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Humm...Because they realize that US custumers have enough self respect NOT to pay a car 8,000 more for HID and color combos. FYI, the limited in Canada is approx 34,300 plus 15% tax, so good deal if under 38,000 OTD. They add a few guizmos and claim it justifies the price difference. I for one will go south to buy from US.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2009.html#history
That blue light is meant to shine downward and provide ambient lighting, allowing you to better see the controls on the dash without hindering your nightime driving vision. This was first introduced a couple years ago on Tribeca, but they use a red LED in that model. Red should be more effective than blue since red is the color that least interferes with night vision. You could probably order the Tribeca's LED & simply swap colors... I'd probably do it if I owned a snazzy new Forester.
* I've seen people recommend a first oil change at 1,000 miles because the oil quickly gets dirty as new parts break in. Is this a good idea? (I saw a post somewhere that a Subaru dealer refused to do an oil change that early.)
* I've seen people recommend going to synthetic oil at 1,000 miles or the first scheduled oil change. If you go syn, should you do so as early as 1,000 miles?
* Is there a good recommendation as to which synthetic helps the most with Foresters?
I didn't notice that, but that's probably because both of my test drives were during the day. I don't think I've seen one at night, come to think of it.
I'm not sure if that's still true, however.
I don't recommend going to synthetic that early, though. They said to wait at least 10 or 15k miles before doing that, to give it time to break-in.
I don't like the 3750 or 7500 intervals. They're hard to keep track of. 22,500 doesn't exactly ring any bells.
Just make it 5000 miles for everyone and fuggedaboutit. Much simpler.
While they're at it, add a "Maintenance Required" light that turns on every 5k miles as a reminder.
That was one good thing that came out of the Toyota sludge fiasco - my new Sienna has that.
Fortunately the controls (especially the HVAC, save its dial pointers) are well lit with red LED's.
Exchanging / Replacing that roof console LED is not trivial, as you will be cutting and resoldering wires to do it.
Also, the Driver Side window controls are illuminated at night.
I'm guessing that you should be able to go to the next size up (or down) to get a wiper from K-mart or whoever. I changed wiper sizes a long time ago on an old subie for the front windshield, going up. The result....more of the window was wiped in a storm -> better visibility. Hope this will work for you.
The reason you want to change your oil early is not because of the oil. It has been decades since break-in oil has been used. The reason is because of the filters, and this is especially with the small filters in use today. During the first 1000 miles there is a lot of material that gets in the oil as parts break in, and there is always casting material and core sand in a new engine. All this stuff gets trapped in the filter, hopefully, so it gets loaded much faster than with a broken in engine. It is to get a fresh filter into the system that you want to do the early oil change. The fresh oil doesn't hurt either, so it is of no sense to just do the filter.
When engines were not using so much aluminum I did an experiment. I cut open a filter that I had just removed at 1000 miles. I then stuck a bar magnet inside. It came out looking like a long "chia pet" because of all the filings and stuff stuck to the magnet. That told me a lot and validated my methods.
I then do my next change at 4000 miles. If the oil level has not gone down very noticeable over that time I switch to Mobil 1. If I have had to add any oil, even 1/2 quart over that time I then go to 7000 miles before I switch. Engines break in better with conventional oil because of increased friction. All engines today have much tighter tolerances so they break in faster, and some manufacturers ship with Mobil 1 now, but I still like the idea of running for a while with conventional oil. Once I go to Mobil 1 I change at 4500 +/- intervals, again mostly because of the small filters. Now that I don't drive as much I just do it twice a year. I have found 4000 miles to be adequate to switch to Mobil 1 with the 5 Foresters my wife and I have had, and also with my brother's 08.
I have used Mobil 1 for about 20 years, and I use it in all my motors, including lawn tractor, rototillers, mowers, snow blowers, etc. I stick with it for a couple of reasons. One is that I have very good luck with it, and two, and the reason I started with it, is because it can be mixed with regular oil if needed. This makes it easy if you are ever somewhere away from home and find yourself needing oil. It also allows for switching back to conventional oil if ever desired, as some people who have bought my used vehicles have done. No issues. This is not true for all synthetics, some cannot be mixed which adds a potential degree of difficulty. I have had people buy my vehicles and go well over 200K miles with them, including a Ford Escort and a Dodge Daytona. These 2 were bought by the same person and he continued to use Mobil 1.
I have told this story before, but I used to have a Dodge Dakota, with V8 and a few performance pieces. At about 50K miles I had to go into the dealer for a TSB. They had to pull off the valve covers and intake manifold, so I asked to see the insides while apart. I looked inside and everything was whistle clean and looked brand new. The mechanic saw me checking out the lifters and rocker arms, looking for scuffs and wear in general, especially at the pushrod ends. I saw none, and the mechanic joined me in the looking and asked me when I got the new engine. I told him it was the original, and he said, "then you must use Mobil 1." When I told him that I did, he said that those were the only engines that looked like that.
I sold that truck, and the present owner has over 100K on it and it still purrs like new. Actually it snarls like new, because of the performance exhaust.
Also, I see many people are saying an oil change at 1k miles would be good? I'm in CT is that an intensive driving area? What oil is recommended or should I just bring it to my dealer to change?
Thanks
That's unfortunate. So much for that brilliant idea.
Thanks for the info, Kurt.
You can't go wrong with the dealer changing the oil, except for price and not getting the satisfaction of doing it yourself. If you do it yourself note the little swing-away flap in the underneath plastic protector/ shroud, that they provide for access to the oil filter. Nice little feature and a big help. On my early Foresters I had to take off the entire shroud.
You want 5W-30 oil, and a major brand if you do it yourself. I like Penzoil or Castrol. I would suggest that you always use the Subaru filter, it is of high quality and can be bought reasonably on the web, especially in case or half case lots. Also note that the new generation of small oil filters take a different strap/claw wrench than what many people have in their toolbox.
Something else I suggest is to fill the new filter to about 90% or 95% with the fresh oil before you put it on. This speeds up the new oil circulation process on the first start.
More questions: Will the dealer tech normally partiallly fill the filter routinely? If I take my own Subaru filter in (assuming I find a good deal on the Web) will the dealer use it or insist on using one at their price?
I would also doubt if you could bring your own filter in. With the competition from quick oil change places the dealers usually try to keep the price low, but part of the profit is the parts. A friend of mine used to own a couple of gas/service stations, and he always told people, "you don't bring your own eggs to the diner for breakfast, do you?"
This could all be different depending on where you go, so never be afraid to ask. I know of some dealers that will "install" your synthetic oil if you bring it in and just charge you a couple of extra bucks for "handling", along with the disposal fee for the old oil. That's because they don't sell synthetic oil and they still want your business, but they do sell filters.
And by the way, you shouldn't have any problem finding OEM Subaru parts on the web at a good price. There is an excellent network, unlike say Toyota for example. There are at least 4 or 5 major Subaru Internet resources that all have good prices depending on what you are looking for, so shop around. Many are part of a Subaru dealership themselves, and have chosen to grab some of the Internet market.
It was a bit of a pain until they added the access flap for the filter. I use a claw wrench on the end of an extension so I am able to do it without burning my hands. Of course, maybe they changed the down-pipe too.
Be careful about the crush washer on the drain plug. I have never seen one without one, but from the factory they are hard to see because they put black paint on it and the head of the plug. They paint the oil pan after the plug and washer are installed. You need a small screwdriver to remove the factory washer, prying it away from the head of the bolt and breaking the paint seal.
Early on I learned the hard way by putting one on and not thinking there was one already on there to remove. With 2 on the plug I got a slow drip of oil that I noticed the next day.
There is a good picture of the painted factory washer problem but it is on another forum so I don't know if I could give the link.
I also don't know if something is different, again, about the 09, but I doubt it in the case of the washer.
What part of MA are you in? I am in the southeast part.
Thanks for the tip re: painted crush washer. I will certainly research the painted crush washer issue and keep an eye out for leakage. I'll have a flashlight with me during the next oil change, too. It didn't make sense to me that Subaru would ship without a crush washer, but I really couldn't find it! A quick look-see just confirmed that I have no leakage and that there is precious little shrouding under the engine. If you find any photos of the '09 from head-on, you may see 2 small pieces of black plastic under the bumper cover, sort of under each end of the grille area. That's all that Subaru wrote with regard to under engine coverage.
I am 10 miles west of Boston as the Mass Pike takes you!
I am looking for a small SUV to replace my '07 Sentra when the lease runs out in the '10 model year. I like the Sentra and am considering the Rogue but had 2 Subies in the past so I want to give the new Forester a chance. Here are the items missing from the '09 that I would like to see on the '10 model:
1. At least another gear for the automatic. Or a CVT.
2. Push button start/keyless entry (available in Japan - why not here?)
3. Bluetooth (standard or optional) without the need for the nav system. And while you're at it, a better looking base audio head unit.
The Japanese model also has woodgrain trim on the center console that looks nice, there is too much silver plastic right now. And the jet black water-resistant fabric seats with the orange stitching down the middle are very cool looking. I also like the XT gauge cluster. Overall, a very cool look that I would love to see here. With the red exterior, please. Just leave off the goofy fender-mounted mirror if you don't mind.
I have never changed my own oil, let alone on a Subaru, but I have heard horror stories about unfamiliar technicians at quick-change places draining the differential instead of the oil pan. And then sometimes overfilling the crankcase because they did not notice what they did. Not saying that is what you did...just made me think.
1. The automatic rear view mirror has a shroud over the wiring. You can gently pull the outermost rectangular shroud downward so its prongs no longer push under the headliner.
2. Inside the upper light console (you have to remove two phillips screws inside the sunglass holder and then gently pull the whole console downward), there is a large black vinyl tube that can rub against the top of the light console, especially on the passenger side because the tube is being pressed downwards by a foam cylinder surrounding the main cable.
I used some silicon spray inside the tube (to keep wiring from rubbing against the tube) and then a thin layer of very slippery plastic sheeting or possibly ultra-thin foam to separate the vinyl tube from the top of the light console.
So far, doing both of these seems to have stopped the really loud creaks.
2. Push button start/keyless entry (available in Japan - why not here?) Don't want it.
3. Push button start/keyless entry (available in Japan - why not here?) I would want it, but I want AD2P because I have 2 gig mp3 card on my phone. Without the AD2P, don't need the bluetooth.
Bring back the temperature gauge
What differentiates a Forester from a Rogue or RDX to me, it the amount of high-end trim and gadgets. I would rather the Forester XT fulfilled it's mission of being an affordable CUV, with a moderate amount of upscale touches, reliable, safe and goes like all stink, similiar to the Forester STI, with good handling. I"ve seen videos of the Murano stuck on rollers as it's CVT and AWD system struggles. Comments from the winter months from SH-AWD owners seem to indicate SH-AWD is better as a performance enhancer. Bottom line, the Forester doesn't want to become something it's not.
I DO wish the Forester had a tire pressure gauge and perhaps dual climate control.
What are your thoughts about the rav4 - 6 cylinder?
Recently on a trip to the cottage, I had 5 adults in the car (i.e. about 900lb payload) and was trying to climb a steep, gravel road.
Seemed like every time I launched, I couldn't get it to climb. I was in first gear and the hill assist was holding the car still on the slope. I would launch in first but there wasn't enough torque at low speed to get the vehicle up the hill. So I raced the engine and slipped the clutch and managed to climb. ...not a good thing to do to the clutch...
Did the VDC/Traction Control affect this? Should I have turned it off?
Also, I've seen in a number of online videos, the Forester climb steep hills quite slowly. Is what I'm seeing the automatic transmission version? Can't see doing this in the 5MT.
Maybe I need a lesson is properly driving a manual transmission. :sick:
The Japanese XT cluster still has a temp gauge.
I want Bluetooth for the phone not for music. Toyota has a decent implementation in the Camry that maybe Subaru could borrow.
Push button start (or at least keyless) is one of those things that once you have you can't imagine living without. Remember when those remote keyfobs came out? People said "how hard is it to unlock your car?". It's just a nice convenience and why leave it out in the US when they have engineered it already for Japan? My guess is they were sensitive about breaking the 30k price barrier for a loaded XT Limited. I think Nissan is on the right track with offering Bluetooth and Intelligent Key all the way down the lineup, at least as an option.
X Premium 5MT PZEV
Very cool.
For the hill situation, yes, I would turn off VDC.
I learned this with my Sienna, actually. It's FWD, and we had 2" of snow. Just two inches! The front wheels would slip and the TRAC would kick in and kill whatever momentum I had going. It really struggled. :sick:
Our 5MT Legacy drove right up, barely noticed the snow.
TPMS in Canada? I don't think it's any different than ours in that regard, but I'm not sure. Anyone?
volkov: I'm with you on the heated seats, in fact the AWP is one main reason we wanted the LL Bean or Limited. Wish my Miata had them.
The good ones, at least.
Little things I noticed after taking a 2nd (or 3rd) look:
* double-stitching on the seats
* electronic latch on the rear tail gate (soft close)
* lights still dim rather than turning off abruptly
Bob mentioned the roof rack can carry 175 lbs now. That's amazing.
You pointed out the lights.
I'm glad the oil filter is more accessible now, too.
Makes sense to turn off the VDC in this case. So in the video on Youtube that shows the 2009 Forester in sand with wheels spinning, this means that VDC was turned off? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yp1PkXizeQ
Agreed--after owing Hondas/Acuras so long it's refreshing to get a new take on things. My "little surprises" so far are:
--the speed sensitive volume control on the audio system; I thought this would be mostly a gimmick, but it's actually noticeably softer when stopped
--the storage slot for the retracting cargo area cover under the load floor is a great idea; who needs it taking up usable space when carrrying large items?
--blue lights in the rear seat cupholder; not tremendously useful, but cool
--the mute button on the steering wheel audio controls, and I like how it fades the sound down rather than cutting it off abruptly.
A lot of thought went into this car, to the extent that you say "cool idea" a lot more than "what the hell were they thinking?".
I agree, with the notable exception of the front-console "cupholders," which are more like Chinese-take-out holders. What exactly *were* they thinking?
I am searching for adapters or inserts to work inside those things so they will actually hold a coffee cup steady. I have also e-mailed Subaru and urged them to offer a good adapter for these square holes. I got a reply back thanking me for my suggestion.