Re: 98 Accord runs poor after timing belt replaced.
I bet a month's subscription to Earthlink that the cam timing is off by 1 tooth. The car will be driveable but it will ping, and will have less power and poor gas mileage. Take it back and get it corrected.
I was the 4th car in a 5 car chain reaction at a stoplight. I looked up and saw a semi truck closing in behind me and not slowing down for the red light. No skid marks on the pavement, only in my shorts. My 04 V6 took the jolt and was sandwiched. The car behind me was totaled. The car ahead of me was barely scratched and my awesome honda was squished. Airbags did not deploy. I am concerned about the safety of the car if the appraiser says it will be fixed and not totaled. Any advice out there?
Good to know there was no injury your end. One time, I had to escape to the shoulder on Atlanta's I-285 when a 40-foot rig (approx. 10x the mass of our Accords) loomed up on my rear view, not slowing down.
Back to your question, and it's an interesting one, here's my .02 - with everything premised on you not suffering any financial or material disadvantage resulting from the accident:
1) You've probably heard of resale loss compensation provided by the insurance company. It's supposed to offset any loss at resale with the buyer knowing the car's been in an accident.
2) If your car was intended as a keeper, the car checks out good as new after repair, and the resale loss compensation BETTERS the estimated resale loss (more on this below), I'd say keep the car.
3) If any condition in 2) fails, sell it but consider this before doing so: A settlement attempt by the insurance company doesn't let the offender off the hook. If after appealing an unfair settlement offer the insurer refuses to add compensation, you still have recourse against the offender for any shortage. I'm not sure how signing a quit claim with the insurer in exchange for a first-part settlement plays into this; I'd ask a lawyer before signing.
Approximate resale loss due to a major wreck: 30% of a wreck-free fair market value ($17 k will fetch $12k). This is based on personal experience.
I'm now dealing with a loose rattle in the passenger door (I believe its the cable that runs from the door handle to the lock mechanism - out of its plastic guide) but trying the get the door to reproduce this intermittent noise on a test drive is very frustrating. Also still have the windshield "ice cracking" thing and am now getting a vibration at around 60-65 mph in the wheel (slight grinding type of thrum in the wheel) which I think may have more to do with the curb I hit parking the other day than anything else (I hate aluminum wheels - they more round until you dent 'em and they dent so damn easily + once they're dented, they never seem to balance right after that).
Have to try the WD-40 thing on the door rubber (see post below your last), but I suspect it won't cure the problem. The rubbing sound I'm getting is a wet rubbing sound. I think its more b/c water is not draining properly from the channel, as it seems to happen more often when its rained or its damp outside.
Anyway...good luck - hope it all works out for you. I'm shoppin' bimmer next time round.
Hi -- If you go back to message #8807, my first post, it tells of problem. Follow for messages after that. Basically, problem is large, dark circles which are only seen in bright sunlight or in the dark when under steelights or garage overhead light.. Circles are underneath the white paint, but on the 04' which Honda replaced, they got more discolored as time went on, and appeared in more places. Now 05', same color, Tafetta White which I have had since October 8th, has four areas with the same circles.
Will let you know what Honda will do, after I meet with the district rep.
I have a 1995 accord V6-L with only 73K. The bulk of that milage is from the past 3 years since i switched to driving to work. I change the oil every 3-5K, and service at least 2x per year (filter, tune up if neeeded)In the past 2 years my rock solid reliable car is now showing signs it wants to be traded in or sold.
1. The biggest chunk out of my wallet was the $1200 i just dropped at the dealer to replace the ABS modulator. I was told no service advisories on this existed, and i needed to get this fixed to pass inspection. Now i see some comments on this forum that have me belive this is a more widespread problem than just me.
2. On the subject of brakes, i have had the brakes fixed/repaired several times due to rotor warping. after a few thousand miles, the car feels like the steering wheel willl vibrate right out of my hands under moderate braking from 60-65mph. I have had the rotors cut, replaced, etc and still comes back.
3. stupid little things like the coin holder broke (dealer wants $35..crazy) and a bolt came out of the power seat motor...at least i was able to fix that so i wasnt on a rocking chair.
4. the exhaust system how seems to be disintegrating all in pieces..the muffler 6 months ago and now the Y pipe.
5. The power windows are S-L-O-W and the drivers side even gets shut off by the auto up/down in the cold weather.
After thinking i would drive this into the ground, or save it for my 5-year old, it may be time to let it go. anyone have any ideas on the brakes and if you have any solid details to go to the dealer please let me know.
I had a 03 accord lx with only 22,000 miles. I used to hear some squeezing noise when i applied the brake for the first time. I took the car to dealers and was told it was due to moisture. Recently, I heard grinding sound when i applied the brake. In general, it just happened when I run the car and applied brakes for the first and second time. Then I cannot hear the sound, and the brake is smooth. However, everytime when the car was leftoff for several hours, i can hear the grinding sound again in the beginning. Dealer told me that it is due to rust buildup. I still have the problem even after they clean the brake. Doessomebody has experienced the problem? thanks.
I had this problem and it wasn't rust or the ABS self-check.
Rust just makes a very soft noise on the brakes, but mine made a very extreme grinding sound. It got more and more frequent, so that it made the noise every time the car sat for more than 30 minutes or so. This started when there were only about 400 miles on the car.
The dealer had to replace the pads to make the sound go away.
Sorry to hear about your problems. I'm also relieved to hear that I'm not the only one with the same problems.
I had rattling noises in the passenger door (loose cable guide) and glove box (replaced), ticking of driver window (lubricated window channel guide). Another annoying rattling noise comes from the door of the compartment under the radio.
Don't get me started on the various interior trim pieces that came loose or were missing.
I would drown out the noises with the radio if it didn't carry so much static on all stations.
My best gas mileage is about 26mpg at 65mph with 95% uninterrupted freeway.
I've visited the dealer six times over thr last two months.
Atlantabenny: Thanks! It was a relief to know that the cam teeth are not the culprit. I'll write down your suggestions and take them to the mechanic. I'm going to use them as a bargaining chip (boy, do we have some crooks around here in Jersey!). Got the feeling that you are right on target. I'll keep you post it.
So many problems all at once? Perhaps this is b/c you just started commuting with what was previously a local driver - or is it maybe you're being a little "promoted" by your service shop.
With the brakes, I had a '91 Accord EX-4 cyl. that had a similar problem - after a second set of rotors started to warp and wobble inside of 20k, I went to a different repair shop. The second guy advised me that my calipers had been set too tight, so that the brakes were always very slightly applied and therefore would get hot on anything more than a local trip. Heat+Time=Warped Rotors.
As for the coin holder - that's what a junkyard is for - you should be able to get a replacement for about $5.
Slow power windows could be a motor regulator - or it could just be that the tracks need adjustment and lubrication (again, not something the dealer will necessarily do - although if you're handy, taking off the door panel ain't that hard).
Consider trying another dealer or an aftermarket repair facility that focuses on Japanese car repairs (we're rumored to have a Honda Speed Shop here in Orange Co. NY that is a private facility but also an authorized factory repair shop - look for something like that if you can find it).
I only involved the dealer for the ABS setup since i didnt want to get taken for a ride by a local shop on that...not that the dealers are crooks too sometimes.
Whats the best way to get the door panels off and back on without spending the whole day on it?
You wrote: >>Slow power windows could be a motor regulator - or it could just be that the tracks need adjustment and lubrication (again, not something the dealer will necessarily do - although if you're handy, taking off the door panel ain't that hard).<<
The driver's window on our '97 Accord is pretty slow. What do you recommend as a lubricant for the tracks?
My motor regulator broke on our 97 accord LX and I had to get a new one shortly after it came off the lease. My window would not go up or down, it was stuck open and broke off at the bottom to some degree (heard the glass rattling around in the door). Our dealer fixed it but you try rolling that sucker down when it is cold! Ain't gonna happen or it will go slow going down and won't go back up. If there is something else that can be done to speed the window up please share as well..
From my experience as a private owner of multiple Honda's ( Accords and Civic), for the most part when I had these problems with the windows, I opened the door panel ( not hard but kind of tricky), and removed the window and used silicone spray to grease the tracks and white lithium grease to lub the actual mechanism that the motor actuates, and tried worked it several times before putting the window back on and the rest of the stuff. I'm not saying that the regulator couldn't be bad, but I'm sure if you keep rolling those windows by force or continuously while they are slow, then most likely you will make these regulators go bad. A dealer will not go in their and do what I just mentioned to you because it is not much profit for him. He would rather tell you that the regulator needed to be replaced to fix the problem. And I bet that 90% of the folks that replaced the regulators based on these symptoms, still had these problems surface again.
Thanks for that info. I'm my case i heard a pop, shatter and then nothing so I had to get a new regulator. They couldn't even get the window up after they opened the door panel. Now that the window still takes forever we know not to try to roll it down when the car is cold if we can help it. But I will keep your advice in mind. All this time i thought it was something I did, but come to find out, it is common on the 97's. My husband has a 96 and his is fine.
I really hate to admit this but my ’05 LX sedan with only 800 miles on it is scheduled to go into the shop Monday for a brake service. I actually noticed a mild brake pedal shudder on the way home from the dealer the day I bought the car. In the weeks since, the brake shudder has gotten progressively worse at highway speeds when the brakes are warm. It’s now bad enough that you can feel it through the steering wheel and even the seat at times.
I bought the car expecting to get the rotors turned and the front pads replaced under warranty before 15,000 miles. That seems fairly common. The last three Mitsubishi cars I’ve owned had to go to the dealer multiple times each for brake work under warranty. I’m a little surprised to be having this problem between zero miles and now on my '05 Honda though.
The dealership offered to take care of the brakes and the airbag recall in the same service visit so that I don’t have to be without a car for more than a day.
Anybody else having early brake problems?
As a side note, I wonder if the LX model with drum rear brakes puts more of a braking load on the disk front brakes and perhaps thus has a higher incidence of warped rotors. Anybody have any thoughts on that possibility?
Post #8945 mentions having the calipers adjusted to prevent premature brake wear.
I had your problem about every 3K on my 03 Accord (which I eventually got rid of), starting at very low mileage. The dealer replaced the pads several times and the rotors once, but the problem came back each time.
“Caliper adjustment”? I’m skeptical. An asymmetrical caliper (with a piston on only one side) floats to center itself on a carrier. There is no spring or other mechanism – it’s self-regulating. The pads float too while the caliper piston extends and retracts on deformable rubber seals to allow free space between the components; rotor, pads, and piston. (A symmetrical, multi-piston caliper is fixed in position and the caliper pistons alone float to provide centering and parts clearance).
It’s certainly possible that a caliper isn’t floating properly due to dirt, rust, lack of grease, and/or a defective part. Alternatively, an overly stiff seal might not bend when the brakes are applied and then retract the piston afterward. However, in either case, that would be dead easy to check for just by spinning the wheel – you’d hear and feel the pads dragging. The only “adjustment” I can imagine would be if the caliper were way out of parallel with the rotor (unlikely) and that would damage the pads more than the rotor.
One common cause of warped rotors on some models is improperly tightened lug nuts. Too tight or very uneven tightening can play hell on the rotor when it gets very hot. I meant to check all mine with a torque wrench but haven’t yet.
As expensive as these brake problems are for many manufacturers, I can’t imagine that they’re just unwilling to use slightly higher-quality parts. I honestly don’t know what the deal is.
If you have an I-4 engine (there are no V4 engines in modern cars), your mechanic may not have installed the balance shaft belt correctly. This would explain the vibration...
The battery had to be replaced in 2002 Accord EX coupe with stock radio. The radio needs the code to turn back on. I dont have the manual or the original code. Honda wants $100 to do it. Is there another way?
I took it in and they adjusted suspension and that helped the noise....at least I thought so. It was good for week or more....but coming home today I noticed that it had reappeared....I'll be taking back to dealer if continues.
I have a 97 accord with 134k miles and it has rear drum brakes and my front rotors haven't had any problems with warping. I have had noisey pads installed at Honda repair shop that squeaked when applied, but the honda dealer redid them and I have had no problems since. So I would say, the rear drums can't be causing your front brake problem, IMO. Did they check your wheel bearings, I hope your dealer has fix this problem by now.
I have a Honda Accord DX 1990. It has a peculiar problem. When I drive it and stop it, I can change the gear from Drive to Parking but the parking light on the dashboard(showing that I Parked) does not come up. Till the parking light comes up I cannot come out of the car as the keys are stuck. After about 2-5 minutes the parking light comes up and then only I can leave the car.
There have been periodic posts on 'hard to press gas pedal'. The cause generally appears to be 'throttle body needs cleaning'. I have had this problem myself and sure enough, the cleaning corrected.
Do all Accords have this problem over time? If so why doesn't Honda include this in the periodic maintenance chart?
If it is only some, does anyone know what causes this? Is it the local gasoline mixture? Or perhaps driving habits?
Well I was hoping that I would never have to write a post about my 2004 Accord EX V6 with only 2800 miles, but I guess I have my first problem. I rarely drive this car and just heard this noise today. When I was backing out of my uphill drive way and shift into drive; while I start to accelerate a mechanical noise from the front right side comes out of nowhere like I just ran over something. My wife said she just started hearing this noise this week and she drives this car a little more frequent than I do. But after the initial acceleration and reaching my destination, I don’t have any other problems or noises that I could catch. I could only get the noise to come back when I was in an empty parking lot and did the same thing. Go in reverse and turn the steering wheel right and just slightly accelerating the noise came back. But the noise is quick like I just ran over something, but big enough to hear and feel like I just ran over something. But once again on the highway and city streets I don’t seem to have any problems. I feared that this new purchase would lead to something I would regret. My family has always owed civics and my 2000 has never had a problem. This is my first accord and I can’t go past 3000 miles without something going wrong. Plus my wife only hears the noise when she does the same thing. While reading the posts, I’ve seen possible motor mount, brakes, I thought a possible CV joint acting up but then I should hear it when I turn street corners. Any Ideas please?
My 03 V6 coupe was recently fixed for what appears like the same problem. Moving forward after reverse, a crunching noise would come from the right front-end. Turned out to be a broken rear engine mount, replaced under warranty.
Note to isellhondas: While warranty thankfully covered this potentially expensive job, we all know that Honda earned its reputation with cars that didn't seem to need time-robbing warranty work in the first place. Given that I had to bring the car a number of times to the dealer for diagnostics, part-ordering (they didn't have the part) and finally installation, this warranty work took at least 3 hours of my personal time and the hassle of arranging alternate transportation (no courtesy car) while the car was in the shop.
During the past 2 weeks, I got chances to take my friends 2000 & 2004 Honda accord, and another one is 2000 Oddssey.
I noticed the check engine light was on in all those 3 cars. What happened? Does Honda make all their cars like that?
Even the car needs to get oil change it should not doing that, except the engine oil is lower than minimum request.
If this is the function that Honda makes the car and this is only the business strategy which scare customers and charge them more just for oil change. Is there a way I can turn this light off myself? Otherwise, I don’t think I’ll buy any Honda in my life.
There's a difference between the "check engine" light and the "maintenance required" light. The latter just reminds you that the odometer has reached a required service interval. And you can turn the "maintenance required" light off yourself.
The "check engine" light is telling you that something is actually amiss. It's often as simple as not tightening the gas cap enough. When it happened to me on my 2000 Accord, it turned out that there was an alternator problem.
So the "check engine" light isn't a business strategy... it's there for a real tangible purpose of benefit to the owner.
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds or until the indicator goes out.
Older Model Honda Vehicles:
Insert the ignition key into the maintenance indicator slot. Press inward to depress the reset button and remove your key.
I have the had the same problem same year and model. Car was parked in our closed and locked garage, undisturbed and alarm went off at 5 am. My son now has the car away at school. Campus police has contacted him numerous times about alarm going off. He'll be home soon and I'm taking it to the dealer. The car has less than 60k miles. This should not happen with a honda.
I just bought my 2005 Accord EX in November. In less than a month it has been at the dealer for four days to fix the creeks on the left passenger side. The dealer said that the panels were not properly sealed at the factory. I have only had it back for three days and it seems to be returning.
got it yesterday, really like the handling and smooth ride, the cornering is so accurate, much better than my previous chevy.
this morning, took my accord out of the garage,
found oil leak stain on the garage floor,
not sure whether the stain is from accord or my previous chevy: so park the car in the other side of the garage( i have 2 car garage) which has no stain ,put newspaper underneath the accord
hopefully, i will see no stain tonight, otherwise, I have to ask the dealer to fix it or switch to another accord.
I recently purchased a 05 Accord Coupe (EXV6) and immediately experienced the same clicking/creaking noise at driver's dash/windshield when driving over bumps that bruceb1 noted in his message thread. Noise appears to be weather induced (cold and dry weather aggravates noise, warm weather and rain lessens or stops noise). I took it into Honda service and of course they could not hear/duplicate sound even though I left it overnight. I immediately heard clicking at same area when I picked up car, took service rep along, he heard it but he had no idea of what to do. Reps supposedly called Honda Tech Line but they have not heard of this problem with 05 cars nor did they service a fix for this problem. My best guess it is could be poor seals at windshield (note previous posts by auburn this problem and use of grease to lub seals). Apart from this very annoying noise, car runs fine so far. Any suggestions before service department takes another shot? Hate to have them create more noise problems by taking apart panels etc.
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds or until the indicator goes out.
I gather that the important part there is to have the trip/reset held down BEFORE you turn on the ignition. Hold it down after the car is already on and you'll be adjusting the outside temperature sensor up to plus or minus 5 degrees F (if so equipped).
Has anybody experienced any rattle/shaking noise from either winshield or visor areas? It's driving me crazy my 92 was more quiet than this one! I've taken it back to dealer twice they don't hear it. I am being told if I take to another dealer I could be charged. How could this be the car has only 550 miles on it just got it 11/17/04. Help and thank you in advance.
Just saw your post. My noise I thought was in the area of visor. Now I am thinking it's the windshield. When it was taken back to dealer twice they did nothing since they were not able to hear noise. Funny I hear it quite often. What to do?
I am have the exact same problem 05 Accord Sedan EXL dealer does not hear it. I thought it was those new airbags but now I am thinking it is winshield related in Los Angeles CA also weather related cold it acts up more than with heat. I too do not want the dealer to tear up a virgin car of 550 miles just purchased 11/17/04.
Comments
I bet a month's subscription to Earthlink that the cam timing is off by 1 tooth. The car will be driveable but it will ping, and will have less power and poor gas mileage. Take it back and get it corrected.
Back to your question, and it's an interesting one, here's my .02 - with everything premised on you not suffering any financial or material disadvantage resulting from the accident:
1) You've probably heard of resale loss compensation provided by the insurance company. It's supposed to offset any loss at resale with the buyer knowing the car's been in an accident.
2) If your car was intended as a keeper, the car checks out good as new after repair, and the resale loss compensation BETTERS the estimated resale loss (more on this below), I'd say keep the car.
3) If any condition in 2) fails, sell it but consider this before doing so: A settlement attempt by the insurance company doesn't let the offender off the hook. If after appealing an unfair settlement offer the insurer refuses to add compensation, you still have recourse against the offender for any shortage. I'm not sure how signing a quit claim with the insurer in exchange for a first-part settlement plays into this; I'd ask a lawyer before signing.
Approximate resale loss due to a major wreck: 30% of a wreck-free fair market value ($17 k will fetch $12k). This is based on personal experience.
Hope this helps.
I'm now dealing with a loose rattle in the passenger door (I believe its the cable that runs from the door handle to the lock mechanism - out of its plastic guide) but trying the get the door to reproduce this intermittent noise on a test drive is very frustrating. Also still have the windshield "ice cracking" thing and am now getting a vibration at around 60-65 mph in the wheel (slight grinding type of thrum in the wheel) which I think may have more to do with the curb I hit parking the other day than anything else (I hate aluminum wheels - they more round until you dent 'em and they dent so damn easily + once they're dented, they never seem to balance right after that).
Have to try the WD-40 thing on the door rubber (see post below your last), but I suspect it won't cure the problem. The rubbing sound I'm getting is a wet rubbing sound. I think its more b/c water is not draining properly from the channel, as it seems to happen more often when its rained or its damp outside.
Anyway...good luck - hope it all works out for you. I'm shoppin' bimmer next time round.
-FS
Will let you know what Honda will do, after I meet with the district rep.
I have a 1995 accord V6-L with only 73K. The bulk of that milage is from the past 3 years since i switched to driving to work. I change the oil every 3-5K, and service at least 2x per year (filter, tune up if neeeded)In the past 2 years my rock solid reliable car is now showing signs it wants to be traded in or sold.
1. The biggest chunk out of my wallet was the $1200 i just dropped at the dealer to replace the ABS modulator. I was told no service advisories on this existed, and i needed to get this fixed to pass inspection. Now i see some comments on this forum that have me belive this is a more widespread problem than just me.
2. On the subject of brakes, i have had the brakes fixed/repaired several times due to rotor warping. after a few thousand miles, the car feels like the steering wheel willl vibrate right out of my hands under moderate braking from 60-65mph. I have had the rotors cut, replaced, etc and still comes back.
3. stupid little things like the coin holder broke (dealer wants $35..crazy) and a bolt came out of the power seat motor...at least i was able to fix that so i wasnt on a rocking chair.
4. the exhaust system how seems to be disintegrating all in pieces..the muffler 6 months ago and now the Y pipe.
5. The power windows are S-L-O-W and the drivers side even gets shut off by the auto up/down in the cold weather.
After thinking i would drive this into the ground, or save it for my 5-year old, it may be time to let it go. anyone have any ideas on the brakes and if you have any solid details to go to the dealer please let me know.
thanks!
Recently, I heard grinding sound when i applied the brake. In general, it just happened when I run the car and applied brakes for the first and second time. Then I cannot hear the sound, and
the brake is smooth. However, everytime when the car was leftoff for several hours, i can hear the grinding sound again in the beginning. Dealer told me that it is due to rust buildup. I still have the problem even after they clean the brake. Doessomebody has experienced the problem? thanks.
Rust just makes a very soft noise on the brakes, but mine made a very extreme grinding sound. It got more and more frequent, so that it made the noise every time the car sat for more than 30 minutes or so. This started when there were only about 400 miles on the car.
The dealer had to replace the pads to make the sound go away.
I had rattling noises in the passenger door (loose cable guide) and glove box (replaced), ticking of driver window (lubricated window channel guide). Another annoying rattling noise comes from the door of the compartment under the radio.
Don't get me started on the various interior trim pieces that came loose or were missing.
I would drown out the noises with the radio if it didn't carry so much static on all stations.
My best gas mileage is about 26mpg at 65mph with 95% uninterrupted freeway.
I've visited the dealer six times over thr last two months.
Got the feeling that you are right on target. I'll keep you post it.
With the brakes, I had a '91 Accord EX-4 cyl. that had a similar problem - after a second set of rotors started to warp and wobble inside of 20k, I went to a different repair shop. The second guy advised me that my calipers had been set too tight, so that the brakes were always very slightly applied and therefore would get hot on anything more than a local trip. Heat+Time=Warped Rotors.
As for the coin holder - that's what a junkyard is for - you should be able to get a replacement for about $5.
Slow power windows could be a motor regulator - or it could just be that the tracks need adjustment and lubrication (again, not something the dealer will necessarily do - although if you're handy, taking off the door panel ain't that hard).
Consider trying another dealer or an aftermarket repair facility that focuses on Japanese car repairs (we're rumored to have a Honda Speed Shop here in Orange Co. NY that is a private facility but also an authorized factory repair shop - look for something like that if you can find it).
Good luck!
-FS
I only involved the dealer for the ABS setup since i didnt want to get taken for a ride by a local shop on that...not that the dealers are crooks too sometimes.
Whats the best way to get the door panels off and back on without spending the whole day on it?
i consider myself somewhat handy in general.
thanks
>>Slow power windows could be a motor regulator - or it could just be that the tracks need adjustment and lubrication (again, not something the dealer will necessarily do - although if you're handy, taking off the door panel ain't that hard).<<
The driver's window on our '97 Accord is pretty slow. What do you recommend as a lubricant for the tracks?
From my experience as a private owner of multiple
Honda's ( Accords and Civic), for the most part when I had these problems with the windows, I opened the door panel ( not hard but kind of tricky), and removed the window and used silicone spray to grease the tracks and white lithium grease to lub the actual mechanism that the motor actuates, and tried worked it several times before putting the window back on and the rest of the stuff. I'm not saying that the regulator couldn't be bad, but I'm sure if you keep rolling those windows by force or continuously while they are slow, then most likely you will make these regulators go bad. A dealer will not go in their and do what I just mentioned to you because it is not much profit for him. He would rather tell you that the regulator needed to be replaced to fix the problem. And I bet that 90% of the folks that replaced the regulators based on these symptoms, still had these problems surface again.
I bought the car expecting to get the rotors turned and the front pads replaced under warranty before 15,000 miles. That seems fairly common. The last three Mitsubishi cars I’ve owned had to go to the dealer multiple times each for brake work under warranty. I’m a little surprised to be having this problem between zero miles and now on my '05 Honda though.
The dealership offered to take care of the brakes and the airbag recall in the same service visit so that I don’t have to be without a car for more than a day.
Anybody else having early brake problems?
As a side note, I wonder if the LX model with drum rear brakes puts more of a braking load on the disk front brakes and perhaps thus has a higher incidence of warped rotors. Anybody have any thoughts on that possibility?
I had your problem about every 3K on my 03 Accord (which I eventually got rid of), starting at very low mileage. The dealer replaced the pads several times and the rotors once, but the problem came back each time.
Perhaps the caliper adjustment is the answer.
It’s certainly possible that a caliper isn’t floating properly due to dirt, rust, lack of grease, and/or a defective part. Alternatively, an overly stiff seal might not bend when the brakes are applied and then retract the piston afterward. However, in either case, that would be dead easy to check for just by spinning the wheel – you’d hear and feel the pads dragging. The only “adjustment” I can imagine would be if the caliper were way out of parallel with the rotor (unlikely) and that would damage the pads more than the rotor.
One common cause of warped rotors on some models is improperly tightened lug nuts. Too tight or very uneven tightening can play hell on the rotor when it gets very hot. I meant to check all mine with a torque wrench but haven’t yet.
As expensive as these brake problems are for many manufacturers, I can’t imagine that they’re just unwilling to use slightly higher-quality parts. I honestly don’t know what the deal is.
Some of the newer Hondas (Odessey, Pilot) have a little sticker there that shows the radio code.
Thanks for your comments!
I sprayed some WD-40 on the weather stripping around the passenger-side doors and that seems to have stopped some very slight creaking in that area.
The 2004 is a tight car--the 2005 is likely to be better.....Richard
any other opinions for late 04 early 05 owners?
I have a Honda Accord DX 1990. It has a peculiar problem. When I drive it and stop it, I can change the gear from Drive to Parking but the parking light on the dashboard(showing that I Parked) does not come up. Till the parking light comes up I cannot come out of the car as the keys are stuck. After about 2-5 minutes the parking light comes up and then only I can leave the car.
Do all Accords have this problem over time? If so why doesn't Honda include this in the periodic maintenance chart?
If it is only some, does anyone know what causes this? Is it the local gasoline mixture? Or perhaps driving habits?
Note to isellhondas: While warranty thankfully covered this potentially expensive job, we all know that Honda earned its reputation with cars that didn't seem to need time-robbing warranty work in the first place. Given that I had to bring the car a number of times to the dealer for diagnostics, part-ordering (they didn't have the part) and finally installation, this warranty work took at least 3 hours of my personal time and the hassle of arranging alternate transportation (no courtesy car) while the car was in the shop.
I noticed the check engine light was on in all those 3 cars. What happened? Does Honda make all their cars like that?
Even the car needs to get oil change it should not doing that, except the engine oil is lower than minimum request.
If this is the function that Honda makes the car and this is only the business strategy which scare customers and charge them more just for oil change. Is there a way I can turn this light off myself? Otherwise, I don’t think I’ll buy any Honda in my life.
The "check engine" light is telling you that something is actually amiss. It's often as simple as not tightening the gas cap enough. When it happened to me on my 2000 Accord, it turned out that there was an alternator problem.
So the "check engine" light isn't a business strategy... it's there for a real tangible purpose of benefit to the owner.
By College Hills Honda Service
Newer Model Honda Vehicles:
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds or until the indicator goes out.
Older Model Honda Vehicles:
Insert the ignition key into the maintenance indicator slot. Press inward to depress the reset button and remove your key.
Did you get yours fixed?
Houston, TX
this morning, took my accord out of the garage,
found oil leak stain on the garage floor,
not sure whether the stain is from accord or my previous chevy: so park the car in the other side of the garage( i have 2 car garage) which has no stain ,put newspaper underneath the accord
hopefully, i will see no stain tonight, otherwise, I have to ask the dealer to fix it or switch to another accord.
any suggestions?
thx
I gather that the important part there is to have the trip/reset held down BEFORE you turn on the ignition. Hold it down after the car is already on and you'll be adjusting the outside temperature sensor up to plus or minus 5 degrees F (if so equipped).