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Go to airsept.com and read about their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer.
Or Google for:
wwest "dirty gym socks"
Is this possibly part of how you normally run the a/c?
Any help deeply appreciated.
You don't have to go back to the selling dealer for warranty service -- try the local dealer, and while you're there, try test driving another Camry LE or XLE with same engine -- a 4-cylinder I assume? I'd expect the sport model (SE) to respond differently.
Mr WWEST, i read the article mentioned by you, but is it not an extra fitting for the air conditioning system?
Your problem results from the amount of moisture left in/on the A/C evaporator vanes after even a brief period of use. If you park the car inside at night it would probably be satisfactory to lower the windows slightly each and every night to let the moisture evaporate out of the cabin.
That procedure worked for my new '92 LS until I did a few modifications not unlike the EED.
That description is enough to want me to go spray chlorox on the air cabin filter!
As for using oil, makes no sense to me. You should not see any difference in oil comsuption. This oil, changed at 5,000 miles or no longer than 6 months would be an excellent choice.
Good luck with the new Camry.
In the first 4500 miles, we had FOUR wheel bearings replaced. Right front, left front, right front, right rear. All due to a growling noise and vibration. Four trips to two different dealers while on vacation 1500 miles from home. Three visits to a dealer for the same problem meets the lemon laws in our state.
Went through the arbitration with Toyota, turned down. Filed for a claim under our platinum level warranty for hotel rooms and expenses (since we were more than 150 miles from home) and got nothing. No Toyota rental car while the car was out of service for 9 days.
So we paid extra for platinum warranty that did not work, and now our car has a CarFax history and reduced value. Next step is a lemon law attorney.
This is the first bad wheel bearing problem I have heard about, so you must have bad luck!
alohatofu, "Extended Warranty - Toyota Extra Care" #1, 18 Sep 2007 10:50 pm
This is your call if you want to buy warranty or not. It should cost you around $500-600. Make sure that you buy only Toyota extra care warranty, no third party. Midwest Toyota in Kansas was the cheapest for me.
My issue about the extended warranty is that I'm not sure I even need it. Reality is that if I end up with a lemon I should know within the first 20,000 - with my driving, that is about 8 months. It's a bit of the case of betting it'll fail and betting it won't.
I haven't read much about any warranty issues.
6 cylinder - ???
In my experience and opinion, it is still better to invest the money (not in stocks!) and then use it if you have to for repairs. Chances are, you'll come out way ahead.
He said you should rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. Any feedback
If the car was a rear-wheel drive, the
wear might have been uniform.
With the Camry being front-wheel drive, the turning and
power tend to wear the front tires faster than the back.
You can probably get by with rotations every 10,000 miles.
Let's try it this way.
The system will go into re-circulation mode if:
1.) You push the recirulation button, or
2.) You turn the temperature knob all the way to the COLDEST position.
I personally change mine about 7500 miles, but I do this myself (and change the oil every 6 months, since my 2 Camrys usually hit the 6 months before going 5K miles).
My brand-new
I don't know why people like to use this statement. No one can take advantage of you if you stay on top of the issue.
Battery-you can tell the repair shop to look at it. If it's damaged, it will be replaced.
Screen-Again, you just need to tell the shop to fix it.
The adjuster cannot put in any damages in the quote if they cannot see it. That's why it's an "ESTIMATE". They can make a note but that's all they can do. It's your responsibility to make sure that you get everything fixed.
I dont know what a body shop would know about the your Hybrid Batteries, but each cell should charge at about the same rate. I believe a device on board called a BMS is the way the car knows when the batteries are charging correctly. But I would ask a separate electric car shop who knows about Hybrids to check out each cell for performance and problems with the cars batteries after everything is fixed.
Good luck
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Move over to the center knob, the one that adjusts the temperature. If you have that knob turned all the way counter-clockwise to the coldest 'max a/c' position.....it will turn the re-circulation ON.
I suspect you have the center temperature knob in the coldest position, which is turning on the recirculation every time you start the car.
My guess is that if the IAT, Interior Air Temperature, is higher than the OAT, Outside Air Temperature, when you turn on the system power via the ignition key, then the system is programmed by the factory to automatically go into recirculate mode.
IDIOTS.
My personal practice is to switch the system back into fresh mode, run the blower on HIGH to PURGE the hot air from the cabin. Use the A/C only if the interior temperature elevation warrants it. Only after the cabin atmosphere is cooled to or below OAT do I change the mode to recirculate to increase the A/C's cooling effectiveness. I try to not continue the use fresh or/and the A/C if the OAT is near or below my comfort level.
But never, NEVER, use recirculate when the dominant need is HEATING.
I think you might be missing a "fine" point of the operation of these systems.
Suppose you want to put the HVAC system, climate control, manual or automatic, in "neutral"..., no heat and no cooling..??
The only way I know to do that is to have it turned on and in MAX cooling and then switch it off. If you happen to switch it off while the reheat/remix door/vane is in some intermediate position it will remain there even after/when you switch the system OFF. Obviously that MAX cooling setting would also result in the system switching, automatically, to recirculate each and every time you start the car.
Before the beancounters intervened there used to be an engine coolant flow shutoff valve in line to the heater core. Now the valve no longer exists and so a reheat/remix vane door left in an intermediate position will result in heating and incoming FRESH airflow.
So the only option becomes: you must reach over and manually switch it back to fresh mode.
also when i run without the A/C when the outside air comes through automatically the smell is there.
Can anybody tell me if they have same problem???