My Solara's moon roof does not squeak. Wasn't it in the other Honda Quality Assurance Forum that anselmo mentioned that he had the rubber replaced by a shop that specializes in moon roof installations. The outcome was no more squeaks.
I guess what is "no big deal" to me is a terrible thing for other people.
I mean, it didn't squeak at all until it was two years old. When it did squeak it wasn't bad, it was just a squeak under certain conditions.
Yes, Honda "should" have designed it so it never ever squeaks.
"Having to apply silicone every few months is ridiculous"
Personally I think there are much more important things in life to fret over. It took me less time to wipe on the silicone then I spend brushing my teeth.
We all all different...to me it's much ado about nothing! Life is short, folks!
It's not whether it is a "big deal". It just should not happen. If you go to a restaurant, it may not be a "big deal" for you to walk 5 feet to refill your own coffee. What would you say if the waitress told you to do that?
First of all, thank you all for your answers regarding my 91 Accord and burning oil. I have one more questions. When the engine is warm, there is a little white smoke coming out of exhaust. This is a 91 Accord with 92000 miles. Thank you all.
I hope you have extended warranty on the "new" accord. Try and get the 2003 Accord. Might be expensive now but long term could be the best way to go. Wish you the best...
Is the smoke...moisture or actual smoke? Here in Canada it's cool quite often, especially in the mornings. Most of the cars emit moisture (white) while it's warming up. Could this be your issue/problem too???
Hi guys, I have been reading through all of these messages and I guess I should of read this site first before I purchased. Anyway, I bought the car with 15,000 km on it and now I have 50,000 km. I have been adhering to the normal maintenance routine but I am concerned regarding brakes and transmissions. Do I have anything to worry about. I have not had any problems with the vehicle and I have purchased the extended warranty for the vehicle. I have heard that this type of car would be notorious for transmission and brake problems. I would really appreciate if someone who owns this type of car could provide some knowledgeable feedback to me regarding what type of maintenance that I will need to take care of other than the normal maintenance.
I have a 1996 Accord that I bought used about 3 months ago. Had a mechanic check it out thoroughly before buying it, and nothing turned up wrong at that point. Several times in the last two weeks I've noticed a burnt rubber or plastic smell coming from under the hood. Seems to be in the back on the drivers side. The temp gauge isn't unusually high, and I don't notice anything visibly wrong, though I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for other than charred/melted rubber or wire casings. Any leads on what to do with this would be great! Thanks, Scott
Now let me see if I've got this straight. You only brush your teeth every six months and don't squeak but every two years! Or is it that your squeak is two years old and ya brush it every six months? Its just sooo confusing.
My car's manual doesn't say anything about a "squeak" or noise in my moon roof. Doesn't that mean that Honda didn't put it into the car. And if they didn't put it in, why is it there? And if its there by mistake, shouldn't the dealer take it out? Or should we pay the dealer for these extra "features". Then again, my squeak doesn't make much noise. How can I adjust it? 'Very confusing....
Check and make sure you did not catch a plastic grocery sack on the exhaust. Had this problem a few years back and could not find smell till I rolled under the car to change the oil. Apparently a bag brushed against the hot exhaust and part of it melted to the pipes. The smell will last a while even after the bulk of the bag is gone.
I had a leak in my gaskets and some type(s) of Oil (lubricants) was leaking onto my exhaust pipe. This created a burnt plastic"y" rubber kind of smell.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap-fill it up to top with coolant if necessry, start the engine-if the coolant is jumping up and down - you are getting exhaust gas into the cooling system and coolant is probably going into the engine-big problemo-warped head or blown head gasket but more than likely both. Generally very hard to fix and you are better off getting rid of vehicle. If someone does offer to fix it-check their track record-this is a hard thing to do correctly.
Oh, I don't think I missed anything...it's just that **to me** having to spend five minutes twice a year wiping silicone on my moonroof is nothing I fret about, certainly not a big deal.
But, you are correct. In a perfect world, a moonroof should never squeak.
I just don't see this as a "problem" like others do, that's all,
pblevine, maybe this will clear things up for you as well. I brush my teeth twice and sometimes three times a day. If I had to lube my moonroof that often then it WOULD be a MAJOR problem!
Honda also has a anti squeak tape available for the moon roof that is easy to apply and last for as long as the tape stays on which is supposed to be a one time deal...Other than that I like the lube because not only does it make the noise go away it also lubricates the seals and makes them last longer.
I had it applied on my CL about 1 year ago. The noise was gone for about 9 months. Now I hear some, but not as much as before. May have to get new tape re-applied.
Glad you can still roll with the punches (er, humor). It must come from mountain training. Now, its my opinion that many of these minor problems are due to lack of Zaino..... Which leaves us with the question: Does a moon roof squeak when no one is in the car? Prove it.
Just got bad news from dealer while performing state safety inspection...need front pads. Questioned whether the rotors needed to be replaced, but was told that they had enough meat to be resurfaced.
The car is a 97 Accord SE, auto tranny, with 42,500 miles. This is the first brake pad change on the car. How many miles are most people getting out of a set of pads?
Also had developed a hole in the muffler and the B pipe...this is not going to be a cheap inspection. I can't really complain, it will be the first real money I put in the car beyond regular filter and fluid maintenance.
...I've gotten 30K out of my front pads on my 98 EX auto. Brake life has way too many variables for any real comparison to be made. My 91 EX stick went 112K before I replaced the front pads.
Got 112K out of my pads on 97 LX auto-why are you having the rotors turned-when you brake does the steering wheel shimmy-if not DO NOT HAVE THE ROTORS TURNED. A lot of places try to get a few more bucks out of people by turning the rotors-if they are not shimmying when braking-no way.
Also I just replaced my exhaust system from the cat back. The pipes from Honda cost around $300. A friend went to a guy with a pipe bending machine and got it done for 150-no honda parts but it is much cheaper if you can find a local to do the pipe work. Also if the pipe behind the cat has to be replaced the dealer will tell you he has to replace the cat cause the studs are rusted off-that is a few hundred more. Don't like the sound of this dealer-particularly when he wants to turn the rotors-would find somebody else.
altair4, Depends. My front pads on my 2000 Accord were replaced at 13K miles because the rotors warped. My rear set of pads wore down to the wear indicators and had them replaced at 30K miles.
On the other hand, my parent's have gotten over 80K on just front brake pads on their car. How long your pads last basically depends on your driving habits.
I've got a 91 Accord EX and when I turn left I hear a grinding/rattlinng sound almost like my axle is broken. I've had that problem before and at last check, there were no issues with the front right tire. Anyone familiar with this sound/problem?
...sounds like a cv boot has torn and dirt has infiltrated the grease inside. If you need new boots, I was told by a relative who is a tech that you might as well replace the axles as well - it's not that much more.
Had to replace both CV's on a 80 accord and it is best to have your own CV joint's rebuilt by a local machine shop that does just that. Don't trust the exchange rebuilts from chain part stores. Look in yellow pages-found a place in mpls that specalized in rebuilding power train assemblies and they did quality work. Don't screw around with split boots and if it is grinding the CV joint is gone. Cost maybe $100 to get one rebuilt and maybe another $150 to have it replaced by a local mechanic/garage and not the dealer.
Can anyone here verify where the block coolant drain plug is located on the 4cyl vtec 2.3L engine. The picture in the user manual appears to show it on the back side of the engine near the oil filter.
I haven't bought the Haynes manual for this vehicle yet, since the only ones available include 98,99 models only. I know they are mostly identical to my 01 model, but I prefer to wait until my year is included. I suppose I could buy the shop manual, but that is somewhat expensive.
So how about it. Anyone out there drained their coolant yet?
Yeah have done my 97 I4 twice-the plug on the back side of the engine near the oil filter yields oil when taken out-have yet to figure this one out.
Also please be very careful of how you dispose of used coolant-stuff attracts animals cause it seems to be sweet and they die a horrid death and it makes big problems with ground water.
Hope somebody can answer your question-just about time to change coolant in my i4
Thanks for the responses. So...think I can sell it without fixing that first? That's the only audible thing wrong with it. What would you ask/pay for it?
Just a follow up to see if anyone has had any additional issues with their trannies in between 1st and 2nd gears. (see #3485) Problem seems to be getting worse, but dealer insists that this is how the car is "designed to shift". - Really, that's funny, because I haven't felt that type of hesitation from a tranny since I first learned how to drive stick...and this is an automatic!!
While I know this is not the same issue as was recalled in earlier models, I just wanted to see if anyone else had any issues.
I got rid of my tranny problem, literally. The dealer gave me $4500 for my 98 LX-V6 - let them deal with the tranny! Then they sold me a 2000 Civic LX with a 7/100 bumper 2 bumper warranty for $9400 (blue book was $13K and they were asking $12K), so I think they took pity on me since all I could get from American Honda was $500. They were only going to give it to me for a new car, but after much fighting over the phone and asking to speak with a manager (I was informed "managers don't speak to consumers") they gave it to me for the used Civic. The real good part of the deal was that they let me walk out of the dealership without asking for my check for the balance of the deal! It's been over a week and they haven't called looking for their $5300 yet! I can't believe it. I have every intention of paying them, but I want to see how long it takes for them to find the accounting error. Cheers!
I bought mine new and it now has 36,000 miles. I have had no brake troubles at all (have never replaced pads or anything) but I did change my brake fluid at 30K. I also changed my transmission fluid at 30K but have never had any problems. I have not had any problems with anything on this car - not even close to a problem. Enjoy!
I had an amplifier installed in my car and when the battery was reconnected it caused my air bag light to come on and stay on. How do I reset this or will I have to take it into a dealer?
I downloaded a procedure with pictures, but I can't remember which site it came from and I'm hesitant to copy this on this board. If I find the site I'll post the url.
Did you find the block coolant drain plug on your '97 or just install the "T" connector and flush your block. In the past, I've installed the "T", but I don't want to cut the hoses this time.
Can you believe that the severe mileage replacement for this coolant is listed as 120k on an '01 model in the users manual?
My car's steering wheel used to be almost perfectly centred. I have NEVER hit curbs, run over potholes or done anything wild other than the occasional hard corner/braking. Why is it that in the last 6 - 9 months I have noticed that the steering wheel is now a couple of degrees off-centered. I'm rather anal about stuff like this so an off-centered steering wheel (albeit minor) really bugs me. Do I need an alignment (toe adjustment)? I've heard that the wheel can be centered by "spinning the tie-rods", whatever that means. Is the centering of the steering wheel a precise science rather than a hit and miss exercise? (I hope is not like centering a bicycle's handle bar by eye-balling it!)
Nah never found the drain plug-just change the coolant every 18 months. Apparently problems with the gaskets occur when the coolant gets either acid or base and eats them away.
Next time I am in the local honda dealership-know the tech well there-will get one to show me which drain to use to drain the coolant.
Had to join two websites but finally got great instructions on how to do this. It is actually pretty simple - I may even be able to do this myself. Someone posted that the dealer wanted $80 to reset it - I don't think so!
My 93 accord ex keeps getting water in the trunk on the passenger side near the tail lights. I noticed a plug missing and replaced it but now there is still water coming in and I can't get it to happen by pouring water on the outside. ANy ideas where it maybe coming from. The power antenae is not on the side where the water is coming from. I tried pouring water around the tail lights but still no luck.
Hey, bodydouble, I have had what you're talking about. I had a set of new tires put on my car a few years ago which changed the way my car drove in a straight line, and the steering wheel was off center to the right a few degrees. It's very annoying, and I couldn't live with it. So, I had my mechanic do the tie rod thing and he centered it. It is however, exactly like trying to center a bicycle's handle bar. You may have to have it adjusted a few times within an hour to get it correct. Once my tires had broken in, I then had to have it adjusted back again. My advice is check everything else thoroughly before doing this. Tire rotation, alignment etc... Adjusting tie rods is something mechanics really don't like to play with in my experience, but I understand completely your frustration with it. It feels so wrong to be driving straight ahead with the steering wheel slightly turned.
Now that you mentioned tires, now I recall the dealer rotated the tires at the previous service so maybe that changed the steering wheel alignment a little. But like you said, I find it so annoying. It's like an itch you can't scratch -- just can't get it out of your mind!
I have a 93' Accord LX sedan, with approx 73K miles and have recently been experiencing rolling sound coming from the front right side suspension when I take wide left turns. The sound is negligible when I take turns at very very low speed. Any ideas what might be the problem and anyone has experienced similar problems??
I have a 93 Accord EX with 152,000 miles on it. Lately when I go over bumps or rough roads, my steering wheel will jerk to one side, and my car will veer to the left or right. Does this sound like struts or ball joints or something else?
Since it's an EX, with a sunroof, a prime suspect in your case should be the sunroof drains. Have a tech or dealer check the drains - you need to thread a 'roto-rooter' through the drain holes all the way to the end to clear any blockage.
There are other suspects, including a bad trunk seal, but start with the roof drains.
Comments
I mean, it didn't squeak at all until it was two years old. When it did squeak it wasn't bad, it was just a squeak under certain conditions.
Yes, Honda "should" have designed it so it never ever squeaks.
"Having to apply silicone every few months is ridiculous"
Personally I think there are much more important things in life to fret over. It took me less time to wipe on the silicone then I spend brushing my teeth.
We all all different...to me it's much ado about nothing! Life is short, folks!
I'm not a mechanic, but I know white smoke means unburned fuel getting through the combustion chamber, not burning oil.
Hope that points you in the right direction.
Is the smoke...moisture or actual smoke? Here in Canada it's cool quite often, especially in the mornings. Most of the cars emit moisture (white) while it's warming up. Could this be your issue/problem too???
I have been reading through all of these messages and I guess I should of read this site first before I purchased. Anyway, I bought the car with 15,000 km on it and now I have 50,000 km. I have been adhering to the normal maintenance routine but I am concerned regarding brakes and transmissions. Do I have anything to worry about. I have not had any problems with the vehicle and I have purchased the extended warranty for the vehicle. I have heard that this type of car would be notorious for transmission and brake problems. I would really appreciate if someone who owns this type of car could provide some knowledgeable feedback to me regarding what type of maintenance that I will need to take care of other than the normal maintenance.
My car's manual doesn't say anything about a "squeak" or noise in my moon roof. Doesn't that mean that Honda didn't put it into the car. And if they didn't put it in, why is it there? And if its there by mistake, shouldn't the dealer take it out? Or should we pay the dealer for these extra "features". Then again, my squeak doesn't make much noise. How can I adjust it?
'Very confusing....
But, you are correct. In a perfect world, a moonroof should never squeak.
I just don't see this as a "problem" like others do, that's all,
pblevine, maybe this will clear things up for you as well. I brush my teeth twice and sometimes three times a day. If I had to lube my moonroof that often then it WOULD be a MAJOR problem!
The car is a 97 Accord SE, auto tranny, with 42,500 miles. This is the first brake pad change on the car. How many miles are most people getting out of a set of pads?
Also had developed a hole in the muffler and the B pipe...this is not going to be a cheap inspection. I can't really complain, it will be the first real money I put in the car beyond regular filter and fluid maintenance.
Also I just replaced my exhaust system from the cat back. The pipes from Honda cost around $300. A friend went to a guy with a pipe bending machine and got it done for 150-no honda parts but it is much cheaper if you can find a local to do the pipe work. Also if the pipe behind the cat has to be replaced the dealer will tell you he has to replace the cat cause the studs are rusted off-that is a few hundred more. Don't like the sound of this dealer-particularly when he wants to turn the rotors-would find somebody else.
On the other hand, my parent's have gotten over 80K on just front brake pads on their car. How long your pads last basically depends on your driving habits.
But since it is a 91, it may not be worth it.
Good Luck
I haven't bought the Haynes manual for this vehicle yet, since the only ones available include 98,99 models only. I know they are mostly identical to my 01 model, but I prefer to wait until my year is included. I suppose I could buy the shop manual, but that is somewhat expensive.
So how about it. Anyone out there drained their coolant yet?
Also please be very careful of how you dispose of used coolant-stuff attracts animals cause it seems to be sweet and they die a horrid death and it makes big problems with ground water.
Hope somebody can answer your question-just about time to change coolant in my i4
Make sure to give
Year
Make
Model
Trim Level
Color
Miles
General Condition (ie rust, tires, paint condition)
Location
Good Luck
While I know this is not the same issue as was recalled in earlier models, I just wanted to see if anyone else had any issues.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?s=a4b2e84a73a99a0b34e7caef9ad92f29&threadid=59738
Can you believe that the severe mileage replacement for this coolant is listed as 120k on an '01 model in the users manual?
Thank you in advance.
Next time I am in the local honda dealership-know the tech well there-will get one to show me which drain to use to drain the coolant.
GET IT INSPECTED BY A SHOP !
It could be something minor or it could be something ready to fall apart! Don't wait until a wheel falls off!
Struts and ball joints rarely fail on these but, still, 152,000 miles is a lot!
There are other suspects, including a bad trunk seal, but start with the roof drains.