Thanks for the advice on the starter a while back. I finally had the time to have it checked out, (it was intermittent, and it finally got REALLY annoying) and it turned out to be some small brass plate bent at a 90 degree angle-- it looks like some sort of contact or something. They replaced that, saying that the one in there had worked itself loose. Turned out to be a lot cheaper than a whole new starter. :-) Still, for a '94 with 101k miles, this is the first real problem I've had other than changing out the CV joints at 97k. Overall, it's been the best car I've owned. Again, thanks for the help.
I'm one of the unfortunate people who has the shuddering problem. I have yet to convince Honda that it is a defect rather than a characteristic. I've even attended a BBB arbitration and did not win because American Honda will not testify that this is a defect and I had no other proof besides comments from this townhall which Honda claims to be all BS...
I would really appreciate if someone would give me a dealership and service advisor name that had ACTUALLY replaced the transmission to cure the shuddering..
I noticed many of you have especially TERMINALIS but I can't get a hold of him. If you reading this terminalis, please respond. Any others with the transmission replaced, pleased do contact me.. my email is motiwala@cs.ucf.edu
Thanks. The thing is i drive only ~600 miles a month. Then does it mean i will do it after 9 months? I plan to do it in 3 months and after that every 4 months. Comment?
I too have a 2000 EX V6. On cold mornings as soon as I tun it on it revs to 2000-2500 rpm for about 3-5 sec. and then goes slowly down to idle. I have the car for about 6 weeks and was starting to worry about this. It only does on cold start up usually in the morning. Its starting to get colder in the NY area and assume it will be doing it regularly. Has anyone confirmed it with a dealer that this is normal?
If it were me I'd change the oil when the car is 6 months old and every 6 months thereafter.
Honda recommends every 12 months/7500 miles under normal conditions, 6 months/3750 miles under severe conditions. Being the conservative type I always follow the severe schedule (actually I change the oil/oil filter every 3k). In your case changing the oil every 4 months is being very conservative . I'd definitely leave the break in oil in there for 6 months. I think Honda knows what they're doing.
Can anyone with the tranny "shudder" describe the problem with more detail? What is this shudder and when does it occur? Sometimes it feels as though my tranny shifts to 4th too soon and when I let off the gas it does not seem to cost smoothly but down shifts and you get a feeling of deceleration similar to a manual transmission. I was wondering if anyone else experiences anything like this. I'm new to Hondas. Got 1200 miles on it and I don't know if I am getting use to it or it is starting to go away. Is there a "break-in" period for automatic transmissions. I've driven a 5 speed turbo for the last 10 years. I'm Not familiar with the new automatics, but my wifes Nissan seems to cost smoother after you take your foot off the gas.
I haven't checked with the dealer about the cold start rpm's, but I will the next time I'm over there for routine maintenance. Has yours been doing what you describe ever since you bought it? It seems to me mine didn't idle that fast before the mods that Honda authorized were installed. Has yours had any Honda approved mods done to it?
I bought the car about 6 weeks ago when it was still warm in the morning. I noticed the higher revs on the first cold morning about (40 deg) a couple of weeks later. It has done it at cold temp starts ever since. I have had no modifications. What type of dealer modifications do you have? Are they for performance of to fix a problem? How do you find the shifting of your tranny?
Vinney, Could it be the same noise as what you hear when you step on the brakes? I have noticed that on accel in park that the shift inhibitor clicks on and off to keep the car from shifting at too high of a throttle position.I am not for sure if it does it in the other positions I will have to check.....
Lancerfixer, Glad to have been of some assistance and to see that it wasn't a costly repair..Thanks for keeping me informed it helps to know what is going bad on these cars..
I could use some help with these: 1. side air bag light comes on/off with NOTHING in passenger seat. going back to dealer for 2nd time tomorrow, will see if they can replicate it THIS time.
2. i smoke, and with windows cracked open in rain (or even in a.m. with heavy dew on car), rain drips inside, down door panel. has anyone seen/bought wind/rain deflectors? where/how much?
3. above mentioned rain drips appear to stain the leather on door panels. it wipes away, but not sure about long term.
other than these nagging things, i love this car! great styling, awesome acceleration.
I have a 1999 Accord Sedan that only has 7,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed some wind and highway noise coming from the drivers door. It almost sounds like the door is not closed all the way (but it is).
I called around to some dealers my area and I could not find a bulletin on such a problem. Has anyone had this problem? If not can anyone make any suggestions?
This problem is very annoying ... as most of my commute is highway driving.
Check all the seals and rubber stuff around that door. Sounds like one of those 'soft parts' is out of alignment. You might try just working the rubber with your hands to make sure that each of those parts is covering the intended areas.
I have a '99 LX-A (14.5k miles) which has white/fading on both Rocker panel trims (the long black strips along bottom sides of the car). I had one replaced after 3k miles. All the other black trim are fine - have been taking good care of the exterior, Zaino-treatment every 6 months in addition to regular care. Anyone else with this problem - possible solutions to blacken the trim? TSB on replacement? Other than noisy shocks/tire noise, great model! (Bought an Odyssey last week. Thanks.
I have a 2000 EX V6 with 4000 miles and when I'm driving at highway speeds I've noticed a hesitation when I re-accelerate after slowing down a bit. That is, if I'm cruising along at 70mph and I brake for traffic, when I hit the gas to get back up to speed, the car seems to stall and then kick in. It seems to me to happen when the tach is near 1800-2100 rpm.
I'm getting ready to take it back to the dealer for some minor fixes, whistling pass. window, etc, and I just wanted to find out if this is normal.
The mods were supposedly done to address an occassional problem with starting. They said it was associated with the winter fuel and warm temps. Replaced fuel pressure regulator and computer. Only with the cold weather returning will I be able to determine if this fix really worked. Shifting is OK, but not as refined as some cars. Characteristics of Honda I've been told. As long as your car is under warranty, you shouldn't have any worries.(assuming the service people are halfway competent)
Every time I wash my car I use some vinyl cleaner/conditioner on those pieces. They stay black for awhile(at least until the next washing every couple of weeks.) I guess that's the price we pay for not going with the EX. I can live with it.
I am confused about what you are worry about?? 2000-2500 rpm is extremely normal for 40-50 degree cold start. If tach. does not jump to that level when you turn the engine on, then you should worry about it. It appears to me you don't have any idling problem.
So sorry that somehow I overlooked your post yesterday. The socket size is a 19mm and for most cars a deep 1/2 drive 19mm socket is best.Again sorry for missing you...
You may be sensing the transmission deciding what gear it should be in based on the inputs it is recieving.When you full decel(foot off gas pedal) and brake, then go to reaccel, the closed throttle goes to half open or more and the speed sensor input gives the speed and the trans decides what gear to be in. Simplified to the max but what I am trying to say is that while all off this happens quickly it is sometimes not as quick as the driver thinks it should be.So it may be normal but it would be best for the tech to drive and decide.Good luck
hello everyone:I'm reposting to better explain my recent question regarding my 2000 accord lx 4cyl auto tranny.(outside w/hood open manually revving engine w/throttle plate)I discovered by accident when I rev the engine and release the throttle I hear a click by the firewall on passenger side.The click occurs as soon as the engine goes back to idle. In other words not as soon as i release the throttle but as soon as the rpms come down to normal idle speed.If I rev the engine and quickly release the throttle you don't hear the click until rpms are down to idle.I hope you are not confused. Anyway the car runs perfect its just I'm curious to know if this is normal or a problem to come later.(Honda Techs)If anyone has access to a vehicle like mine I would appreciate finding out if all do the same.If it turns out to be normal can you explain function if possible. thanks a bunch! VINNEY
Have a '00 Accord SE with 6300 miles on the clock....I've been experiencing a single jerk from the tranny between 40 and 60 mph - it only seem to happen once after first starting out in the morning (It operates fine the rest of the day). Is this the torque converter locking up or is this normal? Should I have the local honda tech check this out at the next service?
I have never experienced a "high" rev like this before on startup. I am not "worried" just want to know if others experienced this and if it was "normal". This is the first Honda I've owned.
I crossposted a similar message like this in the Sedans (Accord 4) conference.
I am used car buying and came across a 94 Accord EX w/ 90000km's. There were two turnoff's. One was that there was a rusted bolt, on the floor, close to the drivers seat. Is this a cause for concern?
Also...the engine wasnt as spotless as I have seen other 93-94 accords. By this, I mean the aluminum parts were pitted and looked worn. I have seen cars with more mileage that have engines you could eat off!
Are these two any concerns? I just wanted to post here before I take the car to my mechanic (lives 60 minutes away!!).
I have a 91 Honda Accord SE with 100K miles. Every time it rains, the water is dripping on the driver's and passenger's feet and floor. Looks like the water is comming from under the hood or winshield. Any idea on this problem and how to fix it?
If what you are feeling happens within the first 5 min of driving then it could be a system check that the computer does. If it is later than that then I really can't think of anything normal or not that sounds like what you are saying.I will try and pay attention to the cars that I am test driving and see if they do it but most of the cars are dropped off at the dealer in the AM so it may not be the same.
I have a 2000 lx 4cyl auto and mine does the same thing you are describing.Months ago on this same topic this particular problem was discussed and its perfectly normal for our cars to do this.It's a cycle the computer goes thru w/emission controls and basically nothing can be done about it.It said that cars w/auto trans absorb the jerk much better than a manual trans.I wouldn't worry about it unless auburn finds out something new we both can use. By the way read my posts and if your car emits a click after reving the engine. thanks Vinney
thanks for your input but I'm sure it's not the shiftlever click you hear when you depress the brake pedal.actually you can only hear it outside while manually reving engine.In case you haven't read my posts please do and let me know what you think.If you have access to an accord w/auto trans see if yours does it. Thanks again for all of your input. Vinney
Someone else started a thread in Coupes/Sportscars (I think) about interior/exterior lights dimming when using the turn signals. I've noticed my '00 EXV6 (Sedan) does it also. Anybody else? I drove an '01 Coupe EXV6, and it didn't do it. Just sitting at a light or driving, turning on the turn signals will noticably dim the headlights, and interior lights. As long as the turn signals are on, they will dim several times a minute. Using the power door locks or the power windows will do it too. How many others of you are seeing that with a 2000 Accord? I'll have them check it when I get my first oil change in the next couple of weeks. If they have to give me an '01 to fix it, fine with me.
I was the person you read about with the dimming lights and the other dimming problems. Don't bother taking it in for service, they are just going to tell you that it's fine. You might have to get used to it.
- Anthony
e-mail me for the whole story, I don't want to bore the others here. adg44@earthlink.net
Send me the story, my email is in my profile. But, someone else started 2 different topics in Coupes today about the same thing; and it wasn't you. I'm happy with my Accord, though I wouldn't mind an '01.
I borrowed an '01 coupe EXV6 a couple weeks ago from my dealer. It did seem slightly quieter than mine, but not a huge amount. (Mine's a sedan) It did not exhibit the dimming when operating turn signals/power door locks.
I am pretty new to cars so please be patient with me!
I was thinking of buying a 94 Accord EX.
I'm just trying to get an idea on any additional maintance i would need. For a car with 99,000km (62,000 miles).
I understand at this mileage, I would need: 1) a new timing belt (if its not already installed) 2) new waterpump (can someone tell me why I should install a new one if the old is alright?) 3) Do all the major fluids have to be changed at this mileage?
-other things that I have to look out for would be a recall on the balance shaft.
Is this a pretty good summary of what to look out for in this car?
I'm sorry...but I forgot to look at the Accord manual when I went to the dealer. If someone could help me I would appreciate it!
thanks for your response. my michelins are great and not to noisy,probably one of the best tires you can buy.Handling is pretty good too even though i have the lx which doesn't have alloy wheels.did you check your car on the outside reving the engine manually using the throttle plate.didn't notice a click like a relay sound coming from passenger side fire wall area.Is yours auto or stickshift? By the way engine has to be completely warmed up before doing this test. thanks Vinney
My service advisor at the Honda dealership explained to me (during the timing belt change on my Civic) that since the water pump has to come off when the timing belt is replaced, it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at that time. You won't have to pay any additional labor charges because they are already included in the charges for the timing belt replacement. You only pay for the cost of the water pump.
I don't necessarily recommend for, nor do I recommend against, replacing the water pump at this time. You'll have to decide for yourself whether you think the old water pump will last until you get the next timing belt change or get rid of the car.
I don't know if all the fluids have to be changed at 60,000, but if you don't have access to the maintenance history of the car, it may be a good idea to have the fluids replaced. The previous owner may not have been diligent in keeping up with the maintenance schedule for that car.
Called around to several different Honda dealers getting quotes for replacement of timing belt on a 97 I4 accord-several were adamant it should be changed even if no problems were apparent. Two said change it if it appears to be exhibiting problems like leaking or worn bearings. Having maintained and or driven I4 accords for over 400K and not having experienced a water pump failure-save your money. I would also suggest checking with several different dealers on pricing the timing belts-my quotes ran from $380 to over $600. Also make certain you check your CV boots-particularly the outer ones-have heard some dealers conveniently find a ripped boot and you got another $2-300 to spend.
When I went to get my timing belt replaced at 60K, my dealership told me that Honda now states that the belts are good for 90K. I asked if it was because the belts are different now, and he said no, it's just that studies have shown that they last that long and that 60K is overkill. So I waited to 90K with no problems, but when I did replace it at 90K, I had the pump replaced also because it was showing signs of slight leak. Apparently the pumps last about as long as the belts, so even if it's OK, you should probably replace them both together because if not, it will probably fail soon after, and then you'll have to pay the same labor again a second time.
Need help. I have a 96 accord, LX 5-speed manul transmission. Love the car. There is no problem for the 60k mile driving except recently I find some kind noise when I release the clutch. Each time I press the clutch and release it I will hear a friction noise no matter the engine running or not. It is easier to hear when the window is open without engine running. Just get into the car, press the clutch and release it you will hear it. Sounds like bad spring or something rubs something and need lubrication. Anyone know this problem? Thanks.
On 9/1/00, I bought a '00 Honda Accord EX. I now have 2,000 miles. Occasionally, when driving over speed humps or any other slight bump in the street, the front end of my car seems to shimmer/vibrate, slightly. Is this normal? Also, I have read quite a bit about "shuddering". What does this mean?
I think it's normal. You bound to get some vibration/flex when you go over bumps. You got to remember that as competent as the Accord is, it's still a mass produced affordable family car. It's not going to have the damping quality of a $100,000 Mercedes or BMW. If it doesn't shake or shimmer at freeway speeds then I think it's fine.
Your response was what I suspected, somewhat. I had a feeling that it was probably normal but I was curious and felt Townhall could help relieve me of a few worries. Thanks so much for your response. I am feeling a lot of relief, now.
hi, i drive a 2000 accord SE and au unusual problem cropped up yesterday while i had stopped the car. when i tried to start the car, the key wouldnt turn and appeared stuck. There was only one instance before when this seemed to happen but on that instance after a few attempts it did turn. Yesterday i had to try for over 20 minutes by pulling the key out and reinserting and so forth till it all of a sudden turned. I was wondering if this was some kind of safety measure in the key lock mechanism that had gone awry (the car came with a remote entry system and the car was unlocked when this happened). Any inputs. funnily all this seems to have started only after my first oil change and maintenance.
P.s does anyone know of an online maintenance book for the accord. The wheels were sounding wierd today and the pressure in the wheels was 22psi in wach wheel. Somehow i thought it used to be in the 30s the last time i checked it but maybe im just imagining.
Try moving the steering wheel when this happens. Sometimes my key won't turn until the steering wheel is slightly moved. Probably some kind of inter-lock thingy. I think other cars are like that too. Add some air. Most places it's free. Check tire pressure at least once a month.
No, I didn't actually get a look at the old timing belt after it was off the car (or any of the other belts for that matter -- I had them all replaced at the same time at 90K, by the way). I did look at some of the belts a few thousand miles before I had them all replaced and they looked good then. But from what I have heard from multiple sources, belts nowadays often fail before they show any signs of age. In the old days you could usually see fraying or something to give you an indication that it was time to change belts. Anymore, they look great up until the day they snap. That's why most manufacturers recommend they be changed at a certain mileage (or sometimes age), whether they look like they need it or not. For the Honda timing belt, I've heard that recommendation is 90K from my dealership (due to some statistics Honda has compiled). Maybe Auburn63 can corroborate this information. Of course there wouldn't be any harm in changing it per the old recommendation of 60K, it just might not be as cost effective.
I'd also be interested in what other Honda dealerships are saying the recommended interval is. Does anyone have any info on this? Of course, I'm sure there may be some that would prefer to recommend an earlier change, not because it is recommended, but to increase their revenue.
The steering wheel does lock as a theft-deterrent feature but not when the key is still in the ignition. I would say if you continue to encounter problems turning the key the way you described, have it checked out 'cause you wouldn't want to get stranded in the middle of the night somewhere. As for tire pressures, sometimes when the dealer services your car they will adjust the tire pressure. However they don't always do it right. I've had mine way over-inflated by the dealer a couple of times. The correct pressure should be in the high-twenties or around 30 (check your owner's manual). Pump them up and monitor them for awhile. Under normal circumstances they shouldn't lose any more than a couple of pounds in a month.
Comments
Again, thanks for the help.
I would really appreciate if someone would give me a dealership and service advisor name that had ACTUALLY replaced the transmission to cure the shuddering..
I noticed many of you have especially TERMINALIS but I can't get a hold of him. If you reading this terminalis, please respond. Any others with the transmission replaced, pleased do contact me.. my email is motiwala@cs.ucf.edu
Thanks
Honda recommends every 12 months/7500 miles under normal conditions, 6 months/3750 miles under severe conditions. Being the conservative type I always follow the severe schedule (actually I change the oil/oil filter every 3k). In your case changing the oil every 4 months is being very conservative . I'd definitely leave the break in oil in there for 6 months. I think Honda knows what they're doing.
'00 EX V6 sedan
Could it be the same noise as what you hear when you step on the brakes? I have noticed that on accel in park that the shift inhibitor clicks on and off to keep the car from shifting at too high of a throttle position.I am not for sure if it does it in the other positions I will have to check.....
Lancerfixer,
Glad to have been of some assistance and to see that it wasn't a costly repair..Thanks for keeping me informed it helps to know what is going bad on these cars..
1. side air bag light comes on/off with NOTHING in
passenger seat. going back to dealer for 2nd time
tomorrow, will see if they can replicate it THIS
time.
2. i smoke, and with windows cracked open in rain
(or even in a.m. with heavy dew on car), rain drips inside, down door panel. has anyone seen/bought wind/rain deflectors? where/how much?
3. above mentioned rain drips appear to stain the
leather on door panels. it wipes away, but not sure about long term.
other than these nagging things, i love this car!
great styling, awesome acceleration.
rap
miles on it. Recently, I have noticed some wind
and highway noise coming from the drivers door.
It almost sounds like the door is not closed all the way (but it is).
I called around to some dealers my area and I could not find a bulletin on such a problem. Has anyone had this problem? If not can anyone make any suggestions?
This problem is very annoying ... as most of my
commute is highway driving.
Help!
I'm getting ready to take it back to the dealer for some minor fixes, whistling pass. window, etc, and I just wanted to find out if this is normal.
Thanks for all your help.
2000-2500 rpm is extremely normal for 40-50 degree cold start. If tach. does not jump to that level when you turn the engine on, then you should worry about it. It appears to me you don't have any idling problem.
Fritz, thanks for the input.
I crossposted a similar message like this in the Sedans (Accord 4) conference.
I am used car buying and came across a 94 Accord EX w/ 90000km's. There were two turnoff's. One was that there was a rusted bolt, on the floor, close to the drivers seat. Is this a cause for concern?
Also...the engine wasnt as spotless as I have seen other 93-94 accords. By this, I mean the aluminum parts were pitted and looked worn. I have seen cars with more mileage that have engines you could eat off!
Are these two any concerns? I just wanted to post here before I take the car to my mechanic (lives 60 minutes away!!).
Thanks again!
maven11@yahoo.com
Thanks a lot.
Vinney
your input. Vinney
Ron
vinney - my car is clickless
- Anthony
e-mail me for the whole story, I don't want to bore the others here. adg44@earthlink.net
I borrowed an '01 coupe EXV6 a couple weeks ago from my dealer. It did seem slightly quieter than mine, but not a huge amount. (Mine's a sedan) It did not exhibit the dimming when operating turn signals/power door locks.
I am pretty new to cars so please be patient with me!
I was thinking of buying a 94 Accord EX.
I'm just trying to get an idea on any additional maintance i would need. For a car with 99,000km (62,000 miles).
I understand at this mileage, I would need:
1) a new timing belt (if its not already installed)
2) new waterpump (can someone tell me why I should install a new one if the old is alright?)
3) Do all the major fluids have to be changed at this mileage?
-other things that I have to look out for would be a recall on the balance shaft.
Is this a pretty good summary of what to look out for in this car?
I'm sorry...but I forgot to look at the Accord manual when I went to the dealer. If someone could help me I would appreciate it!
maven11@yahoo.com
My service advisor at the Honda dealership explained to me (during the timing belt change on my Civic) that since the water pump has to come off when the timing belt is replaced, it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at that time. You won't have to pay any additional labor charges because they are already included in the charges for the timing belt replacement. You only pay for the cost of the water pump.
I don't necessarily recommend for, nor do I recommend against, replacing the water pump at this time. You'll have to decide for yourself whether you think the old water pump will last until you get the next timing belt change or get rid of the car.
I don't know if all the fluids have to be changed at 60,000, but if you don't have access to the maintenance history of the car, it may be a good idea to have the fluids replaced. The previous owner may not have been diligent in keeping up with the maintenance schedule for that car.
Just my 2 cents worth.
What kind of condition was it in, I wonder?
Vinney
i drive a 2000 accord SE and au unusual problem cropped up yesterday while i had stopped the car. when i tried to start the car, the key wouldnt turn and appeared stuck. There was only one instance before when this seemed to happen but on that instance after a few attempts it did turn. Yesterday i had to try for over 20 minutes by pulling the key out and reinserting and so forth till it all of a sudden turned. I was wondering if this was some kind of safety measure in the key lock mechanism that had gone awry (the car came with a remote entry system and the car was unlocked when this happened). Any inputs. funnily all this seems to have started only after my first oil change and maintenance.
P.s does anyone know of an online maintenance book for the accord. The wheels were sounding wierd today and the pressure in the wheels was 22psi in wach wheel. Somehow i thought it used to be in the 30s the last time i checked it but maybe im just imagining.
thanks everybody
Add some air. Most places it's free. Check tire pressure at least once a month.
I'd also be interested in what other Honda dealerships are saying the recommended interval is. Does anyone have any info on this? Of course, I'm sure there may be some that would prefer to recommend an earlier change, not because it is recommended, but to increase their revenue.
So, you decide to "save" 45.00 and leave the old one in. Six months later, it starts leaking and you have to pay ALL of that labor over again?
no thanks!
As for tire pressures, sometimes when the dealer services your car they will adjust the tire pressure. However they don't always do it right. I've had mine way over-inflated by the dealer a couple of times. The correct pressure should be in the high-twenties or around 30 (check your owner's manual). Pump them up and monitor them for awhile. Under normal circumstances they shouldn't lose any more than a couple of pounds in a month.