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Comments
Turns out the window was just a transmitter, not the cause, of the rattle.
No, my 2004 Accord Coupe is totally noise-free. So, I've not had to try the silicone solution. But, it would probably work well on any vehicle that exhibits the problem at the seal-to-glass, seal-to-seal or seal-to-metal interfaces. It's an inexpensive way to isolate or eliminate seals as the culprit.
atlantabenny makes a good point, that the source of some sounds could be transmitted from other components that are not readily visible.
to the dealership where I got it from? Or can I go to any of the Honda dealerships
for repairs? I have better prices from dealerships that are 30 mi from my place
vs the dealers who are within 10miles.
Funny...if a person reads these boards enough they would probably buy a bicycle or rely on public transportation. I've never even heard of a fuse box recall. No doubt another tempest in a teapot like most recalls.
For some reason the word "recall" strikes fear in people. The majority of recalls are trivial.
Still, if a person is THAT scared, they probably whould buy something else.
The sky is not falling!
True, some dealers do give their customers preferential treatment for service - normally discounts on oil changes, etc. Someone posted a while back that their local dealer said they would put them at the end of the line if they did not get the car from them. I think that is BS - I get a survey from Honda for every trip I make to the service department for any reason. I think a lot of awards and rewards depend on how folks answer that survey. As a result, they treat me like I got the car there each time I am in.
Dennis
Most of the serious recalls are done on the lot as soon as they come out - and the dealers know not to sell cars that have not been done. The airbag one started November of last year, the fuse box one is a little newer and started in April. My bet would be now, near the end of May - all the ones on the lots have been done.
You can call Honda (800-999-1009) and give them the VIN of the car you put a deposit on and see if a) it is even in the recal campaign and b) if so, has it already been fixed. So you can do the same thing with the VIN and the service department.
Why be angry? You can be "chicken little" and run around worrying what might go wrong with ANY car you choose - or just insure before you take delivery that YOUR car has gotten all the recalls done before you drive it off.
If you can find a perfect car with no recalls that never has a problem, please share it with the rest of us - even Honda and Toyota have problems. Toyota put a new short block in my old T-100 (haul stuff to the dump) truck long after the warranty was over. Seems they had messed up in the design of the engine had a "secret" warranty on the motors. When the coolant dumped into the engine and hydro-locked it it could have "caused a crash" - but if you go look no recall was ever issued.
Dennis
Add me to those you say that if you like the car, buy it. If there has been a recall for cars that include your new car's VIN, the dealer should take care of this before delivery.
The airbag recall was for ALL 2004, 4 cyl. Accords and a few '05s that were probably sold and fixed months ago. That repair was simple and involved attaching a piece of material over the airbag module to insulate a deploying airbag from possible sharp edges in the steering wheel cover. During tests there were some driver's airbags that tore as they deployed--why this only affected 4 cylinder models, I don't know--probably a different supplier of steering wheel covers. My '04 Accord EX-L was fixed quickly and conveniently.
The airbag recall involved over 257,000 cars and the fuse box recall involves only 1,923 cars. You can easily check the VIN to see if you car is one of them and, if so, whether it was fixed.
Enjoy your new car--you have no problem.......Richard
Most recalls address things that "could" happen, addressing the worst possible senario. If a recall is announced, no matter how trival, a "STOP SALE" bulletin is sent out and sales are frozen on the affected models until the fix is applied.
It's amazing how we survived back in the "old days". There were no recalls to worry about!
Enjoy your new car!
The car only has 33,000 miles and never has any accidents.
Dealer will charge $90 for computer diagnose.
It is free if it is because of saft belt problem which has lift time warrantee.
Dealer also said low battery might cause RSR light on.
It seems this problem is common for Honda Accord 2000.
If anyone had got this problem fixed through dealer, please share your experience.
Thanks,
Nasdaq
Did you work it out?
I have exactly same problem.
-Nasdaq
I am wondering if anyone has had or still has a problem with their 03-05 Accord wanting to climb the crown to the center of the road. Also the steering never seems to be "on-center". This is not severe, but is annoying to maintain a constant light steering pressure to the right. The car has been aligned and is going back for another try Thursday. Just looking for suggestions and wondering if anyone has had this problem and what the solution was. My car has about 2000 miles on the odometer. Any thoughts appreciated.
Hermann
It reads like your tires may be overinflated. Are your tires correctly inflated to the pressures specified on the decal on the driver-side door jamb? I.e. probably 32 p.s.i. front and 30 p.s.i. rear? Do you have an accurate tire pressure gauge?
All -- I have the same problem with my '00 EX V-6 that only has 26K miles. Additionally, the light came on about two days after I replaced my battery. At someones suggestion, I then disconnected the battery and still the light showed up. Honda dealerships service departments are great but it always is a 300 dollar visit!
Kevin
that is burning out from all the work. Seems like 6 disk changers are better. That's
what's in my '03. That being said, I do still get enjoyment from my '98 sometimes when I catch it on a good day. I think that having the A/C on seems to help. It keeps the unit cooler. You are right about the factory cd working better, but I can still play some of the created ones too. Not much to do about it except replacement.
All help appreciated
The fact that your player can read commercially pressed disks indicates that the lens on the laser is not dirty. BTW, despite claims to the contrary, CD player cleaning kits do not work and can actually damage your player. Certainly, over time, dust can get on the lens. The only way to clean that properly would be to disassemble the unit. Unfortunately, that could lead to damage unless you have technical experience. Another problem occurs when dust or corrosion prevents the laser from moving smoothly back on forth on two stainless steel rods that support it. Replacement, in that case, is the best option.
I would contact Honda, or the supplier of the CD player, and find out if a flash is possible. This is done with a flash utility in DOS or Windows for a CD player attached to a PC. I don't know if this is possible for a user to do with your type of unit.
Hope this helps.
Can anyone recommend a good audio website similar to Crutchfield? Their prices can get pretty high.
Thanks again
If you don't like what you got, send it back and exchange it for something else.
I got an XM Direct-Connect for my wife's new Accord ($24) and when I asked they e-mailed me the Accord instruction PDF for free.
Also if you have a Master Card or Amex you can get discounts or free shipping or both with promo deals. Plus a $20 or $25 "refer a friend" discount if you have not ordered from them before.
I would not buy a TV or home stereo or RADAR detector from them since the price is too high - but for car stereo stuff the freebies make it well worth it.
Dennis
Thanks....
I bought a new '05 v-6 6mt coupe in January, have less than 3K miles on it and I love everything about it except: the engine "pings" or sounds almost like valve tap when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gears and the sound only happens BELOW 2,100 RPM.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? I use regular grade gasoline, and I'm thinking about trying out mid-grade to see if that would fix the problem.
Any comments would be very much appreciated!
You are correct. You probably shouldn't be hearing that sound once your engine is warm. Yes, try a tank of mid-grade fuel to see if the sound goes away. That's a fine test to see if octane is a factor. You might also want to try a few tanks of a different brand of 87 octane fuel before reaching conclusions.
If the testing confirms your theory, you should head back to your Honda service department with all facts and notes in hand. Your vehicle IS designed to work fine on 87 octane fuel. There may be a wayward valve lifter or tappet making the sound.
I don't believe that the sound that you described is in any way related to ABS self-check.
My wife tends to stop and any no-name place that has a cheap price while I am loyal to my local Chevron. I pay a little more, but don't buy Techron by the bottle now and never (knock on wood) get a bad tank of gas :-)
Dennis
We KNOW the EPA numbers are usually wrong, but you are getting a little better than if you had gotten the V-6....
Dennis
The valves need to be readjusted.
Is absolutely right, you (Accord6MT)should not be hearing valve tappet noise or pinging. Take your car back to the dealer immediately.
Funny thing when I first read your response i thought you said "It happens all the time", I missed the leading "If" Talk about changing the meaning of the sentence.
I have a 6-speed and have no noise in 1rst or 2nd and it runs very very well on regular. I do use Chevron though. You (Accord6mt) need to be able to enjoy your car
Good Luck,
MidCow
I'm taking the car to the dealer on Tuesday, so I'll update everyone on what they find & actions they took to fix the problem.
Thanks again!
Cheers!
Same MPG as you with same car....before the last fill up, drove 274 miles, and it took 12.92 gallons to fill it back-up = Got 21.21 MPG
Dennis is right, my Accord has less than 2K miles on it....so am patiently waiting to see if the MPG will improve after 5K miles and after the first oil change. Also you may want to check to make sure your tires are inflated properly to the Honda specs.....if they are under inflated, the coefficient of drag will almost always get you as the car uses more torque [to turn the wheels].
Good Luck....
Dennis,
I did some research. It indicated that fuel in California is same everywhere regardless of fuel stations. I am not sure about other states.
the qoute from the dealership to change the front brake pads was $240 I think this is ALOT! if thats even whats going on...
Check to see if the transmission was recalled.
Congratulations on the purchase of your 6th Generation Accord they are fine cars. FYI, the 7th Generation started with the 2003's.
What you believe to be brake noises could also be suspension or wheel bearing related. Any good (recommended by friends & neighbors) mechanic should be able to diagnose and repair such parts of your new baby. Of course, their hourly labor rate may only be about $10 or $12 lower than a Honda dealership's rate.
For peace of mind you might want to consider the Honda shop for your initial checkup. They'll know what to look for if you ask them to determine if all recommended factory Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) have been applied to your particular car.
My wife's Chevy Van has NEVER been recalled for anything, but it burns a quart of oil every 2500 miles with only 45k on the odometer and the manufacturer says that's "normal operation." To me that's far more annoying and unprofessional.
I have owned two Hondas - a '91 Accord EX and a 2004 Accord EX-V6 Coupe. My '91 was flawless - sold it with well over a 100k on it and the original back brakes, starter, clutch, alternator, battery, and other parts in it. It never once left me stranded and the only unanticipated repair was a distributor at 105k that still held on long enough for me to get to the garage before it failed.
While my new Accord has suffered from some of the rattles noted on this board and is currently awaiting the installation of a new Oxygen sensor (which the computer picked up and warned me via the Check Engine light - not because I had any trouble driving the car), I still believe it to be a far better automobile than anything else I might have bought.
Every car has problems - Hondas generally have less. So, check your car out, but enjoy your purchase - in the long run, you won't be sorry.
I was driving across several states when the car decided to slow down to a crawl. I made it to a service station and replaced my fuel pump and filter ($$$$) then it seemed fine for about an hour and started to bog intermittently and felt like it was running out of gas or had dropped a cylinder. By the end of that trip I had replaced the distributor, rotor, all plugs and the whole harness.
Before the trip I had the timing belt replaced, the water pump replaced and the idle set, new air filter, the a/c serviced, a new parking break assembly installed and the clutch adjusted. And I do get a pressure release when I open the gas cap.
The car starts up like a champ, drives just fine for about a half hour (unless its stop and go then maybe 5 minutes) and as soon as I need to slow and change highways or begin stop and go it starts acting up. I'll down shift (doesn't have to be to a stop) and once I accelerate and begin my gear climb again it bogs down, jerks forward and sometimes stalls. It re starts with no problem but I have the hardest time getting it to rev up to move forward it'll just stall again. So far it does eventually get going but I have to coax it to a high rpm to do it.
If I hold in the clutch and get it to rev up to a high rpm (at a stop or while moving) the problem may clear for a short while but doesn't go away. I equate it to coughing up some phlegm. Not real pleasant but neither is this hassle.
I have also had mechanics play with the carbs and vacuums but either that isn't the problem or they aren't catching the problem. They did find out why my cruise wasnt working, bonus.
It feels like it sometimes gets fuel and sometimes doesn't, like it has a hair ball in the way and sometimes purrs so beautifully. But Im no mechanic Im just basing my feelings on past experiences. Im not sure if the outside air temp is a factor but it is getting warmer out and it is happenig sooner than before during each drive but I've had it in the southern states the whole time and from 7000 feet to sea level. But nothing seems to be consistant there.
Thanks tons for all your help!!!!!!
88Buck
That is normal. Cars do use a slight amount of oil. If they don't appear to use oil over a thousand miles, e.g., then usually the volume is being kept up by contaminants are are collecting in the oil. Drive the car on a long drive at highway speeds and much of the extra volume will be burned out and people will say their car uses oil at highway speed. In reality it was just the contaminants being burned away.
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