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Oil - on my 2007, (same as the 2009) I use Castrol GTX 5W-20. Just picked up a case for $2.69 per quart.
Not really very likely.
Most any premium brand filter is likely to be better.
Just how are they safer? What are the factors?
>and much better.
And how is this measured?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Like the "captive" GPS systems.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Any thoughts if this is a serious risk to buy? I've narrowed down my choices to the camry, but also have considered a nissan altima.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
My airbags didn't deploy either. My hood, both fenders and the huge front bumper were all replaced (it's mostly a bolt-on procedure) and frankly, I can't tell the difference from NEW.
It all depends on the quality of the work. But if it looks good and feels alright when you drive it, it's probably fine.
(Just don't let that stop you from negotiating the hell out of the guy based on the fact that it DID have an accident. You can have a big accident with no airbag deployment! Mine was around $8K...but as I say, it looks like/handles like new.)
Good luck,
Mike.
P.S. I like the Altima, too.
2. Don't trust the dealer about the repairs...take it to a trusted body shop and let them check out...again I wouldn't touch a repaint car.
3. 25k miles is very high for a '09 car. I just traded in my 2 years old '07 Altima w/ only 18k miles.
You should be able to get the new 2010 LE for around 19k. I think it's a better investment.
My Camry certainly didn't mind being fed a steady diet of Fram filters over the 150,000 miles I drove it before giving to my daughter (she drove it for two more years and recently sold it to her boyfriend!)
Plus, I don't think a company that sells a product with as bad a reputation as you imply would still be around after 70 years.
To each his own, I guess, but I plan to put a Fram in my BMW next week when it gets its annual change of Mobil 1.
Happy New Year to all!
(the other......or, should I say another...) Michael
Anyway, I mostly used Fram all through the 80s and 90s with no apparent issues, but I read some info here on Edmunds around 10 years ago that caused me to switch to Purolator or Toyota OEM (I get a pretty good discount on the latter through my workplace).
You can Google "orange can of death" and make you own call. This is one of the best analyses. IMO, it just isn't worth taking a chance with Fram. Plus as is the case with most brands that may have once been independent, they're now typically owned by much larger conglomerates.
Happy new year also to everyone reading this!
1) When I use the heat and have the recirculate button on, recirculating turns off after about 4 minutes. I notice it because I start smelling fumes from the cars in front of me, and when I look down, the recirculate button light is off. It happens consistently after about 4 minutes in the on position.
2) When I drive the car after it has not been in use for about 4 hours, the whole car vibrates somewhat excessively when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign (also vibrates like this sometimes when in reverse). The vibration is originating from under the hood. Turning the wheel slightly while stopped makes the vibration stop instantly for about a couple seconds, but then it resumes. Also, shifting from drive to neutral while the vibration is present stops the vibration. Shifting to reverse amplifies the vibration. Turning the a/c off stops the vibration permanently, but that isn't often plausible in FL. I described the problem briefly to a service guy who said I am filling up with bad gas. I will not be going back to that dealer. Anybody have a better guess?
But, grammar lessons aside......here is my 2c worth:
On the recirc......I'm guessing only (but Toyota factory [probably not your dealer, cause they're typically not smart enough] could confirm) that the 'recirculate' mode has a timer or humidity control that kicks out so that you don't end up either a) with fog inside your car due to high humidity, or b) suffering oxygen deprivation caused by breathing the finite amount of air in the closed cabin space. It COULD be more complicated than that, but I doubt it. Toyota MAY have a fix/adjustment for this, but I wouldn't "hold my breath", as it were!
On the vibration: have a look at your tachometer when the vibration is occurring; I'm (again guessing) you'll see that your engine is turning at a rate of close to 500-700 RPM when this vibration is heard/felt. This is simply a function of the fact that few engines, especially four cylinders, which I suspect yours probably is, were meant to be able to sustain such low rotational speeds with any level of smoothness. There are such things as flywheels and vibration dampers and counterweights built in to all engines to overcome the inherent "thumping" of centrifugal force present in piston-up/piston-down engines.....but at extremely low RPMs, even these measures cannot undue the forces of physics. In other words, they ALL do it. (at least both mine have!)
I wouldn't worry about that one at all.
Happy New Year!
Mike
There IS a way to make it stay on, but you have to be careful, like you used to in older cars. All you do is push and hold down the button for 5 seconds, then release it. If you do this, it will stay on recirculate until you either shut the car off, or switch the vent controls into or out of the defrost positions.
I agree with notmybmw on #2.
Also, I saw another quirk with the car on the forum (though I wouldn't bother getting it fixed) -- up until I read the post I didn't think it was a Toyota problem, but since someone else had the exact same problem, it must be another Toyota quality issue. The plastic on the inside of the door developed white spots. Almost looks like (and I thought maybe someone in my car did) got some sort of chemical or bleach on the plastic that caused white bloches. Someone on the forum reported they had the plastic on the door replaced twice due to white bloches developing. In my view Toyota quality is lacking in the '09 model.
As you coastdown, throttle fully closed, brake use or no, the transaxle will upshift as the speed declines below 40-35MPH, "slingshot" effect as some call it. The same thing happens just below 10MPH, and the transmission then, unless you decide to accelerate, will only downshift into 1st once the vehicle has come to a full and complete stop.
If you're still not sure your car is right, you could ask for a test drive of a new 2010 or 2009 Camry, if the dealer will let you (these cars are not allowed to be sold right now because of the recall).
Now I wonder should I worry that it will get another set of problems at 20,000 miles other than the vvt-i rubber oil line that is certain to rupture for which there was a recall in Canada but none in the USA.
As to my car ......... which should be consistent with others (build date 04/08 in Kentucky) ................... is it so flawless that the inconsistent behavior with the transmission is going to pop up later? Is my virtually flawless car going to become a lemon in a few months and possibly kill someone?
If there is anyone with enough knowledge to know what's going on here; please respond. It is absurd enough aleady that I have to stand on the brakes at stoplights in fear of Sudden Acceleration problems ........ that I have another cause for worry......... that the transmission may go out. Obviously, the Toyota drive by wire system SUCKS. I just love the message placed on my last oil change receipt ..... "owner refuses floormat removal" ........... uh duh ........... they are in fact the rubber all weather floormats (factory installed carpeted floormats are in the garage) secured by pinhooks which make the accelerator pedal over 5 inches from the darn floormats.
Thanks
I have two Camrys, a 2004 and a 2005 with a combined mileage of 114,000. Both have been great cars.
But RWD and R/awd have a definite advantage when it comes to these Toyota/etc run-a-way engine episodes. With RWD the brakes will bring the front wheels, and the car, to a full and complete stop, even with the rear wheels spinning madly due to the floor mat,.....no correct that....the stuck gas pedal....no, correct that...the faulty firmware.....
In the summertime, not an issue/problem.
In the wintertime with the windshield interior surface chilled due to impinging COLD outside airflow....a problem, potentially a BIG problem. Should the temperature of the interior surface of the windshield decline to the dewpoint of the passenger cabin atmosphere...INSTANT condensation covering the entire windshield surface.
Suddenly...NO forward vision.
Recirc + A/C + wintertime = BAD NEWS...!!
We currently have no method of determining if the A/C will be efficient, efficient enough, at dehumidifying cabin airflow, or even incoming FRESH airflow, to advise its use at all.
So my advice is to NEVER use recirculate mode in the wintertime, and furthermore NEVER allow the A/C to be operational during cool or cold weather driving. The results may not be favorable.
All could be braked to a stop, including the Camry, although it took over 900 (!) feet to bring the 500+ hp Roush Mustang to a stop from 100 mph.
The conclusion that faulty firmware is the problem on the Camry is pure speculation (that is, armchair engineering) by the way.
With RWD who cares if the engine is still spinning the rear wheels MADLY, the 70-80% primary braking HP will still bring the front wheels to a full stop, or at least under ABS control.
"...pure speculation.."
No, more like an EDUCATED guess.
Drive along for say, an hour, with the OAT not quite down to the shutdown point. Or even WORSE, drive from a fairly warm and humid climate (HIGH A/C dehumidification efficiency) into a COLD climate and LOW Rh (Seattle to anyone of the nearby mountain passes).
In this latter case you can be certain that when the A/C is finally shut down due to declining OAT the 10,000 square inches of evaporator vane cooling surface area will be SUPER-SATURATED with condensate, MOISTURE. Now you MUST use fresh intake airflow, SUPER DRY fresh intake airflow, and that incoming airflow will "absorb", QUICKLY absorb, much of the moisture previously STORED on the evaporator vanes.
Passenger cabin Rh will now rise RAPIDLY...
Cold windshield due to COLD outside impinging airflow.
BLAM...!!
Your windshield is now suddenly so fogged over with condensate you have no forward vision.
"Educated guess" -- let's just say "guess."
How about if you open the car's windows or as a last resort, keep a towel handy?
Drive-by-wire is a must for precise response of traction and stability control, where power to the engine must be cut very quickly. In theory, it should also permit better fuel economy, but I think for the average driver, the improvement wouldn't be measurable.
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry LE. I am going on a long vacation and i would need to leave the car for around 45 days at a airport parking. Is it ok to leave the car for such a long time. Will it have any effects on the tires, batteries, engine etc?
Thanks,
Given the price of parking at most airports I've been to however, I would think you'd be better off getting a ride/cab/limo to and from the airport.....rather than paying 45 days of parking.
You asked this question last November and got 15 replies (including mine.)
Was there something we neglected to tell you?
How did it work out last time?
Mike