Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

chasbville

Greetings all! Sounds like the typical round of problems coming up on this board. I replaced my alternator twice but haven't had problems since then. A quick check of all electrical wires, esp. on the side terminal battery is a MUST. As far as hesitation/stumbling, my engine runs less than optimally and I have determined that the circuit board (forget what GM calls this) underneath the (6) distributors has some shorting issues. Replacement for this runs about $250, I think, and the old distributors can simply be bolted back on to the new one.
On the water leaking front, I determined my water leak (into the front passenger footwell) is due to a replaced windshield and inadequate installation procedures.
94 Bonneville SE -- 95K, and I'm not too nervous about the trans -- yet!

alcan

The circuit board under the coils is the ignition control module.

joelippard3

My '95 SSEi recently has only gotten between 250 and 275 miles per tank using the recommended premium fuel -- i used to could get maybe 325 at the most and this is with "papmered" driving, if I really put my foot in it the gas seems to guzzle away. I'm up to 77k and I'm beginning to wonder about the oxygen sensors. I appreciate any suggestions.

sherlock104

hello everybody I'm new at posting please bear with me. I have a 92 bonnie SSEi with 160K miles getting about 13 to 14 mpg in city driving this seems to be awfully low.I have new plugs,wires,K&N air filter installed My scan tool registers that the car is running lean BLM's around 145 I've checked for air leaks but found none.Any suggestions! thank your for any help

imidazol97

I just checked through hundreds of messages and find a disturbing number about leaking manifolds which my LeSabre had at 66000 or so miles. Buick told me to get off the idea that they should reimburseme even for part of repair cost.\

The obvious solution is call GM's 800 numbers and complain. Shop the dealers when you're buying and let them know you won't be buying another 3800 because of all the problems with these from 95-98 and up or whatever. I even had a salesman ask his service manager if there had been problems and they claimed there' been no problem (a city dealer in Dayton, OH).

Let other buyers know about the problems so they won't get taken with builtin problems in cars, new or used, they buy.

Then buy something else yourself. Let the dealer know WHY!!!

Maybe GM will go back and do reimbursements like Firestone does after stalling for years till people no longer have the car or the paperwork to make a claim. But GM needs to feel the heat with their over-priced cars with less-than-good backup on quality.

I have a 93 LeSabre with 150,000 on it. No leaks. Just had a problem with a screw in
connector for the coolant by-pass tube that cracked -- yup they used plastic. But THOSE replacements were metal. The replacement intake manifold on the 98 was the same
piece of plastic that only lasted 66K the first time!!!

I'm searching for my replacement car for the 93. How seriously can I look at GM's LeSabre/Park Avenue,
when they don't stand behind a $300 part plus labor plus water pump plus labor because of back engineering????

Camry time?

flapper10

Re; my earlier comments in Post #842. Many thanks to "montanafan" and especially "alcan" for the wise and accurate recommendations. "ALways eliminate ignition related problems prior to moving to drivetrain and transmission" said alcan.......and boy was he right!! My woes have been isolated to the #2 spark plug ceramic insulator being cracked and causing loss of power and erratic acceleration. When reported to the prior owner's GM trained mechanic.......his response was " well that is the second time the #2 plug insulator has failed on that car!" Coincidence or just mishandling of plug during installation? Bonneville 3.8L rear plugs are difficult to get to.......and may get damaged by the socket during installation.

mybonnie

Well, i finally got the flashing "check engine" light this week so I couldn't keep poking around on the problem myself. After a thorough diagnsotics and $500 she's back in top shape. Turns out one of the ignition coils was coroded out. That, and a new set of wires and a thorough Fuel Injection system cleaning and there's no more hesitation and i hardly even have to flick the key to get her going.
That's the only problem I've had in three years so I can't complain but the timing could have been better. Wasn't wishing for a new ignition coil in my stocking this year. Oh well.

Still troubled by what I'm reading about the manifolds. Is there anything preemptive that an owner can do? Is it worth bearing the cost for a metal replacement if there's no sign of trouble? Will gm ever step up?

mfahey1

At the risk of insulting you, are you sure the batteries are good? Mine only last 18-24 months before you have to be on top of the car before the transmitter works. CR232 is the replacement battery. My apologies if you have eliminated this as a source of the problem but a surprising # of people don't realize that these are powered by batteries and they don't last indefinitely.

gmlover1

You should be able to find one cheaper than $250 after market.

mem300m

mfahey1,

Thanks for the reply and you didn't insult me. I had changed batteries in the 2 transmitters I have and the operation is inconsistent at best. I thought at first it was inconsistent connections where the plastic buttons press on the metal dome buttons on the circuit board. I added a little tape to make sure the buttons were making contact. Most of the time when i push a button and nothing happens, I tap the transmitter hard against my had and press the button again and it works. I just figure the transmitters are slowly going bad and that a new keyless entry system would be cheaper than 2 new transmitters.

I do wish it was something else. I still need to know where the receiver/module is in the car so I can replace it more easily.

Thanks,

Mike

montanafan

There are several GM dealers that have set up web sites for ordering parts. Because they look at this as plus business they offer attractive prices in exchange for not have to provide face to face service. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com is one that is many people use. I am sure a search would turn up more. Just getting two new GM remotes would be the simple route. Oh, eBay is another location may people use. I do not have remotes with my '92 Bonn, but I have heard that on some cars (not sure if Bonn) the receiver is under the rear window shelf, between the metal visable from inside the trunk and the trim visable from inside the car. Good luck.

mfahey1

It would seem odd that both transmitters would be starting to go bad at the same time. I don't know anything about how the entire system works but I would think the receiver would be a more likely source of the problem, given that the problem is affecting both transmitters.

chasbville

Yeah, I see you can get a Delco for about $180 and another brand for $160. Question is, what's the difference? Also, is this part likely to just go out, or will it slowly decay, affecting performance & MPG? I've only had it seriously affect the engine once or twice, when it made the engine stumble and seem to be running on 4 cylinders or something. Lit up the idiot light and then ran just fine after re-starting the car.

kau1

Just had the mechanic tell me of work needed on my 1998 Bonneville's lower intake manifold gasket. Anyone else have this problem or one like it? Any rebates or recourse through the company?

fantascp

Get at least a second opinion before you have the work done!- I usually have my Bonneville serviced by my local mechanic but I decided to have some extra work done on the car that i felt maybe shoud be done by the Dealership instead- BAD IDEA!!- after I brought the car in for a cooling system check/service-drain/replace refill etc- also Trans axle service- I needed a new alternator- the bearings were going for the last few months- making one hell of a noise- they gave a total price of over $800.00 -($550.00 just for the upper and lower gasket repair)- they claimed it was leaking onto the manifold etc. I said I did not believe that it was a leak and went back to my local mechanic- He pressurized the system- NO LEAKS-upper and lower gasket area completely DRY!!- All i'm saying here is it pays to have a second and/or maybe even a third opinion on this before you have the repair done!!

Chuck

fantascp

I did call Pontiac Customer Service (800 #) after the Dealership told me I needed the gaskets etc- Pontiac told me since I was the SECOND owner and the vehicle had 76,800 miles- it was no longer under the 3yr- 36,000 mile warranty- NO ASSISTANCE was available. I'm glad I got a second opinion on it.

Good Luck!!!!

Chuck

mfahey1

I have a 2000 Bonneville that has been in 3 times for trunk leaks which I know has been an issue with these cars. This last time they tried resealing the taillights again, tried resealing a seam again, only to have things still leaking. They finally decided that the weatherstripping was the problem. There was no damage to the old weatherstripping so unless there has been a redesign of the weatherstripping, I am highly skeptical of the long term "cure". Maybe another reason to be looking at the GXP when it comes out.

scscars

I bought a 2002 Bonneville SLE in late September, but before I took final delivery, I checked NHTSA.gov and looked for the Technical Service Bulletin posting on the trunk leaks. Thanks to Edmunds Town Hall, I found out that there was indeed a TSB on this issue at the NHTSA web site. I mentioned the TSB to the dealer, and it look as if the problem is fixed. We had heavy rains in October and November, and the Bonnie goes to the car wash every week. To date, no trunk leaks.
See if the TSB will work for the 2000 Bonneville if the weatherstripping change doesn't work out.

rea98d

I took my grandmother's '92 Bonneville to Florida once, and stopped in Beaumont, Tx, filled the gas tank, and drove all the way to Pensecola, Fl, about 440 miles, on one tank of gas. Mind you, she was sucking fumes by the time we pulled into Pensecola, but she did it. A more sensable person would fill up before then, but I wanted to see if I could start in Texas, drive across Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and into Florida (That's 5 states, if you're counting) on one tank of gas. My grandmother thought I had lost my mind when I didn't stop for gas. Also, this car has the N/A engine, so those of you with SSEi's, you may find yourself burning a bit more gas. Those of you with poor fuel economy, other than the usual stuff like tune-ups, checking sensors, ect, I don't know what to suggest, but this is just an example of what a N/A motor can do when it's in good shape.

mfahey1

With a tank of 18.5 gallon capacity, looks like you got around 25 miles per gallon, assuming it was full to start and nearly empty at the fillup. For a Bonneville, that actually isn't particularly good unless you were driving well above 80. I drove my mother's 87 LeSabre back from Maine to the Midwest and averaged 30mpg with it. My 96 SE routinely got 29-30 on a highway trip and my SSEi has gotten as high as 29 on a trip but more normally, it is 26-28.

rea98d

25 sounds about right, although the best we've gotten out of it is 28.5. Ironically, my V-8 powered Thunderbird routinely gets 27.5 MPG out on the highway, and once, I even squeezed 28.5 out of it.

smfran

I drive very conservatively and average 22 MPG on mixed driving with 87 octane. I have a K+N air filter and leave my climate control on auto with the A/C on. On 100 mile trips of all highway, I have achieved 29 MPG.

I believe it was theiceman who mentioned he never resets his DIC and therefore has a true MPG average over the life of the vehicle.
Comments ice?

mfahey1

For those of you with post 2000 Bonnevilles, you may not know that there is an air filter for the outside cabin air that is located on top of the engine cowling behind a trap door. I looked at mine recently and it was just loaded with stuff. I forked out $25.59 at the dealer for a replacement unit but I have to believe and I'm going to check the next time I'm there that the Napas of the world, if they carry it, would be only a fraction of that.
It only took a couple of minutes to replace unlike the engine air filter and since mine was pretty much gunked up at 26,000 miles, let that be a guide to what shape yours might be in.

smfran

Thanks for the reminder. I completely forgot about that filter. I'll definitely be checking it out.

evandro

Anybody has its part number available for a quick quote at GM PartsDirect?

mfahey1

CF117. Also, don't make the same mistake I did after I picked up the part from the dealer. I went marching back in there about 15 minutes later to tell them that they hadn't given me the same size as the original. I didn't feel too bright when she showed me that the original and the replacement were folded over onto themselves at one end for reasons known only to GM. I was comparing the folded over original to the unfolded replacement and came up with 1+1=3.

evandro

Would you please care to share with those less able like me how to replace the cabin air filter?

TIA

garnold1

I spent hours turtle waxing my auto to a beautiful shine. That was a month ago and now can't even get beading on the hood. And I thought that was my last coat of wax for winter. I'm trying Zaino and picking up some Eagle One while I'm there. My turtle waxing days are over.

mfahey1

It's actually very simple and only takes a minute or two. Open the hood and look on the passenger's side up by the cowl. There is a small trap door (maybe 6"x4") with two tabs in front. Push the tabs to pop open the door. The filter has to by maneuvered out with a little patience but is really quite easy. Make a mental note of the fold in the filter since it is front. It doesn't appear to make any difference which way you put the replacement back in in terms of right or wrong side up. Reverse the removal steps and you're done.
What I really like about this filter is that it protects the heater core and the air conditioning evaporator coil from getting clogged up with stuff. It may or may not be a benefit to any particular owner depending on how long someone keeps the car but somewhere down the road, someone will benefit from this filter.

mfahey1

As you may have read a week or so ago, I just used Zaino for the first time and really liked the results. What I don't know is the durability of it and what the reapplication time frame is. That may be a matter of how the car is washed and the environmental exposure it gets. Time will tell.

Karen_S

This discussion in M&R is where the loyal Zaino-ites gather. ;-)

Zaino Car Polishes/Products--Your Experiences

ahoosier

I have a 2000 Bonneville, bought used with 50,000 miles. I have an extremely ruff idle, and it dies periodically while waiting at a stop light. Anyone have the same experience?

ahoosier

Anyone experience a background buzzing noise coming from the FM channel? More noticeable on the highway then around town. It sounds like the radio is picking up some type of engine noise. I have the AM/FM, cassette with single CD radio.

hutbet

2000 se went at 28000 miles. warranty covered. now have 40000, wondering if she blows again at 56000 ???. also bought new 97 thunderbird 4.6 liter V8 in june 1997. received letter from ford in february 1998 etending manifold warranty for seven years from purchase date with no mileage stipulation. she just blew at 72000 mils and ford towed it and repaired it totally FREE of charge. sure makes a new ford much more appealing...

mfahey1

One area to look at is the EGR valve. That seems to be one of the most common causes of rough idling but with the OBDII system, I wonder if the "service engine soon" light would come on.

islandman

I purchased a 1994 B-ville SE about a year ago. She has 120000 miles and one previous owner. Upon the first hard rain I noticed a lot of water pouring into the car from the overhead map light fixture. After the car dried out I checked the drain holes on the sunroof seat. They backed up and overflowed quickly. I cleaned about two gallons of leaf debris out of the front fender wells and located the two front drain tubes in the A pillar . I blew these out from above with compressed air. The two rear drain holes are hidden so I blew them out from below. I park the car at the curb and it tilts to the right and It can rain for days with no leaks, but if I park on level ground the water pours in. I suspect the left rear drain tube, but can only find the end, under the rocker panel. Does anybody know where the tube is located? Appreciate any suggestions. PS read all 934 posts, a great site with great people.

chasbville

To Hoosier, you might want to check out the past codes. It could be the ICM (see my post above). To Islandman, I have a heckuva problem with water leaking in (also have a sunroof). I assume you are *JUST* talking about the sunroof drains. I was never able to find the drains off the windshield area --- was told by someone that a replaced windshield could be responsible for water coming into the passenger footwell. My car ONLY leaks when parked on a (heading) down slope. Otherwise --- no problem! Since I took in about 2 gallons last winter, it's too late, the car is distinctly mildewed. To ALL: HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR!

mfahey1

I think with my much slipperier body thanks to Zaino, I'm getting better fuel economy. I filled up before I left for work and as I pulled into work, the DIC read 27.9mpg. Not bad for a slightly modified SSEi.
No flaming, please as I said it all with tongue in cheek. However, it did look awfully nice today as the moisture beaded up on it thanks to the snow/rain mix we received.

islandman

Thanks chasbville for the info. The top piece of the windshield trim is loose, but I can hold a hose there and even though the water runs under the trim and then down the side, none enters the interior. My leak seams to be centered , right where the map lights are located and always drips from above. The front center of the headliner also becomes saturated. Anybody ever see the rear drain tubes? thanks..

slick222

1996 bonnie, great car, I think? it's been a pretty good for me so far, but I got this problem that no one can find. Stalls out of no where and starts right back up like nothing happen. Tech says it's not showing any codes, but he changed the crank shaft sensor, idler sensor, almost all sensors, & computer too. still have problem. Believe it or not he didn't charge me, he took everything back off. Since April of this year I've change the plugs & wires, egr valve, water pump, & intake manifold gasket. The car is obd II certified. It can stall just setting there or while driving. Although I've noticed that it stalls ( while driving )after you start coming to a stop. RPM gage goes up too 2000 then back down to 500 sometimes then levels out at 1000 ( if it doesn't stall ). Seems to happen only after engine warm up. The weird thing is it starts up so easy after stalling. I did something I probably should not have done! I started guessing!! I put a new EGR valve on, and up the idle by just a 1/4 of a turn. Result, I'm out $170.00. I Hope someone out there can help me.
I got my other tech coming to see me after the first of the year ( he lives out of town ). We've
talked over the phone he's lost, says he needs to drive it to see. Yes, my first tech is certified and has all the neat gadits to read codes. He even left it hooked up to the computer for 2 hours. He said once in awhile it would rev up then down and sometimes stall ( again, no codes ).

alcan

Check the main engine wiring harness bulkhead connector for loose, relaxed, or corroded terminals.

slick222

Thanks for responding, Please keep in mind I know enough to be dangerous, should I disconnect the battery first before unplugging?

alcan

No, it's not necessary. Just have the ignition switch off. First thing, try wiggling the wiring harness end at the bulkhead connector with the engine running to see if you can get a stall, AFTER removing rings, watch, chains, necktie, etc. I've had a few where the crimped terminals were making intermittent contact with the wire. If no result, repeat at each device's harness connector. Also, if the positive battery cable is a piggyback type (2 cables stacked at the battery), remove and check for corrosion between the terminals after first removing the negative cable from the battery. Btw, you'll lose all presets, and make sure the radio's not in Lock mode. If all's well, time to check into the bulkhead connector itself. No guarantee you're going to find anything, but it only takes a few minutes and eliminates some possibilities.

slick222

ok! I did the terminals yesterday, wiggle all I could, nothing. I did notice one thing, after the cooling fans turn on, she does it! stalls 90% of the time after they kick on! the other 10%
it revs up and down! As far as the bulkhead connector, I think I know how to get it off but I don't won't screw it up. I see a bolt right in the middle of it, when I unscrew it, it raises the plug up, like it's a jack bolt? There's one clip on each side of it, it looks like you hold the clips out and unscrew? I don't want to screw this baby up? Again thanks for taking your time with me! bonnie in Ohio!

alcan

Bonnie: yep, the screw holds the halves of the connector together. Just unscrew and pull the connector apart. The 2 tabs hold the cover on the connector after separating the halves. Before digging in that far though, try posting your problem here. We have access to Alldata schematics, and 700+ mechanics who contribute. One might have run into this and have the fix. Please be year, model, engine, symptom specific:

 http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi?forum_name=domestics

antelope182

While looking at a 2002 used Bonneville I opened the trunk and was welcomed by bucket-loads of water. Because I was prepared to make on offer on this car at the time of the deluge, the dealership "checked out" the leak and said they found no apparent cause for the water collecting in the trunk lid. I later discovered they replaced the seals. How common is this trunk leak problem? What seems to be the usual cause? Does a seal replacement "fix" the problem?

adf1

02 SE, bench seat. The manual is very unclear. Yet, checking the fuse box, #22 is an "External Accessory Power" (right next to the Cigarette Lighter fuse # 23). I checked the fuse and it's HOT (there is current)! Means, it receives power and sends it somewhere, but for god sake WHERE TO? There is no power outlet anywhere in the car!
Has anyone found it?>

gmlover1

Check on the other side of the ashtray.

adf1

gmlover1: If you mean the inner side of the ashtray, then I already checked; there are 4 wires, 2 to the Cig/Light and 2 to a small bulb, illuminating the ashtray. Couldn't find any "free" pair in that area, unless you KNOW it's there (in which case I'll remove all covers and run a "search party")??

mfahey1

Take it from one who is a veteran of 3 extended trips to the dealer with a leak, it is unfortunately fairly common. According to past posts, there are 4 potential areas of leakage. The mounting holes for the spoiler are one, the tail light gaskets are another, the seal itself is the 3rd, and I had an open seam where the trunk met the quarter panel. If you do decide to buy the car, insist that they do a high volume hose test after they do the repairs. Also, be sure they dry out the spare tire well because that is where the water will collect.