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Comments
Happy New Year everyone and if you are out tonight, please use either common sense or a designated driver. We're safe at our house since the party is here but it's still something to be aware of.
My limited experience with this problem on a prior car (91 tbird) surging going up hills was directly related to the plugs needing replacement. However, I'm wondering if it's a different issue since my car only has 52k miles and the plugs supposively last alot longer.
thanks for the input regarding the plugs/wires as the likely culprit. I'll have it checked out soon.
Have no problem replacing plugs and or wires 'early' if need be.
Ken
If the drain out of the evaporator coil is plugged, the condensate off of the coil has to go somewhere and that somewhere may well be the interior of the car. You could try running the A/C if the weather is warm enough and see if you observe any water on the ground and where it is coming from.
One dealer when I first bought it suggested that maybe the window had been replaced and if not properly installed, can lead to wind moan. They tried putting some extra front sealent around the edges but that didn't help much.
Anyone else have any thoughts?
Thanks.
Bonneville, however- i also have a 91 Buick Skylark- when the temp really gets cold- well below freezing- around -0 to 5 above etc, the car will whine and whine etc- i have to change the Spark Plugs- if a plug is fouled-the car will not start- its worth a shot looking into- cheaper than replacing the fuel pump etc! once i replace the plugs the car is ok.
Good Luck!!!!
Regards
Chuck
Just curious, anyone know why manual would exclude any referecne to fuel filter changes? I assume there is one. ?? (I know, dumb question).
reinversment for bad intake manifolds (96 Bonny)
GM say's Sorry, S.O.L. .I wonder if GMAC would
like to repo. How about a class action lawsuit?
How many 3.8"s seized because of this problem?
What can we do? Just grin and bare it.....
May be this could be a safety problem the Feds
could handle. Any idea's????
My 2000 Bonnie seems to be much thirstier lately. Any tips on what to do/check to see why the sudden change? I've already checked the air filter and it is clean. What about injector cleaning? Any tips would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Stan
Good luck
Due to VERY POOR design the EGR burns thru the
plastic intake allowing coolent to leak into motor. Evenually ALL 95-98 GM 3.8 engines will
have this problem. The replacement intake is the
same as orginal with no changes to fix problem.
GM should sell these for just the cost of the
plastic. Right now the best bet is to contact
NHSTA (1-88-dash-2-dot) & let them determine
if stalling & seizing engines are a safety problem. P.S. GM knew about this problem in
oct 1997 per service bulletin.
Ken
The wiffs 97 had the same problem, after much head scratching on everyones part a test of the alternator and the plug wires were found to be the problem. The alternator wasn't putting out enough juice causing the computer to under go a brown out so to speak. The plug wires were dried out and cracking and stray voltage was present. Changed them both and now no problems. She travels a lot and any 'little' thing and I hear about it and have to take it to the dealer to get fixed under the extended warranty. Best money I ever spent. Now she's talking about another one.
I also have a gas gauge problem, where the gauge remains at full until the tank is almost empty then it falls to the E.
Any Ideas?
Tom
Ken
Funny enough, I had to have the steering wheel cable replaced today, as my horn only worked intermitently. I didn't like the idea of not being able to alert someone if they're changing lanes or backing into me. Call me paranoid.
John B.
The belt i can purchase from GMparts direct.com for around $17.00- my local mechanic wants around $100.00 to install and pay for a new belt.-He said it might take about 1 hour of labor to install.
Whats the best way to go with this?
Thanks,
Chuck
Ah, of course, it got few points in the subjective aspects...
:^P
This morning I drove and the Bonneville rode smooth and quietly over those same roads.
I'm wondering how an SSEi or SLE would compare.
Ken
Time will tell. Thanks for any info on this topic...sxb
I finally got the wires changed as you suggested.
This solved the problem completely.
Great Tip!
YOu'd think they would last longer.
I think it's criminal to use a plastic manifold and not take any responsibility when they all fail!
Any feedback is welcomed.
Thanks- ED K
rough idle, poor acceleration.
I change the plugs and it got somewhat better.
the old plugs very dry and some of them looks as
though they are starting to melt.
there is no problem starting the engine.
I am trying to gain access to the engine codes.
I have a manual on engine codes, it tells me to look for a 12 pin connector. My car has a 16 pin connector. can anyone help me gain access to the engine codes
The very next day I took the car to the Pontiac dealership, the same place where the oil was changed less than 30 days ago. $430 later and the prognosis was that we needed a new engine because of premature "bearing" wear. Evidence of this was in the sump pan (a fair amount of metal shavings, probably not to much, but enough to see that something is wearing prematurely within the engine). Their advice: New or rebuilt engine. Roughly 2 - 4K, depending on source of engine.
So, since the pontiac has 130K on it and we have an unrelated "shudder" that occurs at about 68 mph that we have never been able to get rid of (despite our efforts). We decided that we probably ought to get something "dependable", although the pontiac would have fit that description last week.
BUT, that being said, we have a 17 year old daughter that could use it around town IF anyone has any reasonable advice on what our next course of action should be. Synthetic oil, Slick 50, Marvel Mystery oil, or maybe even just a better dealer/mechanic?
Our thoughts are that we would like to get all we can out of this car, but without the expense of dropping a new or rebuilt engine in the car. Anybody think we have any chance of doing something like that? You see, extending engine life even 1,000 miles would be great, but we can't have her driving around w/chimes going off and the engine light on, or thinking that at any minute the engine might seize up on her.
I am very interested in hearing anyone's opinion on this. We ended up buying another vehicle, so money to fix this one is very tight.
TIA
- Matt
at dealership (within last month).
bulletin BOTH upper & lower manifolds should be
changed. I agree GM should take the blame for
lousy design but they won't until enough stink is
raised & by the right people. I had a 90 Buick La Sabre w/over 265 k miles with NO problems. Thanks
GM for taking one of the best engines you've made
& screwing it up.