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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • Squeal may be the plastic rubbing on the steering wheel not a normal maintenance thing but find some lithium spray grease in the the same section of the store and spray it on the area where the steering wheel meets the column
  • Price for timing belt change.

    Sometimes I see dealers run specials for this service. Id walk in, not drive in and ask about any service special. Of course this dealer has already gave you a price. Im guessing a 4 clyinder is about $200.00 labor plus $55.00 for the part.That's 3 hours tops at $65-$75/hr. A master mechanic specializing on this car will have it done in 30mins.

    I do my own for the price of a belt from the local parts store which is about $30.00.
  • To check your evap system it starts in the area behind the gas tank beneath the trunk. A bunch of hoses are there.

    I doubt if this area is bad, but another area possibly with a tube off is the VSV next to the MAF flow sensor in the duct from the air filter. The VSV(vacuum switching valve) could have a loose tube, hose. It is to the right of the MAF, and related to the EVAP canister in the trunk area.

    This is for a 2AZ-FE engine (4 cylinder).the fuse for EFI main is forward right corner of fuse block
  • thanks!---Just spray it up into the column...?
  • ibm650ibm650 Posts: 1
    Just had mechanic replace bank 1 sensor 1 (one by firewall), which was my previous 171 code, about 5 miles later , check engine light on , codes are 171 and 1135. Suggestions?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    When you replace the battery all of the "learned" parameters concerning the optimal operation of the engine and transaxle will be lost and replaced by the original factory default parameters. Engineering "best guess" parameters that only apply to a completely new car as it rolls off the factory floor.

    Within ~500 miles your engine/transaxle control ECU will have (re)learned, corrected, the parameters in order to again have optimal operation of a well broken in, well worn, '04 with XXX miles accrued.
  • Column squeak

    I'd spray anywhere the parts that turn, touch parts that don't turn.l It might be hard to see anything under the dash. The rubbing could be at the steering wheel where it meets the turn signal switches and controls. Go very lightly. Then spray your seat tracks, and window tracks to help them move easier.
  • These codes are for lean mixture.

    Remove code and try to see if it resets again. Remove fuse in engine compartment for ten seconds. Its marked EFI. It should be in the forward right corner of the fuse box. Have key in off position.
  • 92 camry LE automatic 187,000 miles
    While driving all 4 doors unlocked. Pressed the door lock button and they went back to unlock position.
    Doors will not remain in the lock position.
    Appreciate the help.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2001-2006 Toyota Camry who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to no later than Friday, November 21, 2008 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.

    Thanks for your consideration,

    Jonathan Wahl
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds Inc.


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  • I took my 1997 Camry in for a discount oil change for $19.95. The dealership does a complete inspection--wonder why?

    While there, they said I needed a coolant change as mine was only good to 0 degrees farenheit. The price was $149.

    They also said I had a leak in my power steering pump and high pressure hose.

    Refused all work.

    Came home and checked my oil level--it was nearly 1 quart high on the dipstick. Bad enough, but I also checked my coolant. The guage said it was good to -45 degrees below zero.

    Needless to say, I think they are trying to increase sales in the service department.

    Please, be careful with anyone working on your car in this weak economy.

    Thanks, Brad
  • Not sure what this could be but once I start the car it runs for a sec and then stops. However Once i start the car and hold down the accelerator for about 15 secs, and then let it go, it's fine..

    Happens once in a while. Any suggestions? The car has been well maintained. I've taken in to the dealer and told them of this issue. However they seem to find nothing wrong?
  • No run after start.

    Sounds like its in the cold start system. Is it only when first starting and sometimes when its not completely warmed up?.

    I have a 93 V6 engine . When I disconnect the coolant sensor it wont start, or is more difficult.usually taking 5 seconds or more to start, not quite the same as your problem, but close. It goes to the cold start injector which makes the car start easier when cold. When I hook it back up it always fast idles for a couple minutes before returning to normal idle even when warmed up but not as long. I guessing that sensor is not working right on yours and doing something different with the fuel signal to all the injectors.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi there, I had this same problem with my 99 4 cyl and it was the IDLE CONTROL VALVE. If you search this in edmunds you will find several others had the same problem. The tricky thing is that it will "test" fine electrically by the mechanic because the real problem is that it binds up with carbon. It is about a 240 dollar part and you must know if your car was built in the USA or canada and whether it has california emissions. I let a couple mechanics tell me it was several different things from 02 sensors to throttle control valves and spent about $1000 until I went on a hunch and replaced the ICV. It won't get better on its own.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 3,006
    My daughter's '99 Camry (4 cyl) has started making a whirring noise when she starts the engine. Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it gets a little louder. She took it to a dealer who said she might be looking at rod failure down the road, but it isn't broken yet. What kind of repair would that be? The car has nearly 140,000 miles on it.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • Whirling noise

    I start a simple check by loosening the belt to the alternator or the easiest belt on the car to get to. Then start the car for a few seconds to see if it goes away . The problem is in the belt driven part, if it goes away. Sometimes a pulley going bad, or alternator will make that noise. Not a rod, not at that milegae unless you left oil out of the engine for any lenth of time. Hes crazzzzy!.
  • I recently bought a 2002 Camry that has started with the blue smoke at start-up problem. Took to a shop and was told it would cost $2000 + to replace the valve stem seals. I called the dealer and they said they wouldn't waste the money to fix it. I have been reading about the sludge issues the older toyotas had and am wondering if not fixing the problem is going to cause a bigger problem down the road. Anyone have any advice?
  • Blue smoke at start.

    I had the same problem. My oil consumption was a quart a month. I put in an additive called 'No Smoke', and it worked. My car passed smog, and my oil consumption dropped. The bottle is about $4.00 dollars.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I had the same problem with my former '97 Camry 4-cylinder, which was purchased new. The valve stem seals were replaced under the powertrain warranty at 57K miles, but I got the blue smoke on startup again at 102K miles. I didn't bother to get it fixed the 2nd time, but sold the car at 111K with a disclosure. My car didn't consume any noticeable amount of oil either time.

    If the problem is valve stem seals, you don't necessarily have sludge (my car did not). But $2000 seems excessively high. You might want to get a quote from an independent shop that is recommended by friends, relatives, or co-workers. I'd regard the additive as a "band-aid" that won't solve the problem. On the other hand, I don't think blue smoke on startup needs attention right away -- only if your oil consumption increases dramatically or the car fails emission tests (if required in your area).

    Also, you didn't mention whether you have a 4-cylinder or a V6. The 4 was new for 2002 and doesn't have sludge problems as far as I know. The V6 was carryover and continued to have sludge problems that year.
  • Smoke at start up and some blue smoke at higher rpms.

    I thought it was my stems too and it still might be part of the problem. At higher rpm though, I get oil burn this would point to the pistons and rings. I'm betting its sludge on the rings. I watched the the tail pipe at a constant 2400 RPM's for two minutes during the smog check and it blowing blue smoke. I never notice it when driving. Then I read this topic on the engine forum and discovered these engines have this problem. Now I know. I never thought Toyota's would have this problem. My compression in engine is excellent.

    I thinking of taking the engine out next year and cleaning the piston ring grooves, and installing new bearings and valve stem seals while I'm at it. Right now the bottle of No Smoke is getting it past smog.

    1993 V6 3MZ engine 225k miles.
  • Your motor is burned out. The electrical switch is different for the lock and the window. So you will have to replace the motor in the door for your window. Check out this placeauto repair it will help you find a place to fix it if you dont want to do it yourself.
  • We will be replacing the coil as soon as we get it off the distributor. The car is my bro-in-laws and he says when he went to turn it off, he smelled something burning and the car would never start since. It pumps fuel, but I get no spark at the plug. We are replacing the basics: cap/rotor/coil. If that fails to produce a spart, we will be looking at the ignitor module.

    It appears the best way to get to the underside of the coil to remove the securing screws is to losen the distributor, which then means we've got to set the timing after we install the coil.

    Any advice on how to better replace the coil would be welcomed. Any advice or links to perform timing on the car would, as well, be welcomed.

    My preference is to search edmunds, then the internet for a solution rather than posing a question that's already been satisfied, directly or indirectly. Needless to say, I have failed over the last several days to find a proper answer/advice.

    Thank you!
  • The timing would have been easier to set if you marked the Distributor where it mounts on the engine. I get a chisel place it where the two surfaces meet and hit it with a hammer. This gives you an exact match of the marks when reassembling.

    Now you will have to set the timing the old fashioned way. First, get the engine at TDC This can be found by putting the mark on the crankshaft pulley at the TDC mark, to the marks for TDC and advance timing on the cover that is attached under this pulley.

    Next when you slide the distributor on the rotor should be close to the No. 1 position according to the wire on the cap going to spark plug. You still have all the wires on the cap? On the V6 engine, No1 should be at the 11 o'clock position. Keep the cap off but use the rotor to find align to the no 1 position. If you look inside the engine, the shaft will go into another shaft, these shafts have slight offset on them both. This is so you can only get them together one way.If it doesn't align up, rotate the engine one more turn, 360 degrees around so they align.

    What this does is set it at TDC again. This is because the engine always turns over two times while the distributor only turns over once.So you have two position at TDC on the engine. One is correct the other is one complete turn in the wrong direction. Trying to figure out which one is correct before installing the distributor is a guess. But again Toyota wont let you put the distributor in in this incorrect position.

    When you slid the distributor on, the rotor should be at the No1 position when it mates back on to the engine.

    Another way to find TDC is remove the no 1 spark plug and put a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. Use a socket attached to your ratchet that fits the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn it over until the straw stops moving up and just before it starts back down. This is TDC.

    All these procedure are to get it close to TDC, because on Toyota you can get away with being close and not exact on the timing marks. That because the parts only fit one way, which wont allow you to be off a tooth or degree like other motors. Even the plug wires only go on one way to the correct cylinders.
  • Continue my last response.

    Once the distributor is in you can fine tune the timing. I remove the rotor so I can see the shaft going through the distributor. Near the bottom by the coils or module you replaced is six poles on this shaft. Align the one so it is passing over the module mark. This sends the signal to the distributor to fire the plug. This is as close to TDC you can get. Then turn the shaft slightly ahead so it is past this point . Now your timing is slightly advanced. Ideal timing is 6 degrees advanced.

    Another way is to set the timing marks is to set the crankshaft pulley to 6 degrees BTDC and then center the pole on the distributor to the module pick up point.WARNING: Always rotate engine in the direction of rotation not backwards . This will avoid the timing chain coming off.
  • I'm sure u have a worn motor brushes.
  • Hi
    I got 93 Camry 4cyl. run fine but 1 day it just die, I check timingbelt,it still good. only ignition coil and igniter that i cannot check. Anyone have any idea or been thru this similar situation please let me know, thanks
  • Thank you very much. We did as you suggested:marking with a chisel (and nail polish for good measure.) We will replace the unit today and update the thread with the results.

    I'm really thrilled with the advice on TDC and what not.

    The four cylinder does denote each plug on the distributor cap. But I never remove plug wires before marking them anyhow. Excellent advice all around!
  • All worked well after the coil replacement. After about 10 mins of warming the car up (in Md., the air is quite chilly), the engine stopped and will no longer start. It follows, I'm thinking, that the ignitor module is defective causing the coils to fry. Will be hunting for where that puppy is. According to one manual I was reading, they (the IM) are all external (to the distributor) with one model being the exception.
  • I read your fix on coil replacement.

    The module is usually on the fender under the coil. I was confused when you replaced something inside the distributor. Could be wrong though.

    Another test would be to turn the key on to the run position, but dont start it. In 10 or 20 minutes try and start it. This will eliminate the fuel system(electrical too) as being bad. Since your car is shutting off after the car runs for 10 minutes it might be fuel related. In this test the fuel pump would not be running if the engines off, but the ignition module will be getting hot, and not work after 10 minutes.

    The module can go bad if the ignition is left on for 30 minutes or more.
  • So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45 minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the engine stopped firing in mid drive.

    Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and the terminals.

    I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

    I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

    I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also, there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin, and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

    What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?
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