Question #130 were any answers posted? Have the same question (Consumer's Report reference to poor rating on '96 vs '97 4 Runner Engine). Also, any information on mileage on the 3.4 and any opinions on the 2.7 liter?
Toyota engines: If anyone thinks I am incorrect jump in.
The engines produced prior to 1996 had a recall on the head gaskets (V6 only). However Toyota will replace the head gasket free of charge up to 100,000 miles.
A few people on the message board had this done and regretted it but I know of a guy who has 184,000 miles on his and he had his done way back at 80,000 miles.
If you can afford a newer model then go for it and avoid this problem. I however am looking at a 95 4Runner w/ 84,000 miles. The recall work hasn't been done but the previous owner has had zero problems with it.
I have had the same "twang" problem with a 2001 SR-5 that I just bought 5 weeks ago. It bothers me, but since you're saying it's normal; I'll live with it. I'll go to the dealership and find out to confirm. Keep you guys posted.
I purchased a 1991 v6 4Runner, 94k miles, stick about 6 months ago. I really have enjoyed it but I have discovered a few issues that I am hoping someone out there can help with some advice:
-Locks - keys in the door locks do not turn smoothly, I have to move the key in the cylinder up and down to get to the 'right' spot before it will turn - has anyone had this issue and actually gotten Toyota to own up to it? I know a few others I have talked to have had the same issue with no action from Toyota.
-MPG - I am getting about 220 miles per tank of gas (approx 15mpg) with mixed highway, city driving. (Admittedly I do have a bit of a heavy foot) I keep tires inflated, added a K&N air filter to help on gas mileage, changed the plugs, distributor and plug wires when I got the car. I am not sure about the fuel filter. What type of mpg is typical for this vehicle? Any suggestions to improve would be greatly appreciated.
-Gears - shifting into first and second when it is a little cold in the morning is relatively tough, and has been getting harder to do....any ideas on how to make shifting easier?
I purchased a 2001 SR5 4WD 4Runner about a month back. From last week, I am getting a squealing sound when braking at low speeds and coming to a complete stop. The squealing becomes louder and annoying in a stop-and-go driving condition on snow covered roads during rush hour. Anyone having similar problems with a 2001 4Runner?
I have a 1999 Limited 4wd. It's my second 4Runner-- I has a 1997 SR5 4wd I/Sport pkg. (I miss that truck!) My problems have been relatively minor. I have had warped rotors on about 4 occasions (including my '97), all warrantied by the dealer. I honestly don't think there's anything wrong with the gas gauge-- I think the fuel light just comes on way too early-- I've never put more than 16 gallons in-- anyone ever actually run out of gas? I've always heard the "twang," and it's always bothered me, but I guess I' m just used to it. My '97 had Goodyears, and they were awful. My '99 had Dunlops and they were all right I replaced the tires on both trucks with Michelins, and I highly recommend it. As for rough rides, has anyone ever rode in an Explorer... the 4Runner is one of the smoothest riding SUV's on the market... if you want a smoother ride, buy a station wagon. My concern is with customer service at the dealership after the sale. It doesn't exist! Toyota has consistently awful customer service, and it's what I've come to expect. They build a great product, and they simply don't know what to do when somebody complains... it's almost as if they take offense. As for the regional service reps, they are insipid, conniving, lying, deceitful people whose only job is to cover Toyota's rear. Don't ever expect progress when dealing with one. I simply cannot believe this is the same division that is responsible for Lexus, which makes the bad customer service inexcusable, because they've proven they know how to deal with customers.
I bought a 4runner 2000 SR5 4WD last year. I noticed when the gas light on which means truck almost run out gas, I refilled it, and it was only about 13 gallons gas. 2000 4runner tank is supposed to be 18.5 gallons, I feel must be something wrong. I checked with dealer, they said it was normal. I heard lots about 2000 4runner has gas gauge problem, is my case happened to be the one? Or if anybody have any idea about it? Should I concern about this?
Yes, there have been numerous posts regarding the gas guage. See SUVs\Toyota 4Runner - Topic consolidation, posts 114 and 138 for my experiences getting it fixed. Mine was just a month old, and I got it done under warranty with no problems.
I have a 2000 SR5 4Runner and my drivers side mirror is warped. I've had it replaced 3 times with no success. It amazes me that the service dept actually gives it back to me each time and says that it's fixed. When I look an object in the distance I see two of them. I'm having a 'meeting' with the service manager this Saturday.
I have a 2000 SR5 4Runner and my drivers side mirror is warped. I've had it replaced 3 times with no success. It amazes me that the service dept actually gives it back to me each time and says that it's fixed. When I look an object in the distance I see two of them. I'm having a 'meeting' with the service manager this Saturday.
I recently upgraded the shocks\struts on my 2k SR5 to Bilsteins front\back. The origional rear shocks were very loose\bounty and the front struts very stiff, not the best combo for handling\ride. I first replaced the rear and was very impressed with the change, so I changed the front also. Well worth it, it rides and corners excellent now! And the ride height was unaffected. I choose Bilsteins because this is what TRD uses.
I noticed on the Edmund's page for 4runners (2000) that there are two designations, "4A" and "5M" for both four cylinder and the six cylinder models of R5's listed. Does anybody know what this means?
I own a 2000 SR5 which I purchased in June 2000. Recently I took this in to the dealer, they will replace the running boards, since it is an accessory. Are these items not rust proofed also? Can I force them to rust proof them and provide documentation that this has been completed?
I bought a 2001 SR5 4Runner and the salesman said not to use the differential lock when cornering or it will bind. This is because the wheels turn at the exact same time and this makes corner impossible. I was reading Edmund's and they say the differential lock was discontinued but mine has one. If you have this lock, make sure it's off before turning in 4 wheel drive.
I have a 1995 4-runner that I had to replace the radiator in. It has 48,000 miles on it and I have been told by many shops and Toyota that they had a problem with the top tank in the years 94 and 95 with the V-6. The Toyota dealer knows of the problem but told me it's out of war. and wants to sell me a radiator for $650. I then found that a after market shop is selling to the dealer and I bought the same radiator for $160. If you have one of these models... check your radiator before you have big problems. You will see little pin holes in the top tank.
We have loved our 92 4-runner and only experienced small problems. I had to replace the brushes in the rear window motor. I got lucky and found a used motor to tear apart otherwise toyota will only sell complete rear window assembly which was very expensive. One continuing problem has been a leaking sunroof. The dealership said to blow out the weep holes, but I cant find any. Anyone else had the problem and found a solution?
I purchased a used 1995 4Runner with 38,000 miles. I have had nothing but problems with it... Air flow box, fuel injectors, calipers, fuel line, exhaust system, presently this piece of carp is in the shop... it has major engine problems.. None of this stuff started until we took it in for the head gasket recall... ever since.. my son's battery operated jeep is more dependable than the 4 Runner. The only joy I will get from this Rig is when I take my Louisville slugger to it...
Hello all... I recently purchased a new Toyota 2001 4runner SR5. Pretty often when I release the brake pedal after a complete stop, I feel a bumping sensation from the back of the truck... kinda like somebody hit the truck from the rear. However, this problem has not occurred on the raining days. When I brought this issue to the dealer, they claimed the following: "bump condition from suspension and brakes unloading at end of stop." Could this be true?
Okay, everyone, I am BEGGING for a solution to the following problem:
1990 4-Runner - purchased new - I live in AZ, which is wonderful and provides opportunities to go running around in the desert in the summer and up into the mountains for skiing in the winter. Problem: When I go up into the cold weather, my 4-Runner makes the most horrendous noise imaginable, after being off for a few hours. It comes from the front wheel/wheels (from 1 or both). The first time it happened, 10 years ago, I actually stopped the car and looked under it as I thought I had hit one of the old, metal trash cans and it had become lodged under my car. It is so loud that people turn and look if they are walking on the sidewalk. Characteristics: happens in cool/cold weather, synchronizes to the turning of the wheels, can last for seconds or hours - on and off, does not matter which way I turn the car, can be started or stopped by hitting a pimple in the road after moving but will almost always occur after the car has slept overnight in cold weather, does not affect steering or braking. It NEVER occurs in the summer. Solutions: NOTHING!! Three dealers can find nothing. Brakes have been checked and checked and checked. No friction/hotspots found. Dealer offered to change out my axle, for $2000, but could not guarantee that it was the cause. I actually tape-recorded it to give to a repairman. After getting mad at the dealers, I took it to the independent repair place, which finally said, after trying to find a cause (and listening to the tape) that if it didn't affect the driving, don't worry about it. They could not find anything.
I can't believe that this is the only truck that would have this problem. Or is it???? Anybody???
I have a 2000 4Runner SR-5 w/ Sport Package - I've had no problems with the gas gauge, dash pad, brakes, alignment, etc as others have had in this forum... and I absolutely love the truck - but I do have one very irritating problem... one horrific squeak...
It sound as though it's coming from the driver's side rear passenger door. I've tried silicone lubricant to try to alleviate it, but it's still a prominent squeak. I need to sit in the back seat and let someone else drive it to see if I can diagnose exactly where the sound resides - hopefully the problem won't hide itself with the extra weight in the back.
Anyone else had similar problems?
I can also testify to comments about the Toyota dealer network - they sell fabulous cars, but they're not as friendly at servicing them; although with very few exceptions (Saturn, Lexus), keep in mind that nearly all dealers get defensive about making repairs - perhaps because the service areas are overwhelmed with a daily abundance of service orders and a shortage of trained service technicians. There's still no excuse for the poor service -- but I think it's a trend of high demand for service with an inability for the dealers to keep up with those demands honestly and thoroughly for each and every customer who walks in the door.
If I can just massacre the stupid squeak from an otherwise quiet SUV, I'll return to be a 'no complaints' 4Runner owner.
Sometimes noises are so elusive that you have to wait until something breaks...sound transmits throughout a car very easily, especially drivetrains.
I'm guessing that person A with the cold weather noise does indeed have an axle problem, but what can you do? You'll just have to wait until it gets worse. You can't fix a car from a tape recording--don't mechanics wish it were so!
Has anyone had the check transmission light come on? It comes on and then goes off for a week, then comes on again. We are faithful with servicing it at a Toyota shop. Otherwise, we bought the 4-Runner new and haven't had any problems with it (knock on wood). It has been everything we expected it to be. We have the powerful six and find that it goes just about anywhere. My husband takes it fishing and hiking in the mountains, and drives it to work every day with no problems at all.
I scanned through all of the messages and would like to add my experience with Toyota Repairs and Service. The problem may seem trivial, much like bubbles on the dash would to some. I thought after buying Toyota for 20 years, that I was buying quality. Not True. The 2001 4Runner (my wife's 5th 4runner)bought in Oct 2000 immediately began collecting lint, fuzz and God knows what on the material. We found that a vacuum cleaner would not remove it and only a roll of very sticky tape and several hours of hard work got he job done. The upholstery changes color depending on what you wear any given day. Contacted the dealership with 150 miles on the vehicle. Everyone at the dealership said "Not Good". Dealership was to contact the Regional Toyota Rep. After a month and 1/2, my wife ambushed him at the dealership. He took pictures, said he would report it. About a month later, she again trapped him at the dealership, he said nothing going on. Said if it really bothered her, she could always trade it off for something else, but of course we would take a $3-5000 loss. Finally offered to throw in $1000.00 if she wanted to trade it. Dealership busted butt trying to get something done, no avail. (Yes, this is a good dealership)Finally after almost 5 months of Mr. CUSTOMER SERVICE doing nothing, we asked for arbitration. As has been said in prior messages, they were offended. Withdrew their offer of $1000.00(Like two year old's). Arbitration is a joke. Wasted half a day to find out what the Arbitrator already knew before he got there. The upholstery problem does not significantly affect the value, safety or operation of the vehicle. I disagree on it affecting value. But I am sure I'm not going to prevail on that point. Lesson for all. You must know your State Lemon Law before you go to arbitration. You need to have as many service tickets as you can get on the problem. Return the vehicle immediately, if it still does the same thing. Do not let them tell you no, pitch a fit at the customer service counter, the showroom or where ever. Record every action you take, when, where, with who, and what you discussed. The comments on the character of the Regional Toyota Parts and Service Managers in the previous messages are probably the nicest things that has ever been said about them. Remember that. Toyota's formal position is "this is a normal characteristic of the fabric" in my case. Ah...Toyota's idea of value added. Any one else having this problem? Contact me, we may not be out of the fight yet!
for about $800.00 + u can have aftermarket leather install should solve that problem, better that loose 3-5k on a trade in if theres no problem with the vehicle, good luck.
mmakar, I had a 1990 SR-5, 4x4 pickup with the same loud noise coming from the front end. I live in Indiana and whenever the hemp got below about 20 degrees the front end would growl in direct relationship to the speed of the wheels. I was told that they put brass bushings in the hubs where needle bearings were previously used. The service department pulled the wheels and greased the bushings and the problem went away... until next winter. They told me I would just have to grease the bushings occasionally. In other words, every winter they would pull the wheels and grease the bushings for about $150. I found this unacceptable and called Toyota and they authorized replacing the brass bushings with needle bearings. This was in 1992, so my truck was still under warranty, but I kept the truck until 1999 and never heard that loud, embarrassing noise again. You might want to check into this.
I owned a '92 4Runner for 8 years. I experienced the same rear-end sag in mine that some of you are asking about. I believe it is caused by the fairly soft factory rear coil springs suffering from fatigue and losing some ride height. I called around to a couple off-road shops. They were $240-$375 for stock ride height to 2" lifted springs. I finally discovered TRW offers a replacement rear spring set that restored my ride height AND were a progressive rate spring! Here's the best news... They were $80!!!! That's right.. a pair! I installed them myself in 35-40 minutes in my driveway with no special tools. *NOTE* Disconnect the bottom shock bolt AND the rear sway bar! I tried to leave the sway bar end bolted up and fought it needlessly for several minutes. I hope this helps some of you.
Saw your message about the fabric seats. I have a 2000 4 Runner with the fabric and yes, they are a magnet for about anything. I rented a 2001 4 Runner (1,500 miles on it) in Vegas 3 days ago and it had the same problem...fabric was different but it was covered in lint and so forth. I don't think it detracts from the value but it is sure annoying. I use a lint brush every few days to keep it clean.
I've considered the leather as well and if DL7265 can pass on the information about where to locate the leather package he/she mentioned that would be great. That appears to be the best route as you just take it in the shorts on trading in/selling it so close to having purchased it. But do I think Toyota could do better, yep!
I have 2000 4-Runner with the V6/Auto. On mornings when I make a short trip (3 to 5) and stop I hear a clicking noise from engine when I'm sitting a light or moving a low engine RPM's. After the car has been driven for about 10 to 15 minutes it goes away. I've also let the car warm up (as opposed to starting and going) for about 3 to 5 minutes and this has no effect.
I wanted to know if anyone else had this problem and if so has found a remedy. Thanks!
I owned a '92 4Runner for 8 years. I experienced the same rear-end sag in mine that some of you are asking about. I believe it is caused by the fairly soft factory rear coil springs suffering from fatigue and losing some ride height. I called around to a couple off-road shops. They were $240-$375 for stock ride height to 2" lifted springs. I finally discovered TRW offers a replacement rear spring set that restored my ride height AND were a progressive rate spring! Here's the best news... They were $80!!!! That's right.. a pair! I installed them myself in 35-40 minutes in my driveway with no special tools. *NOTE* Disconnect the bottom shock bolt AND the rear sway bar! I tried to leave the sway bar end bolted up and fought it needlessly for several minutes. I hope this helps some of you.
I am experiencing steering wheel vibration when braking over 40 mph, especially down hill. Also, I am hearing a low noise between 60-65 mph on the highway & when passing. I have to increase the radio volume in order to hear the radio. I recently had the drive shaft replaced. I was reading that for 97' model year, this might be normal for the v6 engine to make this kind of noise. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you.
I basically was giving an average cost from some local trim shops, of those i looked at the work and leather quality was better than most manufactures, and used by dealers in the area as well. Just look up in your local area, of course word of mouth is best and id want to see their work first. Thought it might be a good alternative to tradin in.I personally have leather in my cars even in the 115f summer's in Texas i still prefer it.
I recently took my 97 SR5 4WD Toyota 4Runner (80K)into the dealer for the same problem - "unloading at end of stop". The mechanic said he was surprised I had just begun experiencing that sensation as it was characteristic of 4Runners. He did say there was nothing wrong with the vehicle but he noticed the rear end was a little dry so he greased that while he had it on the rack. No charge. Well to my surprise, I no longer have the "problem!" Apparently for me, the grease solved it.
Need some help in buying a Forerunner. The 4runner I am looking at is 1997 - SR5, power windows, power roof. But the only problem is the mileage. The mileage is 76,324. I was trying to find out from experienced people if this was a good buy at $16500 + tax, tag and title adding upto to $18100. Please advise A SAP as I will have to make a decision by tomorrow. I am getting it from a dealership in Florida.
Hi....run this car through the Edmunds True Market Value feature....just click on "used" at the top of this page. Price seems fair enough but of course I haven't seen the actual car.
I have a '96 4Runner SR5 (85K) and have experienced the dramatic sudden bang on a cold fall/winter day on startup. Sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't, it's inconsistent. I bought the 4Runner new with only 24 miles. The first time I noticed the problem (@76K) was this past October. My extended warranty just ran out at 75K. It figures. The car was parked at an airport in CT for 3 days. It was the first cold snap of the season. I put the car in reverse to back out of the parking spot without a problem. When I shifted the car in Drive, there was a significant delay. I couldn't believe that the car didn't want to engage in Drive. When I gave it some gas, it felt as though the 4Runner was being rear-ended. I took it to my Toyota Service which, in the past, I have not felt as though I have been receiving the run around (unlike many of the stories here). They checked it out and looked at the transmission, fluids etc. No abnormal wear so they couldn't figure it out. I left the car with them for the next morning (i.e. cold start). Unfortunately, it was a warm morning... no problems were experienced. When I picked it up that day... after sitting all day... it happened again. I told the Service Manager right then and there. He test drove it and experienced the same thing. He suggested that the bearings might be leaking and mucking up the brakes. He suggested that I have them re packed. I personally think it is a trans problem. It never occurs in Reverse. If we get enough complaints we might just be able to get some sort of action/recall from Toyota.
I posted this a couple weeks ago on the SUV - 4Runner board with very little response. Maybe one of the readers here has some ideas, Thanks:
My '97 SR5 Manual 4wd developed an odd hesitation problem at about 58k miles. The hesitation is not on acceleration, but rather exhibits itself as a single brief "miss" resulting in a pronounced jolt at the point in time when I transition from acceleration to maintaining speed. For instance when accel from a stop to 45 mph, just as I reach 45 and feather off the throttle to maintain that speed I will experience a significant jolt as the ignition or fuel delivery seems to stop momentarily. The service mgr suggested it should have the 60k service and tune-up and that would probably fix the problem. It didn't. I drove it through the winter with this problem happening about 20-30% of the time I first transition to cruising speed from a start. I took it back for the dealer to look at again, and of course he reports "problem could not be duplicated." I asked if there was not some diagnostic they could run and was told their diagnostics would not find anything that did not cause a check engine light. Any one have any ideas. A few observations: It started as the temperatures in PA started dropping below freezing overnight, and is always more noticeable in the cold morning than the warmer afternoon. This same start time is approximately when the good PA EPA force feed the county's around here Oxygenated gas that a) costs 10% more, and b) delivers about 10% worse gas mileage (the combination is a real pain).
The dealer has been pleasant enough in conversation about this, but I didn't buy conversation, and I'm not appeased by their recommendation that I bring it in again and again. I don't think dealers appreciate what a pain it is for a person with an actual job to schedule a substitute ride to work along with a two way shuttle to and from the dealer twice in one day. Sorry for the long post, all ideas appreciated, Jere
Hi all - I bought a 2001 SR5 4WD in December and was considering the Limited but that $4500 premium for what accounted to plastic fender flares (held on with plastic clips no less), body-colored bumpers (GREAT for attracting ugly black dings) and heated leather seats (plus a maginally better stereo) killed that idea. The dealer showed us a truck that had been converted to leather through their (Capitol Toyo in San Jose, CA) aftermarket upholstery company and actually recommended *against* paying the premium for the Limited. After inspecting the OEM and aftermarket leather, the aftermarket version proved to be of a higher-quality grain, was thicker and more supple. Plus, the full-leather installation runs only $1500. Add $300 for heating if you want it. So we bought the cloth version (HELLO lint roller!). As we buy our SUVs and expect them to last a decade we'll wait for our cloth seats (and clothing, probably) to wear out and then add a new interior to the truck. Small price to pay for a 'refreshed' version of a great SUV.
My question: our driver's side exterior mirror doesn't heat. The passenger side does. Is this normal or should they both be heating???
Am fairly disappointed with the stock stereo(s) in the 2001 4runner model line. I've lived with it for 4 months now and though I like the head unit and the highs on the a-pillars, the system has really muddy midrange and absolutely NO bass, unless it's adjusted all the way up and then the distortion is amazing.
Does anyone have a suggestion to remedy this?
My first instinct would be to replace the mids and add a sub to the cargo area. I don't know if there's an exisiting amp outside of the head unit or not but based on the power and signal the OEM system puts out I wouldn't think so, so an amp might be in order too?
I need advice as to how to go about fixing this w/o jumping into an all-new system right off the bat. If the head unit has a sub outlet does it make sense to get a powered sub and let the head drive mids and highs? If I add an amp and indeed the OEM amp is on the head unit can it be bypassed to a cleaner-sounding amp? Is the crappy sound caused by non-amp electronics in the head unit?
It might be obvious that I know nothing at this point...
Understand that I don't listen to thump and that I don't listen at excessive volume levels. Instead I prefer rock, classical, blues and other assorted music that *doesn't* require strong bass, but I enjoy *clean*-sounding music and this system sounds like it's been packaged, boxed and dropped into a pond.
I recently purchased a '95 4-Runner with manual transmission and had to have the Clutch replaced about 2 weeks ago as the throwout bearing was groaning. It was also occasionally popping out of first gear. I assumed that the new clutch would fix the problem of popping out of gear. It didn't. Now there is also a very fast pinging noise that goes away when I depress the clutch. I really like the truck, but it is turning into a love-hate relationship when ever the first gear pops out, especially when I am making a left-hand turn. When I had the 60,000 mile checkup, my mechanic adjusted the idle to factory specs and now it has a tendency to stall, (even with that little anti-stall device on the idle) after it has been running for about 15 minutes. This lasts maybe 2-3 minutes and then it goes back to normal idle speed. Any ideas? I have been driving sticks for 25 years and have never had this much problem with a clutch.
Dan, What exactly did your mechanic grease in the rear end ? I also have this intermittent bump when I start to roll after a stop with my 2001 SR5. Thanks
Okay ...now I'm convinced I purchased the right SUV. Yes I have also noticed lint on my new 2001 SR5 fabric seats but if that is all people have to complain about with these Toyota's then keep the vacuum handy and smile knowing you did not buy something like a Mazda Tribute /Ford Escape ! Countless recalls and problems stem to stern.
I have a choice of purchasing a new 2001 4Runner and only paying half due to graduating college and help from my family, or I can wait until next year and try to get through the summer drving my dad's old Buick Regal until the 2002 models come out. Are they going to be worth it? I know GMC, CHevy, Dodge, etc are advertising models for 2002 through 2005 now, but it seems as if Toyota doesn't want anyoen to know their plans. What to do what to do? I love the new Thunder cloud color but I don't want a 4Runner due to the lack of pulling power and horsepower that some other SUVs have. Jesus, GMC, Chevy and OLds are getting 270 horsepower and Nissan 245 and 255, but Toyota only 185 I think. It seems someone is behind. Has anyone heard about the Supra replacement, the 4000GT? I want some info guys and can anyone help me out here? Please.
There is more to drive train performance than the single number indicating horsepower. For example, though the Pathfinders are rated at 240 up, they don't reach that number until reline. Unless you wind out the engine to that point each time you accelerate, you're not getting it all. The 4Runners reach peak horsepower below reline.
Another thing to consider is how horsepower is applied. The numbers you see are flywheel horsepower. It still has to go through the drive train to the wheels. I think the 4Runners are as smooth as anything I drove, certainly more so than the Cherokee with the 190 up engine. As for the behemoths that Chewy, Old and the others are putting out, those huge engines are going into much heavier vehicles. One way to compare apples to apples is to divide the vehicle's curb weight by the horsepower of the engine. That gives you pounds per horsepower, a measure of how much weight each horsey needs to haul. You'll find that the 4Runner is one of the lightest, which explains why it manages to accelerate as well as, or better than, the Chewy Blazer and Jeep Cherokee, both of which have more horsepower. As for a TRY supercharger, yup, that'll give you more power. You'll also have to run higher octane fuel due to the higher compression. I wouldn't be surprised if Toyota were to put the variable valve timing technology into the next 4Runner, something they already are using in their cars. That's how the Pathfinder gets more horsepower out of an engine that's a hair smaller than the 4Runner's. I'll lay odds that because those Pathfinder engines are tuned more like a sporty car's, they won't last as long in a truck.
And as mmcbride1 pointed out, it's a truck. If you want a sports car with 4wd, or a people hauler than can occasionally go off road, there are lots of alternatives. I've seen lots of people [non-permissible content removed] about 4Runners on these bulletin boards because they really bought the wrong vehicle for them. It's a very solid 4wd truck. It's not a minivan, so don't expect it to ride like one. It's meant to be maneuverable on a jeep trail, so don't expect it to be wide or hold 18 kids. It's meant to roll over rocks, so don't be surprised if it's a big step up to get into it. In fact Toyota, recognizing the actual use most people put SUVs to, came out with the Sequoia, an SUV based on a car chassis (with a bigger engine).
I live in Colorado, where altitude significantly reduces horsepower over the rated number. Yet I can load up three passengers, and all their ski gear, and head up I-70 to the Eisenhower Tunnel, doing the speed limit all the way (at least when traffic allows), and faster if I want. The tunnel's at over 10,000 feet. Yes, it's breathing a little hard when I get there, but I still get there plenty fast. A friend of mine rolled his 4Runner over a BIG rock, badly enough to cause damage. But between the skid plates, and the heavy duty design, he was able to drive home no problem. No fluids leaking, no broken suspension members. The point (which I fear I've much belabored) is that the 4Runner does very well the things it was designed to do.
Try driving a isuzu rodeo nobody makes a smoother engine than the 3.2 and it develops peak hp AND torque at 3000 RPMS which comes out to be 205hp 225torque I had a 96 T100 with the 3.4 which is the same as the 4runner/tacoma it was loud and rough during acceleration. that inline six in the GMC's are Isuzu engines and 270hp seems like a bunch of ponys to bad they recalled EVERYONE because of the steering idlerarm weld breaking so I haven't be able to drive one yet. I have a mitsubishi now.
I have experienced the 'bump' a few moments after coming to a complete stop in my 2000 SR-5. I finally figured out that it is only occurring (I believe) when the A/C is on. I'm guessing that the A/C kicking in is causing it.
One thing to note is that in 2000 and newer models, the *defogger* also invokes the A/C in order to clear the windows faster. I used to do this manually back in the old days, and apparently Toyota caught on. However, I noticed (finally!) that this is also causing much lower mileage. I used to leave the front defrost mode on a lot, and noticed over time that it reduced my trip mileage quite extensively (like 20-30 miles per tank).
Comments
The engines produced prior to 1996 had a recall on the head gaskets (V6 only). However Toyota will replace the head gasket free of charge up to 100,000 miles.
A few people on the message board had this done and regretted it but I know of a guy who has 184,000 miles on his and he had his done way back at 80,000 miles.
If you can afford a newer model then go for it and avoid this problem. I however am looking at a 95 4Runner w/ 84,000 miles. The recall work hasn't been done but the previous owner has had zero problems with it.
-Locks - keys in the door locks do not turn smoothly, I have to move the key in the cylinder up and down to get to the 'right' spot before it will turn - has anyone had this issue and actually gotten Toyota to own up to it? I know a few others I have talked to have had the same issue with no action from Toyota.
-MPG - I am getting about 220 miles per tank of gas (approx 15mpg) with mixed highway, city driving. (Admittedly I do have a bit of a heavy foot) I keep tires inflated, added a K&N air filter to help on gas mileage, changed the plugs, distributor and plug wires when I got the car. I am not sure about the fuel filter. What type of mpg is typical for this vehicle? Any suggestions to improve would be greatly appreciated.
-Gears - shifting into first and second when it is a little cold in the morning is relatively tough, and has been getting harder to do....any ideas on how to make shifting easier?
I found the same complaint on:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy1.cfm
but there doesn't seem to be any real resolution for the problem. Has anyone else here encountered this?
I found the same complaint on:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy1.cfm
but there doesn't seem to be any real resolution for the problem. Has anyone else here encountered this?
I choose Bilsteins because this is what TRD uses.
I recently purchased a new Toyota 2001 4runner SR5. Pretty often when I release the brake pedal after a complete stop, I feel a bumping sensation from the back of the truck... kinda like somebody hit the truck from the rear. However, this problem has not occurred on the raining days. When I brought this issue to the dealer, they claimed the following: "bump condition from suspension and brakes unloading at end of stop." Could this be true?
Thanks in advance.
1990 4-Runner - purchased new - I live in AZ, which is wonderful and provides opportunities to go running around in the desert in the summer and up into the mountains for skiing in the winter. Problem: When I go up into the cold weather, my 4-Runner makes the most horrendous noise imaginable, after being off for a few hours. It comes from the front wheel/wheels (from 1 or both). The first time it happened, 10 years ago, I actually stopped the car and looked under it as I thought I had hit one of the old, metal trash cans and it had become lodged under my car. It is so loud that people turn and look if they are walking on the sidewalk. Characteristics: happens in cool/cold weather, synchronizes to the turning of the wheels, can last for seconds or hours - on and off, does not matter which way I turn the car, can be started or stopped by hitting a pimple in the road after moving but will almost always occur after the car has slept overnight in cold weather, does not affect steering or braking. It NEVER occurs in the summer. Solutions: NOTHING!! Three dealers can find nothing. Brakes have been checked and checked and checked. No friction/hotspots found. Dealer offered to change out my axle, for $2000, but could not guarantee that it was the cause. I actually tape-recorded it to give to a repairman. After getting mad at the dealers, I took it to the independent repair place, which finally said, after trying to find a cause (and listening to the tape) that if it didn't affect the driving, don't worry about it. They could not find anything.
I can't believe that this is the only truck that would have this problem. Or is it???? Anybody???
It sound as though it's coming from the driver's side rear passenger door. I've tried silicone lubricant to try to alleviate it, but it's still a prominent squeak. I need to sit in the back seat and let someone else drive it to see if I can diagnose exactly where the sound resides - hopefully the problem won't hide itself with the extra weight in the back.
Anyone else had similar problems?
I can also testify to comments about the Toyota dealer network - they sell fabulous cars, but they're not as friendly at servicing them; although with very few exceptions (Saturn, Lexus), keep in mind that nearly all dealers get defensive about making repairs - perhaps because the service areas are overwhelmed with a daily abundance of service orders and a shortage of trained service technicians. There's still no excuse for the poor service -- but I think it's a trend of high demand for service with an inability for the dealers to keep up with those demands honestly and thoroughly for each and every customer who walks in the door.
If I can just massacre the stupid squeak from an otherwise quiet SUV, I'll return to be a 'no complaints' 4Runner owner.
I'm guessing that person A with the cold weather noise does indeed have an axle problem, but what can you do? You'll just have to wait until it gets worse. You can't fix a car from a tape recording--don't mechanics wish it were so!
Toyota's formal position is "this is a normal characteristic of the fabric" in my case. Ah...Toyota's idea of value added. Any one else having this problem? Contact me, we may not be out of the fight yet!
I had a 1990 SR-5, 4x4 pickup with the same loud noise coming from the front end. I live in Indiana and whenever the hemp got below about 20 degrees the front end would growl in direct relationship to the speed of the wheels. I was told that they put brass bushings in the hubs where needle bearings were previously used. The service department pulled the wheels and greased the bushings and the problem went away... until next winter. They told me I would just have to grease the bushings occasionally. In other words, every winter they would pull the wheels and grease the bushings for about $150. I found this unacceptable and called Toyota and they authorized replacing the brass bushings with needle bearings. This was in 1992, so my truck was still under warranty, but I kept the truck until 1999 and never heard that loud, embarrassing noise again. You might want to check into this.
I installed them myself in 35-40 minutes in my driveway with no special tools.
*NOTE* Disconnect the bottom shock bolt AND the rear sway bar! I tried to leave the sway bar end bolted up and fought it needlessly for several minutes.
I hope this helps some of you.
I've considered the leather as well and if DL7265 can pass on the information about where to locate the leather package he/she mentioned that would be great. That appears to be the best route as you just take it in the shorts on trading in/selling it so close to having purchased it. But do I think Toyota could do better, yep!
I wanted to know if anyone else had this problem and if so has found a remedy. Thanks!
I installed them myself in 35-40 minutes in my driveway with no special tools.
*NOTE* Disconnect the bottom shock bolt AND the rear sway bar! I tried to leave the sway bar end bolted up and fought it needlessly for several minutes.
I hope this helps some of you.
Also, I am hearing a low noise between 60-65 mph on the highway & when passing. I have to increase the radio volume in order to hear the radio. I recently had the drive shaft replaced. I was reading that for 97' model year, this might be normal for the v6 engine to make this kind of noise. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you.
Regards, DL
Please advise A SAP as I will have to make a decision by tomorrow. I am getting it from a dealership in Florida.
My '97 SR5 Manual 4wd developed an odd hesitation problem at about 58k miles. The hesitation is not on acceleration, but rather exhibits itself as a single brief "miss" resulting in a pronounced jolt at the point in time when I transition from acceleration to maintaining speed. For instance when accel from a stop to 45 mph, just as I reach 45 and feather off the throttle to maintain that speed I will experience a significant jolt as the ignition or fuel delivery seems to stop momentarily.
The service mgr suggested it should have the 60k service and tune-up and that would probably fix the problem. It didn't. I drove it through the winter with this problem happening about 20-30% of the time I first transition to cruising speed from a start. I took it back for the dealer to look at again, and of course he reports "problem could not be duplicated." I asked if there was not some diagnostic they could run and was told their diagnostics would not find anything that did not cause a check engine light. Any one have any ideas. A few observations:
It started as the temperatures in PA started dropping below freezing overnight, and is always more noticeable in the cold morning than the warmer afternoon.
This same start time is approximately when the good PA EPA force feed the county's around here Oxygenated gas that a) costs 10% more, and b) delivers about 10% worse gas mileage (the combination is a real pain).
The dealer has been pleasant enough in conversation about this, but I didn't buy conversation, and I'm not appeased by their recommendation that I bring it in again and again. I don't think dealers appreciate what a pain it is for a person with an actual job to schedule a substitute ride to work along with a two way shuttle to and from the dealer twice in one day.
Sorry for the long post, all ideas appreciated,
Jere
My question: our driver's side exterior mirror doesn't heat. The passenger side does. Is this normal or should they both be heating???
Does anyone have a suggestion to remedy this?
My first instinct would be to replace the mids and add a sub to the cargo area. I don't know if there's an exisiting amp outside of the head unit or not but based on the power and signal the OEM system puts out I wouldn't think so, so an amp might be in order too?
I need advice as to how to go about fixing this w/o jumping into an all-new system right off the bat. If the head unit has a sub outlet does it make sense to get a powered sub and let the head drive mids and highs? If I add an amp and indeed the OEM amp is on the head unit can it be bypassed to a cleaner-sounding amp? Is the crappy sound caused by non-amp electronics in the head unit?
It might be obvious that I know nothing at this point...
Understand that I don't listen to thump and that I don't listen at excessive volume levels. Instead I prefer rock, classical, blues and other assorted music that *doesn't* require strong bass, but I enjoy *clean*-sounding music and this system sounds like it's been packaged, boxed and dropped into a pond.
Appreciate responses.
When I had the 60,000 mile checkup, my mechanic adjusted the idle to factory specs and now it has a tendency to stall, (even with that little anti-stall device on the idle) after it has been running for about 15 minutes. This lasts maybe 2-3 minutes and then it goes back to normal idle speed. Any ideas? I have been driving sticks for 25 years and have never had this much problem with a clutch.
What exactly did your mechanic grease in the rear end ? I also have this intermittent bump when I start to roll after a stop with my 2001 SR5.
Thanks
Another thing to consider is how horsepower is applied. The numbers you see are flywheel horsepower. It still has to go through the drive train to the wheels. I think the 4Runners are as smooth as anything I drove, certainly more so than the Cherokee with the 190 up engine. As for the behemoths that Chewy, Old and the others are putting out, those huge engines are going into much heavier vehicles. One way to compare apples to apples is to divide the vehicle's curb weight by the horsepower of the engine. That gives you pounds per horsepower, a measure of how much weight each horsey needs to haul. You'll find that the 4Runner is one of the lightest, which explains why it manages to accelerate as well as, or better than, the Chewy Blazer and Jeep Cherokee, both of which have more horsepower. As for a TRY supercharger, yup, that'll give you more power. You'll also have to run higher octane fuel due to the higher compression. I wouldn't be surprised if Toyota were to put the variable valve timing technology into the next 4Runner, something they already are using in their cars. That's how the Pathfinder gets more horsepower out of an engine that's a hair smaller than the 4Runner's. I'll lay odds that because those Pathfinder engines are tuned more like a sporty car's, they won't last as long in a truck.
And as mmcbride1 pointed out, it's a truck. If you want a sports car with 4wd, or a people hauler than can occasionally go off road, there are lots of alternatives. I've seen lots of people [non-permissible content removed] about 4Runners on these bulletin boards because they really bought the wrong vehicle for them. It's a very solid 4wd truck. It's not a minivan, so don't expect it to ride like one. It's meant to be maneuverable on a jeep trail, so don't expect it to be wide or hold 18 kids. It's meant to roll over rocks, so don't be surprised if it's a big step up to get into it. In fact Toyota, recognizing the actual use most people put SUVs to, came out with the Sequoia, an SUV based on a car chassis (with a bigger engine).
I live in Colorado, where altitude significantly reduces horsepower over the rated number. Yet I can load up three passengers, and all their ski gear, and head up I-70 to the Eisenhower Tunnel, doing the speed limit all the way (at least when traffic allows), and faster if I want. The tunnel's at over 10,000 feet. Yes, it's breathing a little hard when I get there, but I still get there plenty fast. A friend of mine rolled his 4Runner over a BIG rock, badly enough to cause damage. But between the skid plates, and the heavy duty design, he was able to drive home no problem. No fluids leaking, no broken suspension members. The point (which I fear I've much belabored) is that the 4Runner does very well the things it was designed to do.
Rant over.
up = hp
Chewy = Chevy
Old = Olds
TRY = TRD
Sorry
One thing to note is that in 2000 and newer models, the *defogger* also invokes the A/C in order to clear the windows faster. I used to do this manually back in the old days, and apparently Toyota caught on. However, I noticed (finally!) that this is also causing much lower mileage. I used to leave the front defrost mode on a lot, and noticed over time that it reduced my trip mileage quite extensively (like 20-30 miles per tank).