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Comments
Sometimes the sensor is just dirty, sometimes it has failed. In any case, I think the tank is going to have to be removed. Which means that a couple of hoses will have to be pulled off.
Pulling these hoses off may not be real easy. The small hoses on a Cadillac are known to be difficult to remove, especially up by the firewall, which is where the surge tank is located.
If you can get the tank off, and flush it out well, this might clean off a sensor that is just dirty and not functioning. If I went to this much work, I would replace the sensor.
If so, the easy problem is the 'pellet' in your key may be dirty. Clean it with electric cleaner or some such thing and try it again. Or, if you have another key, try it.
Or, there is a true problem with the security sytem. The wiring from the key down the steering column is a very small wire, and this sometimes breaks.
Or the key cylinder is bad and needs to be replaced.
A workaround, if you can find someone that knows how to do this, is to find out which of the 16 or so resistance values your key pellet uses (measure it with a good multimeter), and buy a resister with this value and find the wires in the steer column, cut the wires, and wire in the resister.
Many aftermarket radio installers have learned to just push the stock radio back into the dash, leaving it connected, and then putting their unit into the hole. What a clutz approach.
My opinion - on late model autos, especially those with complicated electronics, I think adding an aftermarket radio, security system, or remote start is just asking for electrical problems. If not with installation, then later when the trashy electrical connects the installers make start to come appart.
At 60,000 miles, the plug and plug wires are supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, but they might something to replace. Use only the original Cadillac wires, and I would also say to use the AC plugs (or maybe they are Denso by this year) recommended for the car (platium). Don't go for any of the multi-contact stuff, just get a platium plug the owners manual recommends.
At 60,000 miles and 4-5 years, unless you have the service records for the car and it has already been done, the coolant system needs serviced. It's also supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, but this is one I definitely would have done. Have the old coolant flushed out throughly and the recommended amount of Dexcool replaced.
What does your oil usage percent indicate? You cannot be sure it was reset correctly at the last change. Consider having oil and filter changed, and reset the oil life indicator at that time. Just bring it up in the display area, and then hold down the 'reset' button for a few seconds. It will reset to 100%. You will then know the oil life indicator is correct.
Unless the car has been abused, mainly meaning having overheated, or used as a tow vehicle, the transmission fluid is probably ok. This fluid can easily go to its 100,000 mile recommended change milage. When you do have this serviced, DO NOT have a 'flush' done, where they hook up an external machine and force the fluid into/thru the transmission. Have someone that knows something about a Northstar do it. The pan must be dropped, there is no filter to replace, just a wire screen to be cleaned, but most important, there is a second fluid plug inside that must be pulled, then an additional, large amount of tranny fluid will come out, more than comes out when the pan is dropped. Many service people do not even know about this, and you are not getting the entire amount of fluid drained that can be drained. My 2005 also has a 'transmission fluid life' percent indication, and I assume this can also be reset by holding down the reset button.
Other than this, start saving your money, because something on this complicated auto is going to break and need servicing.
My old Deville the plugs and wires lasted exactly 100,000 miles. Once I got about 100,100 miles it started to studder on the highway, and what do you know? One of the plugs were cracked.
Now getting reliable information on what is wrong or what is going to go wrong with your Cadillac is good to get at the dealership. But actually getting it done there depends on how fat your wallet is. They wanted 600 bucks to change the plugs and wires so I went out and spent 120 on the proper plugs and wires and did it myself and it only took about 45 minutes. The same thing with my brakes. I ended up doing them myself and saving a fortune.
But there were other things that needed to be done here and there that I was not able to do that they were pretty reasonable with the price. So you never know.
But anyway, I am on my 2nd Deville and I love them. I will never drive anything else but a Deville. I got my 1st one, which was a 1998, when it was 2 years old with 44k miles on it and I got 120k out of it. I just babied the thing and kept up with the general mainenance of it and never had any real problems, until the end. And that was when it had 160k + miles on it.
Now my 2nd new used Deville is a 2002. I got it when it had 49k miles on it from a Cadi dealer. It to was bought new there and then traded in. I have only had it for 4 about months but it has been running smooth and looks real sharp so I am a happy guy.
Well anyway, good luck with your Deville. I hope I have been somewhat usefull. And as far as keys go I am pretty sure you dont have the little chip piece in your key so I think you can get your key made at pretty much anyplace that makes keys. But I am not entirely sure on that.
and I have been crusin around in style ever since. I am a happy man. And ye
either on the frame on the back of the rear seat or under
the rear window. It will be covered by a carpeted panel.
Not to mention the underhood fuse center or the one under
the dash. Check your owners manual.
One thing to keep a close eye on is the coolant level. If the coolant level is dropping then there is a leak that needs fixed. Failure to fix it can doom the engine. Otherwise, the engine should last indefinitly. The transmission should last too, but may need some control devices replaced. How long the car lasts will depend on how it was cared for by you and the previous owner. The first owner may have done some damage which is only now beginning to need repair.
Cadillacs have been know to overheat the wiring to the pump when the pump is failing. If you have to go into this again, make sure the wiring to the pump is checked also. If it is melted, etc, it will need repair.
Also, the filter might be clogged. It is on the frame, under the left passenger door area.
P0401- EGR Flow Insufficient detected
P1406- Unknown
We had the knock sensor replaced a bout 2 years ago so I don't look for that to be the prob..... unless that is a re-accuring thing with these cars....Plus now in climate control will not function on AUTO only ECON. .....anddddddddddd sometimes it just shuts off for a few minutes and comes back on(the heat or air).
So with all this what my next best move?? Rebecca....
I am guessing they just pulled the pan, which takes 'some' of the tranny fluid out, and put a new gasket on it and buckled it back up. And this didn't do anything to help your problem.
You've probably got a shift solonid problem. There are three of these. Two of them can be replaced rather easily. The transmission does have to be opened up, but they can be accessed from the bottomof the car. The third one is buried deep within the tranny, and the motor and tranny must be pulled to get to it. This one usually sets a 0741 error code.
You need to have the error codes pulled, and someone interpret them correctly. If it is a code for the 'A' or 'B' shift solonids, you are lucky. If a 741, it is going to cost a lot because of the labor to pull the tranny.
Unfortunately, not shifting into overdrive sounds more like the 'expensive' one.
Find the leak, fix it, recharge the system.
If so, there are 2 air passages in the bottom of the intake that clog with carbon and cause dirveability problems such as you are having.
These passages can be seen by looking straight down into the throttle body. Use a probe or screwdriver to clean these passages and your problems might go away.
Otherwise, yes, the idle control and/or throttle position control (some cars have both of these) can go bad and cause problems. I'm not sure these type problems would continue until 30/35mph. If these are the problem/s, I think replacement is rather simple, take off the old ones, put on new ones. BUT, getting them re-set so they work well is a real mess, best left to a mechanic who understands them, or has factory service manual to follow the procedures.
There is also MAP sensor could be bad or the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve that could be also clogged or bad.
Finding a mechanic with experience on this age Cadillac might be your best bet to narrow down exactly is your problem. Or, if you was to pursue it yourself, buy the factory service manual, not one of the after market ones.
http://answers.edmunds.com/question_95_cadillac_Deville_oil_bell_housing_valve_c- overs_where_552.aspx
It it possible that the fuel pump is on the right side and the turn depletes the gas.
Has anyone else experienced this issue.
I don't know if this is related - once in a blue moon the ignition will not work.
It sets a few minutes and then it will engage.
Anyone ever had this problem ????- The fuel pump issue should be a common one if my theory is correct. Help from anyone - Please
Ignition may be as simple as the resistance 'pellet' in the key is dirty. Clean it with electrical cleaner, or buy a new key. The dealer can use your VIN or a locksmith can use a multimeter to get the pellet's resistance to be used in a new key. Or, the ignition switch itself is getting worn and/or dirty inside. I'm not sure if you should squirt electrical cleaner inside the key cylinder or not. And, there are wires that run down the steering column which are part of the secutiy system. These wires are very small, and with age can break apart. This might be starting to fail, and the security system cannot 'read' the key. You need a good mechanic with experience in working on ignition and steering column, if the problem is something more than a dirty key.
When this happens, is the rear end low?
-SIGN CADILLAC GIRL :sick: :sick:
Mainly - I think the dash trim piece, a U shaped piece around both sides and bottom has to be removed. I've got the 8 torx screws out of the glove box, and it still holds at the bottom.
Is this dash piece a push on/pull off piece? If so, it must take a lot of pulling, because I've pulled some and it doesn't budge. Do I just need to pry it off or pull with great force?
The dash piece has to be pulled off. Actually put my dandelion digger in there aganist the clip and twisted to get it loose. Clips at tops, bottom, and across the bottom.