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Comments
Aside from being careful about keeping the trans fluid level up (for the common reasons discussed herein), does the leak raise any other red flags to anyone here? I intend to have the seal and filter replaced asap.
I doubt I'll 'REALLY' need them, but are the fog lamps on their own fuse? .. with anything else that should also NOT be working right now? If it isn't as simple as a new fuse or switch, I'm wondering if it may be a sign of greater damage or decay.
Btw, the convenience handles in the ceiling (passenger & back) are surprisingly loose and flimsy. Does everyone just live with these or is there a good replacement option?
Thanks for any advice. I'm impressed with the knowledge and experience represented here, without you this group would be just another echo chamber.. (tho I'm hoping *I* don't hear MY OWN echo! ;-)
I have had my local mechanic weld it three times: there is nothing left to weld to any more.
My research has found that there is a technical service bulletin 431013 that may pertain to this problem, but I don't know were to get it and if it is relevant or moot at this point. Did GM offer a remedy. Does anyone have any suggestions/experience concerning cracked hood latch connections.
Thanks
What is the best way to deal with this: is there a fix for the player (a squirt of WD-40 in the right place) or another remedy. Having the steering wheel controls clearly complicates matters.
I had a Olds Trofeo that developed problems with its steering wheel contacts once. The solution (straight from GM) was to turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times to clean the contacts... guess what... it worked...
Bill
I do open the rear windows 1" as I drive away after being parked in the hot sun. I feel this helps to vent the trapped hot air. Within minutes the windows are closed and the car becomes comfortable.
WANDAT, I would take a similar model from your dealer's lot and drive it in the hot weather to compare. I would not let your dealer off the hook if you are unhappy. Ask him what the temperature should be in your car, get a thermonitor and tape it to a head rest or place it by your feet. Document your issues! Call GM! I had great success with GM over an issue with an Olds custom cruiser that the dealer tried to ignore.
I am hoping that they will eventually have a recall or service bulletin to fix this problem.
Still love the car though.
My fan also comes on high when first trying to cool the hot car but it does settle down in a reasonable amount of time; even in 90 degree mid day sun.
Example: 92 degrees outside and extremely humid. I get in my car and set the air to 70 and press Auto button for Auto AC. 50% of the time (especially in higher humidity) the fan runs to half speed and stays there. Of course it is still very hot in the car but the fan never goes above half speed. If turnt the air down to 60 degrees the fan still stays at half speed. One night I drove for 20 minutes like this to see if it would eventually adjust. It never did and I was forced to turn the AC up manually (Which works fine) to keep from getting completely soaked with sweat. IS ANYONE HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS?
P.S. Does anyone else think it is stupid that the AC system forces you to push the Recirc button every time you start the car? Everything else in the vehicle stays the way it was when you shut down. Why not the Recirc on the AC? Oh well, just a [non-permissible content removed].
I have recently purchased used 95 Bonneville SE 72 000 miles. I am very happy with this car but a few days ago the engine sound was changed. With RPM > 2000 I can hear a strange sound /noise, something like gears like if you back track fast. I have no idea what it comes from, everything works as usual but it is disturbing - the engine was very quiet.
And the second silly question - can anybody please guide me where to find power steering fluid reservoir. The manual says below the alternator and behind the accessory belt. Bu I spent 15 minutes searching for it and found nothing what could be any kind of reservoir.
Thank you
The system is set to operate on defrost if there is no vacuum to the system. Your car is probably "bleeding" off the vacuum through a broken hose or check valve. Once the car is started the engine supplies enough vacuum to over come the problem.
A quick check would be to open it up on the highway (full throttle) and hold it for a while. This should cause the engine vacuum to drop and the air will switch to blowing out of the defrost vents.
Long post but I hope I have helped.
Stay away from that first repair shop.
Lewis 21
KZM
Let us know how it goes.
I'll let you all know want the deal is. Fortunately, They're taking it before the forecasts around here are calling for rain!
KZM
My warranty is up soon - and i am seeking any info you have on this . . . was it something your dealer knew about, or did it require hunting and searching . . .
I can get it to happen also if Im stopped, and just turning the wheel back and forth....
The car goes in tomorrow - I appreciate getting the info on the TSB's - I hate when they try to blow you off by saying they couldnt find it, or "never heard of that" - it is much better to go in informed . . .
it saves a second trip and/or wasted time.
Thanky you.
"I just hope that they don't have to order scarce parts for the repair."
How about NO PARTS for repair!
The verdict is in, I need a new window regulator and motor for my rear right side passenger window. The service mgr told me that if these parts were anywhere in the U.S. he would order them, but they're not! GM has to build them! These parts are unique to that side of the car, they have parts for the other doors but not for where I need them! Fortunately, they raised my glass to protect my interior from the elements! He said it would only take an hour to install once he gets the parts. No charge of course!;-) Now all I have to do is wait for their call.
Yahoo! Yipee!
Peace!
KZM
KZM
kzm: What a hassle; Who'd ever think they don't even have your part made. Reminds me of when I was trying to get a Dodge master break cylinder actuator a couple of years ago. Chrysler was going through so many of them, they told me they were still building them. Hope they get that part made soon.
Oh, and we did hear the noise too, so we believe you !
problem is - next time they see the car, it will have the new smaller pulley and 7" K and N cone filter on a custom intake pipe - - i think they'll notice it . . . then i wait for them to try the ole - -these modifications void the warranty . . . . .
i suggest they dont try that one .
pessimistically yours - -Homer
Dan
As near as I can conclude is that the climate control system is meant to get you to your preferred temperature but not to shock you with extremes - if you want these, you're just going to have to "request" them by manually adjusting the temperature setting. Oh yeah, and that recirculation trick does speed up the process to - just don't forget to turn it off once you get there (although I believe it automatically reverts back to fresh air after about 10 minutes - or at least it should).
I always hit the recirc button if I spot skunk road kill up ahead.
I'm planning a family trip in the Bonnie to Quebec City from Boston. Any tips or advice on $ exchange etc.? You can E mail me at
fii@massed. net
Thanks, Stephen
As for your trip to Quebec City, the major Canadian banks are usually better than the US banks (many US banks don't even stock Canadian currency) but I do not know the difference in transaction fees. When my brother comes here from LA, he comes with US dollar travellers cheques and exchanges them at one of the major Canadian banks. Check out the rates at the largest of the Canadian banks, The Royal Bank foreign currency converter and see if you can do better Stateside. You'll probably find that most things are cheaper in Canada except gas - so stock up before you cross the border.
I live in Chicago, but the sun still gets the interior plenty hot after sitting in a exposed parking lot all day.
Maybe some of you experiencing problems have a small leak in the system.
I am very satisfied with my a/c system and usually have the temp at 72. 76 would not be cool enough for me. It is possible that pturner's thermostat is calibrated higher than mine.
I think that some af our cars have a bad interior temp sensor, or something similar.
We will probably tinit the windows soon to help the temp stay down inside.
Still waiting for the TSB to fix this problem.
Still love the car.
I've also heard of a coolant leak near the belt tensioner assembly in the '95 3.8 block and I believe that there's a TSB on a different leak near the throttle body. These don't sound like yours - if you're losing 1 quart a day and there's no puddle, it's internal.
I've also used Barrs quite successfully - although not with a leak as severe as yours (more like a Litre every 6 months). The only downside I've heard about with this stuff is that it can clog your heater core - if passages are already restricted with mineral deposits. Try out the heater and make sure it works. The good news: I've found that Barrs holds up quite well in the long term but if the problem comes back every 6 months or sooner, you're only buying time with Barrs - and not much of it at that.
On another note: I wonder if the blown blower relay was caused indirectly by the loss of coolant - the previous owner would have had a devil of time keeping that car warm in the winter as there wouldn't have been enough coolant in the heater core. Perhaps s/he set the blower full blast to compensate. That kind of constant use CAN tax relays.
If the rest of the car's in great shape and you got a good deal, these are problems worth fixing and the sort of thing that you have to expect and accept when you buy used. I hope your luck improves - the '95 Bonnie is a nice set of wheels and worth the effort keeping it roadworthy.
Good luck
After 3 minutes, the security light goes off and I can try again. This problem has been going on intermittently for about a year. It has recently gotten much worse and sometimes I have to wait for 2 or even 3 cycles (6-9 minutes) before it will start. I have to turn the key to the extreem end of its travel before it will work. I took the car to a repair shop on Friday. They could not find the problem and asked to keep the car over the weekend. Does anyone have any incite into this problem? I would appreciate any help.
expensive when you have duplicates made? Sounds like either the chip in the key is flakey or the contacts in the ignition switch that need to make contact with the chip are dirty or worn. It probably gets more expensive after that, wiring, computer problems? Hope this helps as I'm no mechanic. BTW, thanks guys for the help on my coolant problem. I think I got it stopped.
Under the hood , right at the lip where the seam was folded under and welded - the paint started to bubble a few weeks ago. Looked just like peeling paint, before the surface would crack open. A fingernail would be able to dig into it, and there was an impression that come sort of corrosion was building up inside those bubbles. It had just started to work it's way from underneath the hood, to the very lip edge (at the front) and it was obviously coming up with plans to spread more.
I clean the underside and engine compartment faithfully, and this came up pretty quick. Mine is the 2000 - so it might take some time - but do have a look.