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Comments
The RPM drops when the A/C kicks in and rises when it cycles off, so that could cause the car to accelerate slightly if the brake pedal isn't pressed.
I almost always keep my foot on the brake when stopped at traffic lights so that might be why I don't notice any lurch.
In any case, I don't think you have anything to be concerned about..................Richard
Then the problem started, car started moving and I could hear a noise coming from under the hood (constant highway noise when car goes over blocks of concrete). This periodic noise was only when the car went forward and NOT reverse.
After about half hour of driving, this sound lessened...but the real problem was BRAKING. When I brake, I can feel something pushing back on the brake pedal continuously and car is taking a long while to stop. As I press on the brake pedal, I do hear the loud periodic noise...
A month before I left I got the car serviced and the mechanic told me that there was 60% wear on the brakes. Can this be a brake problem? Or is this explained by the fact that the car was parked for a long time and some rust had settled in causing the loud noise and something bad happened as a result of this? It has been insanely hot over the last couple of weeks, temperatures touching 98 degrees... can this have added to be the cause of the problem? Is there something which I can check before going to the mechanic?
Car Gurus, please help
Ed
Everyone, I hope.
Could try a neutral shift while waiting at lights. Any change in RPM is going to be negotiated by the trans.... you claim to be overly-sensitive - are you sure this is a lurch as you say, or is it more of a nudge? Nudge would be normal.
Dennis
e-brakes are that - for emergencies. An exception would be parking a stick on an extreme hill... but unless it is San Francisco - a 1st gear park should be sufficient. If your car is rolling, then you have compression and leakage issues and the car needs to be in the shop.
Never use your e-brake for a month at a time and expect things not to rust up. If you were on halfway level ground, you would have been fine either in gear as a stick, or in park as an auto.
Get it towed to a brake shop before you do more damage. You are likely looking at rotor and caliper replacements already, as well as belts and possible clutch/trans work.
I took the car to the mechanic this morning - he saw the rotors on the front wheels and said that there was already rust built up. He also took the car out for a test ride and said that the car was in good shape except for the brakes and opined that it was good for a few months since the brakes were 60% worn. He didnt say a thing about e-brakes...and yes, he too observed that brake pedals pulsating when he tried to apply brake and explained that with constant use, chances were that it will go away.
With everything both of you have written, the car seems to be in some serious trouble.
Mechanic didnt think so. Now, I am really confused, kindly write what is the next best thing I can do before there is greater damage?
How can I check for a frozen or stuck e-brake? I have used the e-brake twice in the past (once in winter, feb and another in fall, oct) when I had taken off for 1 month vacations and nothing like that happened. But, this was the first time I took a vacation in spring/summer time frame, there were lot of rains/severe temperatures from what I hear, rust formation most certainly would have occured.
Please please write. Many thanks.
Dennis
Speed has nothing to do with it. Don't be foolish, just get it changed. While they are "in there" have them change the water pump and drive belts at the same time for no additional labor.
Then you can enjoy the next 105,000 miles.
If you send the car "back" to China, the authorities there are going to say "What
do you want us to do with a car mfg'ed by a Japanese company and was
manufactured in the US?"
I had front rotors+pads and rear pads replaced at 25K. At 15K I complained about loud squeaking and vibration and they turned the rotors.
At 40K now the probs are appearing again.
The problem is NOT your driving. My 97 corolla never had a brake problem in the 5 years I drove it before I got the Accord. If anything I drive slower and less hard on my accord than I did the corolla because i'm older than when I got the corolla!
Puddles are a fact of life, you cannot avoid them. As is road salt in the northern climes.
I've been told that they are making rotors too thin to cut costs, and that a groove along the outer edges of the rotor has made the problems worse by allowing more rust to build up.
OK. When the car was running, I put it in Neutral and pushed it backwards and forwards - car moved fine. I tried the same with the e-brake ON, the car wouldnt budge. This gives me enough confidence that e-brake is not stuck and working normally.
I observed one other thing...I hear the periodic/cyclic noise even when the car is in FORWARD motion...does this strike to you as something OTHER THAN a BRAKE problem. I dont hear this sound at high speeds, but at slow speeds, its hard to miss. What is puzzling me is that I could not hear this sound in the morning when the mechanic took it for a test ride. Pointers appreciated.
Thanks,
Thanks, for the help 4 sure.
Ed
I am considering purchasing a 2002 Accord SE with 85k miles for a great price from a reputable dealer. It seems to be in excellent condition mechanically and physically. The original owner has all of the paperwork for the oil changes and regular maintenance etc. My only concern is the higher mileage. Does anyone else out there have this same make and model with similar miles. If so, have you had any problems? Would you recommend this buy? Just curious......
I had a 98 EX 4 cyl. I had the belt and water pump changed at around 110,000 miles. I first called my local Honda shop and they gave me a price of almost $800. I then took it to my local mechanic and he did it for $400. New timing belt, water pump, tensioners, etc. As I recall, that Honda engine is considered "interference" - meaning if the timing belt breaks the valves will come in contact with the pistons - which is bad. If that happens, that will cost you a lot of money. So for peace of mind, have it changed along with the other items. Just shop around - I found the locals to be cheaper than the dealerships.
Hope this helps.
Did you ever resolve the cause of your intermittent electrical problem? My 98 Accord with 126K is doing the same thing.
I have some more to add to the initial observations, when I make a left turn, I hear the grinding noise, please note that I did not touch the brake pedal...even when the car was in regular forward motion, I am hearing this grinding noise...this morning, I didnt hear the same grinding noise when I applied the brakes and also I did the e-brake testing which you suggested yesterday. I am beginning to think that brakes are working just fine and its something else and it has to do with the wheels...Also, what I saw this morning was akin to being in an airplane...I know its tough to say anything...any pointers appreciated.
I am taking the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.
Thanks,
Ed
Larry
I just bought 2002 Honda Accord 4 cyc, AT. When I shift to R, I feel the car shakes a little bit. When I shift to D, it has no more shake. Is something wrong with engine mount or transmission or it is normal. I drive my daughter's Accord V6, 2005. It is very smooth, not shakes like my car. Please tell me what I can do. Should I take it back to the dealer I bought it to complaint?
Thanks.
Driving down I-696 yesterday in my 3 week old Accord one of those rocks from out of nowhere landed on my windshield and make a nice deep gouge in the glass... Not a circular chip but an actual 1/6" long gouge to right and a little below my line of site over the steering wheel... It's rather annoying and looks like it could spread if left intreated.
All of my searches on the internet for information keep leading to business "opportunities" rather than people who have actually repaired their windshields....
Just wondering if anyone has successfully had something like this repaired or repaired it themselves....
Dennis
We are all familiar with the ads that show a repair for the small bull's-eye type damage to a windshield. This can be successful if the surface of the glass is smooth and the damage consists of small sub-surface cracks. If you can put your fingernail into the surface, an acceptable repair is unlikely.
The best solution is to replace the windshield. This is not as dire as it sounds. It costs around $300 or less and can be done by a mobile repair man at your location. I saw a man performing this on a co-worker's car last week. Most insurance companies will cover the cost.
My State Farm insurance repaired an impact bullseye near the bottom of the glass by drilling to relieve pressure and filling with silicone. Never gave more trouble and cracking didn't spread downward since it was only 3 inches from bottom of glass. If the damage is in your line of sight as the driver, it's probably best to replace. If it's not in front of driver, I'd see what insurance agent and company suggest. The repair people may be able to do something creative with a filler and leveler -- if that gouge isn't removable.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Maybe it wasn't a rock that hit me yesterday... At first I thought and hoped it was a large bug because some small portion of whatever it was had stuck to the windshield... I hoped it was a bug so I hit the washers and whatever was left there washed off and left what looked like a dark stain like big remains... Looking at it while driving (not a good idea!) it looked more and more like a long'ish gouge/scratch... Not a star, half moon, or anything else that I saw in the pictures on the web. It was raining and I was late coming home late and angry so I just had to walk away from the car and not look at it until today.
I looked at this morning before coming to work when it was still a little dark out and it appeared to be a gouge. In the light of day it is now a pin prick sized hole and the gouge is actually a wide "crack" underneath the surface. Really hard to explain it... looks weird and I am not even positive that the pin sized hole goes through the cracking underneath the surface.
I just went to two automotive stores near to work (the first one had sold out of window repair kits) and bought a resin kit. Looks Like I have to drill out the pin sized hole a little bit in order to shoot the resin in it. Hmm... Hope I can hold my dremel tool steady for this one!
My girlfriend said her car has a chip in her windshield so maybe I should practice on her Ford first?
I'm curious to see if I can somehow smooth the resin to be smooth with the windshield or if it will look like a clear protrusion from the glass.
What really gets me though is the car is not even three weeks old and the window is chipped and 2 weeks ago someone hit my rear passenger door with what had to be their side review mirror and scratched the handle. Looked like someone was speeding through the parking lot and graised my car with their mirror. I was happier with my old car because I didn't care when these things happened!
Thank you.
Mrbill
Your car is three weeks old? Surely, you have comprehensive insurance that will pay to get that windshield repaired or replaced!
Why would you want to Mickey Mouse up a brand new car with a do it yourself repair job.
You asked us questions, and you were given good advise yet you seem determined to somehow fix this yourself?
Good Luck...I hope it works out for you.
Ever since then, when I turn off the car and take the keys out of the ignition the air conditioner will still stay on. Not every time, mind you, but occasionally. Leaving it alone for a couple of minutes, then moving the car and shutting it off again seems to fix the problem, but just repeatedly starting and shutting down the car when the problem first manifests doesn't. I'm not noticing a correlation between when the problem happens and other factors (e.g. length of time driven, number of miles driven, etc.)
In case any of this is relevant: It's a '94 Honda Accord, 114,000 miles, and was just fully serviced (the 90,000 tuneup, timing belts replaced) earlier this week. Taking it to the shop where the airconditioning unit was fixed isn't an option; it's in Tampa and I'm writing this from Arizona.
Last week I turned over 600,000 miles on my 1987 Honda Accord. The internal parts of the engine have never been touched. It runs great and doesn't use any oil. To celebrate the 600,000 miles, my family joined my wife and I, stopping on the spot, taking pictures and celebrating with Oreos and Coke.
http://www.hondabeat.com/highmiles.php?intStart=200
Thoughts?
When I first brought it in, they adjusted a rotor, but did not eliminate problem.
Thanks Pastfan