Chevy Uplander Starting/Stalling Problems

sr4630sr4630 Member Posts: 1
i have almost had this uplander a year and the first day it got very cold. i went out to start it and it started and then went back in house and came back out and it died on me. look at screen and it said starting disabled. then it said reduced engine power. now it wont start half the time now and also will die on my driving 55. i hate the uplander. ever since i got this junk i have had problems, chevy wont fix it unless i pay for it. sounds like chevy needs to do a recall on them. also i had lights problem to but the second dealership upgraded a box for me. then its still about the same. nobody told me about the algnatior needing changed.


  • bracan455bracan455 Member Posts: 5

    I just purchased a used 2005 Chevy Uplander LT model, I observed that when I'm idle/On-nuetral or waiting for a green light on an intersection the engine skakes a bit but when I step on the gas is goes away. I had a oil change done and a tune-up done as well but it still shakes. The good thing is the egine does not die. Does anyone experienced this in their Uplander? please let me know how you fixed it?

  • jmb66jmb66 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having a similar problem Only about 50% of the time does it start first try. I am unable to use my remote starter that came with it as it is too unreliable. Very frustrated with this vehicle.
  • unlimited1unlimited1 Member Posts: 2
    i had same problem as post 1 on my 06 uplander i went out today tuck started right up went insidehouse came out 20 min later truck was off battery was dead , jump battey cannot get veicle to start,starter displays on dash can any body help or know of simmilar problem,
  • unlimited1unlimited1 Member Posts: 2
    it started couple weeks ago with not starting on first try i had to step on gas pedal,and now cranks no start,it seems like it not getting any fuel going threw and after cranking it for about 5 sec it displays on display starting dissable,
  • leap64leap64 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2006 uplander and it just stalls going down the road, plenty of gas anyone have any ideas?
  • todd1969todd1969 Member Posts: 1
    My Uplander went into the shop several times for this issue. The dealer re-programed the computer 3 times before telling me it was a normal shake. My guss is that is what they say when the problem can't be fixed. Filed a complaint with GM and nothing was done about it. Other than this problem, the Uplander has been ok.
  • biajodibiajodi Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to post that I too had a problem with my Uplander, I kept getting the error message "Reduced Engine Speed" had to pull over on the side of the road and restart the car. Just got my van back and it is working liking a new car. It was the Throttle Body and it was fixed by Triple D in Lombard, Il. Before you sink lots of money into a computer, battery etc.... try the throttle body first.
  • davecavalieredavecavaliere Member Posts: 1
    We have 2005 Uplander with 140K. It was hard to start and we replaced the fuel pump. It improved but still needs to be restarted 1 or 2 times before it stays on. any ideas?
  • genmtrfangenmtrfan Member Posts: 78
    Earlier in this thread someone suggested to clean the mass airflow sensor-cleaner specifically made for this-and spray cleaner into the throttle body. I did that this weekend and I'm back to only starting it once, which is great for remote start issues.
  • davemc883davemc883 Member Posts: 1
    I second the throttle body, I cleaned my 05's tonight and it's started first try with no hesitation 5-6 times since. It was needing me to hit the throttle to start every time before.
  • chevytrialchevytrial Member Posts: 1
    Can you tell us which specific spray you used to clean the mass air flow & throttle body?
  • beetleabeetlea Member Posts: 1
    I have had reduced engine power messages with accompanying stalling and low power such that I could not drive any faster than 20 to 30 miles per hour (kind of limits your driving ability and choice of roads). This problem is very intermittent but more common in the cold weather. I bought the car when it had about 30,000 miles and the problem started almost immediately. I have held on to the car because it has a handicapped accessory which I love. My mechanic said that it is a throttle body failure, a common problem with these vehicles and that it may be on its way to a recall. Is there a way to make this known to Chevy or the powers that be to include my vehicle on some list? This is obviously a safety issue, especially if I breakdown with my completely handicapped relative who is unable to walk or move.
  • fcitrolofcitrolo Member Posts: 2
    Our 2006 Chevy Uplander LS with 105,000 km is also now getting the "reduced engine power" message. Had my mechanic scan for codes and it came up with P1516 throttle body code.
  • spencer18spencer18 Member Posts: 1
    started yesterday. started van for warm up came back some 10 minutes later and van was off. tried to crank it again,but would not start.I tried some 2 hours later and van started right up ,but only lasted for about 5 seconds. This is whats happens every time i try to start it now. start up for 5 seconds and then it dies. help if you have any suggestions
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Sounds like an issue with the anti theft system. Have you replaced your battery recently or had to jump start it because it was dead?
  • juliendbjuliendb Member Posts: 1
    There is no recalls for uplander throttle bodies, but they're usually under warranty up to 150k.

    The first thing you have to do is to clean out the throttle body, wich is located to the right of the engine (look for the air intake elbow). You can remove it by unplugging the harness hooked to it and removing the air intake elbow first. then unscrew the two 10mm nuts that holds the two hoses under the TB, remove the hoses and you have access to the two 10mm nuts that are screwed on the same studs. then there's two screws on the top of the TB and you can remove it by pulling it out.

    Now there's a plastic cap on the side of it wich is held in place by six metal clips. Remove it, then you will see a white plastic gear, wich you also remove. Spray some contact cleaner and compressed air in the hole of the sensor, and clean out the throttle itself with degreaser.

    Reassemble, and go for a road test.

    If the problem is not fixed, then you need a new throttle body.
  • plakateplakate Member Posts: 2
    My 2006 Uplander, no history of starting problems, suddenly won't start. I hear a rapid click as long as the key is in "start" position and the engine picture lights up until the key is removed. Recent service was done to correct poor mpg numbers. The repair shop flushed the fuel injection system. Some weeks prior to that, a check engine light was solved by replacing a sensor located over the gas tank.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Sorry to hear that your Uplander is giving you troubles. Were you previously working with a GM dealership for service, or was this at a non-GM shop?
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • plakateplakate Member Posts: 2
    Non-GM with Internet access.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Unfortunately, we're only able to work with dealers to check into situations further as Customer Service agents. We hope you're able to find the source of this concern with your mechanic and can get back behind the wheel soon.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Do you still have the original battery? Otherwise, it sounds like something electrical. Good luck.
  • willgowanwillgowan Member Posts: 1
    Ok here is the good news... It's fixable, and the people that did your maintenance are at fault. Why? Because when you run one of the hose clip fuel injector cleaners they have to hook into your lines. Well.. Your fuel feeder line has to be taken off with a special tool and if the mechanic didn't know what he was doing he yanked that line off. It works like a spring loaded airline clip. Snaps down and is supposed to lock but if it is pulled off it will not hold, even though it has a safety clip the line isn't held in place. To find out if the clip is held in tight use the fuel release valve on your fuel rail. If gas squirts out u have have if not then your stalling out. This thing is highly sneaky, it can crank and run for days and all of a sudden it slips up and no gas. It can happen while driving as well because if the line rotates to the front via vibration the line will pinch shut on you. A mechanic will holler fuel pump, rail, etc. check this first because every backyard mechanic will just pull it off so they don't need the tool. This line will also throw up an evap code too ( gas cap code ). I hope this helps and for those wanting to know I just spent 6 hours in a parking lot on Mother's Day due to this so check it even if you don't have the problem!!
  • mikewdmikewd Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    Urgent, Dangerous and desperate -- Help needed please!

    We have a 2005 Chevy Uplander that is getting worse and GM dealer cant figure it out. Every few miles the van dies and the computer automatically does a full reset.

    It says starting disabled then it switches to reduced engine power. We cycle the ignition a few times. If it says starting disabled -- we turn it back off for a few more seconds and try again. Eventually, the starting disabled doesn't appear and it starts.

    NOTE: I have for the past year had to always give it a little gas to start even though it is electric fuel injected. IT also has to crank for 2-5 seconds to start. If I force hold up the RPM'S as I drive it stalls less. Every 5 miles or so instead every 1-3 miles.

    NOTE: I have also had issues for 3 years where the lights will flicker at night a bit or dim for a f few seconds. With computer doing a reset it is leaving no codes which is why dealership says it is a matter of trial and error.

    I did try a simple clean on throttle body but saw a more thorough way to do so in here today. I am also thinking mail computer, fuel sensor or fuel pump or heat sensor. But I do NOT know where the computer or heat sensors are.

    Please advise with a series of trial fixes easy and least expensive first hopefully or if you are pretty sure of issue please advise and tell me how to find the bad part.

    This is our only vehicle and we are semi retired on low income doing Ministry work so our funds are limited but we need the vehicle and it is now pretty dangerous to drive.

    Thank you

  • vellaivellai Member Posts: 1

    i have the same van, very frustrating. i have replaced the throttle body.. MAF sensor, plugs, ignition coil, plug wires, EGR, MAP sensor, Battery, Alternator, and just now the ECU (engine computer unit) which is located under the radiator bottle in a black box. its not too hard to get too either but this is where my current trouble begins.. i got a used ECU and just replaced the one in the engin compartment and now i get the "Starting Disabled" Message. it doesnt make a single sound either. just starting disabled.

    it would be nice to be able to find some method to reset this without involving a dealer. they wanted $660 to tear the top of the motor apart to DIAGNOSE a head gasket or possibly piston ring.... this is after they charged me $800 for a catalytic converter i apparently didnt need.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Sometimes a loose wire on the wiring harness that leads to the throttle body causes the problem. I would check the wiring harness. Good luck.
  • wgowanwgowan Member Posts: 1
    for anyone having starting issues!!! After replacing the fuel pump and still not getting gas we had an electrical specialist look at the wiring.. Your fuse block is the culprit. Pull the fuse block up after disconnecting the battery of course. Check your wires on the very back end under your run relays ( crank, fuel, etc)
    if you can push them up do it. Reconnect the battery and try it again. What I dont understand is why Chevy failed to notice this flaw. It solves most starting,stalling,idle,lights, everything that is run from that fuse block. shame on Chevy for being such buttheads!!
  • Hello, I've had my uplander since new, drove n got it it's a hybrid, custom from dealer, special paint n trailering package, I've used it to pull a many a trailer across most of the south east, my wife is from Chicago, she drives it like a sports car, it's been great, all your issues here I get on occasions, but never known why, it's none of the above listed solutions that I can see, I'm doing my first pass key reset now, I've had the battery replaced,, this issue of it shutting down goes on usualy when the battery is going or gone or if my wife let's the battery run down, while out,, buttt, the guy who ch ax nged ur battery last, or you,or by washing, or not knowing, if there is an alarm on your vehicle, n you'll look you will find the towing sensor, near the battery, it cant be misplaced or in wrong position, I'm looking now to find it's TRUE position, it was pulled up high on the last battery change, maybe to protect or to annoy, not many people touch my cars I'm a mechanic since 4th grade and mowers bics, fiats, not many I've not touched or rebuilt or restored, but that senser gets outa position it thinks you have stolen vehicles, n it goes crazy, I've moved it not knowing what it was or where it went, but knew my ride wasnt running, its got my 202200 miles on it not much trouble but this is new n repeating now thru two years of me being outa town and not knowing, it wont let alternator charge, it will set off all the window washers , ignition, alternator, n I dont care how many times you reset the bob, or pas key, it throws it into shut down and alert, so rethink your bitchn, it's been a choice truck, n yep it is a [non-permissible content removed] to work on but that's the thing it was built for to make mechanic a money, wise up n be safe, I'll let you know if this solves it I'm about to go reset my pas key again, n yep I did my adjustments n even had sensor strapped down but it wasnt h aaas spy where I put it, its swinging free now down low I hope in place, but it fired up n these are the original plugs
  • I'm reseting my wifes pass key now, I set the sensor before I started, n I dont leave the lights on it drains the battery I just open the door , n leave key on, I've done it with door shut unit I'm inside the full ten to 15 min cuase it will lock the door or I leave window down n shut door. It makes no sense to leave lights on if ignition is on even if that's what the blogs say, the computer is super coltage sensitive, n any time you loose power to computer it's all got to be redone, for vehicle to run right, not sure if even disabling alarm will help if you disconnect battery , the computer takes over as soon as its powered up 4 minutes, its started both times before I set key in to be re recognized, it wasnt doing anything in fact was telling me charging system failure, n I had been pumping the brakes while ignition on to see if my screen would give me any codes while I had ignition on a. The odometer screen
  • Just started fine, going to charge more then tonight is the test it's in alarm mode so it wont charge the battery either, I've gotten it to always get me home by me manipulating the keys n the computer in the past , but not fixed it, I've set sensor to position that will let it see that car has been picked up front or back , its started fine each time one I set it right , like I feel it should be I hope this helps others n I'll know more when I take it to my original dealership,
  • I pass this on towards my fellow shade trees, n yes I've pulled an engine with a few tree branches, but, you either get good mechanics or [non-permissible content removed] who like to be cute, n some do it to test, some to get you right back, so if your having too much trouble with your ride, that should thro up a flag, to u not about the car but your help, your dealer, your mechanic, I use my certain specoalists if I cant, then they can, if they cant I have too, my family owned a dealership, I started mechanic before then, I bought my first new Camaro in 77, bulk, my wife was prettier, than farrah faucet, n yep it stayed in the shop, till I moved across the state, n went back to doing my own repairs, my car then was a street racer, ford coupe, n I didnt street race by then , go get those owners Manuel's n ask for the gf, wife to only buy you good tools n you use them but find the honest fair mechanic you can trust, n not just anyone can put in a batery
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