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Chrysler Sebring Engine Problems



  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan with the same engine. Timing belt replacement is recommended at 90k in the owner's manual. It is a good idea to change the water pump and maybe even the belt pre-tensioner when the timing belt is changed. See if you can get a good mechanic to ride with you; he may be able to isolate what the problem is after hearing it. Good luck.
  • I have a 2001 Sebring with that engine size my problem is 3 weeks ago i had an oil change and i only put the synthetic oil in my engine well 2 days later i started my car and i heard this awful noise and the engine was tapping the mechanic i took it to had it for a week i got it back on a tuesday he informed me he put oil in my car and drove it and he told me my car may have engine damage or the valves were loose and if i could stand the noise it was ok well i was on my way to my National Guard Drills on a sat morning and my engine made this noise like metal on metal and the engine froze up and stopped i have 66.632 miles on my car i will have to either buy a new engine or trade it in my car is paid off and i did not want to do this all over again.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Your post is impossible to decipher, think maybe you can write a complete sentence, maybe throw in a comma or period here and there, you know, to kind of break up your thoughts?
  • My 99 Sebring has started doing weird things while going down the road. My check engine light and security light are the only 2 lights that come on and then the speedometer and rpm gauges dip. It lasts for just a second and the car picks back up and does fine. Sometimes it goes for days before it does it again and then sometimes 3 or 4 times a day. It runs rough for a few minutes after it happens and then runs fine. Sometimes when i stop after a short time it just dies,but starts right back up. If anyone knows anything i would love to hear from you......
  • azzuraazzura Posts: 7
  • Engine temp gauge gets hot then normal then hot then normal
    Steam comes from under the hood sometimes - A/C compressor, evap., radiator have been replaced. Was working fine until I had the oil changed, then again started with the hot than normal. I do not want to get stuck in rush hour traffic
  • maloprmalopr Posts: 14
    did you replace the thermostat
  • Could you tell me how you knew that you needed a water pump? Was your car running hot?
  • That was the easy part , it was leaking .
  • I have a 2005 chrysler sebring that I bought used. It has 87000 miles on it and everything was fine up until today. I went out and started the car to warm it up. The car was running fine and then it started idling rough and died. I tried starting the car back up, but all it did was crank. The engine is the 2.4L 4cylinder DOHC. I have replaced all the fuses and relays but I am still having this problem. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Did you replace the timing belt? If it's the timing belt, hopefully no damage was done to your engine. Good luck.
  • I have a 98 sebring that will run for a bit then die. if i try too start it it wont kick over. after letting it sit for a long while it will start and run then die. its getting fuel if it starts it sounds all boged down. any help with this my auto tech is dumb founded.
  • 01 Limited Conv; Mine done the same thing 2 weeks ago.. It turned out the crankshaft sensoe was going out. 300.00 later it is running back to normal.
    Mine would idle fine but when you started accellerating it would spit sputter, tach meter jumps up down, check engine light comes on and it would show code for crankshaft sensor or engine misfire. Turn you key switch on and off about 5 times and you digital odometer will show the error codes..
    Hope this helps.. :sick:
  • I have an '02 Sebring Convertible, 2.7 V6 LXi and the plastic nipple that takes the flow from the top of the thermostat is cracked and leaking. I tried to epoxy it but the crack returned. Is there a repair kit that alows me to just screw in a new nipple, or do i have to replace the whole tank?
  • maloprmalopr Posts: 14
    Plastic Welding Kit
    * Weld all types of plastic
    * Locking regulator with adjusting dial
    * Gauge scale measures in 1/10ths

    Includes 12 ft. hose. 110V; 1/4'' NPT inlet; 15 PSI maximum scale pressure
    ITEM 41592-1VGA

    You can find this at: ce=internet_email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=0510A&utm_content=v1
  • Thanks! I'm sure the plastoc tank is $250 or more...
  • Do a compression check, if it's high, your converter is burned out !
    And the exhaust is pluged up !

    You could have broken a rocker , remove valve cover and check to make sure !

    Hope it's not your timing ! Good Luck !
  • helodudehelodude Posts: 1
    Hey All, I recently had the 2.7 in my convertible decide to lock up after an oil change. Pulled the valve cover off and found tons of sludge in the engine (98,000 miles). Bought a replacement engine and now can't get it to rev past 2500 rpm..Have changed the Crank and Cam sensors and have checked all the wiring. Also get a check engine light and a failure code that shows timing issue. Any one else had this problem after an engine change or am I just the lucky one?
  • jjrandjjrand Posts: 1
    did you get an answer ?
    My 99 sebring just dies while driving....but I can put car in neutral ...shut of ignition and start car right back up......this goes on every few miles.
  • erk11erk11 Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    It's the crankshaft positioning sensor. My 99 Sebring did the exact same thing..and that's what it was. About $300 fixed at a shop.
  • kknuthkknuth Posts: 2
    CarDoc: I am having the same problem. Where did you get your parts from? I bought mine from an ebay seller. I don't want to tear this all apart and do it over if this isn't the problem. But like you I can't figure out any other reason that this won't start! Compression is good. Spark is there. Spraying some carb cleaner down the TB did get a stutter and backfire but thats it.
  • luis88787luis88787 Posts: 2
    just disconnect your camshaft senser and it will turn on with a 10 second delay but it never fails
  • kknuthkknuth Posts: 2
    Yes, it was due to bad parts from eBay. The timing windows on the camshaft gear were not the same as stock. Put the old gear back on and it started right up.
  • Hello, I had just recently bought a 1999 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.5l V6 Mitsubishi Engine. It was working well and fine until I merged back onto the freeway from getting fuel. It then appeared to have switched a gear, or stuck. Nonetheless, the major problem arises from the white smoke blowing from the Exhaust and the Oil Intake on the engine is quite smoky when I take it off to add Oil. I have a hunch that it is a blown Head-Gasket or Oil Rings, but I'm not too sure and don't want to get ahead of myself. I simply want a remedy to my situation as I'm not mechanically-inclined myself. Pictures of under the hood can be available, and more information to help is available on request. Thank you.
  • sbirdsallsbirdsall Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    i have a 99 sebring convertible that is acting up...when i press down on the gas it doesnt speed up like normal. When i go i have to press it & then let up & then press it again to get up to speed. I have replaced the gas cap because we thought thats what it was but that didnt really help. Any ideas or has anyone had this problem before?
  • axel92axel92 Posts: 3
    try the master fuses.or the fuel pump ,fuel filter.dose it click or make a sound
  • axel92axel92 Posts: 3
    yes for sheer it probably burnt an warped the valve.
  • gtwingtwin Posts: 1
    I bought this car three weeks ago, and drove approximately 550 miles. I paid $2750 and was told that it had been checked out and was running fine. Had some cosmetic damage and hood was dented a little, resulting in airbag deployment. The transmission slipped at 35 mph, and I could smell oil burning, so I took it to Jiffy Lube four days later. They said all of the fluid were good, and there was an oil and transmission leak. I took it to Nissan dealership to a friend, and cleaned the bottom that was encrusted in oil and transmission fluid. I went back a week later, so we could see where the leak was coming from. The oil switch was leaking, and it needed a new transmission gasket. I was also told that the airbag light was on because the airbag had deployed and was not fixed properly, and it would cost $800 to fix to get it to pass inspection. My friend was going to fix the leaks for $150 and order the parts from Chrysler. Today, I drove 40 miles, filled up $50 worth of gas, and the engine stalled at a light. Restarted and engine stalled again. It began making a clicking noise and would not turn over again. Upon inspection, all of the fluids were at good levels and clean. The new battery was charged twice and still would not start. He tried to turn the motor from the bottom and it was frozen. Now, I am out the $2750 and the car is at the shop and worth nothing. He said it could go to scrap and get $250.
    :( Owner said it was running fine and I must have driven it in a way to make the engine freeze. How do you do that? I normally drive within a small area and only drive 40 miles both ways once a week. Very disappointed. Bought a 2002 Chevy Tracker with 22,000 miles for $4000 that I could have bought before I wasted the $2750.
  • halphalp Posts: 1
    My 2005 Sebring 2.4L has been flawless for 75K mi. It used to be the temp guage pointed steadily to 8 o'clock. Now it's about 9:30-10, and approaches Hot at High speed and going up bridges. Fan runs almost full time. No loss of coolant at all. Firestone thinks the gasket is blown and exhaust is getting into the coolant, but wants to hear what the dealer says. I don't think I want to hear what the dealer says. if Firestone is right, can "Bars-Leaks" help a problem like this? thanks in advance.
    Hal P.
  • 93buicklesabre93buicklesabre Posts: 11
    edited May 2012
    Just letting you guys know I have owned my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible for over a year with the 2.7L engine and when I bought it the oil light started flickering and it would come on and stay on from time to time. I replaced the oil sending unit and it still came on. I bought the car with 57k original miles on it. But I tried multiple different oil filters and I have stuck with one oil type. It stopped coming on when I used a Bosch Oil filter which is around $12-$15 dollars depending on where you buy it and I use Penzoil 5w-30 and the oil light hasnt come on in 6 months and the car hasnt made a single noise since. The car now has 73k on it and I change the oil every 3k religiously.

    I honestly think this helped it. But I will keep you posted as time goes on.
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