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Comments
1. You'd better be driving it a long time because it's going to be hard to re-sell it to anybody
2. The rest of the truck still has 428K on it, so it could nickel and dime you to death with things failing.
You're right, a clean, low mileage version of this truck would cost you about $10,000. So the question is, is the $3500 savings enough for you to take on such a high miles vehicle?
The "Uber Inspection" is a rather breezy affair and doesn't get into things like structural problems, suspension bushings, reading the codes or even a road test. So it can miss a lot.
I think to minimize risk I'd take it in for a pre-purchase inspection with special attention to things like ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, shocks and sub-frame welds--and have the codes read. It's certainly worth the $100-$200 bucks you'll spend.
Vehicles were never engineered to go this far, so you need to exercise due diligence--like if you bought an ancient house. Someone needs to go into the foundation.
This is my 4th longest running..
1987 Accord - 312K, running when sold
2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - 208K, running when sold
2004 Nissan Quest - 169K, running when sold
The problem with high mileage vehicles like this, even sturdy ones like the 'Burb, is that anything can let loose at any time. You need to improve your odds by getting a very close inspection--you don't want to buy it and have to immediately put tires, or belts and hoses on it, or fix leaks or brakes.
While I now enjoy fully functioning gauges I lost a portion of the menu.
I only get odometer, trip odometer, and hours.
I lost all the DIC display options. Trip, fuel, oil life, locking, lighting, seat position memory, curb view etc. I’m a little concerned the low coolant, engine hot, and other warnings may not work either. Any ideas?
Also I can reset the clock but it switches from PM to AM after the reset.
Anybody have experience with this? Thanks.
The dealer is probably willing to bargain on that car, because of miles. That's a lot of miles.