Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

mlm4

The door rubbing the fender, especially enough to bend it, it pretty disturbing. That kind of stuff should never leave the factory, especially on a ~$30k car (really, on ANY car). So typical for the salesman to say, "Oh yeah, that happens."

A number of owners including me have complained about creaking noises especially in the front door panels. It's due to the nylon fasteners not doing such a good job keeping the panel firmly attached to the door. Some owners have gone so far as to have the panel glued into place; it helps but is not a cure-all. I would suggest having the dealer check for broken/improperly installed fasteners, but I also hate having the service department taking my car apart because they often make the problem worse or create new ones. The front passenger door on my 2000 SSEi rattles a bit but not enough for me to want to mess with it and possibly make it worse.

pontiacrick

With regard to the door rubbing the fender. I noticed this when on a test drive I parked the car at home to look it over. That's when the passenger door was rubbing the fender. Then when I took it back to the dealer lot and tried to show the sales person, the darn door didn't rub at all. Made me feel like I was imagining things. But then at another Pontiac dealer (on a 2002 bonneville just off the truck) is when I noticed the same thing happen and this one actually caught the fender and bent it slightly. Anyway, I hope the creaking noises can be solved. It really sounds more like it is coming from the dashboard area or around the front window pillar, not necessarily the door. But the sound can play tricks inside a car. Thanks for the door panel idea.

rjs200240

I just wanted to throw in my two cents about the back seat on the GP and the Altima. I've been in the back seat of a 1997 Regal GS on a 300+ mile trip and it was quite comfortable. I noticed that only the GP seems to have uncomfortable seating. When I test drove a GP in 1997, I couldn't even sit upright in the driver's seat. I lowered the seat as far as it would go, and I am only 6' tall. The Intrigue and Regal are much more accommodating, so I don't think the W-car is a bad design.

With respect to the Altima, the V-6 only has 240 hp, not 260. Plus the interior is really cheapy and the gauges are horrible. Plus, by the time you add any decent features (ABS isn't even standard) it is over $27,000. For this price you can get a GTP or Regal GS that will smoke the Altima to 60. With an automatic the GS hits 60 in about 6.5 seconds, and is way more luxurious than the Altima. I don't find the Altima to be the amazing car it is hyped to be. It really isn't that cheap once you add any features to it, it isn't slow but neither is it amazingly fast. I personally think the exterior is ugly and the interior is worse. The interior quality is lacking and the gauges are about the worst I've seen (the new Camry is close with its overlapping gauge needles). I'm sure it's better than the previous Altima, but to me that isn't exactly a ringing endorsement.

ayrat

Does anyone know if it could cause any harm using 10W-40 motor oil instead of recommended
10W-30 for 3.8L engine? Regards, Ayrat.

ayrat

I wouldn't want to use it, but the thing is that it have been done already by mechanic on saturday and I've just realised it today. Sounds stupid, I know... Should I go and replace it with 10W30, or it would be alright to drive with it for another 3,000 miles?
Regards, Ayrat

mfahey1

My guess is it won't hurt you but I'm a little puzzled as to why the mechanic would put it in since most, if not all, of the newer cars use either 10w30 or 5w30.
Somewhere in the dim recesses of my brain, I seem to remember that 10w40 has a greater tendency to leave ash deposits and gum the rings. Again, though, if it is just in there for this one change, it should be okay.

ayrat

I almost did... Thanks for your quick replies.
Regards, Ayrat

enter_id

I just bought a 91 and it hesitates when starting from a dead stop with a little bucking to it. After 1st gear, it stops. The trans has been rebuilt, new plugs, new fuel pump, 3 new censors (one of them going to the cam). Any suggestions?

alcan

Spark plug wires.

enter_id

Now there is a bigger problem with the car. When I make a right turn, the car hesitates for a long time, as if running out of gas, or completely stalls. It does not do this while going straight or making a left turn. In the old carb days, I would say it was the float, but this car doesn't have a carb. I have a hunch this may be related to short hesitation when it starts from a dead stop. I have not changed the plug wires yet, which it does need, but I don't think that's the only problem. Any more ideas? Also, I put in the high octane gas which helped a little, but that's only a band-aid fix.

bonnevilleman

I have a 1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi that I purchased used. It was always my dream car so I had to have it. Well within my 1 year of ownership I have had NUMEROUS problems with it.

1. when idling the engine runs VERY rough and when you first start the car, revs to 2500 rpms and then idles down and dies. Start it again and it will stay running but very very rough. After a few minutes of idling either at a stop light or just sitting in the driveway the CHECK ENGINE light will come on. I have taken it to the dealer and they say it is giving a "Lean Code" which means the O2 sensor and fuel filter need replacing. I have replaced each of these twice but to no avale. What could be wrong?

2. While into the dealer for the above mentioned problem they said the transmission was giving a code that the TCC Sylenoid was out. What is it and what does that mean? Is it something I should be worried about?

3. Last but not least when I start the car there is a distinct rattle coming from the left front. after you have driven for a little ways it stops but it bothers me. Any suggestions?

If anyone can help me with these problems, it would be greatly appreciated.

Preston

mfahey1

Can't help you with #1 and #3. The TCC is the torque converter clutch which locks up about 45mph. After the car shifts into 4th and you keep accelerating, you'll hear the engine rpm drop about 45 which is the converter clutch locking up for better fuel economy and less heat being generated in the transmissionl.
When it fails, it usually fails "locked up" which means when you come to a stop, the engine is still locked to the transmission and will die. So, if it is going out, you will have to replace it unless of course, it is failing to lock up in which case you could probably ignore it.

alcan

The lean code does not mean an oxygen sensor failure, but that the oxygen sensor is detecting a lean air/fuel ratio. Too often people tend to "blame the messenger". Although it could be caused by low fuel pressure (fuel pump or filter), the most likely cause given your symptoms is a vacuum leak at the engine. Start by carefully inspecting all vacuum lines and hoses. 3800 engines have also had some intake manifold/gasket and throttle body base gasket issues. If vacuum lines have been positively eliminated as the source, try spraying WD40 these areas. If idle rpm changes you have a gasket leak.

Re the TCC solenoid, failure on your transaxle usually results in no converter clutch apply, not a failure to release. More common is wear of the tcc apply valve bore, a component in the transaxle valve body. Do you have the codes available to post?

bonnevilleman

Unfortunately I don't have the code to post. I had written them down but have since lost the paper. The torque converter does lock however at 48 mph on the dot when driving unless accelerating rapidly (which I am afraid to do with the current problems.) I'll have to take some time under the hood and inspect the vacuum lines. I think that may be the problem b/c while the engine is above 1000 rpms it seems to run fine but the instant it goes below that it starts running rough. LOL I had a guy in a mustang gt 5.0 beside me at a stop light this morning and since the car runs rough it lunges as if it has a 454 under the hood. well he smoked off the line only to realize I only have a sick bonneville not a street rod LOL

PS.
The car tries to adjust it's idling to compensate for the roughness but unfortunately it won't keep it an idle of 1100 rpms.

alcan

The hunting idle and lean air/fuel mixture would definitely lead me toward a vacuum leak. Keep us posted on what you find.

alcan

Another thought, might be a dirty mass air flow sensor but I'd check for vacuum leaks first.

bonnevilleman

I'll pull her into the garage today or this evening and see what I can find on her. Thanks guys. I'll keep ya posted on what I find

montanafan

I am late to the discussion, but check the supercharger for a gasket leak around the pulley end or the base. Also noise, especially if just on start up after long rest, might be from the transmission.

bonnevilleman

I'll check that also Montana. My father-in-law has a body shop here and a new shop that's almost finished with no cars in it. He's going to let me use it tomorrow and he's going to help me with do the brakes on it and also check all this stuff out. I'll keep ya posted

Preston

bonnevilleman

well I pulled it into the shop and while my brakes were being done I checked out the vacuum lines that I could see...they all were intact and clear however the rubber hoses that connected them with other lines and components were rotted. I replaced all those but I don't know if I got them all b/c it's still running rough. I didn't have a chance to check the intake manifold gaskets or the SC pulley gaskets. I'll do that this weekend. Too many things to do and too little time.

u22u

Read msgs 51,56,60,67,69,40,19,659,660 and you'll get an appreciation for my similar problem. After $1400 in various "experts" diagnostic opinions the problem still exists but not quite as bad. Replaced EGR, O2sensor, MASS Airflow Sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, new plugs,Catalytic converter, and muffler.
I used to get 28 to 30mpg in this 94 bonneville with 149K miles. When the problem got real bad it was 16-18mpg. Currently it's up to 22mpg after all the expenses. The car has plenty of pedal power at all speeds. I have read many, many of the msgs posted since 2000. No one has actually come up with a complete resolution for what seems to be a chronic problem with us bonneville owners. If anyone to date has truly had the problems as mentioned in the messages I stated above then I'd love to hear what the fix was. Here's what others have done that I haven't done, but then their attempt to fix the problem wasn't fully qualified as fixed. others with the similar problem did the follwing: Changed the TCC Solenoid, Changed a bulk air sensor (which I suspect was the MASS airflow sensor on the throttle body), Change the crankshaft sensor, Reset the tranny adaptive memory.

My biggest problem at this time is that the car shakes at highway speeds, gets poor mileage, and occassionally the Service Engine Soon light comes on. When it gets to this point the car will sometimes stall at any speed.

One mechanic referring to the Lean Burn syndrome said what I needed was to have the plenum taken off of the top of the engine and completely cleaned of all carbon deposits, and especially clean the small holes that feed the EGR valve. Follow all this with a chemical Motor Vac clean up for the injectors, fuel rails, etc.

If some of you veterans of this problem finally figured out your hesitation, lurching, bucking, etc difficulty let me know. We should try to get our heads together for a final fix. Ponitac dealers have yet to figure out what the problem truly is.
Respond to my email: gmillione@yahoo.com

enter_id

Okay, I believe I bought a lemon. Within the last two weeks, I've missed 3 days of work because of that car and there's another prob now.
The main prob on the hesitation to stalling was because the previous owner, or one of his mechanics, did some work to the car and didn't put 2 of the engine mount bolts back in. Yesterday, I had to replace the alternator because it was fluctuating on the output. So far, 4 sensors, one alternator has been replaced and I just got a phone call from the wife saying it's over heating. Normally, I would think of the thermostat, but I suspect it's the temp sensor that blew up. Any clues on what could be blowing up the sensors?

bonnevilleman

WOW sounds like I'm definately not the only one with weird probs. I've also noticed my gas guage reports an incorrect reading as if the float in the tank is sticking. Could all these problems be related a failing main computers in these cars?

On another note I have started my search for a Nissan 200SX SE-R. 1998 model preferably (since that is the newest model you can get; nissan discontinued them after 98). I won't be able to get one till I can get my bonneville up to par to trade in or paid off. Alas I am stuck with something that I can't figure out. Very frustrating for someone like me. This whole escapade has really dropped my faith in GM and their 3.8 liter engines. I don't think I'll ever get another bonneville unless I plan on getting rid of it in 40,000 miles.

Preston

enter_id

I had that prob too, along with many others. My fuel gauge kept fluctuating between 1/4 tank and the turn signals flashed VERY slow. The prob for me was a bad alternator which the output kept fluctuating. I replaced the alternator and it improved; however, it's meaningless since the car died about 100 miles later.

bonnevilleman

ahhhh that would explain why my car won't even start for me now...FUN FUN! I'm so disappointed with it I don't know what to do. My turn signals blink slowly also. Thanks for the advice enter.

Preston

enter_id

After getting more information from the wife, like pulling teeth, found out that the car temp sensor came on the dash but the gauge did not go up, then the car stalled and won't start. I checked the battery and it's good, tried jumping the car, tried smacking the starter and nothing. It just makes one quick click when I turn the key. It APPEARS to be the starter, but doubt it. I've never heard of a starter stalling a car when it goes bad. After the alternator was installed, along with a new serpentine belt and idle pulley, it ran for about 100 miles pretty smoothly before it keeled over. Anybody want my piece of crap car? I'm getting frustrated with it already.

enter_id

It sounds to me that our two cars have basically the same probs. Have you had your computer regulators checked? All I can think of is the worse case scenario.

montanafan

Have not followed too closely your other posts, but read #675. Those symptons also would match a possible cooling system problem. An engine overheat could indicate a coolant leak into the engine which would fill a cylinder (or more) so the engine would stall because the water could not be compressed. When you try to start, the starter would give you one click, then be unable to turn any more. May have to pull spark plugs to see if water comes out.

bonnevilleman

Mine is doing EXACTLY that. However it ran fine up until I parked it at my roommate's office and then I got in it to go home and.. "click".. not a darn thing. This has happened to me before, not a big deal, just have to clean the battery posts and reconnect them. however this time, it was to no avail. I can't get it jumped and I can't get the dang thing to even turn over. all the interior lights come on and everything works fine that is electrical, except for starting the hunk of junk. Any ideas from anyone on how to get out from under a car that if it was running right I would still be 5000 upside down on?

Enter, I haven't had my computer checked on it yet. I'm so PO'd at the thing right now I can't see str8 and I'm supposed to be starting a new job monday!

Preston

wnewell

check your coolant level if low pull spark plugs and see if engine will crank and if one or more cylinders are filled with coolant, if so you have intake manifold problem.

bonnevilleman

I'm a little confused. If one of the cylinders is filled with coolant shouldn't all the interior lights and dash lights get dim when trying to turn the engine over? that would indicate that the starter is trying to turn but isn't able to. None of my interior lights or dash lights get dim. It just clicks and nothing else happens.

bonnevilleman

when I say my car clicks while trying to start it, I mean it only gives 1 click and nothing happens. It's like the starter is disconnected.

domi2

hi i own a 2001 Bonneville SLE which now has 13000 miles on it i am very happy with it. Does anybody know if the Head up display from the SSEI can be put into the SLE thanks.

jgmilberg

If it only gives one click is probably a bad starter or starter wire. Could be a bad bendix or solenoid too. When you cleaned the battery terminals did you pop the bolt out of the rubber boot and clean that area up too? Check the battery too, you should take the battery in and have it tested at your local auto parts store to make sure you don't have a bad cell in it. Then if the battery was the problem take it back to the auto parts store and have them run a charging system check on t to make sure you don't have a fried alternator.

bonnevilleman

Domi, from my understand I think it could be done but I have never, nor would I want to, attempt it. I think it requires a different dash and the works, not to mention all the electronic relay equip.

now for my car. I had the car towed to my roommate's dad's shop and he and all of his mechanics seem to think it is the starter that has frozen up on the car. However we have yet to tear into it and see exactly what it is. Sooooo I'll let you guys know how that all turns out.

Preston

cobrajet7

I own a 92 Bonneville, and have been having a problem no one can fix. The car will periodically not start, and the security light will light on the dashboard. For 3 minutes, the car will not start, but there is power to everything else. After 3 minutes, the car starts. This happens sometimes twice a day, and sometimes not for 2 or 3 days. Any suggestions?
Cobrajet7

montanafan

Problem is with the PassKeyII theft deterrent system. The system appears that it is not recognizing the ignition key you are using. If you clean the key (pencil eraser on the chip) or try a second key and get the same results, one possible cause is bad contacts in the lock cylinder in the steering column. Would require replacing the lock cylinder.

cobrajet7

Montanafan....thank you for that advice. I will give cleaning the chips a try. Cobrajet7

tee2grn

I have a 2000 Bonneville.

1 rough idle
2 wheel vibrating
3 water leak at intake
4 poor trans shifting

Water leak fixed by dealer.
Tires semi-fixed by Hunter balancer at per service bullentin.
Rough idle and poor trns shifting I believe were the result of a stuck pcv valve mounted under the map sensor on 3800 eng. After replacing vlv idle as been very steady and the trans shifts have been much more dependable. Give it a try. Also I disconnected the batt. for about 1 hr. May have had some benefit.

dboyd3

I have a 2000 Bonneville SE that I feel has a defective air-pump or air shock. Here are the symptoms:

When I initially start the car, within a few seconds, the "Brpt" sound from the left passenger side trunk area indicates it is now pressurizing. Why is it so loud?

When only the driver and front-seat passenger are in the car, no further sounds are heard. Put 2 adults in the rear, the sound occurs at every stop light. This doesn't seem normal and sure is annoying to the backseat passengers.

Anyone else had similar situations and if so, what are the cures?

Thanks

bonnevilleman

I had a similar problem on an 85 buick park avenue. Although the car is 15 years older than yours the problem was the same. I noticed mine had to do with the load in the car but again I don't think it was normal. The seals on or around the struts may have developed a leak. I dunno though. My car had 230k miles on it when it laid down 50k after I got it...I didn't put too much time or consideration into it when I was having the prob.

ON ANOTHER NOTE:
The starter in my car as been replaced...I don't think it was replaced with a starter specifically for the SSEi but rather for the non supercharged engine. I notice the car cranks a lot faster than it did before. but alas the car still runs like crap. Oh well at least now it does run. I'll keep you posted on my further updates with the car.

cjwells

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement airfilter. The one that is for the vent or ac ducts. The dealer is trying to rape us on this one. Thanks for the help.

enter_id

I found the prob to the stalling, hesitation, and probs in general, so far I hope. Turned out the prob was simple and the mechanic didn't thoroughly fix it, 1/2 *** job. The positive battery cable was loose and therefore caused arcing which in turn caused rough weld spots on the terminal. The mechanic tightened it but didn't clean the contacts very well. Therefore, a week later, the car stalled again. The boot that wraps around cable, side mount type, partially melted which caused poor contact. I cleaned it thoroughly and tightened it down very tight. Now the turn signals blink even faster, hasn't stalled yet, and no jack-rabbit starts from 1st gear. Thanks for the input everyone. Lucky for me, it turned out to be basic.

mlm4

The passenger compartment air filter is only about $13 at GMPartsDirect.com (see the Owner's Manual for the part number). Likely much cheaper than the dealer's parts department, although I found that I can "negotiate" down to the suggested retail price which for parts under $20 works out to about the same as GMPartsDirect.com with shipping. Use the web site to get the prices and then go to the dealer and tell them you want the "$16.67" air filter (or whatever it is). If they know that you know what the price should be, it's harder for them to overcharge you (a stupid game they play, and get away with with unsuspecting customers).

mfahey1

In two years of owning my 2000, I have never heard the air compressor run. Since the 96 I had also had the compressor and it would run when you selected the performance mode, I know what it sounds like.
I would agree that you may indeed have a problem that hopefully is covered by warranty.

xavier64

I had people ask about this in my 2001 SE and other Bonnie owners said the "Brpt" sound was from the leveling system. I hear this noise when I first start up or if other people are in the car, at traffic lights. I have not noticed any problems driving the car but I will check with the service rep at the dealer when I take my car in for its 6 month/7500 mile checkup.

Steve (01 SE)

doxley

I am the owner of a 2001 Bonneville SLE with 5500 miles on it. Has anybody had the problem of the steering wheel pulling to the right? We have had this problem ever since day 1 and have had it to the garage several times to find the problem. This last visit they replaced the steering rack but it is still pulling to the right. Any suggestions?

jgmilberg

It's one of three problems, the car needs an alignment, your right side brake caliper is sticking on it's hardware, or you have a bad tire.

If you are getting a ton more brake dust on the right front rim then you have a sticking rotor.

Next would be an alignment, the dealers never do a good alignment, so try and find a shop that does nothing but suspension and alignment work. NOT Sears, Pep Boys, Firestone, Belle Tire, ect. Find a specialist!

If that doesn't work switch the front tires to the rear and vice versa.

Keep us informed on what you find out.

bonnevilleman

I've got an unusual problem with my alarm. Every time I set the thing and I walk away from it, it will inevitably go off. Sometimes after 5 min sometimes after 6 hours, sometimes not at all. I haven't the slightest clue as to what could be causing this. Also while driving sometimes the security light will come on and then go off and come on again eventually. It also stays on for a while after you have just started the car but eventually goes out. Any ideas on this one gents?

Preston
95 SSEi

doxley

The first thing we thought was a bad tire. My husband is an auto technician and tried the switching of the tires. When that didn't work, he did check the calipers. We've had 3 alignments done at the dealership as well as the rotors checked to no avail. Our last thing was the steering rack replacement. My husband mentioned making an appointment for an alignment check with someone local who does nothing but alignment stuff. We'll see what happens after that. Thanks for your suggestions.