Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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  • homer2000sseihomer2000ssei Member Posts: 159
    Im wondering if anyone else has run into my newest problem.
    This is my second time - and I have an appointment to get it fixed - but here goes.

    The rear end of the car is "jacked-up" or raised about 3-4 inches easily. It is at the full extent of rise. I drove it to the dealer this morning to show him - and make an appointment. His immediate diagnosis - the load/level sensor must be whacked and has caused the backend to stay up so high. its like you did an emergency stop, and the tail never came down. Only I didnt make any emergency stops, it is also possible it is from a road construction sitee i passed through, and the suspension dropped down to handle a deep rut, and locked in that position.

    either way - she goes in on wednesday - by then it will probablt lower agian, as the last time took 3 days as well to return to normal.

    It is , however , very unstable going on corners - you can actually feel the sway to the rear now. . . going slow till service - ill report back on what they found.
  • bdreggorsbdreggors Member Posts: 143
    Well, I haven't experienced that (and hope I never will), but I have seen it many times, especially on older Town Cars and Roadmasters.

    My neighbor had a '93 TC until they traded it for an Impala a year ago and they were having some electrical problems throughout the car. It culminated with them backing out of their driveway--into the gutter--and the rear-end springing up 5 inches! Quite a shock to them! They later found out that the electrical glitches caused the problem with their load-leveling gear.

    Best of luck in solving your 'nosedive' problem!

    P.S. You could always put some huge tires on the back and make it a 70s hotrod :)
  • homer2000sseihomer2000ssei Member Posts: 159
    Yea - i have had that one thrown at me several times by the guys at work. . . . if i didnt love my swirled rims - i might consider it (for a minute).
  • homer2000sseihomer2000ssei Member Posts: 159
    The delaer replaced the "load/level" sensor and I cant get the backend to jack up anymore - and yes I really tried.

    they also replaced the gas door lock actuator for the second time in 2 years.

    now, i discover a new noise it has to go in for.
    i can hear it at very slow speeds (parking lot) as i turn the wheel from one direction to the other - there is sort of a "clunk" sound coming from my side of the car and in front of my feet.

    any guesses before the dealer starts in on it.

    p.s. where is the power steering fluid container on the new models? i looked quickly and couldnt spot it. (sheesh)
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    Now that the hot weather has arrived, I'm using the A/C in my 2000 Bonneville and I notice that although it performs well during highway cruising, it is doesn't seem to come on as strongly as I would expect when the car is first first started up or driving slowly. It seems to take quite a while - even with the Recirculation mode engaged and the fan on high - for the air to become really cool.

    Do others with recent Bonnevilles find that the A/C blows cold right away or not? I realize this is the new variety of coolant and perhaps that makes a difference - but I'm curious what you others are experiencing.

    Ken
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    What you describe Ken is the way nearly every GM vehicle I have driven has behaved. (I think I once rented a Corsica or Lumina or Cutlass Sierra - I don't remember - that had ice cold A/C, but that was unusual.) My A/C works well at cruising speed but it takes awhile to get cool in hot weather (which in Florida is always). Leather seats don't help either.
  • fantascpfantascp Member Posts: 175
    Ken,
    I have the same problem- i called my dealer- the newer cars (since 1992) have a different coolant- R134A as opposed to the older cars- R-12coolant that was destroying the ozone layer-
    according to the maintainance manager at the dealership, if your AC is keeping the inside of your vehicle about 20 to 25 degrees colder than the outside temp- its working fine- Somehow, if the temp outside is around 100, 75 seems a little too warm yet as far as i'm concerned!
    I questioned him on how cold it should be because my 91 Buick Skylark cranks out the AC VERY COLD- but then thats from the R-12 Refrig system-
    and he said that i'll never get the Bonneville as
    cold as the Buick because of the coolant differences.
    Hope this helps.

    Chuck
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    That the issue then is of how much cooling capacity they build into these vehicles. My 1995 Suburban also uses this new type of refrigerant and it will blow you to the arctic circle! It has two systems actually - front and rear, but even turning on just the front system will blast you with cold air like a meat freezer. In fact - I've noticed that the low setting on that system is a higher fan setting than I had on high in my old Grand Marquis and it is a quantum leap beyond the Bonneville as well.

    Thanks for the inputs, everyone. I guess I won't pursue this issue.

    Ken
  • theicemantheiceman Member Posts: 736
    2 points - I agree that the air's not ice cold but it does happen to be cold enough for me. It's probably worth having your dealer/mechanic check out the system to make sure it's fully charged etc. Failing that, use the "recirc" for the first few minutes until the car gets nice and cold.
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    One interesting thing to check with your dealer would be the a/c charge level. The underhood label says 2.0lbs and the service manual says 2.2lbs. I wonder if 10% more would make the car a little cooler.
  • boosted1boosted1 Member Posts: 90
    We have had our 2001 Bonneville for about 3 months now. With the first few hot days that we experienced we were very disappointed in the A/C system. Using the "auto" mode set at 70 the fan would stay on high and the car wouldn't really cool off inside. I took the car in and they agreed that it didn't seem right but the system was charged properly and when controlled manually the car got very cool inside.

    Since then we have been turning the settings to 60 degrees and controling the system manually. At some point I will take the car back and see if they can find anything wron with the interior climate control system.

    I own other cars with R-134 that are ice cold.
  • ginman3ginman3 Member Posts: 11
    Dennis, some people fork out the big bucks to get that look and here you go making the dealer get rid of yours. Just can't please everyone. Maybe if the dealer would put in a cutout switch for the sensor, you could have Pontiac's version of a low rider by switching the system on and off quickly.
    Just trying to be helpful.
  • fantascpfantascp Member Posts: 175
    iceman- thanks for the advice- we'll use re-circ then switch over- unfortunately i didn't get the climate control when i purchased the car- so i can't regulate the inside temp.
    Interesting that others have newer vehicles with the R-134A Refrig that get their cars very cold- dispels what my service mgr is saying about how cold it should get!
    nothing etched in stone that says he is right!!!
    Thanks for the info everyone.

    Chuck
  • homer2000sseihomer2000ssei Member Posts: 159
    No habla espanol :)

    it was getting distubing. . . .i would be sliding forward in my seat on hard stops. . . gotta stop cleaning them for a while . . . .

    cut-off switch . . .dont these things have enough buttons and switches already ?
  • snicklesnickle Member Posts: 147
    I have no real problems with the AC on my 2000 SSEi. The way I see it the temperature setting is a little vague. On hot days I set it to 60 until the car cools down and then move it up to 68 or 69 and I am happy as a clam(polar bear). Changing form 2 lbs to 2.2 would definately make a difference. My 95 camaro's ac would not perform well at all, unless it was fully (overly) charged.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    My 95 Bonneville SE with 52k has been skipping for several months. Most noticeable when under load. All scheduled maintenance has been done by the dealer since new. The dealer has changed the plugs and wires twice, rotated and balanced the tires, (no kidding), because he thought that was what we were feeling, but it still skips. The dealer is stumped. Anyone got a possible fix for this. Otherwise this is a great car, still original tires and brakes, and no other problems.
  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    There was some talk on this board recently about surging under load; usually while accelerating onto a highway merge. A tap on the brake was the remedy. Maybe whoever it was that posted the reply will reiterate the cause and cure.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The tap on the brake pedal causes the torque converter clutch to release. It's not a remedy. You're probably feeling an engine misfire induced by the additional load of the tcc. The most common cause is spark plug wires, followed by plugs and ignition coils. Tcc operation raises cylinder pressures which in turn requires higher secondary ignition voltage. That's when weak ignition components tend to start breaking down.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Pardon my ignorance, but what is the Tcc?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Torque Converter Clutch, a device which mechanically locks the normally fluid driven torque converter turbine to the converter housing. Eliminates turbine slippage, fluid shear, and heat generation. Typically results in a fuel economy increase of 2-4 mpg and lowers transmission operating temp.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Thanks, I'll watch the tach next time it starts to skip.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I had a '91 Bonny with the same problem, I replaced a lot of other stuff b 4 finding out it was the coils and ignition module. I would look there first. The parts cost me around $200 in '96 so the prices may have come down a bit. Get NEW coils and module only, used one may end up with the same problem in a short time, besides most large chain auto part stores offer lifetime warranty on those parts.
  • rooster1967rooster1967 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    I'm not a Bonneville owner, but have been trying very hard to find a good used copy to purchase (1997-1999 model years). I've been unsuccessful, and I thought I'd pass along some of what I've found to look out for: oil leaks, louder-than-you'd-expect rattles/noises coming from the rear passenger door area/back window, and worse-than-advertised gas mileage.

    In all cases, I've test driven the cars and spoken with the previous owner. The highest figure anyone reported getting on the highway was 23 mpg. I know the EPA gets its fuel mileage ratings going downhill with a 50 mph tail wind, but 23 is a far cry from 30.

    Also, it seems oil leaks rule the day. Six of the eight cars had a relatively severe oil leak problem, and two of these six had tranny leaks as well. Taking a couple of the cars home for an extended test drive, and leaving them set overnight on my driveway proved this.

    I don't get any satisfaction about saying these things. I'd had my mind set on buying one, as I'd admired the car for years. Maybe one answer to my problems is to take my search out of southeast Missouri. In any event, it's made me look differently at the car.
  • rb8225rb8225 Member Posts: 33
    Rooster-

    Don't give up too fast. I've been driving Bonnevilles as company cars since '92. I bought the '92 SE when it went off lease, and my son is still driving it with about 150K miles on it. It has had the usual stuff replaced, but nothing major. My '95 SE had one of the oil leaks you mentioned, and it proved fatal at around 40K miles. The lease company towed it away, never to be seen again. My '98 SLE just went off lease, and I bought it for my daughter to drive. It's been a good car since I've been driving it, the only problem was that the radio quite at 29K miles and was replaced under warranty. I now drive a '01 SSEI (I've peaked out!) and will probably buy this one as well for someone in the family. In all the time I've been driving Bonnevilles, I don't think I ever got over 23 - 24 MPG. I still think that's pretty good for the car's size and performance.
  • theicemantheiceman Member Posts: 736
    we appreciate you sharing your findings with us. Like Robin, most Bonneville owners I know report very minor problems only (although he was fortunate that the '95 was a lease) and even CR doesn't report significant problems for most years of used Bonnie's. My '00 SLE is a little fresh for me to be talking about reliability but I'll be keeping a vigilant eye on things to be sure.
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    Talked with a friend yesterday before seeing roster's post, and he was talking about a recent highway trip were he was stuck in traffic with out mving for almost a hour and a half and it caused his gas mileage for that trip to drop way down to 28.4mpg. (1997 Bonneville SE 40th Anniversary (#52225) with approx 54k no oil leaks or other problems).
  • bobhalvbobhalv Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Bonneville ssei that we have leased for 3 years and have loved it other than it has been backed into twice (we are thinking of painting a bullseye one the hood). We have not had any problems and seems to get good gas mileage. We have 48 k miles on it and am thinking of buying it at the end of the lease for 12,500.
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    Sorry to hear about the bad luck with finding a Bonne. I've got a '92 SSE and have had no oil leak problems...had some of the usual stuff replaced and some A/C problems. I average 25-27 mpg in my daily commute (75%/25% highway/city) and have gotten as high as 30.5 mpg on straight highway driving with a full trunk and back seat.

    I look at all these ads today that tout some cars in the Camry size as being good on gas with 25 mpg highway and look at my nice big Bonne and just laugh.

    Campo57
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    My '95 Bonneville has been a great car except for the afore mentioned skipping problem. On trips we average 28-29 mpg, there has never been any kind of leak from the car. At 53k the underside is dry and clean and the garage floor is the same. There has never been a squeak or rattle, and here in the rust belt it's perfectly rust free after 6 winters. On a scale of 1 to 10 this car is a 10. Take what you read in CR with a huge dose of salt. I also owned an '89 Grand Prix, which CR rated as poor, with sloppy handling and poor performance, as well as being very unreliable. It handled like a dream, ran like a scalded cat, and had 187,000 miles when I traded it in. The lady who owns it now loves it and it's pushing 300,000 miles. Not bad for a car CR said to avoid.
  • ginman3ginman3 Member Posts: 11
    I just had to reply to this one. The 96 that I traded for my 2000 never gave me a minutes worth of trouble. In 70,000 miles, I literally never spent a dime in repairs on it as it was absolutely flawless in terms of reliability. As far as fuel economy went, I generally averaged 26-27 mpg in the summer and 1-2 mpg less in the winter with a mix of highway and town driving, admittedly more skewed towards highway. On a pure road trip, however, I don't think I ever got below 29 mpg even under the worst of conditions such as a head wind. One time with a 25-30 mph tail wind, I got 36 mpg.
    Now the 2000 is a different story but then, it isn't an apples to apples comparison because of the supercharger. I have occasionally gotten about 27 mpg which is the EPA estimate but those were under ideal conditions. It also has under 10,000 miles on it and still might loosen up a little as it ages (unlike humans who generally stiffen up as we age).
  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    I'm on my 5th Bonnie and have put 90,000 - 120,000 miles on all of them. I've had the typical minor issues over the years but never an oil leak. I've never averaged less than 20 miles to a gallon on a tankful (87 octane) and have seen 28 under ideal conditions.
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Member Posts: 24
    Bought my 1999 Bonne. as a used rental with 23k miles. I was delighted to find the body/color style I liked with a model that seats six (60/40 in front) since I have 4 little ones (I lobbied hard with my wife against a van!!).
    Anyway, two years and 25k miles later, the car has had NO problems so it looks like a good purchase so far. Actually, the only area I've been slightly disapointed in has been the handling. I realize the Bonneville is a full sized sedan, but I expected it to be a little more 'nimble'. I have driven Lumina's (although slightly smaller) as rentals before and was impressed by the handling and assumed the Bonneville would be similar; feels 'boaty' at times.
    Anyway, a couple comments/questions to throw out:
    I sometimes get hesitation/delays in accelerating when I go from say 30-45 mph down to a stop or slow turn and try to accelerate again. Any clues?
    Fuel filter? Injection cleaner?
    One small problem I have when I first purchased the car was wind moan in the cabin. The dealer suspected the car could have had an windshield replacement during it's rental days, and if the installation is less then stellar, you get stuck with wind moan( they put some sealant on the edges which helped a little). Anyone else have this problem?
    My tires are the factory installed Goodyear Eagle LS variety. At 46k miles, I'm thinking ahead to what kind of replacement tires I should purchase down the road. Anyone have any thoughts? I hear Goodyears can be overated and overpriced. I don't mind spending for top quality. Just curious of what some good options could be.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    At 53k I will be looking to put new tires on my Bonnie before winter. When it comes to replacement tires I have been using BGF TAs ever since they first came out around 1980. In my humble opinion they are the best all around tire available today. I know BFG is now owned by michelin, but the tires are very different. I've had 2 new vehicles with Michelins, and no thanks, I think they suck.
  • theicemantheiceman Member Posts: 736
    Go to tirerack.com and see what other drivers say about tires that will fit your Bonneville. Very useful to create your short list. I actually like the standard 235/55/17 Eagles RS-A's but might upgrade to an 18 in. wheel for summer and leave the 17's for winter wheels.


    According to Tire Rack, the 235.55.17 size means the shortlist for me is:

    Duplop SP Sport A2

    Goodyear Eagle RS-A

    Bridgestone Turanza Z Revo

    Michelin Pilot HX MXM4

    Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus


    Whichever tire meets your needs, read the survey results - for example, the Michelin Energy's get high marks for quietness from real owners.


    And you might be interested in this piece: Grand Touring Tires.

  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the good sites for the tire info.
    I guess your 2000 has a different size then my 1999 (makes sense since the 2000 changed to a more sport type sedan).
  • ymandjymandj Member Posts: 10
    Some time ago dashboard and headlights on my '96 SE all of a sudden started to go off after about 5-10 minutes of driving. If I pull dimmer switch -they turn on again.
    I replaced my dimmer switch and connector but the problem remains: after a couple of minutes of driving I hear a slight click and lights go off.
    And if I pull dimmer switch -they turn on again.
    Can it be a problem with the sensor that controls
    auto on/off?
  • eric311eric311 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Bonneville with 20000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed that a small line of paint has peeled off from the hood. I also noticed a small area around it had small bubbles. Today after driving for about 10 miles I noticed that all paint has peeled off from the area that was bubbly yesterday (the size of about 2 quarters). Sounds to me like defective paint. I do not know what else could have caused this. I never used any chemicals on the car and I live in New York city so I do not think this is weather related.
    The paint has also come off my 88 Bonneville leaving white marks all over the car and especially on the roof. But this car has 120,000 on it so I cannot complain.
    I am wondering what might have caused this on my 98 car. Also what do you think would be the best way to fix this considering that I still have the original 3 year warranty (repaint the hood, replace the hood, repaint the whole car).
    Thank you.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Not sure but my guess is that you have either a dark blue, light blue or dark red color car. In any event GM will repair the bad parts only, not the whole car. Take it in and they will fix it under warranty, and they will give a loaner till the work is complete. I had a friend with a S-10, and brother in law that has an Astro, same problem. Only bad part was that the rest of the truck peeled after the warranty was up, dealer was pretty much like OH WELL. When sold the S-10 had a perfect hood and left fender but the paint was jumping off the rest of the truck. If you can push the issue get the whole car done.

    The cause is not properly preparing the surface for paint, the white spots on the new and old bonnies are shiny aren't they?! The primer didn't get sanded and the paint couldn't stick to it. I am not sure why only certain colors do this, but I know the prep work is the root cause.
  • homer2000sseihomer2000ssei Member Posts: 159
    I sold my 94 Bonne - and the guy I sold it to started to get paint just peeling off in several areas.. . . . . he was able to get the memo that covers bad paint prep - and is negotiating with GM now - they will likelt be repainting a large part of a 94 - - - so start with a dealer and let them know you know there is a known problem. . .
  • smokeman1smokeman1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Bonny and it seems to have a slight vibration in the front when I drive it. The alignment is perfect and the sterring wheel is relativiely calm; but I was wondering if this is normal with these cars. Also, I never had a car with anti lock brakes. Is it also normal for the car to pulsate when I apply the brakes? Thanks
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Member Posts: 24
    Don't think it is normal for brakes to pulsate upon application. My 99 Bonne brakes do not perform like that. On another vechicle I owned had a brake pulsation problem that was do to brake rotors needing repair. I'd have yours checked.
    Good luck.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    When was the last time you rotated and balanced your tires? This is 90% of the vibration problems I have had. If the tires are old and getting low on tread it could be the belt got bent in a pothole or something. In either event start there, and while they are balancing have them check for a bent rim that is the another 7% in the puzzle. The remaining 3% is made up of, sticking brake caliper hardware, bad steering components, tie rods and ball joints, bad struts & struts mounts, bad or bent CV shafts. All expensive repairs. So start with the obvious and if the wheels and tires check out find a GOOD suspension tech. and have it looked at.

    The brakes need to be looked at. More than likely it is from warped rotors, and 95% of the time if you have them machined they will warp again in a few thousand miles any way, so it's best to replace them. If you can do front brakes get new pads and rotors. Rotors are fairly cheap $15-$20, and a good set of pads should run around $25-$30. Another thing that I recommend is proper torquing of the wheel to the hub, if one lug is tighter that the others it can also warp a rotor. Also get a caliper hardware kit, around $9, it has the o-rings and sleeves the bolts go through, and this will restore the caliper to like new operation. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  • kzmkzm Member Posts: 55
    When I had my 1997 SSEi it exhibited the vibration on the hwy at between 60 and 70 mph. I had the wheels aligned twice, inflated and finally replaced altogether from Good years to Perilli's. The problem remained until I traded it in for my 2000. I hope you have better luck.
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    I have also noticed a slight vibration at around 70 mph on my 2000 SE - it just started recently after having the wheels rotated. I haven't driven the car as much lately - will have to see if it continues.

    Brakes seem fine - no pulsing, or any other problem

    Ken
  • sbartonsbarton Member Posts: 1
    I love my 94 Bonneville SE but it has a nagging problem I can't figure out. The engine sometimes idles at a higher than normal RPM (1500 RPM instead of the normal 1000). I can feel the car straining to go when stopped at a light. The car will slowly accelerate down the road without your foot on the pedal. It is more annoying than dangerous but I want it fixed! Trouble is, it only happens every few times I start the car. Most days, the first start is fine but subsequent starts may trigger the problem. Shutting off the engine and re-starting usually fixes the problem.

    I took it in to the dealer last summer to fix it. They looked, found nothing wrong, and charged me $70! I guess the problem never happened while they had it. Funny thing is, the problem went away for 6 months or so and then returned. Any suggestions of what it could be? Thanks.
  • starfallstarfall Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 99 Bonne that was also a rental car. I have been experiencing the exact same hesitation on turns and curves that you describe in your message. Have you discovered any possible causes? Or hopefully a solution? Please post.
  • ceca894ceca894 Member Posts: 6
    It seems the 4th gear/overdrive problem has a number of solutions. Some people solve the problem with ignition replacements, some with tranny fixes. I tried major tune-up (plugs,wires,air&fuel filters) seemed to help some. My local Pontiac dealer just diagnosed my surging caused by valve body in tranny. Service bulletin 2/97 noted oversized bore in original. It is being serviced 7/10 ($1165 worth!)Their tranny tech says he has done about 10 of these w/ good success. I noticed post #99 ejm99 had this done free of charge by dealer. I'm curious to know if it cured the problem and how he got GM to cover repairs. I'll let everyone know about this repair.
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    GM Service Bulletin #99-06-04-045 has revised calibrations for the fuel computer to correct a concern of low power or stumble when accelerating in turns or straight line. A dealer should be able to do it in an hour or less. Posts on Edmunds boards show most dealers charge between $60 and $85 for a minimum of computer work.
  • thoughtnaughtthoughtnaught Member Posts: 2
    I've read half of the 400 posts so far, and while I was almost concerned about buying a "good" condition Green 94 Bonne SE with 117K for $4K, I'm still on track. I'm going to check for the symptoms I'm reading here, and have a shop inspect it for me..

    ..BUT any other TIPS would be GREATLY appreciated.

    Hoping to be a proud new owner of a nice used Bonne. I'll keep you posted..

    Thanks, TN
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the tip (I posted on 383), I'll have my dealer (fortunately, a decent place for service so far) check it out.
    #397 - hadn't found (or searched to hard) for a solution thus far, mainly since the problem is infrequent and seems minor. Either way I was going to replace fuel filter at next service.
    Chevron Techron fuel injector/fuel cleaner also seemed to work well helping eliminate hesitation on my prior vehicle (91 T bird).
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