I have a 2004 Accord with XM radio and navigation. It seems that whenever I turn the right-hand dial to tune the XM radio to a different station, it just keeps the XM radio to a certain category, aka rock, sports, or christian. How can I fix this problem so that I can tune my XM radio from channel 4 (40's) to channel 200 (whatever that channel is) without using the voice-activated navigation system?
My SRS light recently came on and judging from previous posts it seems like it may be because my battery is getting weak (the battery is nearly 5 years old). How can I reset the light myself once I install a new battery?
The nearest Honda dealer is almost 200 miles away, so it is a real inconvenience to have them do the work.
Sraver, A fellow stereo nut! A couple of questions for you... -Is this problem new? ie. you have had the same set up for 6 months. -What gauge wire are you running to your cap/amp? -How many watts/amps total power is your amplifier drawing or rated @? -Are you using an oversized, deep cycle, or stock battery?
The reason I ask is that your voltage to your cap/amp will vary greatly due to these factors. You may have the warning signs of a soon to be dead battery or alternator. I had a similar problem that left me stranded
FYI. The problem with the car going dead after sitting idle (intermittently) has been 'solved.' The dealer tells us that the XM satellite receiver was draining too many amps. (We often did not use the car for 3 - 8 day stretches; it went dead twice during these occasions [all within the first 1800 miles]). It is being replaced. We'll see if that was the issue.
Next issue: [please keep in mind this is under 2000 miles]. At about a 70/30 [city/highway]split, we're getting 19 mpg (this is a stick 4 cyl EX-L). It does run and shift smoothly. Thoughts?
I've heard for years that gas mileage increases over time for a lot of cars. I think you'll get on average at least 21 mpg over time in the kind of driving you describe. I get at least that with my '98 4cyl manual.
Following up on my post #8417 about the brakes going weak:
Originally, the brake pedal on my 2004 Accord began sinking to the floor and I was losing stopping power. At that time I wasn't sure if it was all in my head. During the test drive, the Honda tech thought I was insane to be driving on it and scolded me for not bringing it in sooner.
The fix was to bleed the brake lines (twice). I had never opened the brake lines and no leaks were found in the system. When I asked how air got into a closed system, the service guy looked at me like, "why are you asking questions?" *grin*
About a week later, I swear the pedal was sinking again. After about ten days I was sure. I took it in again. The same tech worked on it. He replaced the "ABS/TCS/VSA modulator or modulator/control unit" and bled the brake system again. I haven't bought any service manuals for this car yet, so I don't even understand the premise of how the ABS system works... so I don't know what that thing is that they replaced or how it was leaking air into the brake lines.
I do know that the replacement part costs about $724, labor was $155, and that the total job rang up to about $950... so I'm sure glad it was under warranty.
I've been driving the car for a week now (about 1000 miles... which is typical). No sinking... yet.
Wasn't trying to be rude...not at all. It's just that what you were describing isn't typical for a Honda. they typically have VERY smooth clutches.
And, there are people, believe it or not, who don't know how to drive a stick even though they have for years. I ride with these people sometimes. They will slllllippp the blazes out of the clutch when starting out or between gears or they will shift way to soon and then comment the car has no power.
In your case, it sounds like there is a problem. This doesn't make your car a lemon either.
You have set the "Mode" to category instead of channel. Easy fix, hit the Audio button on the right side of the display. With the XM displayed, hit the "Mode" on the touch screen, which is located on the left hand side of the screen. This will change the mode from category to actual channels, so you can now turn the knob and it will progress thru the channels rather than category
My dvr seat shifting to right on left hand turns is fixed. On second time brought in, the dealer said seat panel was broken and replaced that and seat track. It's solid now.
""It's just that what you were describing isn't typical for a Honda. they typically have VERY smooth clutches."
The clutch is smooth when you press it. The RELEASE (after shifting to 2nd gear) is the problem (at least in my case) -- too difficult/unintuitive to make a smooth acceleration all the time. I have seen posts for other cars that describe a similar problem. Despite the adjustments or workaround to avoid the stutter or hesitation or, the clutch is still a little too sensitive when released after shifting to the 2nd gear. I don't know how smooth others drive, but I know what I want -- a smooth clutch operation and acceleration -- no unnecessary clutch sensation or forward thrust/momentum when the clutch is released.
Your point of view is clear -- that because a problem is not "typical" of Honda that you point to the driver as the cause of the problem.
"And, there are people, believe it or not, who don't know how to drive a stick even though they have for years."
The implication is obvious. FYI, I'm not one of those who "slllllippp the blazes out of the clutch when starting out or between gears or they will shift way to soon."
My wifes '89 accord is acting up. It will suddenly stall when at a stop, or while driving. Just had old alternator replaced and battery is fine. Happens 1-3 times a day and then fine for a week. Guess I'll pull all relays-fuses out and re-seat them? Gas filters recently changed. Will disconnect and reconnect any/all electrical connectors behind the dash this w'end to see if that helps.. Any ideas for this intermittent behavior? Starts up fine immediately after stall too..Thanks. Ger
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My symptoms were almost exactly the same as yours. I would get to a stop light and the car would start to roll a few seconds later or i would loose power during braking. I thought I was not pushing the pedal down enough. Few days later it got bad, like really bad, so i took it in. Just got it back and they replaced the master cylinder. So far so good... but they were amazed that a 03 would have had this problem!
I just had the windows tinted at 20% in my 2005 Accord EXLNavi. Now the majority of the time, my Navi shows me positioned 1/mile or so from where I am actually located. After a few miles the Navi will correct itself. I have now come to learn that metallic tint could be the culprit. I am curious if there is a way to correct it without removing the tint or do I need to have my rear window re-tinted with non-metallic tint? Please help!!!
You didnt mention if the 89 is a DX or LX- if so, maybe the carburetor is acting up. My 87 DX has a carburetor and its been a pain to fix- I decided to finally part with my beloved '87, and buy a new '05 Accord. Its tough to get carburetor problems fixed nowadays.
The homelink system stopped working. When I push the button now, it wont light up. I checked for a blown fuse, however I could not locate one. Anyone know where the power source is? Any suggestions would help!
I got my 2003 Accord detailed a few days ago - despite letting the interior completely dry out the interior has developed a strong, stale moldy smell. Any ideas how to get rid of the smell?
In my 02 Accord LX 4cyl coupe, I hear a faint whining noise when I drive between 65-70mph and around 40mph. Its related to when I accelerate somehow because when I take my foot of the pedal it goes away. The noise is not present before or after 65-70mph range besides the 40mph mark also. It is pretty faint but I can hear it when the stereo is off.
I've searched the boards here and some posts have helped and I'm assuming it could be a transmission problem. I've already had to replace the tranny once early on when I bought the car due to hard shifting on hills and from Park to 1st and I really don't want to be forced to replace the tranny again. If anyone has any advice or knows whether or not this is normal please help! I'll be trying to drive another car like mine to see if it does the samething hopefully sometime soon, I'm about 4000 miles away from warranty expiration.
Sounds to me like there may be residual dampness. Take it back to the guys who did it! Also if there is only a bit of moisture under the carpet, you could run your AC with the heat on in recycle mode for 1-2 hrs. Leave the car in a secure area and lock the doors. I found this worked wonders when I left my window open over night in the rain! It only costs $1-2 in gas and is better than trying to get old mildew out
Four month ago I bought 2004 Accord LX 4 cyl. . From the beginning car was pulling to the right and I heard some abnormal clicking noise in the tranny. I went to dealership and they found excessive fluid in the tranny, so they flushed transmission and added right amount. Now car started to make noise, which I can not determine either it comes from the tranny or from engine ???. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The car is a '89 accord lx. This w'end I pulled all the fuses,and many connectors apart and reseated them. Found the high output coil wire leaning against another low dc coil wire where there was evidence of chafing. I secured them apart from each other. Hoping that maybe the ~20kvolts to the plugs may have shorted on occasion to any ground wires and shut down the engine.... Will run the engine tonight and look for arcing from the plugs and rotor wires. Maybe I fixed it, but will find out shortly. Any more suggestions is appreciated. Ger.
the "creaks" are usually headliner related or door seal related. usually when the long Accord body has to flex when going over bumps. my experience anyway...2003 model here.
My 04 LX 4 cyl. automatic developed a very obvious whining noise at 40-45 mph, just after it went into top gear, when the car had about 4,000 miles on it. Service manager said it was abnormal, and had a replacement transmission installed.
The replacement transmission has the same tendency, though not quite as piercing. So, I have a replacement transmission along with the original problem. Very disappointing. I feel like I went backwards instead of forward. The car is good enough overall that I seem to have talked myself into "settling" for the situation, though that's not what I had hoped for from a new Honda (my first).
BTW -- There's a Honda article about this problem on their internal Web system -- titled "AT Whine." AT being automatic transmission.
MORE HELP NEEDED! Today the '89 accord lx engine shut off and as my wife put the car into nuetral to restart, the engine came back to life and resumed running. Still can't figure what is intermittent now.. Thought that the coil to plug output wire rubbing against the dc coil input voltages wire may have caused problems,but those wires are now seperated.. HELP !! Ger
We own a 2002 Accord SE with the 4cyl. We have approx 50,000km so a fair bit of warranty left. I was wondering if anyone has experienced the following on their '02 Accords:
1)Hesitation upon acceleration from a stop 2)A thump upon starting the vehicle, starter thump? 3)Moderatly hard starts (i.e. cranks for approx 3-5 seconds, occasionaly even longer) in the morning?
Any help would be great. I am taking it in next tuesday for a checkup!
My car is in the shop right now for a strange noise + smell coming from the engine. I think it's a drive belt (not timing belt) but not sure.
My question is with the timing belt. I've heard recommendations from dealers to have it changed anywhere from 75K to 105K miles....depending on your driving conditions/environment. I'm in Southern CA and do alot of freeway driving which means stop and go traffic. I would think my conditions are considered 'severe'.
I have never had the timing belt changed (or any belts for that matter). Pretty much only had regular oil changes at 6000 mile intervals. No other 20k service, 50 or 90k service. Car runs like new!
Currently have 91000 miles.
I'm waiting for the dreaded diagnosis phone call from the dealer and wanted to post this quick message regarding timing belt change. Do you think it's necessary at 91000 miles? And is the water pump really necessary to change as the dealer recommends? (The whole job will cost me nearly $800!!)
Changing water pump at the same time with the timing belt makes sense. There's very little incremental labor to do that. The t-belt replacement requires a lot of dis-assembly (at least on the 4-cyl versions.
After 6+ yrs & 91K miles, I think it's time. $800 is a bit stiff. Are there any other dealers? If yes, I would get another estimate. It could be $100+ difference. Make sure they replace all the seals too. And, yes change the water pump too. Save some labor cost.
There is no warning before a timing belt breaks. You could be cutting in front of giant truck on the freeway, and when it breaks the engine will die and you become roadkill. Most of the cost is labor. Therefore, always do the water pump and the tensioners too. Same thing, if you do a water pump, replace the T- belt at the same time. It is a lot less money then a valve job after the valves hit the top of the pistons and bent.
It's hard to diagnose but my guess is that the main relay or fuel pump relay is acting up, (one relay with 2 different names, but the same part. ) It is a common problem on older Hondas and not that expensive. It is located under the steering column, inside the car under the dashboard. You will never locate it unless you have an identical relay in your hand for comparison. Replacement is not too hard, all you need is a 10 mm deep socket and an extension and a ratchet. Don't force anything and don't cut your hand while doing it. Also I would check the distributor, and if it looks corroded and with reddish brown dust under the rotor, it might need a new distributor assembly, which is another common problem on high-mileage cars.
I have a 99 Honda Accord. When attempting to start the car, it turns over, but never cranks...almost like it out of gas. It is an intermittent problem and my mechanic has been unable to recreate the issue. He has come over to work on it twice and it cranks right up for him...then he leaves and it does not crank...very odd. Any idea/suggestions would be appreciated
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
Hi folks, this may be the wrong place to ask this -but I recently was in an accident (my brand new accord of 2 months ago )is now sitting in some auto body shop; being that this is my first accident, I cant seem to understand what the process is - who repairs it ? Does it have to be honda or can it be anyone, do I have a choice in this matter or do I have to accept my insurance company's decision? Any tips would be hugely appreciated- as always, didnt know where to go to but Edmunds Thanks .
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
$450 to replace an alternator?! Is that normal for an Accord??
Swapping out the $85 AutoZone alternator in my old truck took me about 15 minutes. I imagine it's not as easy in the cramped engine compartment of an Accord, but $450??!!
I also have the 2005 EXL Navi. Check your navigation system owners manual. It does mention problems with the navi if you have the rear window tinted.
Have you noticed the rear window defogger works incredibly slow on this car? I swear it takes about 10 minutes to be able to see through the rear window. Has anyone else here had the same problem? My old Acura's defrost worked immediately...it's the only thing I miss about my old car.
I have a similar model (although built to US emissions specs) which I bought about six weeks ago. I noticed an occasional hesitation on either acceleration from a stop or slowing down to about 5-10 mph when I first got it, with only 14,500 miles on the odometer. A trip of about 100 miles at highway speeds seemed to cure it, which tells me your problem might be as simple as slightly gummed up fuel injectors. As a first step I would use a 16 oz. bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner (if you can buy it in Canada, or can get it from somewhere in the US) added to an almost empty tank. Then fill the tank and see what happens after it is used up.
Funny story...This is my wife's car and her father just brought us the spare key that he has had since the car was bought. I did not realize it, but her spare key must have lost its memory?? and it will not start the car, but the normal key will. I would have never thought of this until I read another post about the memory on these keys getting wacked out. In other words, there is nothing wrong with the car...lol Every time my firned came over to work on it, he used the regular key so it cranked. Every time I tried, I used the spare key on my Jeep key ring....so it didn't crank. Oh well, live and learn. At least there is nothing wrong with the car and not it got a tuneup in the process.
Comments
The nearest Honda dealer is almost 200 miles away, so it is a real inconvenience to have them do the work.
A fellow stereo nut! A couple of questions for you...
-Is this problem new? ie. you have had the same set up for 6 months.
-What gauge wire are you running to your cap/amp?
-How many watts/amps total power is your amplifier drawing or rated @?
-Are you using an oversized, deep cycle, or stock battery?
The reason I ask is that your voltage to your cap/amp will vary greatly due to these factors. You may have the warning signs of a soon to be dead battery or alternator. I had a similar problem that left me stranded
Next issue: [please keep in mind this is under 2000 miles]. At about a 70/30 [city/highway]split, we're getting 19 mpg (this is a stick 4 cyl EX-L). It does run and shift smoothly. Thoughts?
Originally, the brake pedal on my 2004 Accord began sinking to the floor and I was losing stopping power. At that time I wasn't sure if it was all in my head. During the test drive, the Honda tech thought I was insane to be driving on it and scolded me for not bringing it in sooner.
The fix was to bleed the brake lines (twice). I had never opened the brake lines and no leaks were found in the system. When I asked how air got into a closed system, the service guy looked at me like, "why are you asking questions?" *grin*
About a week later, I swear the pedal was sinking again. After about ten days I was sure. I took it in again. The same tech worked on it. He replaced the "ABS/TCS/VSA modulator or modulator/control unit" and bled the brake system again. I haven't bought any service manuals for this car yet, so I don't even understand the premise of how the ABS system works... so I don't know what that thing is that they replaced or how it was leaking air into the brake lines.
I do know that the replacement part costs about $724, labor was $155, and that the total job rang up to about $950... so I'm sure glad it was under warranty.
I've been driving the car for a week now (about 1000 miles... which is typical). No sinking... yet.
And, there are people, believe it or not, who don't know how to drive a stick even though they have for years. I ride with these people sometimes. They will slllllippp the blazes out of the clutch when starting out or between gears or they will shift way to soon and then comment the car has no power.
In your case, it sounds like there is a problem. This doesn't make your car a lemon either.
The clutch is smooth when you press it. The RELEASE (after shifting to 2nd gear) is the problem (at least in my case) -- too difficult/unintuitive to make a smooth acceleration all the time. I have seen posts for other cars that describe a similar problem. Despite the adjustments or workaround to avoid the stutter or hesitation or, the clutch is still a little too sensitive when released after shifting to the 2nd gear. I don't know how smooth others drive, but I know what I want -- a smooth clutch operation and acceleration -- no unnecessary clutch sensation or forward thrust/momentum when the clutch is released.
Your point of view is clear -- that because a problem is not "typical" of Honda that you point to the driver as the cause of the problem.
"And, there are people, believe it or not, who don't know how to drive a stick even though they have for years."
The implication is obvious. FYI, I'm not one of those who "slllllippp the blazes out of the clutch when starting out or between gears or they will shift way to soon."
Thanks!
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
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Review your vehicle
Please help!!!
You didnt mention if the 89 is a DX or LX- if so, maybe the carburetor is acting up. My 87 DX has a carburetor and its been a pain to fix- I decided to finally part with my beloved '87, and buy a new '05 Accord. Its tough to get carburetor problems fixed nowadays.
Thanks
Frank
I've searched the boards here and some posts have helped and I'm assuming it could be a transmission problem. I've already had to replace the tranny once early on when I bought the car due to hard shifting on hills and from Park to 1st and I really don't want to be forced to replace the tranny again. If anyone has any advice or knows whether or not this is normal please help! I'll be trying to drive another car like mine to see if it does the samething hopefully sometime soon, I'm about 4000 miles away from warranty expiration.
noises. Am going to dealer. Any thoughts on cause?
engine ???. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
" In your case, it sounds like there is a problem"
I guess I should have said..." With the car, that is, and not your driving style".
There was no implication as you stated.
I guess I missed the part where you said it was when you RELEASED the clutch.
Shouldn't be hard for your dealer to fix.
The replacement transmission has the same tendency, though not quite as piercing. So, I have a replacement transmission along with the original problem. Very disappointing. I feel like I went backwards instead of forward. The car is good enough overall that I seem to have talked myself into "settling" for the situation, though that's not what I had hoped for from a new Honda (my first).
BTW -- There's a Honda article about this problem on their internal Web system -- titled "AT Whine." AT being automatic transmission.
We own a 2002 Accord SE with the 4cyl. We have approx 50,000km so a fair bit of warranty left. I was wondering if anyone has experienced the following on their '02 Accords:
1)Hesitation upon acceleration from a stop
2)A thump upon starting the vehicle, starter thump?
3)Moderatly hard starts (i.e. cranks for approx 3-5 seconds, occasionaly even longer) in the morning?
Any help would be great. I am taking it in next tuesday for a checkup!
Jas
My car is in the shop right now for a strange noise + smell coming from the engine. I think it's a drive belt (not timing belt) but not sure.
My question is with the timing belt. I've heard recommendations from dealers to have it changed anywhere from 75K to 105K miles....depending on your driving conditions/environment. I'm in Southern CA and do alot of freeway driving which means stop and go traffic. I would think my conditions are considered 'severe'.
I have never had the timing belt changed (or any belts for that matter). Pretty much only had regular oil changes at 6000 mile intervals. No other 20k service, 50 or 90k service. Car runs like new!
Currently have 91000 miles.
I'm waiting for the dreaded diagnosis phone call from the dealer and wanted to post this quick message regarding timing belt change. Do you think it's necessary at 91000 miles? And is the water pump really necessary to change as the dealer recommends? (The whole job will cost me nearly $800!!)
Please advise. Thanks in advance!!
Gary
$800 is a bit stiff. Are there any other dealers?
If yes, I would get another estimate. It could be $100+ difference. Make sure they replace all the seals too.
And, yes change the water pump too. Save some labor cost.
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
this may be the wrong place to ask this -but I recently was in an accident (my brand new accord of 2 months ago )is now sitting in some auto body shop; being that this is my first accident, I cant seem to understand what the process is - who repairs it ? Does it have to be honda or can it be anyone, do I have a choice in this matter or do I have to accept my insurance company's decision?
Any tips would be hugely appreciated- as always, didnt know where to go to but Edmunds
Thanks .
Turns out, the noise/smell was caused from the bearings on the alternator going bad. So it's time for a new one. Tech said this is unusual. He typically sees this within 20K miles or not at all. Regardless, it's a $450 bill!!
I went ahead and authorized that repair AND the timing belt/water pump replacement. ($650 for this one.)
Well, since $1100 is not enough to spend in 1 day, I went ahead and threw in an oil change for another $25!! What the heck!! The tech said he'd talk to the manager and try to "work on a discount" for me. We'll see....
I guess it's cheaper than a new engine or new car for that matter.
Swapping out the $85 AutoZone alternator in my old truck took me about 15 minutes. I imagine it's not as easy in the cramped engine compartment of an Accord, but $450??!!
Have you noticed the rear window defogger works incredibly slow on this car? I swear it takes about 10 minutes to be able to see through the rear window. Has anyone else here had the same problem? My old Acura's defrost worked immediately...it's the only thing I miss about my old car.
Otherwise it could be a weak starter, low fuel pump pressure, questionable battery, etc...
A good dealer will find the problem; just be prepared to pay.
Now $95/hr. So I guess it's normal.
To replace the alternator in my 89 Accord, the service manual says the left driveshaft needs to be removed from the steering knuckle first.