Jaynich... I would take it to the shop and have them disgnose this ASAP especially since you are close to the expiration of your warranty. Honda Motor Corp has issued ex. warranty on 00-02 Accords w/ the Auto due to some failures that have happened already... Get this documented now! Not saying you have a bad tranny, but it doesn't ever hurt since a new tranny will run 2-3 grand easily... at least if you get it documented under warranty you have a fighting chance if it fails shortly after the warranty expires.
Jar- So far, all my vehicles have given off the rotten egg smell. Usually it goes away on the first long drive. Long drive to me, highway speeds, 30min or so both ways. From what I understand, changing the cats may not help as this smell usually comes from the oil in the pipes that prevent them from corroding during transport/storage. The smell is the oil burning off and the metal "curing" Something like that.
about that free extended warranty... dunno if i'll get one sent for my '00 ex coupe automatic that i sold about 2 months after you sold yours. i also felt that something was wrong with my tranny..it felt like it was slipping. (had someone else with me who agreed). that put the bug in my mind to start looking for a 5-speed. (i'd had paint issues with the car, and had never fully wanted an auto, so this basically changed my mind). i ended up trading the car in for an '02 5speed coupe right before the '03's came out.
i find all of this very interesting and am a) glad i wasn't loosing my mind imagining things, and b) glad i got rid of it when i did.
---- on a brighter note, the silver paint on my '02 is perfect, haven't had a problem yet (whereas on my black '00 the hood looked like crap after a week), it's a smooth ride and i'm still loving the body style.
If you are able to get the car high enough by jackstands or platform ramps you can use your average torque wrench. If you just get under there parked on incline like I do you will have a problem with the handle, you won't be able to turn it much because your restricted. You can buy torque wrenches with short handles. If you don't want to bother with a torque wrench use a new crush washer every time you change the oil flat side against pan, when snug just give slightly more pressure until you seat the washer {you will feel it!} and its pretty close to 30 lbs . Hope this helps some people charge for this info but its free for Honda owners.
I have a 1994 Accord LX with only 77,000 miles on it. It's been well taken care of, and I've seldom had any problems with it to date. But one thing that's driving me crazy is that it sounds like a diesel engine, especially when cold. After it's warmed up, the noise isn't quite so bad, although it's still very noticeable. It doesn't use oil any more than it used to, and mileage remains the same, too. I've tried higher-octane gas, new plugs and wires--all to no avail. My mechanic says it's probably the valve lifters, and that it's best just to leave it alone. But the racket is something else, and I welcome any suggestions anyone out there might have. Thanks for your help.
I noticed on my 03 Accord EX V6 that the fuse is missing for the DRL slot #3 on the inside of the car. If I put a (10A) fuse in that slot, will I have daytime running lights? I just wondered because I like this feature but it is only offered in Canada. Any suggestions? I hate driving with my headlights on as all of the my interior dash lights are on as well, and I dont want them to burn out prematurely as a result. Thanks guys!
Got my extended warranty (100K for transmission)for my 2000 Accord SE last week just about 300 miles before my original 36K warranty expired. However, I have never experienced even the slightest problem with my transmission. In fact the smooth shifting transmission is one of my favorite features of the car.
Just wondering if you have had your valves adjusted periodically? My service rep recommended it every 30K if I planned to keep the car a long time. I think the manual is every 45K.
Since when is it a good idea to leave noisy valves "alone"? Get the valves adjusted and see if that solves the problem. They're making noise for a reason, and it doesn't bode well for the life of the engine.
Yes, I've had the valves adjusted twice over the past year or so, once by the dealer and once by my mechanic. It made little difference. By the way, I've heard that an additive call 'Auto RX' or something similar may help resolve the problem...Any experience with it? Would using 5W-30 oil instead of 10W-30 make any difference? I live in the South, so our winters tend to be pretty mild. Thanks again for the help!
I bought the Honda Care Extended Warranty when I bought my 1995 Accord new. The extended warranty was for 7 years and 100K with a zero deductible. Price paid was $940,00 back then.Well,it was a waste of money. Never used it once so that should tell you something about Honda reliability.
What brand and weight oil have you been using and how long have you used it? I am no mechanic but I would try something different and this would not cost hardly anything to try.
'00 auto tranny.. Yeap! I had the same experience, it felt like it was in neutral as I slowed down to below 5mph and I would have to come to a complete stop before proceeding and then it started to "slip" between 2nd and 3rd gear mostly when it was cold. I tried to get some assistance from the dealer and when they wouldn't help I went to Honda and I guess that at that time they were unwilling to own up to their faulty tranny design. Also had the pitted paint problems, I assumed it was from hiway driving, but there were alot more than I ever would have expected on a new car and the unpolished allow rims pitted within 2 years too, again I tried to get some help from another dealer (I changed dealers after no help on tranny etc.) and again no help. At least I can say I tried the HOnda route and learned my lesson.
I fell upon this website through a search engine and I am very impressed with this forum. I've quickly reviewed most of the previous posts. There's some great suggestions out there. Wish I knew about this site 2 years ago when I bought my 98 Accord V6 Auto sedan. Bought it used with 29k, now have 58k. Love the car. Here's my info to bring everybody up to date on the "hot topics":
Sunroof - no problems with squeaks.
Tranny - no "clunk", but I've got the slight shudder at 30-40mph, only noticable on inclines. Hardly notice it anymore.
Paint - yep, it scratches pretty easily.
Fuel guage - just started reading 3/4 on a full tank 2 weeks ago. Low fuel light now doesn't come on until it's on "E".
Does anybody know what the cost should be to replace the fuel sending unit? We have only one dealer in town and I want to see what dealers have been charging to fix this. It's no longer under warranty.
Also, I get a "tea kettle" whistle between 70-80mph. Doesn't happen at any other speeds, and is there whether the radio is on or off. I don't have an aftermarket radio or amp. Auburn63, I read previous posts regarding this problem at low speeds. I believe your fix was to re-route a ground that was near the right shock assembly? Wondering if this could be the same problem?
Hello, Does anyone know how long a odometer backlight for a 1999 Accord is supposed to last? Recently the dealer checked out my car's ignition switch and after they completed their work, I noticed my odometer backlight was out. The fuses seem to be OK. And everything else seems to be working OK.
I took my car back to the service department and they told me that the work they did on my ignition switch had nothing to do with the odometer backlight. They insisted that the wiring and systems were separate and what they did could not have affected the light. Is the service manager lying to me? I think it's more than co-incidental that my odometer backlight stopped working after bringing it into the service department. Incidently my car only has 50K on it.
My wife and I are looking to purchase a new 2003 4 cylinder automatic Honda Accord. Does anyone out there in the land of "Honda" have any experience with this car?-----Greg
Hello to all. I have been reading this board quite a bit over the last few months and I find it to be very interesting and always informative. I thought the least I could do would be to share my transmission saga with everyone, since this forum was instrumental in resolving the problem.
I am the 2nd owner of a 2000 Accord V6 EX with 124,000 km ( 77,000 miles). The car did not have an extended warranty. I live in the Halifax, Nova Scotia area (Canada). Soon after buying it I identified a constant shudder/vibration in the transmission at 1500 - 2000 rpm. In July 02 I went to the dealer and was told it was a Torque Converter "lock-up clutch" problem. The transmission would have to be replaced at my expense ( $ 5,000.00 Cdn ) to solve the problem.
Thats when I started surfing for Honda web sites and found this one. By reading everyone's comments related to tranny problems I was able to track the history of these problems and was preparing my case for "Small Claims Court". Then it was mentioned, on this board, that Honda U.S.A. had extended the power train warranty for the transmissions of specific Honda vehicles (20 Sep 02).
Up to this time, my dealer and Honda Canada were not interested in helping to solve my problem by defraying some of the costs (hence small claims court). A phone call to my dealer in October resulted in my transmission being replaced, free of charge, 3 weeks later!!! A big thanks to everyone out there for the help. Keep on bitching since there is a purpose to your madness.
As a post script I would like to mention, for the benefit of any Canadian owners out there, that they should be aware of the following: a. all Honda Accords are built in the U.S. --- check your VIN # . If the first digit is "1" it is built in the U.S. If it is a "2", its built in Canada. b. do not expect your dealer or Honda Canada to contact you about a transmission extended warranty. My impression from discussions with both is this repair will be treated as a "Goodwill" gesture in Canada not as a warranty extension. You will have to complain to get service.
I have 98 honda accord. Recently I start to feel some vibration when the car is idle. Someone suggested to me it might be due to a low idle speed. But my idle speed is above 700 that is quite normal. Does this kind of vibration indicate something wrong is developing with the car? Can a regular tune-up make this problem go away?
I was told a few weeks ago, by my Honda Certified Mechanic, that the transmission needed to be overhauled on my 2000 Honda Accord Coup. Out of frustration I contacted the dealer where I purchased my car and they told me that it would not cost me a thing because it was under warranty. I was so relieved.
I made an appointment for them to look at my car the following week. I asked again if this was going to cost me anything and again the service advisor told me that it was under warranty. I spoke to my service advisor before going to pick up my car and he told me that Honda has steps that I must take before they replace my transmission. The first step would be to have the transmission fluid flushed 3 times. Only when I was told this he said that I would have to pay $390 for this procedure. After the transmission is flushed then I should drive it for a while and then they would retest it before replacing it.
I received my extended warranty in the mail yesterday and no where does it say that I will have to pay for any steps. I am very frustrated with the whole situation. Does this sound right to anyone out there?
I bought a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Honda Accord a couple of months ago. I'm very satisfied and I've had no major problems. However, the suspension is very firm (which is good in IMHO) but after 2500 km, a minor rattle has developed in the right door or seat belt anchor. Don't expect a smooth ride unless the roads in your area are in excellent condition.
Also, the rear brakes are starting to squeel in stop and go traffic. The car sometimes idles rough and the exhaust sometimes has a sulfur smell - both common complaints with the 2003. None of these problems are enough for me to go to the dealer just yet.
hi greg, got the 4-cyl automatic sedan on nov 30. "first 400 mile" impressions are positive: 1) after closer observation of camry and altima versus the accord, the accord has the more substantial and elegant look 2) shifting is remarkably smooth, and it's the only 5-speed auto in its class (passat's 5-speed auto tranny is almost $3k more for its base model) 3) the ride is still not as isolated and quiet as the camry, but has a more solid and tight feel 4) the interior is best in class in terms of design, materials and execution 5) if you don't regularly take 4 big adults and their luggage going up steep hills, the 4-cyl engine is peppy and strong enough 6) it's the most technologically packed car among its peers (reverse-mounted engine so exhaust is closer to cat converter for cleaner emissions and less exhaust back-pressure, 4-link independent suspension front and back/not ordinary "struts" in front, etc.) 7) many nice amenities like remote window-down operation from key fob, which also has keyless entry switches build in, soft "ambient lighting" in the shift area that eliminates switching cabin/map lights on, rear-mounted dome light so rear passengers can have light on without bothering front occupants
from a quality and technology standpoint, this car is the best $22k choice. styling is subjective, but i think it will grow on most everyone as it has on me. i've test-driven and scrutinized the camry and altima, and it was hard to deny the accord even if it's not perfect.
i'll post soon my purchasing experience where i got the new car at invoice and traded the old one at the "private party" price.
also sat inside the new mazda 6 and found it to be smaller and containing lower-quality materials.
I had the transmission replaced in my 2000 EX V-6 sedan. It didn't cost me anything and there was no mention whatsoever about flushing the transmission and waiting. That was before the extended warranty, but that shouldn't matter.
Find another dealer-this guy is a crook-don't trust them to do anything. Have a 97 that is just approaching the end of an extended emissions control system warranty-150K miles-and my local dealer-didn't buy the car from him-said they would check out a CEL I had and charge me nothing even if the CEL pollution warning was caused by a tank of bad gasoline.
They are not all crooks-find another dealer. If you would let us know who this dealer is-maybe others can avoid this slime ball.
Has anybody had a problem with their new 2003 pulling to the right. I'have had it aligned four different times. I am aware that another 2003 Accord had the same problem.
is most likely coming from your torque converter. Let me guess, you drive mostly stop and go in traffic, and probably have moderate miles on the car(50-70k)?? Those are the cars I have personally seen this problem in. The torque converter is usually the culprit or the idle, but 700 sounds about right. The torque converter acts like the clutch would in a manual transmission, but much more complicated... just like a clutch will wear faster in stop and go traffic, so sill a torque converter. I would take it to a tranny shop and see if one will "field test" it for free.
See my 2003 Alignment Entry Above. I'm not satisfied with my Honda. Of course, I came from a Z71 to an Accord. But, I do not like the way it pulls to the right. Taken if back four times. Think it's time for a new vehicle.
Try rotating the front tires only (left to right and right to left). Check the air presure yourself. And lastly, take it to another dealership as they might have a fix for it.
months ago. A few people with the 03EXV6 complained about the same thing, the fix was what aming said, rotate the front tires only. Let us know what happens.
Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, rotating the tires didn't work. On another EX-V6, they even went as far as putting tires from another brand-new vehicle, but it still pulled to the right. I've taken it to another dealership, and the service manager told me he has done all he could to align it, but it didn't work. This is very frustrating....
That noise sounds more like it could be the winshield molding/gasket. Try tapeing the winshield at the top first and then down the sides and drive it and see if the noise goes away. They tend to let air underneath and then as the air exits it whistles..Good luck
Thanks for the suggestion on taping the window. The only reason I wondered if it was something electrical is because the whistle is a constant sound, very linear. It does not change in frequency, just gets louder or softer depending on speed. I'll give the tape a try though. That will be an easy test.
Thanks again.
Regarding the fuel sending unit, do you know what a fair repair charge would be?
Question for you... I live in the Midwest and we're just starting to get fairly cold weather. Since the weather started getting cold this year, my 2000 Accord V-6 has started to exhibit a somewhat faint high pitched whine that can be heard at low speeds. The whine increases and decreases in pitch along with engine revs, and you can hear the whine "follow" the downshift to first when coming to a stop. It's audible during idle as well. It's not audible at speeds of maybe 30 mph and over.
Before I take it in, do you have any guesses as to what this might be?
now that complaint sounds like the ground wire problem. Check to see if there is a ground strap going from the r/s(passenger)shock tower area to the motor in the area of the power steering pump. If so remove it and install it up in the front from like the radiator support area to the fron of the engine above the ac compressor. If you do not see that ground then check for a loose groudn and if none are found then maybe have someone look at it and listen as it maybe transmission or bearings..
Got a CEL and the 2 digit code was 45-never seen that one before. It is a 97 I4 accord LX with 147K and still under extended warranty. The dealer scanned the system and got a 1457 code. They said the Evap Purge Control Solenoid valve was defective and replaced the valve. The symptoms were decrease in gas mileage and some missing during cold weather acceleration probably due to over rich mixture.
About 6 months ago had a 2 digit code of 90, took it to another dealer-was on the road-they also got a 1457 code when they scanned the system. This time they replaced the evaporative emission control cannister vent shut valve. That was at 113K.
Wonder if something is going on with the evap system as both of these things are associated with that system-if so would like to find out before 150K as the extended warranty goes away.
That it is a possibility of overfilling the fuel tank. I have been told by mechanics that you shouldn't "top off" the fuel tanks on cars nowadays. Something about the fuel getting into the fuel vapor recovery system. I am not completely sure if this is related to the EVAP system, but it should be easy to figure out w/ a maintenance book.
Er if that would cause this problem-I do it all the time-have some particularly long runs to make and like to do them non stop.
Will call the service supervisor at this honda dealership and ask him if this could be the cause of the problem-I fill it till it burps-shake it and put in some more.
Oh the engine has always IMHO been a bit noisey-got the best ears at the dealership svc dept to listen to it and they said-NADA PROBLEMO-sounds fine.
There's a charcoal canister that accumulates vapors from the gas tank and feeds them to the engine(under vacuum). If canister gets soaked with fuel, the system can't work and you get the CEL. This is a very simplistic explanation, but you get the jest. I even think my manual mentions to stop pumping when the nozzle shuts off.
My wife took the car to the dealership to look at the annoying rattling sound from the driver side window. The service advisor looked at it and decided it was from residue from the wash/wax they did for new car prep. They cleaned out the window, the rubber trim, and applied a thin layer of silicone lube inside the trim. Worked like a charm, the rattling is gone.
I have heard that Toyota's are particularly notorious for this from a Toyota repair faility(this guy is the "best in the area" from word of moutn) and I have heard it thrown around w/ other mechanics.
I have an annoying vibrating noise coming from the rear deck of my 2003 Accord EXV6 coupe. It only happens at speeds under 40mph. You can replicate the noise by banging on the rear window, but I cannot locate how to stop the metallic hum of the rear deck. Please help
maybe one of your rear speakers is loose... I doubt it since the vibrations go away at higher speed... the speaker grills unclip from inside the trunk... I squeezed the plastic clips and pushed them through... should only take about 15-20 min to check... of course you could always just try to rattle the speakers by jiggling the magnet that sticks out into the trunk... =o) worth a shot..
My wifes 97 Camry XLE has 75000 miles and runs fine but I think its time for a new car. I am leaning toward the Accord because of the 5 spd auto trans. However all the complaints about torque steering ,( veering off line to the right) rattles, and tranny roughness, and no starts due to key problems makes me apprehensive. (the Camry has never been in the shop, and I dont want to get a repair shop queen)) As owners, do you think the complaints are serious and would you buy another, Do you think the factory has correctedthe above problems?? Thanks for your guidence.
Anyone removed the dash bezel from a 96 Accord?, what the heck holds it in place ?? I need to get the heater mode control module (the push buttons module)out to replace since the push button directing to floor will no longer release and I can't get any other function to work. It's hell in the winter with NO defrost. A factory replacement module costs $218, but I can get a used for $45. Till I figure out how to remove I'm stuck! The Chiltons and Haynes manuals only cover to 1995. Any help would be appreciated.
I think that most cars have a pull one way or another if you "goose" the throttle... (ie floor it off a stop) My I4 2.4L Accord does it, and so did my 1.6L Civic... under normal driving situations, I haven't found anything like that yet... All the "pulls" I have felt are from one tire gripping more than the other... then the other slips and you start drifting slowly in the direction of the slipping tire... Maybe other's are experiencing different situations...
Overall, the chipped keys have that experience w/ many vehicles... my GM had the same thing happen a few times. Especially after disconnecting the battery. This is the price we pay for all these buggers stealing our great cars... even Toyota has gone to the chipped key in the '02 on Camry.
Best advice I can give you is to test drive the car. Seriously, sounds like the biggest hitter you have is with ride/tranny related issues. I think that you will enjoy the Accord. I haven't had any major problems with mine yet...
I am also getting a rattle from the rear deck on my 2003 coupe. It only occurs on uneven roads. I also have a noise coming from the right side of the dash. Also only on bumpy pavement. My 1998 coupe never made a sound but this car is very quiet and these rattles are a slight annoyance. I've had the car for a month and it a much improved product compared to my 98. It is an I4 EXL version and it has more features and more power than the last generation. I'll have the dealer fix the rattles and when that is done I'll be completely happy.
Comments
Jar- So far, all my vehicles have given off the rotten egg smell. Usually it goes away on the first long drive. Long drive to me, highway speeds, 30min or so both ways. From what I understand, changing the cats may not help as this smell usually comes from the oil in the pipes that prevent them from corroding during transport/storage. The smell is the oil burning off and the metal "curing" Something like that.
Wish you both luck
dunno if i'll get one sent for my '00 ex coupe automatic that i sold about 2 months after you sold yours. i also felt that something was wrong with my tranny..it felt like it was slipping. (had someone else with me who agreed). that put the bug in my mind to start looking for a 5-speed. (i'd had paint issues with the car, and had never fully wanted an auto, so this basically changed my mind). i ended up trading the car in for an '02 5speed coupe right before the '03's came out.
i find all of this very interesting and am a) glad i wasn't loosing my mind imagining things, and b) glad i got rid of it when i did.
----
on a brighter note, the silver paint on my '02 is perfect, haven't had a problem yet (whereas on my black '00 the hood looked like crap after a week), it's a smooth ride and i'm still loving the body style.
Yeap! I had the same experience, it felt like it was in neutral as I slowed down to below 5mph and I would have to come to a complete stop before proceeding and then it started to "slip" between 2nd and 3rd gear mostly when it was cold. I tried to get some assistance from the dealer and when they wouldn't help I went to Honda and I guess that at that time they were unwilling to own up to their faulty tranny design. Also had the pitted paint problems, I assumed it was from hiway driving, but there were alot more than I ever would have expected on a new car and the unpolished allow rims pitted within 2 years too, again I tried to get some help from another dealer (I changed dealers after no help on tranny etc.) and again no help. At least I can say I tried the HOnda route and learned my lesson.
Sunroof - no problems with squeaks.
Tranny - no "clunk", but I've got the slight shudder at 30-40mph, only noticable on inclines. Hardly notice it anymore.
Paint - yep, it scratches pretty easily.
Fuel guage - just started reading 3/4 on a full tank 2 weeks ago. Low fuel light now doesn't come on until it's on "E".
Does anybody know what the cost should be to replace the fuel sending unit? We have only one dealer in town and I want to see what dealers have been charging to fix this. It's no longer under warranty.
Also, I get a "tea kettle" whistle between 70-80mph. Doesn't happen at any other speeds, and is there whether the radio is on or off. I don't have an aftermarket radio or amp. Auburn63, I read previous posts regarding this problem at low speeds. I believe your fix was to re-route a ground that was near the right shock assembly? Wondering if this could be the same problem?
Any help on these issues would be great. Thanks.
Does anyone know how long a odometer backlight for a 1999 Accord is supposed to last? Recently the dealer checked out my car's ignition switch and after they completed their work, I noticed my odometer backlight was out. The fuses seem to be OK. And everything else seems to be working OK.
I took my car back to the service department and they told me that the work they did on my ignition switch had nothing to do with the odometer backlight. They insisted that the wiring and systems were separate and what they did could not have affected the light. Is the service manager lying to me? I think it's more than co-incidental that my odometer backlight stopped working after bringing it into the service department. Incidently my car only has 50K on it.
I am the 2nd owner of a 2000 Accord V6 EX with 124,000 km ( 77,000 miles). The car did not have an extended warranty. I live in the Halifax, Nova Scotia area (Canada). Soon after buying it I identified a constant shudder/vibration in the transmission at 1500 - 2000 rpm. In July 02 I went to the dealer and was told it was a Torque Converter "lock-up clutch" problem. The transmission would have to be replaced at my expense ( $ 5,000.00 Cdn ) to solve the problem.
Thats when I started surfing for Honda web sites and found this one. By reading everyone's comments related to tranny problems I was able to track the history of these problems and was preparing my case for "Small Claims Court". Then it was mentioned, on this board, that Honda U.S.A. had extended the power train warranty for the transmissions of specific Honda vehicles (20 Sep 02).
Up to this time, my dealer and Honda Canada were not interested in helping to solve my problem by defraying some of the costs (hence small claims court). A phone call to my dealer in October resulted in my transmission being replaced, free of charge, 3 weeks later!!!
A big thanks to everyone out there for the help. Keep on bitching since there is a purpose to your madness.
As a post script I would like to mention, for the benefit of any Canadian owners out there, that they should be aware of the following:
a. all Honda Accords are built in the U.S. --- check your VIN # . If the first digit is "1" it is built in the U.S. If it is a "2", its built in Canada.
b. do not expect your dealer or Honda Canada to contact you about a transmission extended warranty. My impression from discussions with both is this repair will be treated as a "Goodwill" gesture in Canada not as a warranty extension. You will have to complain to get service.
Thanks a lot.
I made an appointment for them to look at my car the following week. I asked again if this was going to cost me anything and again the service advisor told me that it was under warranty. I spoke to my service advisor before going to pick up my car and he told me that Honda has steps that I must take before they replace my transmission. The first step would be to have the transmission fluid flushed 3 times. Only when I was told this he said that I would have to pay $390 for this procedure. After the transmission is flushed then I should drive it for a while and then they would retest it before replacing it.
I received my extended warranty in the mail yesterday and no where does it say that I will have to pay for any steps. I am very frustrated with the whole situation. Does this sound right to anyone out there?
Also, the rear brakes are starting to squeel in stop and go traffic. The car sometimes idles rough and the exhaust sometimes has a sulfur smell - both common complaints with the 2003. None of these problems are enough for me to go to the dealer just yet.
from a quality and technology standpoint, this car is the best $22k choice. styling is subjective, but i think it will grow on most everyone as it has on me. i've test-driven and scrutinized the camry and altima, and it was hard to deny the accord even if it's not perfect.
i'll post soon my purchasing experience where i got the new car at invoice and traded the old one at the "private party" price.
also sat inside the new mazda 6 and found it to be smaller and containing lower-quality materials.
They are not all crooks-find another dealer. If you would let us know who this dealer is-maybe others can avoid this slime ball.
See my 2003 Alignment Entry Above. I'm not satisfied with my Honda. Of course, I came from a Z71 to an Accord. But, I do not like the way it pulls to the right. Taken if back four times. Think it's time for a new vehicle.
Thanks again.
Regarding the fuel sending unit, do you know what a fair repair charge would be?
Before I take it in, do you have any guesses as to what this might be?
Thanks... Talon
About 6 months ago had a 2 digit code of 90, took it to another dealer-was on the road-they also got a 1457 code when they scanned the system. This time they replaced the evaporative emission control cannister vent shut valve. That was at 113K.
Wonder if something is going on with the evap system as both of these things are associated with that system-if so would like to find out before 150K as the extended warranty goes away.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Will call the service supervisor at this honda dealership and ask him if this could be the cause of the problem-I fill it till it burps-shake it and put in some more.
Oh the engine has always IMHO been a bit noisey-got the best ears at the dealership svc dept to listen to it and they said-NADA PROBLEMO-sounds fine.
thanks for the reply
This is a very simplistic explanation, but you get the jest. I even think my manual mentions to stop pumping when the nozzle shuts off.
Torque steer-wise, several magazines have mentioned that the Accord is much better from a torque steer standpoint than the similarly powered Altima.
I have a 2000 Accord EX V-6, and I'd buy it again if I had it to do all over.
Hondas like Toyotas are great cars. If you drive a new Accord I doubt you'll feel a pull to the right or hear a rattle.
Of course, I drive in ride in them every day. I have yet to feel a pull, hear a rattle or have an Accord fail to start for me.
It must be remembered that these forums will attract the people with problems.
Problems are why warranties exist.
Good luck with your decision.
I guess that means I should enjoy wasting my time sitting in a service lounge waiting for my car to get fixed.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ray T.
Overall, the chipped keys have that experience w/ many vehicles... my GM had the same thing happen a few times. Especially after disconnecting the battery. This is the price we pay for all these buggers stealing our great cars... even Toyota has gone to the chipped key in the '02 on Camry.
Best advice I can give you is to test drive the car. Seriously, sounds like the biggest hitter you have is with ride/tranny related issues. I think that you will enjoy the Accord. I haven't had any major problems with mine yet...