor on the rotor should be close to the No. 1 position according to the wire on the cap going to spark plug. You still have all the wires on the cap? On the V6 engine, No1 should be at the 11 o'clock position. Keep the cap off but use the rotor to find align to the no 1 position. If you look inside the engine, the shaft will go into another shaft, these shafts have slight offset on them both. This is so you can only get them together one way.If it doesn't align up, rotate the engine one more turn, 360 degrees around so they align.

What this does is set it at TDC again. This is because the engine always turns over two times while the distributor only turns over once.So you have two position at TDC on the engine. One is correct the other is one complete turn in the wrong direction. Trying to figure out which one is correct before installing the distributor is a guess. But again Toyota wont let you put the distributor in in this incorrect position.

When you slid the distributor on, the rotor should be at the No1 position when it mates back on to the engine.

Another way to find TDC is remove the no 1 spark plug and put a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. Use a socket attached to your ratchet that fits the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn it over until the straw stops moving up and just before it starts back down. This is TDC.

All these procedure are to get it close to TDC, because on Toyota you can get away with being close and not exact on the timing marks. That because the parts only fit one way, which wont allow you to be off a tooth or degree like other motors. Even the plug wires only go on one way to the correct cylinders.

rearwheeldrive

Continue my last response.

Once the distributor is in you can fine tune the timing. I remove the rotor so I can see the shaft going through the distributor. Near the bottom by the coils or module you replaced is six poles on this shaft. Align the one so it is passing over the module mark. This sends the signal to the distributor to fire the plug. This is as close to TDC you can get. Then turn the shaft slightly ahead so it is past this point . Now your timing is slightly advanced. Ideal timing is 6 degrees advanced.

Another way is to set the timing marks is to set the crankshaft pulley to 6 degrees BTDC and then center the pole on the distributor to the module pick up point.WARNING: Always rotate engine in the direction of rotation not backwards . This will avoid the timing chain coming off.

15651irene

I'm sure u have a worn motor brushes.

15651irene

Hi
I got 93 Camry 4cyl. run fine but 1 day it just die, I check timingbelt,it still good. only ignition coil and igniter that i cannot check. Anyone have any idea or been thru this similar situation please let me know, thanks

shadetree18

Thank you very much. We did as you suggested:marking with a chisel (and nail polish for good measure.) We will replace the unit today and update the thread with the results.

I'm really thrilled with the advice on TDC and what not.

The four cylinder does denote each plug on the distributor cap. But I never remove plug wires before marking them anyhow. Excellent advice all around!

shadetree18

All worked well after the coil replacement. After about 10 mins of warming the car up (in Md., the air is quite chilly), the engine stopped and will no longer start. It follows, I'm thinking, that the ignitor module is defective causing the coils to fry. Will be hunting for where that puppy is. According to one manual I was reading, they (the IM) are all external (to the distributor) with one model being the exception.

rearwheeldrive

I read your fix on coil replacement.

The module is usually on the fender under the coil. I was confused when you replaced something inside the distributor. Could be wrong though.

Another test would be to turn the key on to the run position, but dont start it. In 10 or 20 minutes try and start it. This will eliminate the fuel system(electrical too) as being bad. Since your car is shutting off after the car runs for 10 minutes it might be fuel related. In this test the fuel pump would not be running if the engines off, but the ignition module will be getting hot, and not work after 10 minutes.

The module can go bad if the ignition is left on for 30 minutes or more.

cthomas86

So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45 minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the engine stopped firing in mid drive.

Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and the terminals.

I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also, there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin, and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

kiawah

Sounds like a basic electrical problem. Check your battery terminal connections, and the voltage of the battery. Should be about 13+ volts, like 13.5-14.0 volts. If you don't have the correct voltage, then have an autoparts chain run a load test on your battery and alternato (usually a free test), to check that the alternator is putting out the current and voltaget needed to charge the battery, and the battery is holding the charge.

If both of those are okay, then other end of the ground cable(non-battery end), to make sure there isn't any corrosion there. You can also check the resistance of that cable to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage.

Then check the positive cable connection at the starter, to make sure there isn't any corrosion there either and it is a good tight connection. Caution to disconnect the battery while you are doing that, so that you (or your wrench) don't become the short to frame ground.

Repetitive clicking can be a relay, which doesn't have enough voltage to stay latched.

cthomas86

So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.

kiawah

does the security system turn the ignition off?

cthomas86

It has a starter disable relay for when it is armed.

Actually, I forgot to check the internal resistance of the pickup coil as well. Turns out that the pickup coil is off its mark as well. Maximum internal resistance from G+ to G- terminals should be 275ohms, but mine is around 305ohms, so it looks like I may need a new distributor instead.

kiawah

I'm confused over your description of 'not starting'.

Are you saying that the starter does not spin up and crank over the engine? or, are you saying that the starter spins, engages the engine, turns the engine, but the engine doesn't fire up and run?

If your security system has a relay which stops the starter from getting it's power, then it won't spin and the engine won't crank.

Which no-start symptom do you have?

cthomas86

The starter would not spin. That problem is gone because I just disarmed the security system and everything was cool.

Having determined that the pickup coil was out of spec, I replaced the distributor, re-timed the engine, and drove the car yesterday for about 120 miles. Everything was great, except I noticed that it seems to lack power. Could that be an issue with the timing? Maybe I timed it incorrectly, not sure.

I was driving it this morning down the Interstate, and the Check Engine light came on. The car did not stop driving, but something is definitely amiss, so I need to find a table of engine codes and which OBD pins I need to connect to be able to read them.

kiawah

Yes, I would suspect the timing is off. That could account for both the loss of power, and the check engine light on (due to fuel not being completely burned).

You are probably also getting poor gas mileage.

rearwheeldrive

I have a code manual, and if the timing is off, I would move the distributor slightly in the opposite direction of rotation( advancing timing).

If you do this while running, you can hear the engine rev up and down. Always mark the distributor at the pad where it mounts on the engine for a good reference point. Then move off this reference in 1/16 inch increments.

Checking codes for the 5S- engine, the manual shows the Data Link Connector at the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment next to the left fender. Opening the cover lid, you should see terminals in groups left and right. The group on the left is the diagnostic terminals. The upper right corner terminal and the one under neath it, is the diagnostic terminals. Also the terminal to the left of the one underneath.

Short the terminal to the left to the terminal in the upper corner. Have the key on, but engine NOT running. Remove the jumper AFTER turning key off.

The codes flash in .5 second flashes. If 2 is flashed, it takes 1 second. Then you will get a pause of 1.5 seconds and if their is a second digit it will flash. If its is 5, the light will flash 5x in 2.5 seconds. 25 is lean mixture. 3 is ignition signal.

Codes start at 1 and go to 85 on your model. After both digits flash you get a 2.5 second pause and another code may flash if it is stored. This code retrieval repeats continuously until all codes have flashed. Then after 4.5 second pause it starts all over with the 1st code again.

TLeesaM

My 02 Camry has 59,300 miles. In past 6 wks, the heat only comes out of the top (dash) vents. No Heat from the bottom, regardless of the settings on the dial. Dealer sez the heater box assembly needs to be replaced which means the dash wud have to be removed. Estimate for parts and labor $2997!!! LOL. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions (other than live with it).

kiawah

For $3K, I'd be getting a 2nd or 3rd opinion, and one of them would not be a dealership. Find a reputable independent service shop that handles Toyota's.

I don't have my service manuals available, but I would hope that they could just fix whatever the problem part is, as opposed to replacing the whole heater box assembly. Heck, you just might have a bad selector switch.

rearwheeldrive

Crazy $2,497.00 for heater box replacement? .

There nothing wrong with the heater box. Its just a box. The heater switch is not sending a signal to the door that direct heat out of the box.

Take your radio out and you can follow the cable to the heater box from the heater switch and the temp switch. Some cars you can see it from under the glove box. Remove the glove box too. Its just a couple screws. If you pinch the glove box sides to the center it drops down out of your way.

Look on the box for any levers that move that is where the problem is.You can move them and see how it works.

pawleep

beleive it or not

the main issue was a pinced wire routed near drvr side trunk hinge
was pinching and shorting to ground ( chassis)
unbeleivable (forgot to let you know
have a few more questions about older toyota
92- 93
does anyone know what need to be changed to put a 2.2 engine from a camry in a celica that came with a 1.8. does wiring harness need to be changed or just the computer?
paul

kiawah

That would do it. As indicated, that circuit also feeds the tail lights, which I'm betting is the wiring that shorted out on you in the trunk.

Glad you found it.

dfiveturtles

My check engine light went on I Just change my air intake valve. My car wont start up right away it sputteres and dies a few time then will stay on what is that

kiawah

Did you have this problem before you changed the air intake valve....or is this problem caused by you replacing the air intake valve?

dfiveturtles

Yes. And the check engine light is still on after it starts up it seems fine. Just the first 3 times it dies.

kiawah

I'm confused. You answered an"or" question, with a "yes", which you can't do. I'm trying to determine if the problem is related or caused by the new part you put in.

1.) Did you have this problem, you put this part in to try and resolve, and now nothing is different.............(therefore, the problem is NOT related to that part).

OR

2.) You replaced that part (for some reason), and now you have this new problem which you didn't have before...............(therefore, the problem IS related to that part). If so, have you taken this new part out, and put the old part back in, to see if the symptoms change?

dfiveturtles

I didnt have this problem before my check engine light went on my light and the starting priblem happen at the sametime after that i was tring to see what was worng when i noted that the air intake valve was broken. I replaced the part thinking that was the problem.

kiawah

Okay got it. You are situation #1. You had a problem, you put in a part which didn't necessarily fix the problem, and still have the original problem.

Take your vehicle to get the error codes in the computer read, you're pretty much just shooting in the dark without having the computer give you the diagnostic trouble codes. You can then look up those error codes on the internet and they will tell you the error symptoms that the computer is receiving, which will point you to things that are the possible source of the problems. You have an older vehicle with the older style Diagnostic Trouble codes, so you will need to find a shop that can read those for you. I don't know if the autoparts chains (e.g. PepBoys, Autozone) can do that for you, you should call and ask first. Certainly the dealership or a competent repair facility would be able to do that.

kellan4459

What would be a reasonable price to replace a 99 Camry engine with a used engine and a new water pump, timing belt, plug wires, etc? Mine locked up at 205k miles and I'm trying to determine what price I should be expecting so as to not get jipped. I am in Georgia. What would be the price difference to expect for a rebuilt engine vs. just a used engine?

Thanks