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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu
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Comments
Thanks
www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/
still doesnt mention the piston problem
for the Malibu (although it does for Buick
Century 2001 with the 3.1L engine).
Is it possible to tell from the VIN of the car
whether it is from this bad piston lot?
In other words, GM changed something with the 3.1l engine in summer 1999, and the power went up from 150-155 hp to 170 hp. It also stopped building the 4-cylinder modification.
One thing I learned is I must speak Greek when I ask questions about my car. I asked both the dealer and the Chevy "Customer Assistance" operator why Chevy would authorize what I estimate to be at least a 4-figure repair to be done as warranty work when there is nothing wrong. My questions were quickly met with silence and a skillful change of the subject.
Both the dealer and "Customer Assistance" sing the virtues of having an engine with new parts. I wondered aloud why a one year old car with 9000 miles on it should need to have its engine rebuilt. Again I was met with silence.
The bottom line is that in a week or so, my one year old car will be out of service for 3 days so its engine can be rebuilt. Granted, Chevy is footing the bill for this one, but it has been made clear to me that the warranty will not be extended. In turn, it is also clear to me that I will no longer own this vehicle to have to worry about the warranty expiring. BEWARE!
theiceman (aka another Ottawa Senators fan)
Generally, the GM engines are very reliable. But if you have concerns, it is better to show the car to a good mechanic. For peace of mind, if not for other reason. Preferably at a good GM dealership, because they have more experience with the specific engine.
Personally, my wife and I bought an aftermarket extended warranty - mostly for certainty and peace of mind.
I've been away from the discussions for quite a while now and am suprised to read all of the hub-bub about rotors and pistons. I've been plaqued by faulty rotors on my 2000 since I took delivery of the car, but I'm at somewhat at a disadvantage since I'm a military member stationed overseas in Germany. There's an Opel dealer here (authorized to work on American cars) that simply can't believe I've had to return the car 3 times in 12.8K miles for rotor replacement. He cites the usual stuff: excessive braking, operator error, etc. I picked the car up just yesterday for it's 3rd set of rotors and the service advisor finally came clean with me..."the parts are sh**", he said in his best English voice. Apparantly, GM did release 2 new part numbers, 1 for new rotors and 1 for new pads to supercede the faulty ones; however, I'm not sure if that tackled the problem. If anyone needs some "rotor" testimony, please let me know. As for the ticking, my 3.1 makes the same noise, but subsides after warm up. I'd like to take my car back to Opel for inspection, but fear my symptom will be dismissed for normal injector operation or some sort of untraceable anomoly. Where can I find out more about this problem and it's links to the Malibu?
I had 2001 Malibu LS until yesterday. I have traded it in for 01'Honda Accord LX. I realized soon I will have brakes and engine problems. I don't want to visit to dealer every other week and most of the times they don't find anything and keep the car for 1-2 days as they are very busy but they are co-operative. I was getting ticking noise only when its cold last for few seconds as it doesn't get that much cold over here and no noise when temperature is warm. Light noise from the brakes and squeak from the back on left turn but goes away when I take the car to dealer but that doesn't bother me much. But the wiered one was when I put the car on Drive (D) I hear a buzzing sound as of bee or mosquito until I accerelate. Bottom line is, it just have 4200 miles and I had the car for 6 months. I liked the car and I only wish it didn't had the problems but one is sure I am not going to buy US makes (not to offend anybody) unless their reliability ratings start to come out good. I am glad I am done and get a peace of mind....I only wish I had listen to my friends before. By the way I just suffered 3K loss on trade in compared to what I paid for my car which was ($16400 after rebates).
Good luck to you all!
Do you have a hard copy of this TSB? I contacted ALLDATA and they pushed me into Chevy's Customer Service Department. My 2000 (with 12,8K) is having this problem and walking in to my German Opel dealer with a copy of the TSB would be very helpful.
I am meeting with a Chevrolet Rep Monday in Vancouver, WA and I am hoping they will wise up and buy the car back from me before I file under the lemon law on May 2nd. I would love to have some emails with other specific rotor stories as I know this is becoming VERY common with the Malibu. Funny what you said Fennda about the parts being "sh..." My dealership told me the same thing! I appreciate any and all responses before Tuesday at 10:30 AM when I meet with the Rep. Thanks everyone!
kingpatrick@hotmail.com
I still don't believe that GM would authorize a dealer to rip an engine out of a car, tear it apart, replace the innards, and put it back together all because it's making a ticking sound that is "harmless". The service writer, service manager, and Chevy customer service tell me they are doing this for customer satisfaction. They say they have no knowledge of the piston slapping being a danger to the life of the engine, but they are doing it to make me happy. No way.
We'll see how it goes after that, have 23 months left on factory warranty.
I purchased my 2001 Malibu in February. I have experienced no problems yet. I had my brother inspect the car yesterday. He is a mechanic with 20 years of experience on Chevys. He says everything looks good so far.
He has heard of problems with intake manifold gaskets and the rotors.
He has replaced rotors with the GM supplied parts, because he was working at a GM dealer.
But I have heard that the best bet is to replace the rotors with after market parts from other suppliers like Bendix. They are less expensive and last much longer. I have replaced rotors on my last two cars. I do the work myself because the job is simple and it takes less time than driving to the dealer and waiting around for them to get to it.
On the subject of being hard on brakes, the dealer mechanics sometimes are making accurate observations. Every day I see people abusing their automobiles. While the complaints about inferior products may be legitimate, give some consideration to the possibility that the problem may be the way the vehicle is operated.
gearhead4
It listed the vehicles involved on the bulletin (the Buick Century and 1 or 2 other cars were listed in addition to the Malibu). It states the piston slapping noise is very similar in sound to that of a valve tap. However, if proven on engine diagnostics that it is the pistons, the problem is believed to be caused by "excessive piston bore". The repair involves replacing the pistons and the associated hardware.
While I am not mechanically inclined, I wish that someone at Dayton Chevrolet from the service writer to the service manager, and the Chevy Customer Service rep would have had the integrity to tell me what exactly was wrong with my car. After all, I paid $16000 for it, didn't I? I'm gonna call my neighborhood mechanic tomorrow to find out exactly how damaging (if at all) this problem is to the structural integrity of the engine.
Anyone with any knowledge, I would appreciate a response. And to all of you who are blissfully ignorant as to your "valve tap" noise, my complaints about this SAME noise to the dealer this past fall was mis-diagnosed as valve tap.
I totally agree they should be more forth coming about the problem because as someone said the wouldn't tear an engine down for just a noise. Good luck with yours.
As well, can anybody tell me why I'm only getting around 14 to 15 mpg in the city? On the highway, I got great mileage. Could this be related to my rotor/brake problem? Please email me @ 2253255368@airmessage.net with any info.
I am an owner of a 1998 bought the car New in early 1998, I am getting ready to drive the car over 1,000 miles to upstate New York for the summer (I live in Little Rock)and I need to know what to get changed/replaced/checked etc... on the car , ANYTHING no matter the cost I want all problems fixed on the car and ones that may lie in the future to just get fixed now. The car has 41,000 on it. the first noticeable issue occurs when I brake on the highway @ 60-70 mph the car will shake WHAT is that? I might want to get new brakes for this long Trek,I have been looking at all the posts and I see that the rotors are a big problem is that what that is ? Also what is this "Ticking" noise people have been talking about ? I hear a ticking when I am in reverse turning the wheel , what might that be, I have just gotten used to it but I want to know if that is a problem and I want to get it fixed and if not I just want tot know what is the noise. If the braking problem is not the rotors how do I tell that they need replacing ? OK thanks everyone anyone that can help it would be GREATLY Appreciated !!!
Happy Malibu Owner,
Paul
I have had Nothing done to the car in that area (brakes) I bet @ 41,000 miles the car might need new brakes , and i bet i have the roter problem I think i will get new everything (Brakes, Rotors) and if you can think of anything that would need checking/replacing on a 1998 please advise cuz I really dont wanna deal with major problems so far away from home once again thanks .
Paul
Replacing brakes costs about $400 at dealer, but much less with aftermarket parts at independent shops. Some aftermarket rotors and pads (Raybestos?) have better reputation than the genuine GM, and are backed by warranty.
2. How good are your tires?
I had to replace the original Affinity at about 37k miles. Bought a set of Firehawk SH-30. About $350 at local Firestone, including installation, alignment, and road hazard warranty.
Great tires, especially on wet pavement / rain. Head and shoulders better than the original ones.
3. What engine do you have? 4 cylinder or V-6?
The 3.1l V-6 engine is prone to coolant leak through the intake manifold gasket. If you are adding the coolant, I'd suggest to pressure-check the coolant system. The test is cheap - about $25-30. The repair is not cheap, though.
4. Did your car have the 30k mile service? The state of the brakes suggests that possibly not.
Mechanic checks, cleans, and/or replaces air filter, gas filter, fuel injectors, serpentine belt, hoses, transmission liquid, brakes, etc. May cost up to $300-$500, depending on what needs to be replaced. This is expensive, but useful. Does pay in better reliability, safety, lower gas consumption...
5. Simple thing: check the brake / signal lights. The Malibu brake lights have two bulbs, and continue to work after one of them burned out. Better to check that the both bulbs work.
We are afraid to take the car for any trips over
10 miles . . . which is about when the shaking starts. There is
black brake dust ALL over the wheel hubs!
We have a 2001 Malibu LS - been back for service 3 times. The front brakes seem to be sticking to
the point that they smoke and the whole front of the car shakes - (as the rotors warp?). Milage is only 1,200 miles!
<<
One more unsuccessful repair and it's officialy
a lemon (at least in some states).
See:
http://cartalk.cars.com/Got-A-Car/Lemon/
Thanks,
Paul
I really like my 98 LS.....bought it last June. Only problem was the rotors..which were replaced under warranty. I just bought a 98 Corolla LE for my wife to drive. Got tired of reading the bad things about the american made cars and bit the bullet and paid more to get the Toyota. It's a peppy car with 120 hp. Has a 1.8 liter engine. Their reputation is great..hope that holds true for me.
Sorry to here about the "above" problems with 2001 Malibus. It's a shame when you pay that much for a new car..and have a problem with brakes occur. It takes the real joy out of owning a new car. It is suppose to be a pleasurable experience. These manufacturers should have the brakes figured out by now..after all...they've been on cars since their inception.
I picked up the Malibu today after it had the pistons re-done. Dealer had car for 4+ days. Would have cost $1750 if not on warranty. Runs like a champion so far, we'll see what the future holds.
Has anyone tried aftermarket 'cross drilled' brake rotors with good results?
Now that we have moved to our new platform, we no longer have the requirement to stop and restart discussions after the numbers of posts exceed a certain limit. To keep from confusing our newer members down the road, we are going through the discussion list bit by bit and dropping the "part" numbers associated with some of our extended discussions.
Since this will be the permanent home for discussion of the Malibu, I have removed the "III" from the title of this discussion and altered the name of the archived version to distinguish it from this one.
Please continue....
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
For the last several years, my husband and I have complained to the dealer about a coolant leak and was told there was no problem. However, we were filling it every month or so as the red light came on. Last month, we needed to fill it every week, so I decided to take it to the dealership. The morning I was dropping it off, the check engine light came on. I lose power on acceleration sometimes as well, I was told that it was the intake manifold, so $1000 later, I was told it was fixed. As I left the parking lot of the dealership, the check engine light came on again and I turned the car around and brought it back, I waited for about an hour, at which point I was told that one of the temperature sensors was reading incorrectly, wire replaced, problem fixed. So I go home that night and my husband checks the car out... the alarm doesn't work, and the coolant reservoir isn't filled (after $1000 dollars, the least they could do was fill it). I called the dealer and went back in two days. Surprise, surprise, on the way to the dealership, the check engine light goes on again. This time, I am told that it's the EVAP sensor and that it could mean a lot of things (gas tank not closed properly (WHATEVER!), hoses kinked...) so they say everything's fixed, a hose was apparently pinched. This morning while running some errands, the blooming light goes on again! Obviously it's back to the dealership I go, but it's getting OLD!!! I've heard a lot of complaints by Cavalier, Lamina and Fire bird owners about the check engine light. Unfortunately, we still owe money on this hunk of junk. We really enjoy the car with the exception of the fact that it's in the shop more than we can drive it. Any one else sharing the same experiences?
The first two years the car was serviced at dealer, oil change every 3 months. The coolant level decreased, but the dealer mechanic just added it.
The difference between full tank, to the notch, and the "add coolant" light on the dash, is one quart. Only once lost so much coolant between oil changes. According to manual, it is OK to add it every 3 months. My impression is it is a bit too often, but who I am to argue with manual. I had no reason to complain, and did not care.
After warranty expired, I switched to local Firestone with oil change etc, and to adding the coolant myself. Did not like how fast it decreased: had to add a quart every 3 months exactly. Then, in cold winter day, the signal appear one month after the last adding the coolant...
Replaced the tank cap to exclude evaporation. After this the coolant did hold better, but still decreased.
Last week, told the Firestone mechanic about the problem and asked to replace coolant and flush and check the cooling system. Turned to be, they can check the system without flushing and replacing the antifreeze. Just pressure check. A simple and cheap work, costs something between $25 and $30, do not remember exactly.
Turned to be, there is a small leak from the intake manifold gasket. Fortunately, it leaks outside of engine, not inside it.
Called my dealer, to check if GM had a recall or hidden warranty concerning the problem. The answer was negative.
The next week I am planning to fix the problem by replacing the gasket.
I have a third-party extended warranty from an Internet company named Warranty Gold. Will look how it works. Have an impression, that my mechanic does not like the third party warranties, though. He told me to call the company myself and to check if the gasket is covered (according to the policy, it looks as it is covered). Probably, calling the company adjuster means too much trouble to mechanics. At least, when I called them, the line was always busy and the comapny did not answer my voice mail.
My suggestions to owners of Malibu and other cars with the same engine: ask for pressure-check of the coolant system. Do it before the warranty is going to expire, and/or when buying the car, if buying it used. You will waste $30 for peace of mind if there is no problem, but can save a lot of time and/or money if it leaks.
Tao
- new 99 Malibu, and put 83,021 miles,
- new Grand Am, year unknown, put 15888 miles,
- new 99 Cavalier, now 36555 miles,
- new 00 Hyndai Elantra, now 41,632 miles, and
- just bought used 95 Toyota Corolla, with 126,917 miles.
You also have a 97 Toyota Camry, with 82,556 miles on odometer (either bought used or owned it for years) and currently you are planning to buy a Honda Civic. Of these new cars you love only Elantra.
Well, probably you have somewhat unusual tastes. Are driving a lot. And have a very big garage, ha?
Or, possibly, just like spamming.
The car must be fixed today. Currently it is in the my local Firestone shop - for the third day.
Why so long? I have an extended warranty. When buying, I believed this is for peace of mind. How dumb I was...
It turned to be there are warranty companies, who are selling the warranties, have consumer service, etc. Though, the decision on repair is farmed out to the third party - the "independent administrator". I have a policy from Warranty Gold, Austin, TX, with Independent Warranty Management Corporation, Arvada, CO as administrator.
The repair was approved immediately, from the very first attempt. But it took two days to get to the warranty administrator. No busy mechanic would waiting on hold for hours, and the administrator did not call back even on second day.
I had to call the customer service of the warranty company, and they called the shop and connected the manager to their administrator. Even for customer service, with direct connection, it took 15 minutes on hold!
By the way, the same administrator is servicing several warranty companies. Eight companies, if I remember right - they list them when you call their 1-800 number.
Of course mechanics do not like the extended warranties. How can a busy professional be happy to wait on hold for hours, or waiting for days for call-back? But it is bad for car owners too.
Fortunately, I had the problem while at home, and I have a spare car - without A/C, about 90F outside temperature, but better than nothing. But what if you need a repair while far away?
I will not drop the warranty - it is too late and expensive - but will not buy them in future.