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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • I got a 2k ES and I have not gotten any letter about a warranty extension on the MAF. Only one was the ignition coil recall. Should I have gotten the MAF letter as well. Let me know if I need to contact mazda about this. Thanks.
  • Can you (or anyone else) give me some guidance on how to replace a defective doorlock actuator? And about how much does the package cost? We can take this to private email is you like...
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I think that only affected some 1.6L Proteges. I don't think the ES with its 1.8L engine is affected.
  • Thanks for the info. Got about 5 mos left on warranty so I want to keep up with any new(old) developments concerning such issues.
  • I received the letter regarding the MAF recall, but right now its more of an occasional nuisance than a problem.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    after bieng completely warmed up, when I shift into first or reverse, the rpm drops to like 600, bounces up to 750 and then comes to 700 but still fluctuating little bit. I never saw this before. My idle was always very stable.

    The problem is also more apprent when putting it in reverse. Also see this happening when the car comes to stop at a traffic light.

    Any ideas what is going on?
  • What type of engine do you have, the 1.6, 1.8, or 2.0?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    it is a 1.8L ...'99 ES
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Sounds like the symptoms my 1.6L was experiencing. My dealership shop confirmed it was the MAS that was failing ("reading low", even after they adjusted the idle, cleaned the throttle body etc.). I just had to pay for the diagnosis portion (about 30 minutes). The MAS and labor associated with replacing it was covered under the extended warranty.

    You might want them to diagnose the issue. It only took the technician working on my car about half an hour. They charge $75/hr, so it was about $38 including some consumables and new parts. It might be you just need to have the idle adjusted or the throttle body cleaned (they did these to eliminate these as causes).

    BTW, anything that causes the MAS to read low will cause your mpg to fall (I was getting something like 22-25mpg...I usually get 28mpg on mostly local driving). The fuel/air mixture is too rich. This isn't good for your catalytic converter or oxygen sensor either.
  • h109h109 Posts: 36
    I have had the car for litlle over 2 years now and notice one thing for sure after getting the MAF replaced a couple of weeks ago. The shifting is much smoother, especially between the first and second. The hesitation has noticably reduced. As I do not know much about car mechanisms, I always blamed the hesitation on the low power of the 1.6L. The mileage though, has always been about 31-32mpg with mixed driving all this time.

    When I went in to the dealership after my CEL came on, the service manager told me that I "could've" got it replaced earlier.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    looks like the MAF to me too....
    i avg around 22-24 with 80% city driving.
  • It depends on exactly what it is you have done to your intake. If you still have the original air flow sensor, and it is failing, then they should replace it without issue.
  • I dont see an advantage to doing it yourself if you are not sure what you are getting into. You will have to pay for the new part regardless, and the dealer shouldnt charge you more than an hour for the labor. ($65-$85) If you break something, or put it back together wrong trying to replace the actuator you will be the one having to pay for it. If the dealer should break something, or make a mistake, they will pay for it. If I could tell all car owners one thing, it would be "pay me now or pay me later!"
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If I could tell all car owners one thing...

    Not all but maybe quite a few.
  • ram22ram22 Posts: 15
    I have a 2001 Maxda Protege LX 2.0 auto trans with 21,000 miles on it.
    It has recently developed a problem where the steering wheel vibrates/shakes when I go above 65 mph on the freeway. This vibration was not present earlier and the car was very smooth.
    I feel that this problem started after my car got stuck in some thick snow in front of my apt once or twice and we pushed it out a bit and handled it roughly. I don't know anything about cars. What could be the reason for this ? I have not yet asked the dealer. Kindly shoot an email to also.
    Thank you very much !
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    It sounds like there's snow stuck inside your wheels causing an imbalance. Get the snow (probably ice by now) and the vibrating should stop.
  • ram22ram22 Posts: 15
    How do I check and remove the snow/ice from inside the wheels ?
    Do you mean to say the inner surface of the wheels under the car ?
    Will a carwash help to get rid of the snow/ice ?

    Kindly let me know.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    If it's above 0 C (32 F) then I'd say a car wash would probably work.

    If you have steel rims, I guess you could take off the hub caps and knock the snow out.

    Hope that helps!
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Mike is right: You must have snow INSIDE the steel wheels.

  • unless you are a tech or get your vehicle serviced at the dealer regularly, then it still applies...........
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    not all home mechanics are incompetent. I am not a tech, but I assure you that I am more competent than the "certified" techs that do my vehicle maint. The only advantage of a dealer tech, IMO, is access to TSBs, WDS units and factory manuals. I am not putting down any competent technician out there, but having been to several Mazda tech training courses gives me a pretty good idea about the average technician.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    my only use of "the avg tech" is to do what I want to get done for 3 reasons:
    1. he has all the necessary tools at his disposal
    2. and the factory manuals, tsbs, etc.
    3. and I usually do not like to get my hands dirty ie no grunt work( I only like to use my brains)

    in all almost all the case, i end up going to the service center and clearly indicating what I want to get done. I don't go there and say "dude, see if there is anything wrong with the car. if there is fix it". No sir.
    I go and say "Dude, this is what is wrong with my car. So fix it".

    needless to say, i benefit from the much needed "inside" help from Malt.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Stuff like oil, oil filter and air filter changes.

    Usually, they have the least experienced techs do these jobs, as they're fairly easy. After having a couple of drain plugs cross-threaded and the wrong amounts of oil put in (and having lost 2 of 4 screws on my air filter cover), I decided I'd had enough of these types of mistakes and started doing them myself.

    Usually, more experienced personnel work on the more challenging jobs. They still make mistakes though, so document, document, document. For instance, as preventive maintenance, I had all the wheel bearings replaced on my '89 323 somewhere past the 100k mile point. The tech forgot to put the grease seals back on, resulting in leaking grease and grease all over my wheels. Careless. What really ticked me off was the dealership service department didn't apologize and charged me for fixing their mistake. I avoided them for something like 2 years after that. They've changed service managers since then and have been better, so I take my car in for stuff I won't do (like coolant changes, belt replacements (timing, and the acc. belts in my Pro...much harder to get at than in my 323).
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Me too. I do all of the regular maintenance myself. Some people think since they bring their car into the dealership that they will have some Mazda master tech doing their oil change. Lol. It's the same people that used to work at Jiffy Lube, etc. I know because I used to work with those people.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I know condo assocations and apartment owners won't allow any kind of automotive servicing on their premises, not even washing (some of them).

    Some homeowner associations won't let you do car work outside your garage either. Some folks just have nothing else to do. It's not like I'm putting my car up on cinder blocks.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    but my experience with mazdas gives my customers more of an advantage. TSB's, and factory tools are only part of what a good dealer tech can offer. Anyone can pull TSB's off the net, and aftermarket scanners are enough to fix any 2002 or older vehicle, but these items can be costly in the wrong hands. Working on mazda's exclusively for 15 years has given me the knowledge and training to know your car better than you and allows me to find things wrong with your car that you didnt even know were a problem before they become a big one. I dont care if chikoo is a rocket scientist, he wont be coming into my store and telling me what is wrong with his miata when it has 3 different evap codes in its memory. I'm sure you guys/gals can change spark plugs and remove the blower motors to clean out debris, but experience is what fixes REAL problems.
    thanks for reading this "DUDES".
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    is that you make too many assumptions. I have never and do not take any of my cars to somebody to be fixed unless: a) it's free (warranty) or b) I don't have or don't have access to (rare these days) the equipment. Yep, I've paid for a couple alignments and I don't know anyone with a boring block.

    Some people were raised with amazingly practical parents. In return, the ones I know were recently rewarded with a free valve job for their parenting efforts.

    I never stated that your experience wasn't valuable. I'm sure you can find a problem faster than I can. However, that doesn't mean I can't find a problem. I take real issue with people that feel that if you are ourside their profession you are suddenly not capable.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    But there are many who do and like doing it (although many wouldn't own their own diagnostic tools...but many own engine lifts and some even have vehicle lifts...overkill for me). I've a few friends who completely disassemble and rebuild cars (even recent ones, and I mean down to the single components). Not my kind of hobby, but it is theirs.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    You say you have been to several tech training courses, however you are not a tech. This doesnt make much sense to me, but you seem to have a grip on automotive technology. This is why I discounted your group (techs) when I made my original statement. If you insist that you are not a tech, (yet you have been to several tech training courses), then your access to these courses gives you way more than knowledge than the above average home mechanic and I will make an exception in your case.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I was talking about regular maintenance. Oil changes, transmission fluid changes, spark plugs, air filter, radiator fluid changes, etc. The Mazda dealer cannot do these things better than I can. I have more confidence in myself doing these things than whoever they would have doing them at the dealer. I worked with a kid at Jiffy Lube that went to a local Mazda dealer to work. Why would I pay the dealer to have the kid that I taught how to change oil, etc. to work on my car? That's insane. If my check engine light goes on, you can figure it out. That's all I was trying to say.
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