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We have several dealers (but no major chains, apparently) in Beaverton OR that were listed as carrying them.
Looks like they aren't cheap (seem to be around $200 per tire).
Are there any published comparisons of the WR to other similar tires?
Nokian also makes a summer tire, but last thing I need on Forester is something with __less__ winte4r traction than the Geolanders.
Save for the mountain locations, we don't get a lot of deep snow in Portland. We do have a lot of ice, though (freeze - thaw conditions) in lower elevations.
Sounds like WR's have more winter grip but trade off some summer handling precision.
Research continues....
Good luck with your search!
I just brought home a 2009 2.5X limited a few days ago. I was wondering what people got in terms of MPG on their first tank of gas. My limited had 10 miles on it when i bought it and now im at around a hundred with mostly mixed driving with a slight tilt towards slow city traffic. Im only getting about 13 mpg. When should i start seeing the MPG creep up?
Thanks
The second loaner I got on Saturday (my WRX was in for 37.5K service) had over 4K on it and was averaging 24.6 mpg.
Bob
The shop I visited yesterday, while closed, had a car out front fitted with Nokians. They certainly have a lot of sipes - reminded me of Blizzaks.
Also looks like Yokohama makes a similar tire, the W*Drive. But I'm not sure it's drivable in the summer - the ads for it suggest winter only useage.
The Outback's Potenzas' were one reason I lost interest in that model (as was the Consumers Union video of the related Legacys' tail-happy behavour in high speed manuevers).
Phil
I will note that the mechanic took it for a drive as part of the warranty service, put on maybe 10 miles, and the overall mpg (over the 1000 miles) dropped by 0.4. On that tank, it dropped dramatically, at least 6mpg down to 24.4 but that tank had only 30 miles on it before the mechanic drove it. It is climbing back up steadily now that I'm driving it again..
I guess how you drive it makes a huge difference.
Rear seat recline button fell out -- This has happened. Doesn't seem to be secure, just like it fits in the hole with nothing holding it.
Dash rattle, passenger side, or behind stereo -- This doesn't happen all the time, but we head a squeaky rattle from somewhere in the center or passenger side of the dahs.
Sunroof/headliner -- Not sure if we have this issue because it's hard to tell where the sound is coming from.
Rear reclining seats rattle over bumps (locking mechanism not very secure) -- We think this area is the main source of noise.
Questions: What kind of mystery noises are others hearing? What kind of luck have others had getting their dealers to take care of the items mentioned above and other things? What's reasonable to expect?
I know that hunting down rattles can be difficult, but it looks like Subaru might have some knowledge of these already. We are about to take ours in for a first oil change and want to have a list of defects ready for the dealer.
1. Rear seat recline button fell out - they ordered new one before I came in. Appears to work fine now. It is secure now. (I believe a piece of the plastic, to hold it in was missing/broken on the original part.)
2. Dash rattle - on far passenger side - when they took it for test drive, they didn't hear it. They thought it was sunglasses in ceiling holder. I'll have to bring it back again later, but without anything in the car of mine that can make noises...They said to pay attention to temperature, etc. It has only made the noises when going over bumps on dirt roads...I'm not on them regularly, so it may be a while before I bring it back.
I don't have the other issues listed. My other issue though is how easily the plastic is damaged all over the car with hardly being touched. They are ordering and will replace new door panel as rear speaker was damaged when I got the car.
In my prior Subaru,while stopping on a washboard-surface road, braking triggered the ABS system which can produce the shakes, vibrates, and noises I think you are describing.
In a week or so (to give you dealer time to actually put the order in), call your dealer and ask for a VON (vehicle order number). That's the number assigned by Subaru to the car you ordered. It should be listed with your name. Your dealer should be able to give you an update by then. If not, call SOA with your VON and ask for an order update.
Make sure your dealer gives you a VON. Otherwise, you are only relying on the dealer to give you a car out of their next allotment of cars, and the color, etc might not even be in that allotment without a specific order.
The best SOA was able to tell me was that there are many Limiteds on the water and ours should land by the end of the month and make it here for delivery within 1-4 weeks afterwards.
Overall my mpg is about 27.1. This is a city/hwy mix of about 60/40. I live in
a somewhat hilly town, and have noticed this affects the mpg significantly (as
with any vehicle).
I just returned from an all-hwy road trip of about 700 miles (Portland-Spokane)
and I avg'd 29.1 mpg for the trip. This was fairly loaded (2 passengers, some
camping gear, and 2 bikes on a trailer hitch carrier). I feel confident if I didn't
have the bikes I could've made 30 mpg.
One thing I have noticed with the M/T is that the engine RPM's are kind of
high for 70-75 mph cruising - right about 3,000 rpm. My experience has been
that the Forester gets optimal fuel economy when cruising about 60 mph.
It seems to me that the engine has plenty of power (torque) to support a
higher (lower?) gearing ratio in 5th gear, and the hwy cruising gas mileage
would be greatly improved if revs were about 2,400 rpm at 65 mph.
Or maybe a 6th gear?
Does anyone remember the electric overdrive the old (60's) Volvo coupes had?
You would flip the switch when cruising on flat hwy stretches...
See if you hear the rattle / squeak when the vehicles wheels are going into a pothole / descending. Also, does the rattle / squeak go away when the car has been sitting in the sun for awhile?
You can further check by, when driving and you are hearing the sound, to place and cock your head so that your left ear is aimed at the roof and right ear's aimed to the center console. If the rattle sounds louder in left ear, it's in the roof.
If so, you may have the same issue my XT had; roof wiring rubbing against the sunglass/dome light housing.
If dealer won't fix, it is fixable by 0. Unmounting the dome light housing, then 1. Adding a spacer between the housing and the vinyl-covered wiring (I used very slippery plastic sheeting cut to fit), 2. rubbing a silicon-covered cloth against the wiring __and__ the side of the dome light housing pressing against it. I did all of this and have not heard any roof squeaks / chrips since.
IMHO, this is good especially when traveling, so you don't have to unload the car to get to the tools. (As long as you don't need them for a tire change. :sick: )
I wasn't braking, just driving along in town about 35 or 40mph.
Could the ABS system have gone off on it's own, or could something be loose in there to set it off? ie Is this a possible warranty item???
This is my first car with ABS brakes. Did you need to do anything about your issue with them?
So far, I have only heard it at elevation (ie typically cooler (70's) temperatures) after driving for a while on rough (though not wash board) dirt roads. When it started, it continued for quite a while. It stopped when I hit the paved road which was not bumpy at all.
I've have to check on the "descending" question. On the roads I was on they were just generally rough, not individual potholes per se and not wash board.
To me, the sound seems like it is coming from the dash above the glove box not too far from where they put the tweeter on the door. I've only heard it when I am the only one in the car, so don't have a passenger to verify and be closer to the noise.
Thx for info on dome light housing...perhaps it is that???
I do have occasional creaks and rattles elsewhere, but the one in the domel ight seems gone for now.
I will email my dealer in a few days for the VON. I am glad to hear that a large shipment of limiteds are on the way.
Both those characteristics should improve mileage and handling (the WR's making MPG worse is not encouraging).
But:
Nokian has no size of that G2 version to exactly fit the '09 Forester XT :sick:
(there's no 225 x 55 x 17 size. ).
Only thing in 55 profile is a 235 x 55 x 17. I don't know if the '09 Forester can wear rubber that wide, or if that's enough difference to screw up the VDC / VTC. Comments??
I finally took delivery last Thursday and I feel that it was worth the wait!
http://www.nokiantires.com/en/tire_wr_suv.aspx?season=summer
Also, the WR SUV also has the 50K wear warranty. I have looked on Nokian is the ONLY mfg with an all season that meets the specs for a winter tire (mtn + snowflake) AND has a 50K warranty. Which, as I said, you'll probably need although it would be interesting to see if the WR SUV tires wear any better than the plain WR's I had on my Golf.
FROM THE NOKIAN WEBSITE:
TREAD WEAR LIMITED WARRANTY FOR THE NOKIAN WR, WR SUV, VATIIVA, i3, NRHi
WHO IS COVERED BY THIS SUPPLEMENTAL WARRANTY?
This warranty covers only the original purchaser, and only for as long as the tires covered hereby remain mounted on the vehicle described in the Mileage and Rotation Record. This warranty is in addition to all other Nokian warranties, and covers the Nokian WR, WR SUV, VATIIVA, i3, NRHi, purchased in North America after January 1, 1993 and used in non-commercial services.
The covered tires are warranted as follows:
WR, WR SUV, – 50,000 miles; VATIIVA (P-Metric) – 60,000 miles; i3-T – 80,000 miles; i3-H – 60,000 miles; i3-V – 50,000 miles; NRHi – 50,000 miles.
NOTE: All tires Speed Rated V/Z/W/Y except V-Rated i3 tires are not covered.
Here's some feedback I got from Nokian itself (their phrasing) aboug the WRG2 .vs. the WR:
The g2 compound is better-less noise – handles better-better in snow and slush—overall 15 % better over WR –drive with confidence —all I can say Kurt I have been in the tyre business for 50 years aNd the NokiaN winter best in the world-I manufactured Firestone world wide and would not sell anything I do not believe in
Interesting. But finding a G2 sized for Forester is proving difficult; there are fewer versions.
Subaru tests each model with the equipment that comes standard or is offered as an accessory for that particular vehicle. As a result, we cannot recommend any tire size other than 225/55 R17 95H,which came standard on your Forester. We do STRONGLY recommend that you replace them with the same size/style as originally equipped. We also recommend that you refer to the information in your owner's manual regarding tires.
So we'll see if Nokian ends up with a G2 tire meeting Subie specs. :confuse:
This is a bit long as it is a fairly comprehensive list. I know I found it helpful. Thought others (not the carheads, they already know it all
While we do not recommend any specific aftermarket brands of cleaning/detailing products, we can advise you as to what types of products in general should be used.
INTERIOR:
GLASS AND CLEAR PLASTIC
A foggy film on windows can be caused by smoke and/or gases released by vinyl and plastic materials. Use glass or plastic cleaner without ammonia, but not wax. Ammonia can damage non-recommended aftermarket window tint, and it can dry out rubber and plastic parts.
PLASTIC/VINYL
Heat, cold, and direct exposure to the sun ages plastic interior pieces such as dash coverings, seat trim, and parts of the center console. Hard or soft plastic or vinyl? The answer to that question determines the cleaning method and the means of protecting the surface. For hard or shiny surfaces, clean with a mild all-purpose cleaner and protect with plastic polish. (Use metal polish on interior metals.) Treat them like paint. For soft surfaces and matte finishes, use a penetrating protectant – non-glossy.
Caution: High-gloss protectant on vinyl seats, floor mats, and foot pedals will make them dangerously slippery.
WOOD
Treat real wood in a vehicle just like wood products in a house – clean and polish with wood-care products.
LEATHER
Leather is like your own skin. Just as you clean and condition your own skin, give a vehicle’s leather the same care. Use cleaning and conditioning products intended for leather, not plastic.
CARPETING
Weather-related, road, and off-road debris tracked into the vehicle by shoes and boots requires cleaning. Over time, it becomes imbedded and the carpet is harder to clean. Be prepared with heavy-duty carpet cleaners, brushes, and vacuums. The hard-to-reach areas require special tools like vacuum crevice nozzles.
ENGINE COMPARTMENT:
PAINTED SURFACES
The painted surfaces of fenders and other pieces under the hood oxidize and fade. Just like the exterior bodywork, they require cleaning and waxing.
MATTE SURFACES
Non-shiny plastic and metal parts age, fade, and dull, too. They require cleaning. Use a non-glossy protectant.
ENGINE
Warm the engine to soften grease and oil collected on its surface, which allows engine degreaser to work quicker. Degreasers will strip away wax if it lands on painted surfaces, so be careful not to overspray the surrounding area (i.e., the hood and fenders).
ALUMINUM
Uncoated aluminum parts turn dull or develop a whitish residue over time if not treated. After cleaning, use a mild metal polish to restore their appearance.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
Connectors are susceptible to water intrusion, so protect them with plastic bags rubber banded around them prior to spraying anything in the engine compartment.
AIR INTAKE
Prevent fluids from entering the engine’s intake system and damaging the engine by covering intakes and/or air filters with plastic bags.
BATTERIES
Chemical reactions between metals and/or acid cause corrosion around battery posts. Spray with battery cleaner and wipe clean the battery, brush the battery posts and connectors, and use battery protectant to not only clean but maintain proper operation.
MISCELLANEOUS MAINTENANCE
Lubricate hinges, hood struts, and cables to keep them operating properly.
Note: Prior to cleaning under the hood, we recommend that you check your Owner’s Manual.
EXTERIOR:
PAINT
Vehicles are painted in layers – base, color, and clearcoats. The clear outer layer is approximately two to three mils thick. It oxidizes, turning dull, and it suffers from scratches. Mild polishing compounds can buff out all but the deepest scratches. Use a chemical cleaner or cleaner wax to counter the oxidation and haze.
When washing a vehicle, use cleaners formulated for it – not dishwashing detergent. It strips off existing wax, which leads to excessive oxidation.
WHEELS
Clearcoat often is used to protect the finish on wheels, too. So use car-wash cleaner to preserve existing wax.
If brake dust requires brake-dust remover, use wheel cleaner – but only when the wheels are cool. Heat could cause a chemical reaction with the cleaner and cause permanent stains.
Most wheel cleaners contain acid that can destroy paint finishes, so avoid overspray onto the body.
TIRES
Tires deteriorate over time, too, particularly with exposure to sun, precipitation, and chemicals used on the roads. Once cleaned along with the wheels, tire protectant helps preserve the sidewalls.
GLASS/CLEAR PLASTIC
Windshields and headlamp covers can develop tiny chips and nicks over time. Use glass polish on the windshield and clear plastic cleaner on the covers to help restore them.
RUBBER/MATTE PLASTIC
These materials age from exposure to the elements. Be sure cleaning products are designed for rubber and plastic to avoid damage, then use protectant designed for rubber and non-shiny surfaces.
Again, your local Subaru dealer can provide more details on cleaning, and many dealers offer products specifically designed for Subaru vehicles.
I am glad to hear that your happy with the car and that it was worth the wait. the only options i got was the tow hitch, bumper cover, and all weather mats. I figure I can get almost anything else later.
I was also thinking of getting the sirius radio and wanted to know if it would be possible to get a lifetime subscription to a sirius radio thats in a car.
I do not know anything about the Sirius but you can always call them to find out.
As far as the color goes, I have only seen 2 on the road and they were silver and red. The Dark Grey really pops in the sunlight because of the metallic flakes in the paint and also looks good with the platinum interior.
Phil
I noticed that you got a forester limited for $600 below invoice. I was given a price of around 25,300 for the limited.
Since invoice for the car is 24,330...did you get it for 23,730??
Seems like an amazing deal!
What price did they give you?
I also got the dark gray metallic. Very cool color as it changes in the light. there are purples, blues and greens in the metallic. I guess sage green is the most popular color right now. But I liked the mysteriousness of the dark gray.
From reading some web articles and my own experience, it seems Subaru is conservative wrt fuel gauge indications.
In my case a "half tank" indication means using around 6-7 gallons of gas. The tank's 16.9 gallons, leaving around 10.9 - 9.9 gallons.
I'm not complaining; far worse to have an optimistic reading only to then run out of gas !!
Why the heck Subaru didn't do that with the moonroof glass is beyond me. :confuse:
The film, a 3M product, dramatically cut the heating of the interior.
Only drawbacks are ammonia-based cleaners will fog it, and it's not as resistant to scratching as glass is.
Hello Subaru, this is a no brainer.
Now to add the rear bumper cover, another item that should have been included in the stock package....
I am glad they didn't tint it too dark. If you live in Arizona, you might want it dark year round. But, if you live in the northern climes, or where it gets cold in the winter, having the "lighter" tint is better to allow the sun to keep the car warmer in winter.
I found at K-mart a cling type of tint material that goes on pretty easily. I'm hoping it stays on, as I live in a dry climate. But you had the choice of 5%, 20% or 35% of light allowed through. First glimpse of it on is great! And it is only $13. :shades: Well worth a try for the summer months. You can also save it after you remove it in the fall, and put it back on in the next summer. It is a pretty tough material, so looks like it'll be good for quite a while. And there is enough to do at least 2 moonroofs. If you have the base model, you can do your rear side windows.