It may be that the turbo doesn't lose power quite so quickly (makes sense), so that's why the car feels faster. When I'm zipping up the Grapevine or in the mountains the car's not even breathing heavy as I blast past all the NA cars struggling.
I don't think the GLI is basically a Wolfsburg. I just bought a GLI last night and this thing is like no Jetta I've ever driven! Power in every gear, even 6th gear, nice sport seats, great handling, and the looks speak for themselves. The car is truly amazing.
I think I'm set on getting a Jetta 1.8T. I wont get the Monsoon radio, because I've heard that aftermarket audio installations can be quite complicated if not impossible when the Monsoon is in the vehicle. Will it be easy to change the stock cd player, and speakers? I ask this because I will be leasing the car, and I dont want the installers to have to drill holes in the doors, ect.. in order to install the speakers. If for some reason they were to drill some holes, especially to [non-permissible content removed] tweeters, will this cause me problems when returning the vehicle at lease-end? Someone told me if you're adding to the value of the car, like better audio for example, the dealership wont mind. Is this true?
So i took my car in yesterday for the knocking sound, and my 15k service, and to see if my rotors were warped. When I picked the car up, they said that the knocking sound was the result of a loose ABS sensor, or something like that and they ordered a new hub and rotor for that, so I will have to go back. They also had to order new pads and rotors because my brakes were slightly warped(luckily they got it under warranty). For my service, I had used synthetic oilsthe past few times but did not get a chance to pick up any so I told them to use their oil, but I think they used regualr oil. How bad is it to go from synthetic to regualr? Also, I checked my oil today and the dipstick reads very very low, because the oil is at the point on the dipstick that means you need to add oil. What gives? I called VW, they said if you want, bring it in, but the dealer is 30 minutes away and I am sick of trecking out there all the time. What could the reasoning be for needing oil the day after an oil change? The car is definately not leaking oil, but I have the 2.0 and I know it burns alot, but this is impossible. Last time I got a service, I used synthetic, and about 1000 miles after the service I checked the oil and it basically read empty so I added 1.5 qts, maybe had I checked the oil right after my 10k service, it would have read the same as today?
Hi all. I haven't posted here in quite some time, but when I did I was complaining about the doors in my 2001 Jetta rattling so horribly. To make a long story short I documented EVERYTHING - every phone call to VW of A and to my dealership etc, also every time the car went in to try and get the problem solved. (four times total...over a month in the shop) They could not fix my problem so they offered to buy the car back for full price or put me in a 2002 for the same price. I took the 2002. Unfortunately I fear this car will rattle as much as the last one. (especially after I have read so many others on here with the same problem) Anyway, I'm enjoying the 2002 - I upgraded to the leather interior and I love it. I think I will take some of your advice and get some of the silicone for the doors. As much as I love the Jetta, I don't plan on keeping it long. Overall, VW has really disappointed me. My bit of advice is to document, document, document if you are having problems. That is what saved me. When I pulled out my file with everything - date, time and nature of each phone call etc, the rep's jaw dropped.
My girlfriend is looking at a 1998 Jetta and I'm trying to help her but I don't know much about these cars since I don't drive one. I have an M3 and I know for example on some models year M3's there are certain things to look for like to whether it has a plastic or metal water impeller, etc. and was just wondering whether there were certain issues like this that you should look for on certain year Jettas.
I have had my 2002 VW Jetta for 3 weeks. It has 1084 miles on it and I tried to use the cruise control. I doesn't work?? Everytime I turn it on and press the set speed button and take my foot off the gas, it just decreases speed. What gives here? I cannot believe the cruise control doesn't work. Will this be a difficult and time consuming repair, or sometime quick and easy. Anyone had this problem before??
By the way, my Jetta is a Galactic Blue 1.8T 5-speed with leather and sport. She's a beauty! :-)
Can anyone let me know what kind of deal they got on their 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T for a lease? Here's what i've been offered, and I want to see if it's a good deal or not...
2002 GLS 1.8T 5speed, luxury package, monsoon stereo, and emissions - $1200 due on delivery, $295/mo 3 years / 15k miles/year. They also offered to make the last payment on my current lease to get me to act now.
i got a 2002 GLS 5 speed 12000/year for 3 years w/monsoon, sport lux, and leather for $236/mo w/1400 down ( i paid a little extra on the down paymment to cover the sport lux which I initially did't want but now like.) your deal sounds OK but I'd check in the leasing forum to find out what the current money factor is. the host, car_man can tell you what the exact numbers are.
My cous got a 2002 GLS 1.8T tiptronic, leather, monsoon, sport lux for 36 months, 12k miles per year and 0 down for $320 a month. This was a very good deal but he got it because I set him up with my salesmen who had recieved alot of business for me. I got my 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 auto, leather, lux for $316 a month, 39 months, 0 down, 12k miles per year...Who got the better deal...?
I have a GLS 2.0 auto, and believe it to be about 0-60 in 10.5-11 seconds, so the manual maybe about 10. VW says the car is slower but they always underestimate, like saying the 1.8T is 8.2 with manual, plsu I pay attention to my speedo and the 2.0 really has a pretty good 0-40 which makes up for the lack luster 45-60. The 2.0's weaker spot is above 75ish on the highway but I've noticed it doesn't do all that bad sometimes. Having a manual will definately help you out more, and as for top speed I've gotten my car to 105mph with room to go, but you need alot of room and I remember someone got their's to 110 and he felt the car could get to 120mph, but it's definately not electronically limited
Be VERY CAREFUL about making any type of alterations to a *leased* Car...Do nothing that cannot be made original again...The Monsoon Sound System is Great, and remember that you are dealing with a Double Din Head unit...AM/FM/CASS/CD...not easy to replace...
And you cannot assume that the Dealer will want your Jetta at the end of the Lease...They probably will, but that is not cut in stone... Market conditions, Model Changes, any number of things contribute to that decision...Better to invest the $$$ in your Home System, that is yours and does not belong to someone else...Like the leased Jetta...
I've never leased a car, but this sounds terrible to me: And you cannot assume that the Dealer will want your Jetta at the end of the Lease...
So anytime you lease a car, you may have to buy it out at the end if you don't want it? I didn't think that was how it worked! I thought you signed the lease, made the payments and at the end gave the car back with the only fees being wear and tear, and mileage. Am I wrong?
My sister is seriously considering on buying the 2002 Jetta 1.8T GLS. She likes the body style and the bright blue color it comes in. I went along for the test drive and I was pretty impressed. However, I'm a little concerned about long-term reliability. I heard Jettas, at least in the past, have had maintenance issues. Also, does the turbo engine pose any risk of breaking down over the next 10 years? She wants to hold on to a car for about a decade. Thanks in advance.
three possible closures to a Lease end... 1. Customer pays off residual & keeps the car. 2. Car is returned to Dealer, and Dealer pays off residual and sells car as used. 3. Dealer declines purchase, car is picked up by Lessor and sold at auction...
In the 1st scenario, miles, wear & tear, mods, etc. are meaningless because you are buying the car.
In the 2nd scenario, miles, wear & tear, mods, etc. will contribute to the Dealers decision as to whether to keep the car or not...
In the 3rd scenario, the Truck Driver evaluates the car after the Lessor noting any dings or burns or scratches that they find that may have occured after the Lessors inspection.
But for scenario 2 to work, are you saying that the dealer must want to take the car back from you? So they could screw you and in effect make you buy the car? That sounds brutal!!
You will find that long term reliability surveys (ie. Consumer Reports) show that the Jetta has lower than average reliability. However, it is hard to apply these studys to newer vehicles as there are different processes this year as opposed to 10 years ago.
I don't think you'll have a problem with the 1.8T. It has been voted one of the 10 best engines in the world. Most complaints seem to be with power windows and rattles.
Ive got a 2000 Jetta GL with the 2.0L, I need to change the plugs and today I pulled the plastic cover off the top, and man, they are really down in there. Is there a trick? Do you need to removed the intake manifold? Help!
You do not have to buy the car...Remember, the Dealership is basically disconnected in this transaction...
All German cars...VW/Audi, BMW, MBZ tend to be very attractive to the Dealer because of the fact that these cars tend to always residualize for much less than the *Actual Cash Value*.
Best case for the customer is to pay off the residual and then sell the car privately realizing almost the same profit that the Dealer would make. It is important to note here that a Private party sale forgoes the recon and Warranty Coverage of a CPO Car; so it will sell for less, but still the way to go...
i do fine with 12,000 year on my lease. luckily, i live close to where i work (4 miles.) my commute is tiny compared to many other LA-ers. i live in a convenient area so i don't have to drive too far out of my way to do a lot of different things.
I noticed about a week ago that when my driver door is open, that sound letting you know the door is open is no longer there but it would come on about 3-4 minutes later. Then a few nights ago I noticed the interior lights won't come on when the driver door is open but they will when the other doors are open. And tonight I noticed the climate control area was not lit up then I hit a bump and they came on and they went out again so I hit the side of the dash and they came on. Is this the beginning of an electrical nightmare? Those of you who frequent the board know I have alot of crap going on with my car...
On the driver's side, there should be a little knob that sticks out when you open the door...kind of like the button on a fridge that gets pushed in when you close the door to turn the lights out. I know when it gets really cold out, that gets stuck on my Pro. Maybe yours needs to be lubricated or is getting stuck somehow. Try pushing on it to see if it's working or not.
But maybe your electrical is going! I'd get it checked out. No way you should have to hit the dash to make the lights come on.
Thanks for your help. The engine seems impressively efficient (in terms of gas mileage and power). I just have this negative connotation about turbo engines in general. For example, look at all the problems you hear about the mid-/late- '90s Eclipses and Talons. I hope the engine holds up and that she doesn't run into other problems, like blackjetta18t1's electrical issues and faulty power windows that you mentioned.
Don't worry about it. Mod all you want and resell the car on your own before you return it. Odds are good with a Jetta it's going to have a higher resale value than your buyout.
I picked up my new Jetta yesterday and all is great....except the drink holder. When you push to release the holder it does not expand. I have to push the top of the holder for it to work. It's no biggie, but on a brand new car you expect everything to work. Oh well. They had to get my car from a nearby dealer, so when I saw it for the first time I noticed it had pin stripes. They looked aweful. I ripped them off in a matter of seconds.
Well, according to DriverGear and the parts salesperson, you can only use them on 4-cylinders, but he couldn't explain why. He stated that the exhausts are exactly the same on both 4 and 6 cylinders.
There was a guy who posted a picture of his car today on VW Vortex... he has a 1.8T and he put the GLI exhaust on it.
I suspect the people at your VW dealership don't know what they're talking about. I bet you could go back to the shop and the mechanics would say "oh yeah, it's fine."
the magazine does say the exhaust tips are only for the four cylinder. Protege-I can't quite find any button that could activate the stuff. I did notice that this problem does affect my alarm. I will arm the alarm, and open the driver door from the inside and the alarm will not go off but if I open another door, it will.
I just returned from a week trip to Chicago, great city. I picked up my Jetta today at the dealership, after 5 weeks. I went home, then had to go back out (it was dark by then). I turned on the lights, and the climate control panel did not light up! I am so MAD! I just got the car back, and it has to go back to the shop AGAIN for something else! UGH! I love the car, but this is getting to be a pain in the rear. Also, the dealer did not fix my molding right, next to the dash. It is still sticking out. I am going to throw a fit when I go in there tomorrow.
If they do not get these rattles right, I will be selling this car back to VWoA and they will be giving me another 2002 very soon.
I am about to go for my 10,000 mile service very soon I presently have 9700. Must I have exactly 10,000 miles on it before bringing it in? Does my warranty cover oil changes and other service until 15,000? Also, is it necessary to use synthetic oil? Or is this something for car enthusiasts? I have absolutely had no problems with this car since i picked it up in may of 2001. Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated.
As long as you change the oil regularly, you do not need synthetic. In addition, you do not need to change it every 3,000 miles. Do a change every 5,000 as the manual indicates, and you will be fine.
I have had my Jetta for 2 days now and love it. Though I have heard the infamous door rattle. It is not that bad, but I will bring it up during my first service. Has anyone in here gotten their oil changed earlier than the recommended 5k service? Is there break-in oil in out Jetta's?
My cup holder seems to be working on and off.
This car really feels very solid and the fit and finish is great.
I am not so sure that it is that big of an issue. Mine will only make noise if I hit something major where both front tires do not hit it at the same time. I drive on Minnesota roads, which are not in great shape to begin with. I am not sure if others are experiencing the same thing as I am, or something worse. If they are experiencing the same thing I am, they are being rather picky.
You think it's picky to complain about new cars rattling over road irregularities? You have VERY low expectations of cars. I just drove my 11 year old Nissan yesterday (a car I beat the hell out of) and it doesn't rattle EVER. It may not be as much fun as my Jetta but it's a far better built car.
My doors only rattle when I go over a pretty substantial bump. I agree though, it should make no noise at all. But, at this point......its livable. I know this was discussed in this forum, but what is the fix? Some Gummi solution?
Don't get all defensive. I said if others are experiencing the same thing I am, then they are picky. Maybe you are experiencing something more than I am. All I can say is that in 4 months, I have had my doors make noise only about 5-6 times, driving on crappy roads. So if yours is rattling more than that, you may have a legitimate complaint.
Comments
I think I'm set on getting a Jetta 1.8T. I wont get the Monsoon radio, because I've heard that aftermarket audio installations can be quite complicated if not impossible when the Monsoon is in the vehicle. Will it be easy to change the stock cd player, and speakers? I ask this because I will be leasing the car, and I dont want the installers to have to drill holes in the doors, ect.. in order to install the speakers. If for some reason they were to drill some holes, especially to [non-permissible content removed] tweeters, will this cause me problems when returning the vehicle at lease-end? Someone told me if you're adding to the value of the car, like better audio for example, the dealership wont mind. Is this true?
Thanks
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=12
Good luck!
I have had my 2002 VW Jetta for 3 weeks. It has 1084 miles on it and I tried to use the cruise control. I doesn't work?? Everytime I turn it on and press the set speed button and take my foot off the gas, it just decreases speed. What gives here? I cannot believe the cruise control doesn't work. Will this be a difficult and time consuming repair, or sometime quick and easy. Anyone had this problem before??
By the way, my Jetta is a Galactic Blue 1.8T 5-speed with leather and sport. She's a beauty! :-)
2002 GLS 1.8T 5speed, luxury package, monsoon stereo, and emissions - $1200 due on delivery, $295/mo 3 years / 15k miles/year. They also offered to make the last payment on my current lease to get me to act now.
Suggestions/ideas? Thanks!
I don't think I could survive on that little mileage. Well, maybe if I only drove the car to and from work, and never drove it on weekends.
how do you guys manage?
System is Great, and remember that you are dealing with a Double Din Head unit...AM/FM/CASS/CD...not easy to replace...
And you cannot assume that the Dealer will want
your Jetta at the end of the Lease...They probably will, but that is not cut in stone...
Market conditions, Model Changes, any number of
things contribute to that decision...Better to
invest the $$$ in your Home System, that is yours
and does not belong to someone else...Like the leased Jetta...
And you cannot assume that the Dealer will want
your Jetta at the end of the Lease...
So anytime you lease a car, you may have to buy it out at the end if you don't want it? I didn't think that was how it worked! I thought you signed the lease, made the payments and at the end gave the car back with the only fees being wear and tear, and mileage. Am I wrong?
1. Customer pays off residual & keeps the car.
2. Car is returned to Dealer, and Dealer pays
off residual and sells car as used.
3. Dealer declines purchase, car is picked up by
Lessor and sold at auction...
In the 1st scenario, miles, wear & tear, mods, etc. are meaningless because you are buying the car.
In the 2nd scenario, miles, wear & tear, mods, etc. will contribute to the Dealers decision as
to whether to keep the car or not...
In the 3rd scenario, the Truck Driver evaluates
the car after the Lessor noting any dings or burns
or scratches that they find that may have occured after the Lessors inspection.
I don't think you'll have a problem with the 1.8T. It has been voted one of the 10 best engines in the world. Most complaints seem to be with power windows and rattles.
Dealership is basically disconnected in this
transaction...
All German cars...VW/Audi, BMW, MBZ tend to be
very attractive to the Dealer because of the fact that these cars tend to always residualize for
much less than the *Actual Cash Value*.
Best case for the customer is to pay off the residual and then sell the car privately realizing
almost the same profit that the Dealer would make.
It is important to note here that a Private party
sale forgoes the recon and Warranty Coverage of
a CPO Car; so it will sell for less, but still
the way to go...
But maybe your electrical is going! I'd get it checked out. No way you should have to hit the dash to make the lights come on.
I just tap it quickly and it pops right out. I think maybe she's trying to push it too slowly.
I'm not saying you're doing it incorrectly, just mentioning a related anecdote. :^)
I suspect the people at your VW dealership don't know what they're talking about. I bet you could go back to the shop and the mechanics would say "oh yeah, it's fine."
If they do not get these rattles right, I will be selling this car back to VWoA and they will be giving me another 2002 very soon.
Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated.
My cup holder seems to be working on and off.
This car really feels very solid and the fit and finish is great.