Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

isellhondas

You would be smart to have your Accord checked by a competant alignment shop.

You probably bent something and leaving it alone could be dangerous or lead to bigger problems.

kliu

Hi, I'm not sure if this was discussed earlier, but I own a 99 accord and when driving between 40 - 50 mphs, i can feel the engine jerking the car. Is there a problem with the car? Should I get it checked out soon?

jrct9454

Our '91 also developed some seepage at the rack; I chose to periodically top up the power steering fluid rather than spend the money...depends, I guess, on how bad the leak is and how long you plan to keep the car.

rnguyen00

I own a 2000 Accord EX-V6 and have problem with noise when going in reverse while applying the brake. I heard a moderate sound of a click while applying the brake. I think only my car have that problem but I checked my cousin 99 Accord EX-v6 and he also have that problem. I took it to honda dealer and they say it normal. Have anyone ever have that problem? I also have my tranny replaced around 18,000 miles, its have a very loud bang when shifting in reverse. after the rebuild tranny installed the loud bang goes away,but I still have that noise click going in reverse while applying the brake. My car now have around 21,000 miles. I only get 275 miles on a full tank of gas. My driving are consist of the following 60% on the highway and 40% in the city. Could you tell me if there is anything I could do to improve my MPG and help me solves that clicking noise. Thanks

venanzik

i have a 92 accord and its starting to gradually drip some oil from the oil pan. i was wondering if this is an easy task to perform oneself or leave it for a shop. i change the fluids and filters myself so i am capable of some things. will i need any special tools or is there anything to look out for?....thanks for your time and help

auburn63

silvercoupe
If your intention is to fix it then that price doesnt sound too bad. The reman racks go for about$350.00-$600.00 plus labor and new racks are even more pricy.As for a reseal which is possible but not always long term (unless you rebuild it completely) I don't think it is worth the effort. I have taken many apart and had not rushed through the job and still only had about an 80% success rate when only doing the reseal.Other than that you can do as JRCT and top it off..Good luck.

mikemw
I have been at the same Dealer for about 18years here in south New Jersey, USA.

rnguyen00
If that is the normal brake click you should be able to hear it with most first brake applications after a change in direction.It is normal as JRCT said but if it bothers you alot you can take the pads out and spray the shims with disc brake quiet, this will stop the noise for many miles if done correct.

venanzik
Not very hard but amoung a few other things you do need to take the A Pipe(front exhaust) down out of the way. Good luck

urchin34

Does Honda have any idea what a great customer service you provide? I have come back here several times since ditching my Accord a couple of years back and am impressed to see you still responding so faithfully. I'd still be driving a Honda if I had met anyone with the company that was a faithful and reliable as you seem to be. Hope it is appreciated by the Honda owners.

accord_lover

My wife's 1995 Accord has a heat shield that is loose. Had one heat shield replaced back around 6 months ago. Could you please tell me how many heat shields are on the exhaust system? Are they all on the A pipe? If so, do you think it would be cheaper to replace the entire A pipe than each individual heat shield?

auburn63

urchin34
Thank you for your comments. Honda or my dealer probably don't know I come here however I don't come here for them anyways.My dealer appreciates the service I give them at work and treats me well there, which is why I have stayed there forever. I have always just wanted to fix things and keeping in touch with country wide problems helps me do just that. Thanks again......

accord_lover
There are shields over just about all the exhaust pipes. They are there to keep the direct heat off of things on the ground as well as from coming through the floor board of your car. We usally use those adjustable hose clamps on them in order to keep the cost down and noise away. There is also a buzz like noise at 1800 rpms or so that is not a loose clamp, that noise comes from the intermediant pipe after the A and before the cat. There is a buzz repair kit that is sold for that one. The A pipe is kind of pricy so I think I would try the clamps until the exhaust parts went bad. Good luck.

snuke59

Hi Auburn63

I know that this problem has been discussed here before but I have been unable to locate the discussion or it's solution. My car is a 2000 Accord EX-V6 and the sunroof has had a slight rattle since day one. What has been the solution for this problem?

jrct9454

I'll let Auburn get to you in his own time, but in the meantime, try taking a paper towel or rag and spraying it with silicone lubricant [available at any auto supply]; apply to all of the rubber gasket surfaces around the sunroof, both those fixed to the body and those that move with the sunroof.

auburn63

Jrct is correct but at the shop we use Shin-Etsu greese, its recomended by Honda and is sold at the parts counter. Either way most rattles from the roof can be fixed by lubing the seals.

bburton1

They do get loose. What I do is get some solid aluminum clothes line, wrap it around the offending shield and twist it tight with a bit channel lock pliers. Stuff lasts and when it comes time to replace the pipe it is twisted around, just cut it off and chuck it.

You can get away without a lower heatshield. But be very careful of where you park. Several years ago a bunch of cars got toasted when parked in tall/dry grass at an Atlanta big wig golf match. Most were GM cars provided for the pros-really made a mess-when those gas tanks cook off-BOOM.

cards_200

Replacing original Michelin tires on LX. Can anyone provide insight on what seems to be many variants on the Michelin MX4. Tire dealers have provided contradicting info. What is difference, are some models older tires? ... between 'MX4', 'MXV4', 'MXV4 Plus', MXV4 Plus Energy'. Thanks.

broncodave

I've got a 2000 Accord EX with automatic transmission. I am approaching 30K on it and it is time to get the transmission fluid and filter replaced.

Here is my question. Should I pay extra and have the lines hooked up and the system flushed (including the torque converter) or should I just have the fluid and filter changed? I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic. I don't want to spend more money unless it is beneficial.

Any Honda techs or mechanic's advice is appreciated.

jrct9454

Firstly, the MX4 is a separate tire from the various iterations of the MXV4. It is T-speed rated and was designed for a softer ride and good rain and snow performance. It can be noisy on coarse surfaces, but I can attest to the fact that it made a '91 Accord feel very secure in wet conditions.

Secondly, the MXV4 has evolved over the past few years, and thus the various designations. The Plus was the latest carcass and tread material advance, and the Plus Energy is a still later variation that uses more silica in the tread and other changes to lower rolling resistance. The Plus Energy is what is most out there in terms of availability, and can be had in both H- and V-ratings.

The MXV4 is more performance-oriented than the MX4, but will wear a bit faster. In general, Michelin considers the MXV4 its "touring tire leader"; every tire is a compromise, but I like this one on Hondas and think Honda makes it OEM for good reasons. There are plenty of contrary opinions, of course...

auburn63

most transmission flush machines do a good job at getting out most if not all of the old fluid. Where as a drain and refill will only get out about half of the dirty fluid. Honda recomends the drain and refills on enough of a schedule that it should be enough. However cleaner is better so this is a call for what you can afford. If money is tight the drain and refill will be fine.

rnguyen00

Thank you JRCT and Auburn63 for your advice on my brake clicking problem. My care fuel consumption is way too high. It average 265 to 275 miles from full to completely empty tank of gas, that's around 16 or 17 MPG. I have read it average like from early 20's to mid 20's. My tire pressure is 30 PSI. I have reset the speedometer everytime I filled gas and everytime it come up 265 to 275 miles. This problem occurred since my car is around 10K, now I have put on 21K.

jrct9454

How many gallons are you actually pumping in at 275 miles? [That's the only figure that matters, not the theoretical capacity of the tank]. I've rarely put more than 13 gallons in, even with the gauge hovering around empty. For this to be 16-17 mpg, you would have to be putting in 17 gallons, and to get it that dry, it would be running with the warning light on all the time. Are you sure you are really calculating mpg by dividing actual miles by actual fuel pumped in each time? Any other measurement is not a measurement at all...

rnguyen00

I usually drive 10 more miles after the light goes on around 265 to 275 miles. After that I filled the tank to full which register at the pump around 15 1/2 gallons. 275 divided by 15 1/2 gallons is 17.74 MPG.

jrct9454

...I can't imagine what the problem is. You're talking about a disparity of nearly 15%, and I've just never heard of a Honda that far off the curve. Wish I could ride around with you for a week...

And by the way, that is a lot closer to 18 mpg than 16, and in several purely city fillups, we have occasionally brushed the 18 mpg mark; for us, though, 20 is more nearly the minimum now that the engine is broken in, and the EPA numbers for us almost exactly describe the lows and highs.

timadams

Something is wrong if you're only getting 17 to 20 mpg. Car & Driver even averaged 21 mpg when they tested a V6 Accord, and that includes all the accelleration and other tests they do while they have a car. They drive their cars very hard and still got 21 mpg. EPA was 21/28 when they tested.

I generally get 24 to 28 mpg with my V6 Accord, filling up every 360 to 410 miles. I don't do much city driving, but I still can't imagine dropping below 21 or 22 with mine.

cyclonemike

I had my SRS light come on at approximately the same time my original battery started dying. I replaced the battery and the SRS light is still on. Could these problems have been interrelated? I was told that the SRS light can come on due to low voltage, and I had two dead cells in my battery. Is the SRS light like the old "check engine" lights that would stay on until the system was cleared, even if the problem had gone away?

I have checked and the dealers around here charge from $60 - $90 just to diagnose and check the SRS light problem and non-dealers do not deal with SRS light diagnoses. They also indicated that SRS system repair can be anywhere from the diagnoses charge only to over $1200.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

snuke59

Thanks Auburn63 and jrct9454 for responding. I will give your suggestions a try.

auburn63

The most likely problem is going to be a code on your SRS computer for power unit failure which would have been caused by the dead battery. The best thing to do is go have the srs control unit reset and see if it comes on again. If not then it was due to the battery.

chandrak

I blew one of my tires and am looking for the cheapest price for my V6. Can anybody give me some info on this. THe prices I heard so far have been in the range 145-180. Any links most welcome,thanks.

cyclonemike

Thanks for the input, they checked the warning and cleared the code for free at the dealer - took all of two minutes and it was the low voltage from the battery - good as new again.

Word of advice, if your SRS light comes on - it could be that your battery is going dead! (Or it could be a problem!).

Mike

silvercoupe

Check for tires at tirerack.com. Their prices are usually pretty good.

jrct9454

Or if your are a Costco member, they may be able to do a bit better than your local tire dealer.

Also, Tire America stores have been known to match Tire Rack's online quotes once you have one. In fact, it's always a good idea to take the online Tire Rack price to a local guy to see if they will match or better it.

I, too, always start with the Tire Rack website first.

mwcarlso

I have a 93 Accord EX with 141,000 miles on it. I recently jacked up the front end to check the brakes and I noticed three things. One, there is a boot on the caliper where I guess the piston is, which is worn. Should this be replaced when I go to replace the brake pads and can I get this part separately or do I have to get a caliper rebuild kit? Second, should the tie rod ends be able to be moved back and forth, or is there supposed to be no movement at all? And are the rotors pressed into the hub or can they be removed easily without major work?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

ksherm

My 1998 Honda Accord EX (4 cylinder) consumed 3+ quarts of oil in 5,000 miles of driving (55,000-60,000). It did the same thing from 50,000 to 60,000.

I don't notice any leaks, or blue smoke, etc.

The dealer says this is normal, but it seems excessive to me.

Any advice?

spokane

Three quarts in 5000 miles is disappointing because that is more than for most engines of your type. However, the manufacturers almost always use one quart per thousand miles as the threshold level of acceptability. Since you may have a bit more engine wear than normal, suggest that you change oil and filter often and keep you cooling system in top shape to avoid further deterioration.

mwcarlso

That amount of oil usage is very unusual. I have a 93 Accord EX with 141,000 miles on it and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I think you may have gotten one of the very few Accords with a poorly built engine. If it isn't burning oil then I wouldn't worry to much about it. Make sure it isn't using coolant too because that may be a sign of a head gasket leak, which is very rare. If your engine dies and you have records to prove you had all oil changes and preventative maintenance done at regular intervals, then I would press Honda to help you with the cost of putting a new engine in it. Good luck.

qwalls

I just sold a '91 Accord with 209k miles (bought it in '93 with 35k miles), and it also didn't use any oil between changes every 4k miles.

cheddar1

I have a 2000 honda accord v6 ex. I am getting similar poor gas mileage as rnguyen00. I do about 50-50 highway to city. Use the ac about 50 % of the time. I get about 280-290 miles to the fillup
I can almost get close to 17 gallons in the tank. I usually divide the miles used by the gallons used.
This number is pretty consistant about 17 or so miles. I keep the tire pressure at 30 psi and do not start fast or air it out on the highway.

I have taken this to my dealer and he has no clue and says honda has
no history of this. They told me that they can do a gas consumption test over a weeks time or so.

I thought I was the only other person with this problem. The car is great but its costing me plenty at the pump since I fill up twice a week.

Any input is appreciated.

mark

elgriton

I've got a filmy layer of oil on the under side of the distributor cap. I'm assuming that it is seeping out from within the distributor itself. Could it be a worn dist. O-ring that is the culprit?

'93 Accord SE ~108K

jims55

You people who complain about poor gas mileage based on miles per fill up need to start dividing miles driven by gallons to fill the tank. You people are guessing otherwise. check your mileage over at least three fillups.

timadams

jims: read cheddar's post again. He says he is calculating the mpg based on how much he uses. He was just stating how far he goes on a tank as a reference.

cheddar: How does your dealer plan on doing a gasoline consumption test? Any different from you just driving around?

cheddar1

Tim

Thanks for the fair interpretation of my posting.
The Dealership wasn't too clear or optimistic on this consumption test. They basically were just following up on what Honda's policy is for this situation. In addition they did perform some testing on fuel mixture which fell right in line with standards. I was just hoping that someone has had some success with this situation.

Thanks for any contribution.

Mark

dudka

here is what i do to calculate mpg's. first of all always fill up at the same station and same pump at same time of day. all of these factor into the auto shut off at the pump. after the first fill up, reset your trip odometer, at the second fill up note how much gas needed to activate auto shut off. take the miles driven, on the trip ododmeter, divide it by the gallon you just filled up. thisis your first reading. repeat at least 3 times to get an average. things like number of red lights you encounter on any trip, number of traffic jams, the outside temperature, and a/c use, cold starts will all affect your gas mileage.
just my 2 cents

camryv6

When i first bought this car a month ago, it was really easy to turn the the streering wheel. Bought i just noticed that the steering is kind of hard. So i checked the power steering fuild and its full. And i no that 1989 honda accord have very lite steering.

walterchan

Hi, to all of you guys. I just wanted to know if 2002 Honda Accord has any problems with the manual and automatic transmission? I already know that there are some owners out there that are having problems with their transmission on the V6 model. Thanks for your help.

mwcarlso

I just got new Michelin Pilot Xgt H4 tires installed on my 93 Accord EX with 141,000 miles. They have about 1500 miles on them. When I checked the tire pressure I noticed that the inner edge of the tread seems to have worn more than the rest of the tire, especially on the rear left tire. I replaced the previous Mich X-ones that had 60,000 miles on them because they too had extreme tire wear on the inner edge, but they were also feathered. I had the alignment checked by my Honda Dealer before getting the new tires, but it checked out fine. I wonder if there are worn suspension parts in the rear causing this. I have done the bounce test to see if the shocks were worn but they seem ok. What else can cause this problem? I would like to fix it before I ruin these tires too.

ed_swansfeger

You should have gotten a new set of tires from Michelin if your X-Ones wore out before 80K! It sounds as if you have a rear suspension problem. Can't believe the dealership didn't notice the problem.

http://www.michelin.com

mwcarlso

The Mich X-Ones that I replaced were not totally worn out, just enough to be noisy on the highway due to the worn inside edges of the rear tires. The left rear tire was worse than the right rear one. The tires up front were ok but since tires had 60,000 miles on them I decided to replace all four. When Honda did the alignment check they said the rear tires were cupped on the inside edge due to not being rotated enough and there were no adjustments for the rear alignment. I hadn't rotated those tires for about a year, but since these new tires have only 1500 miles on them and are already wearing more on the inside edge, I don't think it is the fault of not rotating them often enough. I got this car from my parents who bought it new so I know its history. The whole suspension system on the car is original except the front coil springs which were replaced almost 2 years ago due to the originals being broken. I wonder if the shocks/ springs/ or other components are worn throwing off the car's geometry. How do you check the springs and control arms for wear?

spokane

Your rear-wheel alignment toe setting is almost certainly incorrect and it can be adjusted on your car. Of course, it is possible that worn suspension components are the cause and this can be determined by any competent alignment technician.

Suggest that you go to another alignment shop. The shop that incorrectly told you that no adjustment is possible should not be trusted to diagnose worn suspension parts or perform alignment work.

I agree that infrequent rotation of tires is not a cause of the cupping problem that you describe. However, failure to rotate can amplify the wear that has been caused by mis-alignment.

elgriton

'93 Accord SE

Recently, I went about the task of performing a valve lash adjustment. Afterward, I put everything back and started the car up. As I was letting the car warm up to operating temperature (revving it several times), oil started pouring out the bottom of the car. I checked the source of the leakage, and it was eminating from within the upper cover of the camshaft pulley. I removed the cover and peered inside and around the camshaft pulley but no signs of leakage from it. Then, I look downward and saw a rubber bushing/gasket that seemed to be displaced from the front balance shaft. I assume this bushing/gasket seals the balance shaft b/w the oil pump cover and the oil pump? I took 2 long screw drivers and managed to push that bushing/gasket back into place. Now, how can I tell if I've pushed that bushing/gasket back in far enough so that it's seated correctly? Also, how could it have been displaced in the first place; and by pushing it back via the method I perform, will it assure me that it won't pop out again?

BTW, I had the car in neutral when I turned the crankshaft pulley for TDC positions.

I haven't had anymore oil leaks since sliding that bushing/gasket back into place, but I just wanted to make sure that my method is sufficient?

Greatly appreciate any inputs regarding this matter ,

Thanks

mwcarlso

The oil seal that popped out was probably the balancer shaft oil seal. Honda has had a problem with these blowing out on 90-97 Accords with the 2.2 liter I4 engine. There is actually a recall out on the 94-97 Accords and the fix is to install a metal oil seal retainer that is supposed to keep the oil seal from popping out. I purchased one earlier this year for my 93 Accord EX and plan to put it on when I replace my timing belt and water pump. I can't remember the website I purchased it from but I am sure either a Honda Dealer or a Honda specialty shop will be able to help you get one. I would recommend you do this even though the seal seems to be ok again. Good luck.

auburn63

As mwcarlso said it is most likely the balancer seal and they do make a seal holder to keep it in place. I would replace the seal with a new one and install the holder.

elgriton