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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems



  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    cheack and replace bulb holder as they deteriorate with age
  • psujeeperpsujeeper Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    So two days a go i went to start my car and it didn't turn over the 1st time. So i tried again it started up fine, or i thought it did. After backing out of my parking spot i tried to turn on my left turn signal and found that it was not working. So I tried the right and that one was dead too. The flashers work but the neither of the turn signals, left or right work. So trying to fix it the fast way i unplugged the battery because that usually fixes almost everything in a Jeep. Well it didn't work. After reconnecting the battery I noticed that now my fan for the AC/heat unit is not working along with the lights in the Treble Mid and Bass and the AC button light when pressed in will not light up. I checked most of my fuses and they are all good. Whats weird is that they are all on different circuits, i think. What did i fry and what can i do to fix this issue with out paying out the [non-permissible content removed]. :sick:
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    Out of the blue, my 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L will start then shut-off: It's accompanied by code P1686 No SKIM bus. This explains the shut-off part but none of the gauges work either. I've seen this same problem posted in other forums with many suggestions but no one with the exact symptoms as mine posted what finally fixed their problem. Battery & connections look OK. Any suggestions?
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 grand cherokee limited that is doing the exact same things, the gauges dont work , it starts and runs 2 to 4 seconds and shuts off, also all the
    warning lights are lit up. Were you able to find out what it is and did you haveit fixed

    Thanks Brian
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    Bad wording in original post. I didn't mean that the Jeep starts by itself & then shuts-off. I meant that the problem started all of a sudden last week. When I turn the key, the engine cranks & starts fine but the SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module)--the anti-theft feature built into the iginition key system--kicks in & shuts off the engine. Check Engine Light comes on & throws a P1868 (No SKIM bus) code. If it was the key or the SKIM itself, why would the gauges go out also? In other posts people have reported replacing the PCM &/or BCM without luck, which I'm afraid my local dealer might try to do.
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    When i had a starting problen a year ago, i researched the sentry key system, because i thought maybe it was my problem. It was not, but i learned a lot about it. First of all, do you have 2 keys? If so try the other one, if it works, then the other sentry key has bit the dust. If both do not work and both seem to have same symptoms, then it is quite possibly the module under the sterering wheel cover attached to back of ignition switch which reads the sentry key and if it gets signal from sentry key, then sends a signal to pcm allowing start up to complete with no shutdown. If it is this unit bad, unfortunuately just replacing it is no help, for after replacement a DEALER (I HATE THAT) must then program both the unit and you keys.Make sure you give dealer both keys, as both have to be reprogrammed to the unit, if only one is done, the other will not work. So you will be paying for the part, diagnosis, labor and reprogramming keys. If one of your keys still works and you don't care about replacing other, fine, but if its a bad sentry key you want replaced, you must still take to dealer, and dealer must then program the new key AND the old key so they match. If he does not program both, again only the newly programmed one will work. I have a 99 JGC with 165,000 miles, keys have not failed, but if one of my keys failed, when i replaced it, i would not buy one, i would buy 2, and let dealer program the 2 new ones and the still working old one, so if at some point old age kills the still working old one i will be good to go. Bypassing the module will not work, computer needs a valid signal from it to allow starting. But before you go to dealer if both keys do not work, loosen the covers on ignition asnd steering wheel, make sure wires coming in module and leaving module are not broken or pinched, but that is not likely the problem unless a short time before fail you had been working under there and pulled a wire out yourself or caused a problem in closing it up and pinching wires, not a likely fail. Dealer must have vehicle and all keys when programming is done. From what i have read it is more likely module has failed than a key, but if one key works its the module. If you only have one key, then you will not know if its bad key or bad module until dealer tells you.Try disconnecting battery for 10 minutes, reconnecting. If that clears the problem, then its not key or module, but some other sensor or wire, and problem will come back. If that clears problem, though, it will tell you to perhaps save the expense of replacing module and/or keys. Call local dealers, maybe one offers to send a mechanic out to replace module and reprogram keys without towing in to dealer, he can bring the handheld rteprogrammer with him. if you are in Autu club, decision is easy, get a free tow. I tried to join AAA when i had a fail, but they make you wait a week after you join to get a tow, to avoid freeloaders, but if you can put vehicle aside for a week, its a good deal, tow will cost the same or more, and you will be eligable for future tows free.
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    THanks for the info but if it's the key or SKIM module, why would the gauges also not work?
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    Since the computer is being told that there is not a valid smart key module signal, it is trying to protect your vehicle from theft, and everything is shutting down. Gauge readings depend on computer signals which they will not get valid signals if computer thinks car is being stolen. A weak battery that needs replacement can cause gauges to go hawywire as computer will not function properly at low voltage. If battery is less than slightly over 13vdc under load of starting it is weak. good batteries are around 13.5 - 14 vdc. I had gauges go crazy whwn my battery was old for the month before it finally died, but there was no skim code, you probably have a problem in that system, logically. You did not mention trying your other key or if you have one. My knowledge of this system is just through online research when i was troubleshooting me bad crank position sensor, which lit up my smart key light but all the other symptoms are different. If your car starts for a few seconds, its a classic sentry key or module sympton, especially with that code.
  • I accidently activated the immobilser within the Stereo of my 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 petrol automatic - and now dont know of how to start car, as the immobiliser has kicked in and accidently activated it through the radio/stereo, when I was pressing various buttons, please can you help me.


  • Hi folks, new on here. I have a 2007 grand cherokee crd owned since new, failed its first mot due to the rear fog lights not working. The log books vague, doesn't even tell you which fuse is for the rear fog lights. Have had an auto electrician on it but can't find the problem. The only other info is I have had a tow bar fitted a couple of years ago and last year noticed the fog lights on caravan not working, but silly me never checked since last year and have not used the caravan since. Any help would be appreciated as I have only a couple of days left on the free retest.
  • Would like to know if anyone has experienced a problem where this no electrical power? fully charge battery, no lights and no electrical when ignition is turned on.
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    Just replaced the battery (only three years old) and now the Jeep will stay running after starting but still having dash problems. The gauges only work maybe 10% of the time and the dash warning lights are lit. One time all lights went out except for the light that looks like a small key ( security ?) . Any idea's.
    Thanks Brian
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    next change ignition switch easy and not to costly could have bad contacts
  • pumpkindaddypumpkindaddy Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    Vehicle is a 95 Jeep GCL 2WD 4.0 L in-line 6 cyl, automatic. When I turn the key to the start position there is nothing. No click, no lights dimming, just nothing. The ignition cylinder broke about 10 days ago and I replaced it. Started and ran fine for 10 days. Yesterday, nothing. Checked and charged the battery, cleaned the terminals. All was fine. Can anyone recommend a trouble shooting sequence? Is the starter solenoid integral with the starter on this car? Can I jumper the ignition switch to check that switch without wrecking something? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • I got my jeep two years ago. It's a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited v8. It was running fine until recently. Now, when i drive it the noise it makes when you first start the car ( the three little beeps ) is now a constant ringing the whole car ride. Also a new finding is today as I was at work, i looked up and noticed my hazards were flashing like they do when the alarm goes off, only the horn wasn't going off too. Really odd things have been happening with it lately. Like it not staring and all the lock go haywire for a couple minutes. Suggestions before I put any money into this situation???
  • I just started having this problem with my 1999 grand cherokee. Did you ever resolve the problem? Thanks!
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    From what I've been reading, with any electrical Jeep issues: first make sure your battery is GOOD, that it holds a load test. THEN continue with diagnostics. New battery seemed to help my problem so mine is probably weak power or ground problem, check your ground connections/wires etc. Been too busy to look further but some have reported weird electrical issues resolved by fixing the PCM harnesses (firewall). Will look at that next one of these days. Good luck.
  • crank sensor on tranny
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    no,i have just been keeping the dash illumination and interior light switch on stalk completely off by day and if i turn on dash illumination at night i turn it off on exiting. I have not had time to see if there is a fuse or relay that controls this, or if it could be the body control module which i understand is under dash on passenger side- i won't mess with body control module, if i find a relay i'll post back, i don't have time to fix, if you fix, please post.
  • cal65cal65 Posts: 6
    2000 Grand Cherokee, 4.0L automatic
    when starting, the airbag light comes on, then goes off for 2 to 3 seconds then comes on and stays on.

    checked clockspring continuity ok. Airbag Control Module is $400, DBDIII scan is $125. Anyone got some likely failure mode for this one? Are the ACMs on ebay workable?

  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    Changed the battery and now it stays running, all the warning lights are always lit
    and gauges dont work, also the elect. windows will not work with the engine running
    but work fine with the key turned to accessories. So i replaced the ignition switch
    like everyone say's to do but that did not fix anything. It is in great shape and i love driving it so i dont want to get rid of it. Any more suggestion's
    Thanks Brian
  • I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7L and for the past 5 months i have had several problems. First thing i went into Jeep was because my sun roof was leaking and water was coming through the middle overhead push lights and on the two side grab handles. After this i noticed my radio was randomly increase when i was stopped i would turn the volume knob and nothing would happen, also that the lights on my temperature controls started not to work.

    I took my car into the Buerge Jeep and and explained to them water was comming through the lights and also that there is a high pitch sound when i accelerate sometime, that when i put my car in reverse it hesitates for more than 10-15 seconds, also about my radio and not to mention an exhaust leak. They fixed the sun roof and a fuse for my radio. They said they did not see/hear an exhaust leak nor did they hear a high pitch noise and that they did not notice the car not engaging in reverse. When i got my car it only had 2 miles more on it then when i dropped it off and i dont see how it was properly tested.

    Two weeks later all the lights in my instrument and gauge cluster start flashing including check engine, flashers, gauges would drop to 0, seatbelt light and if the air was on it would shut off and then turn back on along with all my interior lights and my headlights. When i took it into Jeep they were perplexed and had no idea what it could be. When they called me they blamed it on my battery and also my sound system that i had. I went out and bought a new battery and the service writer told me that if the problems keep happening and it's not the battery then they will reimburse me for the battery.

    Three weeks later i was having the same problems. So i spoke with the Service Manager who told me they would reimburse me as well. This time they blamed the problem on the battery control mount that my old battery leaked battery acid on it and ruined a control mount. Now i still have the old battery which they did not even clean and i only kept it because there is no leak. I have taken it to my mechanic and he has tested it and it was good. I know that the battery is not covered under warranty, but obviously since this has happened after replacing all the stuff they said the old battery ruined that the problem is still happening. Just does not makes sense. They said they wont give me money, instead they will reimburse me by waving the deductible, However my car was still under the same deductible since the problems were not fixed the first time and not they are just being a dealership and taking advantage of people.

    So i pick up my car and 2 weeks later it was back at Jeep for the same problems. The car was there a week and they said they need to replace the wiring harness and the part wont be in for 3 weeks. The car is almost up of its extended warranty so i left it there for over a month. I went down to collect everything out of the car to find that my CD player completely broken wont eject CD's. They called me to get my car 28th of October saying my car is ready. I asked if they fixed the CD player and sure enough they forgot so it was there a week more to get a new CD player.

    I just got my car back on friday November 5, 2010 and i took it in on September 20, 2010. So as of having it back three days i have not noticed any problems with my gauges but my new radio they out in is still not responding all the time when i turn knobs. Also on the service paper it shows i brought it in with 69142 miles and after has 69192. However my odometer reads 69584. I have not driven 400 miles in 4 days and now i dont know what to say to say to them about this.

    I just would like to know if anyone is having these problems and if so what was the solution. I'm sorry for the long post with many different things being mentioned. I am not very happy with the service i have received and the fact that i'm still having problems. If you have any suggestions i would love to hear/read them. I'm open for all suggestions.

  • i just replaced the ecm with one from a junkyard and now the security wont let it keep running does any one know if i can bypass the security or if i need to have something done to the ecm
  • Well On my 91 cherokee my alarm kept giveing me problems mostly from alot of faulty switches and alamr sensors in doors. I disabled it by grounding out the alarm bypass wire. Most vehicles have them. Mine was purple and green I think. If this sounds like something you want to do I will see if I can find the right color for yours.


  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    Can anyone tell me what wire in the door boot is the one with the problem, windows dont work with engine running also interior dome lights stay on all the
    time unless you turn dimmer switch all the way off and the remote locks dont
    work. Help please, Brian
  • I have a 1999 GC with a battery problem. Just swapped out the battery, nothing draining off of the battery and a fresh alternator. I'll be driving and the battery indicator will start to drop after about an hour of driving. It got to the point once that the car died on me while I was on 95 North! This happened 3 months ago, had it towed to my dealership, had it jumped the next day, and all of the indications were it was back to normal. Now it looks like it may be heading back to that problem. Had an 1hour plus long drive yesterday and the battery indicator is just outside of the danger zone. It was holding steady on my drive in to work this morning after letting it sit last night. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem before and what the remedy was.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sensor under the battery have the shop check that
  • My jeep ran then it didnt run then ran. Then I did a tune up with plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, pick up coil, coil, crank sensor. It ran for a day and died. Has not started ever since. I checked for spark at coil, none. Fuel pump works. Cheked relays, they work. When I turn key on I dont hear the power dist. box click at all. asd relay works. It had a old security system with auto start. I removed it completly harness and everything related for that security system. All lights work. Everything works but no power to ignition system or power dist block. Someone said it could be the computer. Thats $600.00 new but under $50.00 at a junk yard. Does anybody know what I could try. I really need this car to work. Please help. Thanks. :sick:
  • Do the "turn the key backward three times" trick to determine the diagnostic code (for more detail, search through these forums and the ones on Another thing to try is to clean the contacts on the BCM with contact cleaner. The BCM on some of the later models (2000) used to be inside, under the dash near the glove box. Also, check the wiring near the boot on either door. Sometimes the wiring becomes frayed from opening/closing the doors. One more thing...a temp. fix to these stupid electrical problems is to disconnect the battery, leave disconnected for at least an hour, then reconnect. It tends to "reboot" the electrical system, similar to the reboot of a PC.

    Finally, try to find a mechanic locally with experience in working on the Jeeps. DO NOT TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A DEALERSHIP TO BE WORKED ON! They won't find the problem, and it will cost you $$$$.
  • Do you happen to have a part # for those harnesses. I have been having alot of similar issues with my 2006 JGCL. & has been the shop numerous times. but i suggested the harnesses be replace and they said that it would be helpful to know a part #.
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