Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

mfahey1

If the noise is in the back, perhaps the auto leveling system is kicking in and may be doing what it is supposed to I have never heard mine run but I assume it does at times. If you have never heard yours before until recently, perhaps there is a slow leak in the system, either in the shocks or in the tubing.

imidazol97

Should start 40 sec after key on and run until pressure is adjusted or a maximum time (30 sec).
Stand by right rear bumper/wheel after you turn the key on (engine doesn't have to be running). You should hear compressor run for about 30 sec. It may run when you pull up and park car and don't turn ignition off because it's readjusting height after car stops. If the sensor reads height out of right range for several seconds (`17 comes to my memory) it readjusts height.

fantascp

Keith- thats exactly what it is doing- this is a normal function? no problem?

Mark- maybe thats what its suppose to do.

I never really paid too much attention to any rear noise until about 2/3 weeks ago but that's not to say it was doing it all along but i had it drowned out with the radio coming on auto!

I just happened to hear it with the radio on off.

Thanks for the responses.

Chuck

fantascp

Need help again- My trunk release malfunctioned. The trunk will not open either with the remote and /or the driver side door button release-
the Remote is working ok and the side door button is working properly with the Valet function- when i turn it on in the trunk the button doesn't click-turn it off and it clicks ok! same with the remote- when i hit the trunk release it clicks but the trunk will not open. The trunk does open and close no problem with the manual Key.When the trunk is open it also registers properly on the D.I.C as ajar etc.
Is this an electrical problem or mechanical or a combo of both?- before i start to dismantle the driver side door and the rear trunk latch etc. any info??

Thanks again,

Chuck

madeinusa

My 2000 SE experienced transmission problems at about 90K miles, with noise at low speeds and hard shifts between second and third and third and fourth gears. Since I bought the car new, I have had GM service the transmission about every 30K miles, so I was kind of surprised - not to mention disappointed and angry. The car is mostly hiway driven, but the commute does involve some traffic, but not taxi service. The diagnosis was "failure of the second gear, which caused a higher RPM indication to the computer, which called for a harder shift." The cost of the rebuild was almost $1800. !! and it still shifts hard between third and fourth gear. I love this car and have been a loyal GM car buyer for about 30 years. I like the size of the Bonneville and am not really sure about foreign makes, but when I complained to the dealer that sold me the car, they said "You should have purchased the extended warranty." Well, maybe I should have bought some other make - maybe even foreign !

xavier64

Chuck,

mfahey1 is right on the money in saying that the noise from the back is the auto leveling system running. It will occur briefly at stop lights or after just starting the car. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I try to check the boards now and then. When people were in my Bonnie for the first time, they thought there was a problem but other helpful Bonnie owners here at the town hall had explained about the auto leveling process.

As far as the ABS, I was able to finally test it out on some snow covered roads and when you jam on the breaks, you will feel a thudding feeling coming from the pedal. Is there any warning noise associated with anti-lock brakes to let you know it is time to get new pads?

The only problem I have to watch out for is accidentally hitting the trunk release on the key fob(Bad when rain is in the forecast!). I wish it was like my fathers '97 Riviera (sp) that opens but does not pop open the trunk.
I also would enjoy taking the Bonnie and joining Mom and Dad cruising around Florida taking in spring training games. I am sure the weather is excellent.
Take care Chuck, hope all is well.

Steve

mfahey1

If it's clicking but not opening, maybe some oil or grease is in order. Sounds like the latch is at least trying to release.

imidazol97

I'm not sure I understand about your symptoms with the click. When you push the botton in the car or on the release, you should hear a relay click that should turn on power to the screw-like mechanism in the trunk. That plastic housing with the motor and screw drive in it pulls on the trunk mechanism and opens it.

You might try a voltmeter at the connector to the motor in the trunk. See if you're getting a 1 second burst of electricity across the two terminals (power and ground).

My bet would be on the motor. I had to replace mine because it quit releasing after opening the trunk and I had to hit it to get it to let the mechnism relax so that the trunk could latch closed. $18 or so I believe.

If you hear a click under the hood or dash when pushing on the remote, the relay may be working. But might not be sending power to the trunk motor.

xavier64

Mark and Keith:

Sorry for any confusion about the trunk release. The Bonnie's trunk is working fine and pops open when I hit the trunk release on the key fob. I was just comparing how my father's '97 Riviera trunk release works compared to the Bonnie.
 
What has occurred in the past is that when I am inside the house, the button for the trunk release is accidentally triggered and the trunk of the Bonnie pops open. I had an occasion where my father came back from an errand and asked if I knew my trunk of the Bonnie was open.

On my father's Riviera, when the trunk is opened, it pops open slightly and you need to lift it to open it all the way. The only benefit is that if you set it off by accident, your trunk won't be wide open.

Thanks for the input. It seems the automatic signal to open one's trunk and doors can operate from a decent distance. Take care.

Steve

fantascp

Thanks guys for all the input.
I'll just let the load leveling do its thing.

Keith- there is clicking as if its trying to open. As you mentioned,the motor sounds like the problem area. Thats first to be checked out.

I did try lubricating the latch mechanism- did not do anything- still will not release.

I'll repost after its working again.

Chuck.

imidazol97

If you can hear the motor at the trunk release whirring for a second when you hit the remote or the dash button for the trunk, the problem may be inside the unit with the motor. The motor is the size of a model car's motor. IT turns a screw mechanism made of plastic. That may be broken.

If you hear no whirring from the motor, check for voltage to the motor from the relay.

If voltage present when button is push, replace unit. I believe mine on 98 Buick was $18...
I had taken it apart and played with fixing it just out of curiosity. It's nicely designed, but not worth the trouble to repair or fiddle with it.

slicksickwilly

Hello Bonnie Owners,
  Quick question on my 02 SE.. The passenger heated seat switch when you turn it on lights momentarily then goes out.. It will not stay lit and the seat will not heat.. Right side stays lit when you push it and seat heats up fine.. It will be a week before dealer looks at it under warranty so i was wondering if anybody had this happen and what was the cause.. Thanks in advance:)

mlm4

According to GM, the majority of problems with heated seats are failed heat elements (open or broken circuit). If even one element fails, the seat will not heat. No mention of possible causes, but I would guess that flexing due to sitting on the cushion might cause this. In any event, the repair used to involve replacing the entire seat cushion, which is costly and often difficult to match leather color. There is a new service part that essentially is a new heating element that is installed between the cushion and the factory heat element. For the 2000-2003 Bonneville, it is described by TSB 01-08-50-012A.

slicksickwilly

Thanks mlm4,
  Was hoping mabe it was as simple as a switch but im prepared now.. That extended warranty is looking better everyday! Great info..

gbmohr

I have had 2 Bonneville's, a 94 & now a 99.
Both have had reoccuring Manifold leaks about every 20-30k miles. As always it's covered under warranty, but as soon as it's out of warranty I get stuck with the bill. In recently talking to my local service adviser, he commented that this is a reoccuring problem, and even the NEW Bonneville are having the same problem. I have tried to reason with GM, but there comment is "we can't warranty them forever". In general I have liked both Bonneville's, but with this obvious design flaw that they won't fix (going away from a Plastic Manifold would be a good start)but obviously the extra cost is too much for them, so they have lost a customer forever.

hueyfan

I just bought a 1999 Bonneville SE with 43,000 miles on it. Traced records found with the car back to the original dealer, where it had been serviced. A lower intake manifold leak was fixed at 19K. From the discussions I have seen, I didn't think the '99 had problems, but I'm starting to see that isn't the case. So is it just a matter of time before it happens again?
I had a 1999 Montana with the 3.8L and didn't have any problems.
Also, anyone have any problems with the tranny? I traded a 1995 Lumina LS with the 3.4L engine and replaced the tranny in that at 85,000. I've been told that GM trannies are pretty reliable.

mybonnie

I'm still stumped by this recurring problem that my shop can't diagnose. Six months ago my bonnie started stalling and restarting itself after 2-3 minutes from a cold start. When it finally started missing and threw a code I took it in. Shop replaced one ignition coil, full set of wires, fuel filter, injector cleaning, other assorted stuff for about $500. This fixed the problem for a few weeks. Problem started up again a couple of months ago and continues to get worse. No check engine light though. Now it is very hard starting, dies after two to three minutes. I have to restart it. Sometimes dies again two to three minutes in. Then runs ok -- a little rough but ok. Shop tells me they can't figure it out without a code. This problem is becoming serious and it always happens at the same time which makes me think it could be temperature or sensor related. Anybody come across this before?

ds

imidazol97

You didn't say if you had taken her into a Pontiac dealer
for the service. I can't believe it's a unique problem that hasn't
popped up before. Driving with a scantool on it after a cold
start should catch the problem...

Does it die quickly or slowly? How many miles on the car?
What type of driving has rolled up those miles, city highway?

I had a stall problem with a car that needed an update prom
for the computer because of deposits on the valves changing
the mixture needed about 30 seconds after starting. It was
months later when Buick came out with a prom update. Others
had been having the same problem.

djohn81641

I have a water leak in my 2000 Bonneville. The water collects on the floor of the front drivers side. The car has been back to the dealer 3 times for the problem. First it was supposedly coming from the windshield, and it was resealed. Next, supposedly the drain tubes were clogged, and the dealer cleared them. Finally, the dealer stated the leak was coming from the sunroof, and it was replaced. The odd thing is there wasn't any detectable dampness in the headliner. Has anyone else has this problem, and if so, what was the solution? The car is still leaking, and I, nor the dealer, know what to do next.

djohn81641

I am having a problem with my stability system. The system disengages at the slightest little bump or even just a little dip in the road. It seems to be over sensitive. The dealer has replaced some of the wheel sensors, and the problem goes away for a few weeks, only to return. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be causing this and how to fix it?

montanafan

One place to check on late a model car is the water deflector in the door closest to the leak. I have read about leaks caused by the deflector not being completely sealed against the inner door. Water gets into the door and bypasses the deflector, leaks out on to the floor and goes to the low spot. I believe the Bonneville uses a water deflector system in the door.

mybonnie

I have not had it to a dealer for this particular problem. The car has just under 47K miles, mix of highway, suburban driving. It's a '99 SE.

Lately it has just been dropping dead at about three minutes in from a cold start. I'll start it again. It'll die again at about three minutes in (whether I'm idling or driving down the road). Then I'll start it a third time and it will run fine (actually a bit rough but it won't die anymore).
 Until a couple of weeks ago, it would stumble about three minutes in and then restart itself and rev up. Usually i would be at a stop light with my foot on the brake and the car would stall and then try to lunge forward.
Before this started happening last fall, the car would start with the lightest filck of the key and ran beautifully.

djohn81641

I have a water leak in my 2000 Bonneville. The water collects on the floor of the front drivers side. The car has been back to the dealer 3 times for the problem. First it was supposedly coming from the windshield, and it was resealed. Next, supposedly the drain tubes were clogged, and the dealer cleared them. Finally, the dealer stated the leak was coming from the sunroof, and it was replaced. The odd thing is there wasn't any detectable dampness in the headliner. Has anyone else has this problem, and if so, what was the solution. The car is still leaking, and I, nor the dealer, know what to do next.

djohn81641

I am having a problem with my stability system. The system disengages at the slightest little bump or even just a little dip in the road. It seems to be over sensitive. The dealer has replaced some of the wheel sensors, and the problem goes away for a few weeks, only to return. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be causing this and how to fix it?

mybonnie

Finally had to take the car into the dealership. They found that the fuel pressure regulator was leaking internally. Because of that it had been running rich and fouled the plugs and the throttle body. Another $500 later it runs fine again.

jake696

Just sold my '98 Bonne, what a relief! It only had 49K on it but a list of troubles and I'm sure more new ones to follow. The latest one was a new radiator! What really amazed me about this car is the quality, or lack of. It felt very cheaply built and downright sloppy. I guess Toyota has spoiled me on what a car is supposed to feel and perform like! No more UAW built autos for me! A Camry or Avalon (built in USA) is sooo much nicer!

evandro

You brought up a good point. Most issues I see in domestic cars are due to poor workmanship. I always thought that too much job security results in inferior products, and the UAW comes to my mind when I notice lousy assembly, bad fitting, etc. Unfortunately, those leeches are here to stay and the "imports" plants have been in their sights for a while...

95neongirl

I have a 1994 pontiac Bonneville with a 3800 engine, 6 cyl...Recently it has started to give me problems with cranking It just turns and turns but does not crank up..the first time it did it I was thinking it was low in gas..but it is full now and it does it just on ocassions...

it mostly cranks good but every now and then i go out and it won't start out of the blue...mostly it happens when i have just gotten out of it then 30 minutes or so later it won't crank..but it does not do this all the time..today it happened but before this it has driven good for about a week with no problems...so I am guessing the problems only happen after it has been warmed....

but i have cranked it after it has been warmed so it happens on occasion after being just driven within the previous hour or so....I would appreciate any help with this...thanks

mfahey1

When it does start, do you get a big cloud of black smoke out the back as if it is flooded? If so, maybe an injector or two is leaking into the cylinders in which case perhaps some fuel injector cleaner might do the trick. If not, then there are so many things it could be, mostly electrical, that your best bet is to take it to a mechanic who has diagnostic equipment and capabilities.

max74

re 94 Bonneville 3800 no start.

this sounds somewhat like what we when through
a while back ..see electical nightmare 94 Bonneville . Does car run ok once started ?
Have someone use a spark checker when cranking the next time it happens, to determine if problem
is fuel or electical.If engine cranks well and
has good spark, you just might have an intermitant
ground problem with your fuel pump.
Your car has a grounding junction under the carpet
on drivers side which when gets corroded will cause hard/ no start . We obtained this info from this site and it fixed the problem ...good luck.

wayniac

I had a water leak that sounds very similar to yours. The dealer sealed some places in the driver door area, and I believe it was at the place where the wiring harness from the door enters the body. No problems since then.

tinaatko

I have a 2000 Bonneville SE. I love it to death, but I've had this never ending problem.

If I do not start the car every morning, it won't start at all. The car is completely dead and needs a jump. I took it to the dealer about 6 months ago and they said the battery was bad and put a new one in. The car is out of warranty and I am still having the problem.

The dealer said they can't help me now, the car is out of warranty. Any suggestions??? I'm taking it to an electrical shop tomorrow to see what they can find.

imidazol97

Neighbor has a Grand Prix Turbo. Kept draining batteries. He thought it was extra alarm system he had added. Sometimes it wouldn't start next day; sometimes it would. Almost always started after 10 hours at work. Sometimes needed jumped.
If he didn't start it one day, it was likely not to start the next...
Another neighbor diagnosed it -- starter problem.
It drained the battery. I don't know if it was the solenoid or some other part. Being drained had ruined two batteries. He got a replacement battery for his one year old one from Walmart under warranty and hasn't had trouble since.
He fought this problem for couple years. The car had had a problem in wiring that caused smoke early on. He thought that repair might have been part of the problem.

montanafan

I admire your patience if this has been going on for this long. Not much technical help, if I had to guess would say one of the control modules is not going to sleep, or OnStar (if you have it) may be the draw. Will tell you that one of the situations where GM allows dealers to offer a goodwill coverage out of warranty is a problem that appeared during warranty but wasn't fixed. This could be you case. Let the electrical shop do their diagnosis. Get good documentation and receipts and then go back to the dealer and request reinbursement. If the dealer is no help, call the Pontiac Customer Assistance number (should be in your manuals). And lastly, post back with what you find for the problem.

eric312

I have a 98 Bonneville SE, dark blue and the paint started peeling from the hood. I had the same problem about 2 years ago while the car was still on warranty and dealer repainted the hood. Now it is peeling again. Has anyone had similiar problems?

kristago

I do not have a solution, but just confirmation that I had problem with the same symptoms. I had a 95 Bonneville SSE which would sometimes not turn over on occasions when I had recently (within 30-45 minutes) driven it. Only happened on a warm start such as this. Because of intermittent nature, my garage was unable to fix. They did find it had a good spark. I found that if I let the car sit for a while, after it cooled down, it would start. I opened hood to allow faster cooling. (It happened maybe 10 times before I decided to trade it - for a new 2001 Bonneville!)

tinaatko

Well according to the electrical shop I have many draws which are draining the battery. Too many to pinpoint their exact locations. Shop said it would be expensive to solve the problem and that I should try to get the dealer to fix it since it was in for the same problem before the warranty is up. They are sending me a detailed bill with what they checked and what they found.

My hubby will call the dealer once we receive that report. I'll post back once I have more news about my Bonne.

Thanks for all the advise.

mtntop99

I have a 1995 bonneville with the 3.8L engine that I had to just replace the intake manifold at a tune of $295 part cost it seems the egr pipe with its high heat destroys the plastic and then the coolant can leak by I have pictures if anyone is interested, I am also told that GM has no plans to recall or fix this problem I have alot of pride in American name and American made, I wish the engineers had to drive their designs and pay to have them repaired...

slicksickwilly

mfahey1,
  For years i have been using vasoline on all my door and trunk seals.. Just a thin coat and they keep their flexibility and resist cracking.. Rub it in good and wipe excess of or it will be a magnet for dirt and dust..

chasbville

I recently changed my plugs and bought Bosch platinums. All seems fine, but I hear the Bosch plugs are inferior and I'll need to replace 'em in about 5K miles. Anybody have any experience with that? I had the AC platinums, had no probs with them but they had about 35K on them and I figured, why not.

tinaatko

I posted back on March 27th about how my Bonne won't start if it sits for a couple of days. The electrical shop said it had a battery draw of .50 AMPS but could not pinpoint it without keeping it longer. They suggested I call the dealer once again.

Dealer was called and told about how it was brought in earlier (while under warranty) for this problem. They were told what the electrical shop found. Bottom line....they will cover it still under warranty!!! Dropping it off on Monday. They said they would have to keep it for a couple of days. I'll keep you posted on their findings.

Thanks for all your help....

djohn81641

Wayne, thank you very much for your suggestion about the door harness. I advised the dealer to check it out, and yes, the water was leaking through the door. The leak caused my driver's side power window to short circuit, and even caused the stability system monitor to malfunction. All is well now. Thanks again.

tinaatko

The dealer has had my bonne for the no start problem since last Monday. They claim they couldn't find anything wrong with it.

I went Saturday to pick my baby up and guess what. She wouldn't start. The tech was kinda embarrassed coming out and telling me that one!!!

I laughed it off and asked the tech if he still thinks there is no problem with my car!!! He agreed that something must be wrong. He said they'd start checking it out today. Can't wait to hear what they have to say now!!!

Keep you posted.

tinaatko

Well, finally heard from the dealership today. The good news is they found the problem. The bad news is they are charging me for diagnosis and labor. They state that since it's not their system, it would not be covered under the warranty.

The problem: There was an alarm system installed on the car from the previous owner which was connected with the remote entry. The back up battery for this was causing my draw, which was causing the no start problem. It was connected under the dash and the back up battery was located under the carpet on the driver's side. Strange that the car was being sold (at the time) as a certified used car and they never noticed this. At least I think it is....or maybe I'm justed P Oed.

They sold me this car with this supposed alarm system on it. They claim they did not know it was on the car. I definitely was not aware of it being on the car myself.

Bottom line is they won't give me my car back (after having it for a week and a half) until I pay their $350 to $400 bill (if not more). The Service Manager even told me that he cannot guarantee that my remote starter will work after whatever they disconnected is done. It better work, it did when I brought it in to them. They even told me that the remote starter was not the problem.

I'm angry as all hell. Anyone want to donate money to me!!! :0)

tinaatko

I've been on-line doing research on the above. Does anyone know the difference between the theft deterrent system that comes standard on the 2000 Bonne and the theft deterrent sytem that is part of the option package? According to my window sticker, I have the UA6 option system. I can't find any explanation on the difference and hope that the dealer is not trying to pull a fast one over me.

When I had the remote starter put on, the technician said that the system was a factory system. He said he'd back me on that point.

Now, I gotta get some sleep and dream about getting my Baby Back!!!

ayrat

Excuse me folk for being extremelly brief, only have few minutes of internet in library here.
Engine stalled, ALDL TEST mode gives codes 17 and 58. What would they mean?

imidazol97

IF they are same as 93 LeSabre manual....,

Code 58 is related to Pass KeyII system. The engine will not crank because the computer for Pass Key (small module under right side of passenger dash) is not getting the right resistance. (My 93 LeSabre had broken wire in column due to tilt column. It caused a change in resistance but not a complete break and caused security light to come on.)

Code 17 is spark reference circuit. It looks like part of the signals used to control ignition at lower speeds...

alcan

Check here, http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ , then post your symptoms at:
http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi?forum_name- - =domestics

alaskanhotrod

Hi all,
Been awhile since my last post. I now have 12k miles on my 02 SSEi. I had Corsa Performance do a cat back for me that I love! I put in the K&N filter and will add the 3.1 pulley this month. I looked at my front pads and they are in need of replacement. Granted I drive this car aggressily, seems 12K is a pretty short time on these pads. Any thoughts?
Thanks

ayrat

Thanks for the links.
Just have Posted the following there.
Hope this group will be helpful too.

Engine stalled, ALDL TEST mode gives codes 17 and 58. What would they mean? Found description for 17 on troblecodes.net, but nothing on 58...
Symptoms: starter cranks the engine, but no sparks at the coils whatsoever. When disconnected EI module, PCM gives code 42 (consider is normal), disconnected camshaft sensor, with EI connected to PCM - same 42 (considered as normal) could not verify with crankshaft sensor since is difficult to reach, but think PCM would produce code 42 otherwise if there is problem with sensor. Should I suspect sparc circuitry of EI?
Thank you
Ayrat