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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • sbaker75sbaker75 Posts: 3
    4 cycl 2.2-- motor cranks/new battery---fuel pumps works/new pump/chked relays good/ has fuel thru the filter/ new filter--- motor will run on starter fluid/has fire---checked ohms on injectors/good but could not find what the voltage should be to them. it just seems that there is no fuel to the injectors or they are not opening. looking for ideas. thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You indicate the fuel pump works, did you verify that it works in the vehicle and there is fuel pumping out as input to the injectors? The fuel pump power, is controlled by the Engine computer, thru a relay called the circuit control. That relay sits behind the glove box. If that relay is bad, or the ECM is bad and isn't turning it on, you won't have power to the fuel pump.

    The injectors power come from the 30A AM2 fuse, then thru the Ign switch to the injectors, and then from the injectors grounded and controled thru the ECM. Since your engine will run on starter fluid, I would assume that all of this power is working okay.

    If you do determine that the computer isn't turning on the fuel pump circuit relay, then I guess the next logical approach would be to try and determine whether some input to the computer is bad which is telling it to keep the pump off....or whether the computer itself is bad.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    what is the purpose of alternator in the car?
    I am asking this because my 1995 Toyota Camry stopped at the traffic light- after I had stopped at the red traffic light. And some one told me it could be the alternator. what do you think.
    I was driving the car and when I had stopped at the red light the camry just stopped and would not start.
    Now one guy is telling me it could be the alternator.
    I have not yet taken the car to repair shop or dealer as it is stormy weather here.
    That is why I am asking this. Thank you.
    I don't want to get ripped off by dealer or car repairmen so I am trying to find out this as much as I can.
    thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The alternator charges the battery back up. It converts the mechanical energy of its' pulley being turned, to electrical power which it puts into the battery.

    So your headlights, radio, starter, fans, electric windows, all use power from the battery. The alternator puts the power back into the battery to keep it charged.

    And to answer your question, YES, this 'could' be your problem. But as previously said, so could hundreds of other things be your problem. Just take your vehicle to a reputable shop, you're worrying about this way too much. They'll have one of the technicians look over your vehicle to figure out what appears to be working and what appears to not be working, and zero in on the problem area. It's not hard to do with someone who is knowledgeable.
  • sbaker75sbaker75 Posts: 3
    yes i have verifed that the pump works in the car.. i get fuel thru the filter to the rail.... so if i can run on starter fluid does this mean the injectors are working? if so it sounds to me like i have a blocked fuel rail. and i wonder how something got in there.... mmmm. ok thank you very much and i will get back with what i find..
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail?

    "so if I can run on starter fluid does this mean the injectors are working?" - No, that means your injectors don't appear to be working and delivering fuel. Could be don't have enough pressure on the rail, the computer isn't telling them to fire, or some number of them are defective.

    If you are able to run on starter fluid, then the compression and spark appear okay and your problem is in fuel delivery.
  • Camry wont start

    Did you do the Battery test? The alternator keeps the battery charged if the battery is charged the Alternator works.

    I can't believe people tell you it might be this or might be that. If you desribe the problem correctly, then they should be asking you more question narrowing down the problem, not the other way around.

    How can you find out what is wrong if you can't answer the troubleshooters question. You shouldn't be asking what this does or that. They should know what it does and be sure it is this or that not it might be.

    I can tell you what is going on if you do the test I asked you to do. This is basic troubleshooting 101.

    I saw a 95 Camry at the junkyard today the fuses are right next to the battery did you see them?
  • the injectors have a fuse too

    Check the inj fuse or put a simple test light on one of the connectors to the injectors and watch it light up when you turn it over.It should be in the engine compartment fuse box.

    You can hear them clicking when you crank it over if you place a hose or long srewdriver on the injector and other end is in your ear.

    You also have a cold start injector, and need the air duct connected, and cold temp sensor working properly to get a cold engine started easier.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    The poster (he/she) is not technically proficient, and any even basic problem isolation techniques are difficult to do, particularly hard if there is no underlying understanding of why things work the way they do. He/she could spend hours and thousands of dollars chasing 'it could be this', or 'it could be that'. The absolute best direction in my opinion, is to get the vehicle to one of many competent shops who very quickly can isolate the problem down just by observing the vehicle with some very basic testing.

    And by the way, there are a number of fuse boxes in that vehicle, and the main one is by the drivers left knee, behind the ash tray.
  • sbaker75sbaker75 Posts: 3
    did not have a pressure gauge... found a clog in th fuel hose between the filter and rail, removed and repair now runs great. it appears to have been some knd of wax buld up in the hose. look like ill need to do a system flush. thanks for all yor help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
  • Kiawah

    I can't help them your right, they're all over the place. I think the battery is dead.

    I leaning to the fuses at the battery, the 80, 60, 40, amp fuses are there. These could be bad if she has no power at all to the ignition switch.

    This car could have been drivin without oil and the engine froze up for all we know!! I can't believe it only has 79K not 279K miles. No history to go on, and 20 years old. I have a 93 V6 Camry sitting in my drive way.

    I used to work on Toyota's in the late 90's and did service on these all the time. We never had to do troubleshooting because it was always the same things breaking over and over.Plug wires going bad, radiators fans failing, motor mounts, and some electric window cranks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As you know, a solid failure is much easier to find than something that is intermittent. Since that vehicle won't run, it shouldn't take too long at all for a mechanic to zero right in on the area that is keeping it from running.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    It is 95 camry - 4 cylinder automatic car with 73000 miles on it.
    I don't know how to describe it better. True I don't even have basic understanding of car mechanics.

    Again first the background:

    I had service done on the 1995 Toyota Camry 2 years ago - cooolant flush, break fluid change, body throttle, spark plugs etc. Immediately as I drove the car after the service the steering froze up and the car stopped on the side road!!! As I waited after a couple of minutes it drove fine!!!! I immediately drove back to the mechanic who worked on the car. He told me it could be the fumes trapped where engine is!!! He said I would be okay. I did not know too well so I said okay.
    After this the car ran okay for a little while. But then one weird thing happened.
    I would start the car and it would start. Then after I drove it for 2-3 minutes, and I stopped at red light or stop sign the car would stop and would only start after 10 seconds or so!! It kept on happening like this.


    I had oil change done. The dealer's mechanic told me my battery was at 425 ampheres and it should be at 725 ampheres or so but said I was okay and battery would recharge as I drive the car.
    And I drove the car for several hours after oil change.
    And I stopped the car at red light and it stopped and died on me! A good samaritan came behind me and stopped his car and gave me battery jump through his cables. But the car woould not start. When I turn the key it gives me 2 ghrr ghrr sounds the sound when you try to start the car and it would not start.
    Thank you.

    The weather is bad here now and has been like this for some days now! So I will take the car to mechanic on Monday. I take ride to work with a friend meanwhile.
    Would the dealer charge much more then the local mechanic?
  • This is really going in three different direction

    First: the shut off its a bad electric connection to the ignition.

    Second: the grr grr sound is a dead battery or a bad starter motor. A voltage check will determine which. A jump start should get the cars starter motor spinning, if the battery is not damaged, and the the wires are clean and tight.If the car is really 70k miles the battery is probably the original, and needs replaced.

    Third: the 425 amp hours is a reserve built into the battery by the manufacture It can never be changed by charging. Find another mechanic who isn't baffling you with B.S.

    Your dealer is the best bet Have the age of the battery ready so maybe you don't get charged for that too.Sears or Auto parts store can look up your battery amp hour rating for your car You can buy a big 700 amp hour battery, but why? The battery can start your car with the minimum required, whatever that is. 425 amp hours sounds right for a Toyota 4 cylinder engine. Its not the problem here.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Nobody can tell from an internet written description of "grr grr" what that means. To me, that could be the sound of the starter turning the engine, but it not firing (ie, no fuel delivery or no spark). If the battery were totally dead, you'd expect an internet description of "click", or perhaps if battery was low on voltage a "slow grr grr".

    This situation just needs a local mechanic to look at it, it shouldn't take long to diagnose.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    93 toyota camry cruise control , As I turn it on, it works for a while, then it starts going off and on and the cruise light starts blinking, then it stops working, and will not work again untill I shut the ignition off and restart the car, then it works again, but then does it again, what could be wrong with it ?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    For that model, you have a separate cruise control computer, which is up behind the glove box.

    An intermittent problem like this in that circuit really takes some sleuthing to figure out. There are three power sources which provides power in some way to that circuitry, start by making sure all three fuses are fine:
    - 15A ECU-1G,
    - 10A Gauge
    - 15A Stop

    Next, there are a number of 'inputs' to the cruise control computer, so you'll need to take each one and try to isolate down whether it is working correctly:
    - Backup light switch
    - stop light switch
    - parking brake switch
    - cruise control clutch switch
    - the combo switch
    - the vehicle speed sensor (would also effect your speedometer)
    - the main engine computer (which you really can't check)
    - the dash combination meter (your speedometer, which you really can't check it's input to the cruise ECU)
    I'd look as to whether there are any other symptoms which you didn't originally catch (like your brake lights not working right, etc). If something in the list above isn't working, then focus on fixing that. If nothing obvious, then you need to put a meter on the switch and continually work it back and forth to make sure the switch is consistently working correctly.

    Personally, I'd suspect some of the switches that have gotten used consistently for 15 years (brake light switch, stop light switch, combo switch, etc). However, the fact that it is blinking and won't go back into cruise mode seems to be an indicator that it is finding some error condition it doesn't like, and isn't allowing it to be turned back on until it is 'cleared' by turning off the ignition.

    If you have to go much further in diagnosis, it's going to start costing you bucks because you're going to have to swap out the cruise control ECU (might get one from a junk yard), or the cruise control actuator. Whether this makes sense to do in a 93 camry I guess depends upon how much money you have available to throw at it, and how much 'cruising' you actually do. I guess you could also try unseating and reseating connectors, to make sure they are getting a good contact surface.

    Good luck.
  • Kiawah

    Well we never hear back from the Camry won't Start. It had to be a dead battery. Sometimes they just wear out. Sounded like somebody looked at it and suggested a bigger one. And it had 70k miles on it. And never been changed or someone put in a cheap small one just to get by in the 12 year old car.

    It could be she/him was driving, and the battery didn't take a charge. Then when she came to a light and hit the brakes, the brake light comes on, and it zap the little electric left in the battery to keep the engine running. Never got it to jump. It wont jump because there's no water in it, and is damaged.

    I should of had her/ him check the water level in the battery, It was probably dry. The battery cell is shorted now and damaged. This would be a simple visual test. But they wouldn't pursue the dead battery theory, just kept repeating a 2 year history and it wont crank. Duh!!

    People they ask for help, then when you offer some they don't even want to hear you, I was suggesting start at the Battery Battery Battery.
  • Great troubleshooting we all benefit

    I guess you could say you already did the flush, the old fashioned way, but some chemical flush won't hurt.

    Good Job!!

    93 Camry station wagon a rare breed? I think of all the Camry's on the road I rarely see one of these.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    WHAT SHOULD I DO? I have 1 week and 500 miles left on my Platinum warranty. My 02 4cylinder Camry has 74.5K miles. It has had all its service. It had a head gasket job w/in the last year at the dealer under warranty (was blowing smoke). On a few occasions over the past few weeks I swear I get a wiff of anti freeze smell in the garage. I had and oil change not too long ago. I popped the hood and saw nothing unusual....recovery tank was at appropriate mark. The lid may have been loose---not sure. No signs of a leak anywhere? Should call the dealer? Bring it in? What will they check? What will it cost to check it? How long do the water pumps last? Whats a water pump job run out of warranty? Opinions please!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did they replace the water pump, when you had the head off for the head gasket..... or is still the original pump?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    They replaced the head gasket under platinum warranty a year mention of water pump change. I see no leaks in my garage. Still original pump as far as I know. My timing belt was squeaky and replace under original warranty at around 30K. My existing belt should be good for another 15K or so...almost 2 years they way I drive. Just thought I'd mention that.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It probably wasn't your timing belt that was changed at 30K (which isn't visible and is inside the engine), I'm guessing it was your accessory belt (which is outside the engine) and doesn't last as long as an internal timing belt.

    If anyone replaced your timing belt, that typically is a 500 - 1000 dollar job, they typically would replace the water pump since they're in there.

    If you are really smelling anti-freeze, then it could be just a simple problem like a hose clamp that needs tightening or a cap that needs replaced, or it could be more serious (radiator leak, water pump leak, heater core leak, etc).

    If your anti-freeze level isn't dropping, then there is no need to excessively worry about this, just continue to monitor the level.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    Whoa...on that timing belt thing...I was under the impression, on the 02 and later Camry's that there was only one serpentine belt...nothing in the engine...were these not called timing chains? In fact I think I remember getting coupons for a 'timing belt' replacement for $200+ or I wrong? I also believe that with this design, if the belt brakes, no harm comes to the it does with older fashion timing chains....
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    so there is no real magic test the dealer can do except look over everything....would they even see a water pump leak? How much is a new water pump on an 02 Camry?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ahh sorry,

    For a 2002 internal to the engine, if your engine is a V6 then there is a timing belt....if it is an I4 then it is a chain. On the outside of both engines, there is also an accessory belt.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    just spoke w/ are correct, the 2002 4cylinder has a chain in the engine...if it goes it can cause great problems...YET...he told me there is no replacement inteval...said it is designed to last as long as the engine..if you keep up with your oild changes it should not be an issue.....DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT?

    He said the other belt is about $90 to change unless a new tensioner is needed then $300+.

    He said only to change the water pump when it fails....could also cost $400.

    Does all this sound about right?

    Should I take the car in and have them look at the water pump...would they even be able to tell if its starting to go bad...I should have asked I the guy I I said, warranty is good for another week only....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Unless you are seeing antifreeze dripping from the shaft of the waterpump, see a puddle of antifreeze on the floor, seeing a loss of antifreeze level out of your recovery tank, or hear the waterpump shaft squealing....taking it to the dealer will most likely result in a no trouble found (and a potential charge for that analysis). Nobody will pull and replace a waterpump because you think you smell antifreeze. It is much more likely you have a leak from a hose clamp that isn't tight enough anymore.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    ok, thanks..I'll just kepp and eye and nose on it this week!

    So about that timing it true it should last and need not be repalced on any given interval.....
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