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Chrysler Sebring Engine Problems

biggypiggy1985biggypiggy1985 Member Posts: 2
edited January 2014 in Chrysler
My husband and I purchased a 2006 Chrysler Sebring, with a 2.4 Liter V4 engine in it, back in November. When we bought it, it had roughly 46,000 miles on it. We have had nothing but trouble with this car since we bought it... Not even two months into owning it we had to have the transmission flushed because of some problems with it, then, just last week, we had to put new spark plugs in it because it was losing power as I was driving it! That's not all!! Two days ago, I was driving down the highway, about 65 mph, and the engine made a loud pop and started to shake. I started losing rpm's and had to pull over because I couldn't hardly make it up the road any more. As I stopped and put it in park, the engine was making a horrible clanking sound, like there was something stuck in it and it was being tossed around, hitting every inch as it moved... We towed it to the shop, and they told me that the lower part of my engine had blown. It only has a little over 53,000 miles on it!!! Has anyone else had these kinds of problems with the 2006 4-cylinder engines? There shouldn't be any sort of problems like this, not this soon (or at least I didn't think there would be...)


  • upsetguyupsetguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring lXI and the last year and a half has been nothing but hell. the engine light stays on, that sound in the morning after a cold start up sounds like there rocks inside the engine. i have spent over 2,000 in the past year alone and I am just done with the car. I stopped taking it to the dealer cause it was at least a 300 dollar fix every time and each time it was something different but after researching I found that Chrysler knows about the engine problem and has known for awhile now but will do nothing about it. people have spent thousands in new engines and Chrysler doesn't care. I am to the point now were I can no longer spend money to fix this car I am hoping it last me at least until next year were I might be able to afford me another car but it will not be a Chrysler.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan with the same 4 cylinder engine. With 29,000+ miles we have no problems. The previous owner may have neglected it and you wound up with the problems unfortunately. This engine has been fairly reliable if well-maintained. It's been used in the PT Cruiser since 2001. Did you buy the vehicle from a Chrysler dealer? If so, they should be willing to work with you and Chrysler's head office to give you some rebate off a new or rebuilt engine. Good luck.
  • capt1014capt1014 Member Posts: 7
    I have an 01 Sebring and the same thing happened to me, one of the connecting rods (connects crackshaft to piston) actually broke. I had 96k on it but that is just crap, major components shouldn't break that early in life. So I had to replace the whole engine.
    Tell you one thing I will never buy another Dodge or Crysler product again in my life time!
    Now on the 2nd engine there is a loud rattling noise at start up until the oil pressure gets up to par..........ooops, guess what....I now have a messed up valve lifter! Stupid POS!
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    What size engine? Is it the 2.7 liter V6? Chrysler has had numerous problems with this engine up until recently. I don't know whether or not updates have cured the problems.
  • biggypiggy1985biggypiggy1985 Member Posts: 2
    It is a 2.4 L V4...
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Was the problem due to a failed timing belt? I have the same engine in my Dodge Caravan and the timing belt requires replacement at 90,000 miles (per owner's manual).
  • capt1014capt1014 Member Posts: 7
    Ya it was a 2.7L
  • capt1014capt1014 Member Posts: 7
    Nope there were no other problems, the car was running fine, it just snapped.
  • capt1014capt1014 Member Posts: 7
    Here's an update, I put some oil detergant in the engine and the rattling went away, must have cleaned the engine of some deposits around the lifters. No more noise, but now the engine lopes and dies once the temp is up and the engine light is one. I replace the crankshaft position senser and the same thign happens. Looks like it is a new car for me and I promise is it will not be a Chrysler! or Dodge for that matter.
  • observer22observer22 Member Posts: 41
    Until it was evidently massively improved within the past couple of years or so, the 2.7 needed synthetic motor oil. THe 2.7 had well-known oil distribution problems and any car with that engine should be avoided.
    Since the Sebring/Avenger sedans are sales flops, it will be interesting to see how quickly the now privately owned Chrysler will redesign and improve them.
  • esw52892esw52892 Member Posts: 5
    i have a chrysler sebring, 2000 JXI convertable.160,000 miles. The engine has knocked a little for a couple monthes. but then i tried plus gasoline instead of regular. the engine light came on a day after and the knocking got worse, its now somewhat noticable, especially when i speed up. Do you think that the gas is linked to this?
  • esw52892esw52892 Member Posts: 5
    I believe that the transmission flush was due and also the spark plugs, and with the engine, that sounds odd. But those things happen in many cars. my aunt had a lexus and it did the same thing, the engine blew. My siters car also did that before, but it was a toyota. I know that a 2.4 engine is known to be to weak for those cars. Poor maintence from the previouse owners could have cause it also. i have a six cylinder of the same car, but it has 160,000 miles, ive not had the first problem until recently with the engine knocking.
  • 41coupe4me41coupe4me Member Posts: 4
    The 2.4 engines are very weak in the power department but that won't cause mechanical failure. I am unsure if the 2.4s have oiling problems as other Dodge/Chrysler engines have but your situation could be caused by one of these timing belt failure,dropped valve or connecting rod/crankshaft failure from oil pump failure. In any case I would recomend a remanufactured engine from an independant engine rebuilder.
  • owcraigyowcraigy Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same kind of problems but it is the front main seal that has blown on mine. Same year & engine as yours & no this should not happen. My car has only 42,000 miles on it. I had to have the front of my car painted in 2006 with the car not being 1 year old yet because of rust under the paint. Chrysler should be ashamed of making such poor quality vehicles. The 2.4L 4 cylinder motor has to be one of the poorest made motors with them going out at such low mileage. The 36,000 mile warranties are great for the chrysler dealers when the cars that are breaking down are right above 40,000 miles. I am calling Chrysler Corporate office tomorrow to let them know & advertise what a raw deal everyone is getting on these Friday or Monday made cars. Friday - employees rushing to go home & just might not care about quality of what they are doing thus ends up to be cars like you & I have. Monday - 1st day back on the job after the weekend & careless habits from weekend laziness hasn't worn off yet. I am very mad about the whole situation as well & feel as though I have been taken full advantage of.
  • LS37LS37 Member Posts: 6
    I'm with you. I owned a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible V-6 engine. Engine siezed at 91,000 miles in 2005. Chrysler told me it was my problem. Never got a diagnosis because they said it would cost more to take it apart than replace it. Currenly own a Toyota Solara.
  • peodigypeodigy Member Posts: 3
    I found this site while researching the MANY problems with my 2007, On Edmonds, as well as several other sites, there are no less than SEVEN recalls listed and all for the same problems I have been experiencing, Chrysler denies ANY, I want to know how these sites can 'site' these problems and recalls and then have the manuf, deny they exist. No one can answer that question - nor have I found any help in getting the electrical and engine problems addressed. ANY HELP WOULD BE WELCOMED! :confuse: :mad:
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaMember Posts: 1,222
    Have you tried printing out the recall notices and bringing them to the dealer?


    Need help getting around? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • peodigypeodigy Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I have a folder full of them. The diagnostic(s) show nothing. But car continues to shut off, Also, had problem with radiator and diagnostic showed nothing - until there was a crack in the radiator and whole thing had to be replaced! Just looking for others who have encountered these problems and want to know how can sites this like one list recalls, complete with numbers and Chrysler dispute it. I have contacted an attyl, local TV action news and state senator - all to no avail. Thanks
  • mike334mike334 Member Posts: 9
    i have a 1999 chrysler sebring 2.5 v6 it was running fine i parked it and it hasnt fired since i have replaced distributor and crank sensor still has no fire through dist . has anyone had this problem and what else can i do it turns over like a champ but will not fire
  • peodigypeodigy Member Posts: 3
    Haven't had that one. But it would be interesting to see what Chrysler has to say. So far my 2007 still has engine light on and they say nothing shows up on diagnostic still! No shut offs while driving for about 3 wks. :(
  • esw52892esw52892 Member Posts: 5
    Those engines are mitsubishi manufactured
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    97 sebring v6 2.5. consistent ticking and/or tapping noise in the engine, it does not stall or turn off. runs good except for the noise coming frim the engine.
    also the tach is not working,
    console battery light stay on when engine is on does not run off
  • liverboy58liverboy58 Member Posts: 2
    I had that problem with my 98. It took forever to figure it out. It was the antitheft relay. On the 98 it has three relays on the firewall, it is the middle one. All I can say is try that. It's pretty cheap too. It worked for me.
  • derek61derek61 Member Posts: 1
    my sebring is not firing on # 4 cylinder , it has the 2.7 liter with indivudual coils for each plug , i swapped the coils around and no help , i pulled the coil off the plug and stuck a new plug in the end of the coil and ran the engine and stuck the spark plug close to metal ... no spark , anyone have any idea , maybe the ecm? thanks
  • penbpenb Member Posts: 1
    Our car had 52,000 miles on it and we started to loose compression. We took itto Chrysler and they told us a valve spring broke and the valve stem bent. They were replaced for cylinder #4. That was July 1, 2009. We got our car back after a slow return to us on July 10th drove it and on July 18th we broke down. Car would not start. Then we got going and engine light came on so we had it towed back to Chrysler and they told us oil pump broke because an impeller blade broke inside the pump. The end result is we need a new engine and we only had 53,000 miles on the car. For the Valve spring Chrysler kicked in $400.of the $1200 job. Now for the
    $5380 engine they are billing us $2690. Our warranty was only for 36,000 miles but we did not abuse the engine. It wasn't suppose to fail at 53,000. Has anyone had this experience? I really only want to buy American, but now I will have to really pray about my next car. :( :cry::cry:
  • cowboy2679cowboy2679 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Sebring with a 2.7 V6. My issue is that the car takes a very long time to warm up, but once it does the thermostat gauge continues a steady climb until the car is overheating. The thermostat has been replaced coolant level is good, and I have no ideas on what steps to take next. If anyone knows what the problem could be thank you in advance.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    The past history of the 2.7 v6 engine is not very good. Four or five years ago these engines had a sludging problem and problems with the timing chain. I'm not so sure if these issues have been resolved. The local Dodge-Chrysler dealer always has lots of Chargers or 300's with this engine on their lot. I think it's because buyers stay away from this engine. If Chrysler is willing to pay half the cost you're probably better off taking them up on it and replace the engine. Try to get at least a 50,000 mile warranty on the engine. Good luck.
  • thecardocthecardoc Member Posts: 3
    After installng new water pump now no start. 2002 sebring 2.7L . The timming chain was absolutly positively right on the marks . And just to make shure I cranked it through about 10 to 12 rotations to get the marks to align again. And they were still right on the money. I get 150 to 180 psi compression on all cyls . Cranks good and fast has spark. No codes show up on my OTC genisys. Did try replacing the cam sensor with no results. Any help or coments welcome.
  • thecardocthecardoc Member Posts: 3
    Found the problem . The LH cam sprocket had the wrong reluctor ring on it . It would not sync up with the crank sensor . The cam sprocket has a series on windows cut in it with 1 , 2 ,or 3 groups of window slits in different order the
    replacement one I got had them in a different sequence than the original
  • bena8837bena8837 Member Posts: 26
    My daughter has a 05 Chrysler Sebring with about 110K miles. The timing belt broke while driving down the highway, so it died. Took to mechanic and he said it was the timing belt that had broken. Had it replaced about 2 month ago. Now it has started with a humming noise at about 2500 Rpm. What is the best way to isolate the problem. As anyone familiar with the 2.4 knows, you can't even see the drive belt on the engine. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, OMB
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan with the same engine. Timing belt replacement is recommended at 90k in the owner's manual. It is a good idea to change the water pump and maybe even the belt pre-tensioner when the timing belt is changed. See if you can get a good mechanic to ride with you; he may be able to isolate what the problem is after hearing it. Good luck.
  • sassygirlsassygirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Sebring with that engine size my problem is 3 weeks ago i had an oil change and i only put the synthetic oil in my engine well 2 days later i started my car and i heard this awful noise and the engine was tapping the mechanic i took it to had it for a week i got it back on a tuesday he informed me he put oil in my car and drove it and he told me my car may have engine damage or the valves were loose and if i could stand the noise it was ok well i was on my way to my National Guard Drills on a sat morning and my engine made this noise like metal on metal and the engine froze up and stopped i have 66.632 miles on my car i will have to either buy a new engine or trade it in my car is paid off and i did not want to do this all over again.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Your post is impossible to decipher, think maybe you can write a complete sentence, maybe throw in a comma or period here and there, you know, to kind of break up your thoughts?
  • sebring099sebring099 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Sebring has started doing weird things while going down the road. My check engine light and security light are the only 2 lights that come on and then the speedometer and rpm gauges dip. It lasts for just a second and the car picks back up and does fine. Sometimes it goes for days before it does it again and then sometimes 3 or 4 times a day. It runs rough for a few minutes after it happens and then runs fine. Sometimes when i stop after a short time it just dies,but starts right back up. If anyone knows anything i would love to hear from you......
  • azzuraazzura Member Posts: 7
  • 1946larry1946larry Member Posts: 1
    Engine temp gauge gets hot then normal then hot then normal
    Steam comes from under the hood sometimes - A/C compressor, evap., radiator have been replaced. Was working fine until I had the oil changed, then again started with the hot than normal. I do not want to get stuck in rush hour traffic
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    did you replace the thermostat
  • chellno1chellno1 Member Posts: 1
    Could you tell me how you knew that you needed a water pump? Was your car running hot?
  • thecardocthecardoc Member Posts: 3
    That was the easy part , it was leaking .
  • mikeyboyazmikeyboyaz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 chrysler sebring that I bought used. It has 87000 miles on it and everything was fine up until today. I went out and started the car to warm it up. The car was running fine and then it started idling rough and died. I tried starting the car back up, but all it did was crank. The engine is the 2.4L 4cylinder DOHC. I have replaced all the fuses and relays but I am still having this problem. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Did you replace the timing belt? If it's the timing belt, hopefully no damage was done to your engine. Good luck.
  • chappy8599chappy8599 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 sebring that will run for a bit then die. if i try too start it it wont kick over. after letting it sit for a long while it will start and run then die. its getting fuel if it starts it sounds all boged down. any help with this my auto tech is dumb founded.
  • a1cmugsa1cmugs Member Posts: 3
    01 Limited Conv; Mine done the same thing 2 weeks ago.. It turned out the crankshaft sensoe was going out. 300.00 later it is running back to normal.
    Mine would idle fine but when you started accellerating it would spit sputter, tach meter jumps up down, check engine light comes on and it would show code for crankshaft sensor or engine misfire. Turn you key switch on and off about 5 times and you digital odometer will show the error codes..
    Hope this helps.. :sick:
  • topdownalwaystopdownalways Member Posts: 2
    I have an '02 Sebring Convertible, 2.7 V6 LXi and the plastic nipple that takes the flow from the top of the thermostat is cracked and leaking. I tried to epoxy it but the crack returned. Is there a repair kit that alows me to just screw in a new nipple, or do i have to replace the whole tank?
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    Plastic Welding Kit
    * Weld all types of plastic
    * Locking regulator with adjusting dial
    * Gauge scale measures in 1/10ths

    Includes 12 ft. hose. 110V; 1/4'' NPT inlet; 15 PSI maximum scale pressure
    ITEM 41592-1VGA

    You can find this at:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41592&?utm_sour- ce=internet_email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=0510A&utm_content=v1
  • topdownalwaystopdownalways Member Posts: 2
    Thanks! I'm sure the plastoc tank is $250 or more...
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Member Posts: 108
    Do a compression check, if it's high, your converter is burned out !
    And the exhaust is pluged up !

    You could have broken a rocker , remove valve cover and check to make sure !

    Hope it's not your timing ! Good Luck !
  • helodudehelodude Member Posts: 1
    Hey All, I recently had the 2.7 in my convertible decide to lock up after an oil change. Pulled the valve cover off and found tons of sludge in the engine (98,000 miles). Bought a replacement engine and now can't get it to rev past 2500 rpm..Have changed the Crank and Cam sensors and have checked all the wiring. Also get a check engine light and a failure code that shows timing issue. Any one else had this problem after an engine change or am I just the lucky one?
  • jjrandjjrand Member Posts: 1
    did you get an answer ?
    My 99 sebring just dies while driving....but I can put car in neutral ...shut of ignition and start car right back up......this goes on every few miles.
  • erk11erk11 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    It's the crankshaft positioning sensor. My 99 Sebring did the exact same thing..and that's what it was. About $300 fixed at a shop.
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