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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • rex16rex16 Posts: 2
    I am having similar problems with my car. Did you manage to fix yours. need some advice please.

  • debshanedebshane Posts: 4
    I've been trying to figure this out, so I don't buy the wrong thing. I see 3 fan relays and one a/c relay. Which relay is just the rad fan on the drivers side 1,2 or 3? The a/c relay says a/c. Also, if it's the switch, which I have no idea what and where that is. Would that effect both cooling fans? I can't afford to go have it all tested and it's overheating with stop and go driving, fans not coming on at all, even when I turn on the air.

    Thank you for your help :)
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Your post is a little confusing.

    The symptoms you are experiencing are what? Car overheats (only in stop and go driving), and you notice that neither of the cooling fans turns on......even when the a/c is on? Is that correct?

    What is the significance/purpose of this question:
    "which relay is just the rad fan on the drivers side"
    Is that to mean that the drivers side fan does not work, but the other one does?
  • debshanedebshane Posts: 4
    Yes all of the above. It started overheating and I noticed that the fans were not kicking in, even at the hottest point, not even when I turn on the a/c. If it's the relays (1,2 or 3), then I could get the one for the rad relay alone (don't know which one), and not use the a/c. I just can't afford the testing, the switch and all the relays. Then again, what if it's the fan motors?

    So does this explain enough, or is it more confusing? I wish I just had enough money to go have it taken care of, but I don't. So, I press on to the answer, hopefully. Thanks :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Unfortunately, I am travelling this week and don't have access to my service manuals to give you specific advise for that year and model. I'll be back in town by the end of the week, and can look up how it's all wired then.

    In the meantime, did you check your fuses? I'd suspect a fuse first. If your owners manual doesn't tell you which one, I'll look it up and tell you later this week.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Okay, back in town.

    You have a 4 cylinder, correct?

    First step....
    There are three fuses feeding this circuitry. You need to check all three to verify that they are okay.
    - 15A ECU-IG This is in the passenger compartment, drivers left knee
    - 30A RDI FAN These next two, are in the engine compartment, on the passenger side wheel well, up towards the front by the headlight. These two fuses sit between the raidator relay and the engine main relay.
    - 30A CDS Fan

    Let me know whether you find any of them an open circuit.

    Also, verify that your turn signals and wipers work.
  • debshanedebshane Posts: 4
    Yes a 4 cylinder, LE.

    Thank you for that info, the wipers and the turn signals work. I think the a/c fan motor may be burnt out. I did a direct power feed to it and nothing. The other one too. Maybe I did it wrong. So I will check the fuses as you say. Tomorrow I will let you know what if anything is good or bad.

    Thank you,
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would not think it likely that both motors would burn out at the same time. It is possible, just not something you would expect to find.

    But yes, applying the power directly to the motor is a good way to test that the motors are okay. One of the wires to the motor goes to +positive 12volts, and the other to -engine ground.

    The way this circuitry is built with the relays, the fan motors will either run at half speed or full speed. But ignore that for now. When you test the motors by applying the voltage directly to them the way described above, they should run at full speed.
  • I'm jumping in to the radiator fan question

    If you have a relay not working you can pull it and apply a 9v battery to the in and out terminals, the diagram is usuallyon the side. However it should click if you turn the A/C on with the key in the run position I believe thats how it works. It energizes all relays when A/C is on. Since none of the positions are working it sounds like the fan motor on the radiator.

    Also if you can get to a pull your own parts at a junk yard, you can swap out relay's, no troubleshooting involved, or just replace the motor on the Radiator. I think that's the problem. Use some jumper cables and connect it to the Radiator motor when you get it off your car, to verify working like in the post before.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There are three relays in the circuit, and there are four 'inputs' that are used to determine what the fan operation should be.

    - IF Ignition is ON 'and' AC Pressure is low 'and' coolant temperature is low, then relay 1 is energized (Norm Closed points), and the Radiator fan is OFF.

    - IF Ignition is ON 'and' either the AC Pressure is high 'or' the coolant temperature is high, then relay 1 is not energized, and the Radiator fan is ON full speed, getting it's power from the RDI Radiator Fuse.

    - IF Ignition is ON 'and' the AC is ON 'and' the AC pressure is low 'and' the coolant temperature is high, then relays 1/2/3 are all energized, and both fans will work at low speed (fans wired in series) getting their power from the CDS Fan fuse.

    - IF Ignition is ON 'and' the AC is ON 'and' the AC pressure is high 'and' the coolant temperature is high, then relays 1/2 are not energized, and both fans run at full speed. The Radiator fan gets it's power from the RDI fan fuse, and the AC condenser fan motor gets it's power from the CDS fuse.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    My older 1995 Camry LE 2 door stopped at traffic light and now won't start!
    I had gotten oil change done at the dealer the same day around 3pm an dcamry stopped at traffic light at 11:pm! I had to get it towed to hoime. Now the car won't start. What could be wrong with this car?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    A hundred different things could be wrong. It takes fuel/air, compression, and a spark....all in the correct proportions and at the right time.

    How many miles on your timing belt?
  • debshanedebshane Posts: 4
    Radiator is only about 5 yrs old and fine. We tested the motors and both are burnt out. I sold some tires and bought the fans, the switch and thermostat. But my machanic friend stood me up this morning. So, at least the big stuff will be taken care of, when he ever calls me back.

    Thank you for your help. I will let you know if that all works.

  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    I have 73K miles on my car.
    Funny thing I had oil change done at this toyota dealrship also last time just like this time. At that ime they told me I needed a new timing belt.

    Funny because I thought I had gotten my timing belt changed about 4 months prior to that! But at a different dealership then this one.

    So when I got oil change done this time with this toyota dealership I went and asked the mechanic if he could look and see If my timing belt was new. This guy was shifty and he told me he had looked at my timing belt and it looked new!!!
    But last time they told me I neededa new timing belt!!
    But in between the 2 oil changes at that toyota dealership I didn't get any timing belt!!

    Why did the car stopped and would not start - I am wondering on the same day when I had my oil change done at this toyota dealership? I got oil change done at 3pm and the car stopped at 11pm when I stopped at a red light traffic light. And I drove the car on and off inbetween. And it was working.

    But I had gotten some service done almost 7 months ago at a different dealership(where I had timing belt change done also)
    And since then the toyota would stop after I had started it for 5 minutes and at traffic red light or a stop sign but then it would alawys start in 1 minute again.

    Now after I had that oil change done at this toyota dealership the car just stopped at the red traffic light and would not start. I had car towed to my home and it is still not starting.

    The car key would turn and lights would come on and as I turn the car key it a Ghrr and ghrr sound would come on - sound like when the car does not start? And car has not started.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As mentioned, it could be hundreds of things and nobody over the internet is going to be able to figure out your problem based upon the only fact that it won't start.

    Unless you know a competent mechanic who will come to the car with his tools, you'll need to get it towed to a garage, and have them diagnose what the problem is.

    You seem to be making a linkage in your mind between the oil change and this problem. Unless you ran out of oil, your oil light came on and you are out of oil, it probably had nothing to do with the oil change. You drove it for a couple of hours and any number of things totally unrelated to an oil change could have gone wrong.

    Let a shop look at it, and see what they find.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    Is city garage good honest shop? They are charging almost $100 to diagnose why the car won't start? Is that okay price? Other issue I have is that I have only 2 AAA tows left. if city garage charge too much I may have to find some one else and then again get the car towed to that place.
    One question - could the problem be the starter? The lights come on and when I turn the key the car makes ghrr ghrr noise? So could it be the starter?
    or spark plugs?
    fule pump?
    fuel filter?
    or something else.
    One person told be it could be the sending unit? I don't even know what that is.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    why did you ask for timing belt?
    Honestly I "thought" that I got it changed about 7 months ago but I am not sure.
    In my last oil change before this one the dealer recommended I get my timing belt changed and about "water pump leak"
    Could that have something to do with car stopping?
    I will take the car to get it checked this week.
    Also could I tow my car with another car? How do i do that? what equipment will I need. I am thinking of doing it as that car garage is only 2 miles from my place.
    Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Your car stopped running immediately, and has never attempted to run again even poorly. A lot of times when one of the many sensors are starting to go bad, it may run poorly for a while, and then even run okay.

    If a timing belt breaks, the engine will stop immediately and absolutely not run until it's replaced.

    I asked about a timing belt replacement, based upon the age of the vehicle. It would have cost you somewhere around 500 to $1000 to replace the timing belt, and they do the water pump also while they have everything torn apart.....since at 70/80/100K it's on last legs as well.

    The accessory belt is one that is on the outside of the engine that you see, and many oil change places ask you if you want it replaced since it's easy to do. Belt is probably 30 bucks, takes 10-15 minutes to do, and perhaps they might charge you 50-100 bucks.

    The timing belt is somewhat internal to the engine, and a major repair. The mechanic can test easily for cylinder compression, which if you have none is a major problem.

    But again, there are many many things that could be wrong, and you need a mechanic to look at it to determine what the problem is. You (we/me) should not be randomly guessing, based upon a 'no-start' a grr-grr sound. If you are not mechanically inclined with tools, let a mechanic diagnose this so you don't do any other damage and run the repair bill up further.

    If you have access to a pu truck (or something what can tow a 3500ish pound load, you can rent a car dolly at say Hertz for maybe 30-40 bucks a day. But I'd suggest to call a tow truck, let the professionals handle this.

    I don't know what kind of shape this vehicle is in, and how much money you are willing to sink into it before you cut your losses and run. But you should be doing a little research to understand it's value in a non-running condition, and a running condition. This may be a cheap repair, this may be an expensive repair. If you have a leaking waterpump already, you're looking at the timing belt/waterpump repair as stated earlier.
  • Toyota Camry not start.

    Go to mycarspace for pictures. Seach:"blog:1990 q-45. Then scroll to 93 Toyota Camry V6 plug change".

    I'd check the wire harness to the distributor. Iif they are not clicked onto the ignition circuit harness tightly, they will vibrate off and on at a light. I know mine did this after changing the valve cover gasket I forgot to push the wires on tight.It drove ok for about a week then one day it shut off at the light then started right back up.

    One quick simple test is to pull a plug wire off, on top of the engine (comes from distributor too ) and insert a phillips srewdriver in the wire where the spark plug was connected or insert a spark plug on here. Crank the engine, and look for a spark.

    I do this test in the dark with the screwdriver touching some metal part on the engine. This eliminates timing belt, electrical, A 2minute test!! Tomorrow will test fuel pump.
  • I read your problem wrong 93 Camry stopped .

    I think you now run your battery down or you have engine problems mechanical parts, not electrical

    Its one thing the car shuts off but another if it won't crank over. A Starter Motor is spinning fast, just before the engine runs. It sounds like it wont even crank over. Is it spinning fast still?.....No?

    So now you have two problems a dead battery, and the problem when it originally shut off at the light.

    When trying to start a car, if it dosen't start in 2-3 seconds something is wrong, More trouble shooting is required. Simply cranking the engine over and over will only make more things worst. Battery, fails.Starter Motor gets hot.

    Right now you need a volt meter connected at the battery, or a jump start. Then do the test in above post.Your battery should show 12.5 or more volts.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    okay. It is 1995 Toyota camry LE 2 door with 73000 miles on it.
    The car won't start
    It won't CRANK.

    When I turn the key in to start it only that Ghrr Ghrr noise.

    There is no Cranking
    and I don't hear any engine noise at all.

    No I don not hear any starter motor spining fast.

    All lights come on when I turn the car key.
    After the car stopped I had tried to get battery charged but it made no difference.
    So the battery is okay.

    The background again:
    What happened was:
    I had the car serviced before. ONLY after servicing that the car BEGAN to stop after 5 minutes and only when I was stopped at a Traffic red light or a stop sign.
    But then it would start back in less then 1 minute maybe even in 30 seconds or so.

    But last thursday it stopped as I was coming home from running errands after getting the oil change done by the toyota dealer.
    And it would just not start unlike before.

    There is no cranking. I hear no engine noise when I turn the key.
    It seems to have died on me.
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    The car has only 73k miles on it.
    well I went to auto parts retailer today. He recommened a mechanic to me. Also he told me don't go to 1 AAA recommened garage. "those guys are crooks." I don't know what to say. I asked him why. He said they overcharge you and gave me an example of a lady who he said was overcharged.
    Yeah I got to find out if my timing belt was changed 7 months ago.
    See I asked the dealers' auto mechanic if my timing belt was new. He said it looked new, but at the prior oil change the dealer said I needed timing belt changed! But in between these 2 oil changes I did not get any timing belt replaced!!

    Now I am suspicious of that dealer's mechanic. May be he did something to my timing belt. You can tell if someone is shifty and not honest. I could be wrong.
    I don't know really if that dealer's mechanic actually did something to my timing belt.

    But I will get the car checked this week. probably call someone to tow it.
    One guy is charging almost 98 dollars and other almost 70 dollars! one way of course and that is only 3 miles far from my house!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The timing belt is inside the engine, nobody could have done anything to it.
  • Camry wont start

    This is confusing when you turn the key you say the lights come on To me that means headlights Try and just turn the lights on without the key . This test will tell you if the battery is charged, and in good condition. Leave the lights on for Two Minutes. The lights should stay on if you have a good battery. If the lights past this test go to the next step, and turn the lights off.

    Next try and spin the motor over with the key in the start position, NOT the run position. Does it spin over at all? Or does it make a groaning noise, like when the battery is dead?

    It is important to isolate the problem to the battery, or the engine. If the battery is good then your engine is bad. If the battery is bad we can't test the engine till you fix that problem first.

    I can't tell if you have a good battery because you say the lights come when you turn the key on. The key has nothing to do with the lights. Then you say it makes a grr grr sound, like the Starter is not spinning the engine.This is a dead battery!!
  • chilonchilon Posts: 9
    The lights came on without using the car key and they stayed on for the 2 minutes you told me to time.
    The engine does not crank when I turn the key.
    One question
    do all/most shops include the car diagnosis cost in the labor cost if I get the repairs done from them?
    Or is it a separate charge?
  • 100way100way Posts: 2
    I have just inherited a 98 Camry from my brother, which I use to drive my mom around as I'm the new care giver. He drove like a mad man.

    Issue: When cold, it has trouble changing to the next gear and afterwards, hesitates and lags at a constant speed (30ish)(auto trans). Runs fine after a few miles. Has 100,000 miles. Seems the oil has been changed regularly but other maintenance I do not know.

    Any advice before I take it to the shop? Thanks.
  • Camry no start

    Great, you can't spin the engine at all. This is an electric problem. The key is fused the lights are not. So we have to check fuses to the to the ignition key.

    If your not afraid to look under the hood you can start looking for the fuses. I have a picture of where this is. A 95 Camry, let me look.

    Diagnosis could be over hundred dollars. Then the labor to fix the problem more. Fixing and diagnosis is two separate things.
  • 98 Camry trans lags

    Short answer is to check the level of the fluid in the trans. I believe it should be running and in park.
  • 100way100way Posts: 2
    Thanks, will do. I think I read how to check the trans on this site: drive ten mins, park, shift into all gears and then check level while running. ....drum roll....
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, and make sure the transmission is fully in park and the parking brake is set firmly. Also, clean off any grease and crud on the top of the dipstick and tube before removing the stick (easy to do on the Camry because of its positioning right up front). If the level is between the hash marks and looks cherry red, I wouldn't add any more, as 10 minutes generally isn't enough to get the level up to the "full" mark.
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