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They are : Better Rotors, Bridgestone Turanza tires (not Firestone Affinity's) the worst tire for even a tri-cycle, better lubed rear stabilizer bar bushings, (some that don't squeak like a 40 yr old car), and the biggie, a HVAC control head that doesn't need replacement every dag gone summer, two if your lucky. I think they have a fix for the intake gasket leaks. I read on a link someone provide about "gm media online" that GM will use on all 2004 and up 60 degree V6 engines a graphite gasket to better withstand the temperatures and metal expansion/contraction rates. That's it for me. For now on I'll look at a new GM car design two years after being on the road instead of one. I was guinea this time, Hope GM learned from its warranty repair reports. Those should be good indicators for what went wrong and how many times, and how often.
Talk late Good Folks.
Love this board.
Jeremy
2. Malibu brakes...has anyone tried a different brand of rotors/pads other than what is supplied by Chevy?? I know many of the brands sold by the major auto parts stores carry lifetime warranties. We only have about 7K miles on our '03, and so far its flawless, but I want to be ready if/when anything acts up on it.
3. dindak...agreed on your Intrigue. One of our daughters has one..a 99, I think. She has about 65K miles on it and has had NO troubles at all..it even has the original tires on it-still with good tread (Firestone, by the way). I think GM may regret dropping Olds..I've never heard anyone complain about them, other than the diesel engine they tried a few years ago.
Thats it..my 2 cents for this week.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Motor Trend made the first drive of Malibu and they are very positive about Malibu. At freeway speeds they say steering is presize and well weighted. Actually it should be because originally platform was designed for Germany where good steering and handling is a must.
RE the electric steering: It's amazing how GM will pick and choose (not necessarily wisely) which "new" technology to include in their cars and then skimp on other things.
And did someone refer to Buick as "Lexus-like"? That is scary. I rented a Buick Park Avenue last month and if that is what a Lexus feels like, Toyota is ripping off all Lexus owners.
And we shall see....
Apparently it's a very quiet and smooth ride.
Regardless, it is hardly a certification of innate goodness.
E-mail me at j2000jeremy@cs.com
Jeremy
Door Panel:
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
-Remove the front door trim panel insert by pushing the lower front corner rearward in order to disengage the hidden plastic tab. Push the rear corner forward in order to disengage the hidden plastic tab. Pull inward in order to disengage the top clip.
- Remove the door handle bezel crew from the handle bezel.
- Remove the power door lock switch from the door handle bezel by prying the power door lock switch from the retainers. Detach the electrical connector from the power door lock switch. If equipped, remove the manual window crank handle. If equipped remove the power window switch by prying out the retainers with a flat bladed tool. Remove the door handle plug with a flat bladed tool. Remove the two door handle trim screws. Remove any remaining door panel retaining screws.
- Disengage the door panel retaining clips using tool J24595 or equivalent. (It doesn't talk about what type of tool that is. It says though, that the door panel retaining clips can also be removed by carefully and gently pulling of the door panel to disengage them from the door.)
- Remove the door panel from the door.
Speakers:
- Remove the four front door speaker screws then pull the speaker partially away from the door to access the connector.
- Detach the speaker electrical connector and remove the speaker from the vehicle.
To Install speaker:
- Attach the speaker electrical connector.
- Place the speaker into the recess making sure it's aligned with the locating pin. Install the four speaker screws and tighten the screws so they are fully driven, seated, but not stripped.
To Install the door trim panel:
- Ensure that the retaining clips are in place on the door panel.
- Position the door panel on the door and gently push the panel into place to engage the retaining clips.
- Install all the door panel retaining screws.
- The balance of the installation is the revers of removal (do everything from here on out, backwards.)
I really hoped this helped. The thing that sucks is you can't see the photos they have in the book. Well, good luck!
Jeremy
THIS discussion will become the hot forum once folks take delivery of their new '04s and have a chance to see if they are screwed together properly, but that could be November or later.
I'd love to continue with my tales of woe re: my '98 Malibu LS, but I'm more interested in optimism about the '04 at the moment.
Cheerio.
Maxx LS 22225
LT 24725
loaded LT $27075
24,000 battery replaced
32,000 head control unit replaced and all window realigned.
40,000 front brake pads replaced.
60,000 head gaskest replaced.
80,000 alternator replaced.
100,000 front brake pads replaced.
120,000 another alternator replaced.
125,000 suspension system going bad....
The quality of this car is not up to 21st cent standard.
Good luck! other Malibu owners
I forgot to mention it has brand new BF Goodrich tires on her; none of that Affinity crap going on.
Thanks for your input!
Jeremy
For reference, my '98 LS has roughly the same mileage (but with leather and sunroof), and I'd expect to see $5500 wholesale, $6500-$7000 retail for it.
Glad the Affinitys are gone; mine are too (have Goodyear Eagle GTIIs). As an aside, I'm glad the '04s don't have the Affinitys, but was hoping for Goodies or Michelins; we get Bridgestones. Oh well.
Good luck on the trade.
Somehow you have avoided the rotors and intake gasket manifold. At 125k miles anything can go. I would say you've gotten good life out of this car. Some annoying things but nothing too bad.
Also considering how much trouble you have had with you current Bu, why take a chance on another? BTW, the reliabilty on the 2001 are not much better then the 1997. A lot of the same problems still exists: thin rotors, suspension problems, intake manifold. There just isn't as much data on the 200 as the 1997. I will remind you of the famous saying, "fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me". Don't let the JD Powers report fool you. 90 days of ownership tells you nothing about the overall reliablilty of a car.
In case you got a bit confused, the mileage on my car is near 25K, not the mileage on your '97. FYI: a neighbor sold his '97 (not an LS, nor an S-title; few options) last Jan., 90K miles and got $1900. A friend sold his '98 (not an LS nor S-title; lots of options) in March, 85K miles and got $3200.
On the alternator thing to JohnClineii - The lifetime warranty is only on the WORK preformed. Not the alternator itself. The warranty on the alternator is 3 years. (i.e. say your alternator falls off the engine because it wasn't properly secured after replacement, that would be covered for life. If the alternator fails, the warranty is only good for 3 years from the time of installation.
The car: Well, so much for that silver Malibu. It sold just like every other car I've looked at. And as far as a new one - no thanks. Not until I get out of college and can REALLY afford it. I can't stay with my Bu because I have a feeling my front bearings are going out. My neighbor had the same problem with his 99 and paid $900 to get them replaced. He said a warning sign of the worn bearings is one single pop sound when you turn the wheel to either side...well guess what I'm hearing. I cannot afford to spend another grand (if you include the intake manifold) on getting this car fixed, just to have more problems down the road...literally!
On other boards, I hear people being "a little peeved" because they have to shell out a measly $120 on a non-warranty repair on something like a Passat or TL...give me a break. Try $1400 in repairs over a 6 month period. And it's funny, too, because those people who complain about $150 on their car, own like 3 fairly new, mid 30's to mid 40's, priced cars. SUCK IT UP AND GIVE ME A BREAK! You can OBVIOUSLY afford it. I'm not talking about anyone here, because if we could afford cars like that, we would be driving TrailBlazers or newly ordered Malibu's.
ANYWAY, back to the subject at hand: Tonight, I found a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am SE with the 3.4 liter V6 with power everything and sweet stock alloys. I has just under 25K on her! All for under $10K. I spoke to the dealer about my trade. He never asked if my Bu has been salvaged, so I never told. He said they would pay it off and add nothing to the sticker price of the Grand Am. I guess the salvage thing will just come out when (if) I sign the papers. The way I see it is it's the car the dealership will soon own. It's their responsibility to ask before they make any verbal offer. Now, if they refuse to fully pay her off after learning that it has been salvaged, I'll just walk out. Oh well, because I'm not about to have 2.5K rolled over into my new car payment. HECK NO! Their loss. And since it's the end of the month, I'm sure that they'll be beging to get cars off their lot.
Can you tell I'm a little cranky tonight?!? I'm just really frustrated with the whole car-buying process.
Any more help or advice would be appreciated. One last note: If I can help it, I will not be keeping this car. I'm really freaked about the potentially bad bearings. I love her, but the burden has got to go. The only thing that will stop me now is the bank denying our loan, which I don't think will be happening. Wish me luck on any vehicle I get!
Jeremy