Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Tundra Maintenance and Repair

capt2capt2 Posts: 57
I have a 2000 SR5 Ext cab 4wd with 83k miles. One o2 sensor changed under warranty and changed the front brakes to slotted rotors...other than that trouble free! Planning on the big 90k service and changing the timing belt (dealer says to also change the water pump??) and I see that a fuel filter change is not on the to-do list of the 90k. Where exactly is the fuel filter and should it be changed as pm? Thanks.


  • I change my oil outside the dealer and the light came on after 4500 miles I know there is a reset code through the radio, Dealer wants me to come in so they can charge me for it. What is the code?
  • tank5tank5 Posts: 10
    I called the service dept. as I didn't see the mileage for the fuel filter . The teck said that their was not to be changed! The pump is in the tank and no filter in the lines.

  • otto8otto8 Posts: 116
    Toyota Announces Safety Recall On Selected Tundra Pickup Trucks
    12/14/2007 Torrance, CA
    Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc., will launch a safety recall with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) on certain 2007 model year Tundra four-wheel-drive pickup trucks. The campaign will involve approximately 15,600 units in the U.S. and does not involve any accidents or injures.

    On certain 2007 model year Tundra vehicles, there is a possibility that a joint in the rear propeller shaft may have been improperly heat treated, resulting in insufficient hardness. In the worst case, a section of the rear propeller shaft may separate at the joint. There has been one case reported among all affected vehicles that may relate to this condition. The one case involved abnormal noise and did not involve an accident.
  • My 2008 Tunda CrewMax owners manual calls for a 5W-20W or 0W-20W oil only. This weight is a synthetic blend. I bought a service contract. I was inquiring at the dealer as to which weight was put in at the factory and the service tech said they only use standard 10W-30W at this dealership. I told him he is only putting in what the owners manual calls for and whats already in the engine,and he said they don't carry that oil and if thats the oil I wanted I would have to pay more for it since they only allow him so much money for the oil change service. Bull. I'm not done with them yet. Any input?
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 570
    Go by the manual. Don't let the dealer away with not installing the correct oil. Any dealer that uses the excuse that it costs him too much money to carry more than one grade of oil isn't much of a dealer. I had this occurrence with a Buick Park Avenue. The dealer was only using bulk oil and not of the grade the car required. They finally went to a Chevy dealer and bought 5 liters of the proper oil for the Buick. While I was waiting I watched the service staff put the same grade in everything that came through the door. Heavy duty diesel pickups as well.

    Dealers love to cut corners. Bulk oil in one grade only, is convenient and less expensive for the dealer. The customer suffers.
  • Hi!

    Our 2006 Tundra has had a serious issue with a squealing noise from the frontend--I believe it is coming from the fan. We've taken it to the dealer 3 times to have it fixed and each time they replace a "belt assembly", and it will fix the squeal noise for about 2 hours. This has basically been doing this since we have bought it, and I am getting frustrated with it--since each time we've taken it back to be fixed...NADA. This truck literally has 11,000 miles on it and we never tow with it at all. We do live in North Dakota, so it is extremely cold, but it makes this noise in the summer as well.

    Is anyone else having a really LOUD squeal coming from the front end, perhaps around the fan? :confuse:
  • An update from my initial post on the oil requirememts for the 2008 Tundra 5.7L engine. I contacted Toyota and was told 0W-20W synthetic oil was used at the factory and is the recommended oil. I will be taking the e-mails to the dealer. They also stated if petroleum based oil is used you can't go back to synthetic. Also the stated oil requirements are right on the oil filler cap. And the service manager never heard of that requirement? I pulled up the 2007 owners manual and the same oil requirements were listed. What have they been putting in the 2007 5.7L's that they serviced? Ummm.
  • rls3rls3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Tundra SR5. My keyless entry has stopped making the beep and beep/beep when I lock and unlock doors. The doors are locked and the lights flash. Is there a quick fix or could it be a fuse problem? Would like to get it working again. Thanks
  • lgdlgd Posts: 1
    The drive shaft came apart from rear axle on my 2008 Toyota Tundra 4 x 4 while driving 75 mph on interstate. Has anyone had this kind of problem?
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    Toyota told their customers for sometime that using synthetic oil is just a waste of money. Now they are filling their trucks with a very light synthetic oil !!! Unbelievable.
    10W30 synthetic is considered a light oil and I see no difference between it and 0W20. When it comes to synthetic oils, the difference is viscosity is not very important. Use anything less than 10W40 and you will be fine. For conventional oils, any thing less than 10W30 is fine as long as the temperature is not too hot. In hot regions, 10W40 or 20W50 is recommended. Light oils leave the engine clean over time and therefore, I highly recommend using fully synthetic oil. Any brand synthetic oil should serve better than the best brand conventional oil. Wal-Mart sells a cheap synthetic oil but it is so good. I use it and also I use Mobile 1 10W30 for two different cars.
  • How do you change the transmission fluid in a 2008 Tunda? What tools are needed? We need an answer ASAP, Please!
  • NEVER put 10w-40 or (gawd) 20W-50 in anything less than 25 years old!The oil clearences on newer engines are tighter than they ever were.Those oils are like molassis and can't get to moving parts fast enough.Plus,they kill your fuel milage.Put in what the OWNERS MANUAL,not the dealer,recommends.The dealer does not care about anything but the next dollar.I hate to even go in for warranty work.

    I've been an auto technician for 30 years.
  • If your truck is like my 2002,the fuel filter is under the truck on the drivers side along the fraim rail.I replace mine every 30000 miles.It's funny that Toyota has a service interval for adjusting the valves (I can see the average person buying an assortment of valve shims and taking there heads apart!) but they don't have one for the fuel filter.This filter doesn't look like anythong special so I can't understand why it wouldn't have to be replaced.The first time,I installed a Toyota filter,the second,a Purolator.They're easy to find.They're a little tricky to remove because Toyota didn't install a flexible line going to the filter,so there are 2 hard lines pressing tightly at both ends.I've found if you remove one of the lines from the plastic retainer,and, with a little muscle,you can angle the filter and release the lines.
  • Yes I think I might be having a similar problem. I was doing about 60 MPH on the Parkway with the cruise control on, and out of no where my vehicle started shaking, and I almost could not get it stopped. I had it towed into Toyota, they they have told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I can still drive it, but it will do this on and off now. I have noticed at 30 MPH that I have a constant vibration now. Mine is a 2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax Cab 4X4. I will be taking it back in soon to get them to look at it again. Can you please describe what happened to yours.
  • benwimpbenwimp Posts: 1
    To properly change the transmission fluid in any modern day automatic you need to use a transmission flush machine which hooks into the transmission cooler lines and flushes all old fluid out and replaces with new. You can go to the dealership for this service but can also have it done at an independent shop or quick lube for around $120. JUST MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE MAINTENCE INTERVALS.
  • my dad has this truck and has had a problem recently of the truck failing to accelerate, pushes the pedal, nothing happens. the truck just idols. if he stops and puts it in park, shuts off the engine, then restarts, the problem goes away. he thinks the cruise control might have something to do with it since everytime it has happened it has been after using the cruise. he took it to dealer a couple times for check engine light, first time they couldnt find anything wrong, problem with accelerator happened again. now they want to charge him $1300 bucks for a part and they have never heard of the problem, never sold the $1300 part. has anyone heard of or experienced this problem?
  • I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra Regular Cab and when ever I back out of a parking space and then put it into drive and start to drive - it almost immediately makes a single clunk noise underneath. I have taken it into the dealership twice - the first time they said they could not hear it but it got worse so I took it in again and they said that the noise was normal. Has anyone else heard a similar noise coming from under their Tundra? Is this truly normal? Thanks, harringtonway
  • I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Max with 10,000 miles on it, and when ever I back out of the driveway and shift into drive I hear the same noise that (HARRINGTONWAY) hears. A loud clunk. Just for your info I just got back from the dealer about 6 hours ago. They drove the truck and shifted in reverse and drive. They told me that they didnt hear any noise. I am not sure what to believe. But I can say that I didnt here any noise like this when I bought it. Not sure what to do. I was told by technician that the drive train on the Tundra is built with slack in it, to allow movement during hill or bumpy surface driving..Let me know if you here anything different. Thanks.
  • a8fana8fan Posts: 17
    I have a new 2008 5.7 offroad 4wd and I hear the clunk too.

    I think that there is some sort of built in governor due to the heavy tow payload which prevents it from peeling off when you step on the gas. The clunk is sort of a delay when putting it into gear.

    When is the first service due on a new truck? Mine are included but I can't find it in the literature.

    I have exactly 1700 miles on it now.
  • the door stop on my under warranty tundra broke dealer says not covered under warranty toyota says to treat the tundra tenderly and the door stop not covered per the dealer
  • the door stop on my under warranty 07 regular cab broke and they are not covering under warranty.

    initially i had a vibration at 15 and 25 mph and took it in said they replaced a transmission converter

    the drive train in general seems to be very temper mental on my 07 5.7l auto with occasional jerks, bangs, clunks, and generally crappy transmission of power to the ground
  • I am not pleased with what seems to be ocassional transmission clunking type noises in my 08. It seems like there is slippage inside the transmission, because sometimes the truck shifts very awkwardly. Toyota in El Paso TEXAS says nothing is wrong, as they drove it and found nothing(of course).. Dont know what to do. Any comments welcome.................
  • maybe this is intimidation from the dealer to you, and they are waiting to see if you take it to another level in terms of seeking just compensation, fixing the defective (plastic??)
  • a8fana8fan Posts: 17
    I own a 2008 Tundra 5.7 4WD double cab.

    I notice that sometimes I can't get it to accelerate. It either feels 'stuck' or it herky jerks forward.

    Another time, it popped out of D into N after some slippage on the ice.

    This is happening when I am messing with the 4hi-4lo stuff.

    Please advise if I am doing it right:

    My understanding is to go slowly ahead and turn to 4hi, but then to get to 4lo, I need to stop and put it on neutral.

    It also needs to be in 4hi first, before you can take it to 4lo which was not the case with my 2000.

    But this transmission thing is so weird.

    I have not gone back yet for the 5,000 service, only have less than 3,000 on it and have a 7 year paid warranty.

    PS - I need to keep it in 4hi at times just to get up and down my driveway... which never melts even if the street is dry. But I don't ever drive with it in 4W unless the roads are snowy.
  • xplor8xplor8 Posts: 1
    Did you get a fix for this? My 07 has now twice started to shimmy violently on the freeway at 70 mph. The incidents happend about a week apart with no warning. It is so intermittent that I doubt the service department could help...

    Anyone else have this problem? :confuse:
  • what is progress of toyota fixing the problem with your truck?
    it is within warranty? did you purchase with EL PASO, maybe you can list
    name of dealership so that others can be forewarned if they are not seeking
    corrective action. What do you Tow with your Truck

    have you had third party transmission shop examine the situation?

    what truck do you have? how many miles? I am considering purchasing
    toyota and would like to know more about this to make educated decision.

    whether or not to go ahead and complete sale. What other trucks would
    you purchase if you had other choices? what do you see EL PASO doing
    to make good on warranty?
  • what is happening with your 2007 Tundra, has dealership fixed this problem,
    provided plan A or plan B for resolution, what do you tow, how many miles what load? is yours 5.7L or smaller V8 4x4 or any other characteristics for identification,

    I am looking at purchasing Tundra and would like to know all the things to stay away from in the event there is problem, before purchase.

    what other trucks would suggest besides Toyota? If you were to purchase one today.

    Who is your dealership and what are they doing about fixing this problem with Tundra?
Sign In or Register to comment.