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blk97aurora, Henri - I think it'll save money in the long run to switch if the rotors are going to fail often. Probably depends on the price of the calipers.
garnes - Good suggestion not to let Goober do the oil change. When installing the air dam today I noticed a dried yellow sealer around the drain plug. It wasn't there before and it never leaked. I had a lube shop do the oil change last week and I'm hoping they didn't strip the plug. I swear 90% of the mechanics/technicians in L.A. couldn't flip a burger without breaking it.
Motor Trend, Sept. 1994, 0-to-60 in 8.2 sec, 1/4-mile in 16.3 sec at 87.1 mph
Car and Driver 1994 Annual, 0-to-60 in 7.4 sec, 1/4-mile in 15.7 sec at 89 mph
Road & Track, July 1994, 0-to-60 in 8.6 sec, 1/4-mile in 16.5 sec at 86.0 mph
Big differences in 0-to-60 for what seemingly should have been nearly identical cars.
I am inclined to buy the car if I can get him down to 10.5-11k, but I want advice on the following:
1. With the warranty, should I push having it taken to a mechanic?
2. When I asked the salesman to provide a service history for the car, he said that all he could do is give a Carfax report; I told him I had done that already, but that he could also print out a history of the dealer service by plugging in the VIN# on his computer. He went away for a moment and came back and said that he could do it, but could only provide "warranty" service information. Isn't this inaccurate?
Is the salesman clueless or a dishonest thug? It is clear that the car was serviced at another dealer; I saw some receipts in the car. The seller's service department was supposedly closed so the printout couldn't be provided. I'm leaning toward thinking he just wanted to close the deal, but wasn't really trying to hide anything. I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Darren - my opinion - if the car was about to die or have a major problem, and that's why it's on the lot (being dumped), I'd think you would notice the problem within 30 days/1000 miles.
I bought my 98 this spring with only 13,000 miles on it, and the in-service date was 12/21/98, so it still had loads of warranty left. I was still nervous and figured the crazy low miles were too good to be true. I had the worst buyers (what the hell did I just do) for about a week. I was sure something was going to pop up. But it all checked out, carfax, tire wear, mechanic check and all, and it's been a great car. I did bring it in to turn the rotors and fix a loose piece of interior plastic - and just this week the water pump went out after 7,000 of my own miles, but that's been it. The warranty record is good. I think that should tell you if the car has had a major problem history and is a lemon or semi lemon. Mine had a fog light replaced. That's it. I was so crazy, I read the shadow of the original dealer name (sticker removed) in Canada. I tracked them down and called. (this was all after I bought it, but I had to calm myself) And they had record of the car being in exactly 3 months after it was sold for an oil change - with only 1,200 miles on it! So yeah, it was hardly driven and it checked out.
Again, in my opinion, the Aurora has got to be one of the best looking and smooth rides inside and out, and has respectable power too from a world class engine. All that for 11K +/- for a well maintained 96 sounds great. I hope yours is a good one.
Mine is a black autobahn with the bose and sunroof and I've worn my arms off rubbing it down with Meguires mirror glaze No. 7 and their liquid wax so it's like a mirror. I love the darn thing. There is very little I'd be tempted to trade for it - even imports costing over twice as much (new).
The third was in my V8 TBird -- but was not as bad a ticket as the first two. Basically -- you either drive at a good speed or you speed and learn... After those tickets I slowed down. I admit, I still speed -- but not excessively so. By speed I mean I'll do 64 on the inerstate where its 55 or 74 when 65.... etc.
----
Today I drove a 2001 3.5L Aurora -- I reallllly liked it... for my complete "review" lol see here:
Here's what I posted at acura-tl.com (I'm stuck between an Aurora and a 99 3.2TL
Drove an '01 Aurora
I was very impressed!!!!!
It was an '01 Gold Aurora, 3.5L V6.
Engine ran very quietly & very smoothly.
Interior felt very tight, well-constructed and rattle free.
Stock (not optional BOSE) 6-speaker sound system blew the TL's
BOSE outta the water... this thing had amazing bass & excellent highs.
Love the real wood -- but we won't get into that.
Rode very well -- firm -- but comfortable. Cornered well (didn't get much of a chance to really flog it)
Had very good midrange torque -- doing 45-55 -- step on it and it went pulled very strong up to 80 (was nearing residential areas so I couldn't do much else)
One annoyance was the fan control -- it was a dial that lit up approximately 10 little LED's as u turned it up. That was fine, however when u actually cranked it up or down -- it seemed to pause too long before it finally did what the dial was telling it to do.
Off the line it felt very good as well -- I have to 1/2 mash the gas in my V8 TBird in order to start quick -- this hardly.
It's avg. MPG over 40k that the computer had stored was 23.9 -- the owner claimed he had gotten up to 36 on the highway and generally gets around 22 around town. That's a lot better than what I've heard some of the TL's.
It doesn't have HID's
I'm going to have to drive a TL again -- because I was very impressed with this car.
*Low Beam Headlights (4 lights system right?)
*High Beam Headlights
*Driving Lights
???
Thanks
I think the dealer's right in that he can only look up what's been done on the car under warranty (that's what my dealer told me when I was negotiating to buy my '98). In my case, all of the warranty issues with my car were trim/etc. related - nothing with engine or tranny.
Other "chronic" Aurora problems include the AC compressor, and the parking assist "mirror points up at the sky" problem... seems to have some tranny problems at higher mileage, too. Might think about a third-party extended warranty (WarrantyByNet, 1SourceAutoWarranty), since, if something with that engine or drivetrain goes wrong, it can be big bucks, easy 2-3x the cost of a decent warranty...
Hope this helps, and good luck,
--Robert
>and I've worn my arms off rubbing it down with
>Meguires mirror glaze No. 7 and their liquid wax so
>it's like a mirror. I love the darn thing. There is very
>little I'd be tempted to trade for it - even imports
>costing over twice as much (new).
Garnes: you and I have the same car, and the same passion for it. I just spent from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m. (except for a break for dinner) detailing my Aurora (I used Zaino from <http://www.zainobros.com> - did the whole thing, Dawn to remove wax (twice :-), Z-18 clay bar, Z-7 car wash, Z-1 polish lock, and Z-5 polish for swirls and scratches), and the car looks sensational - an incredible, mirror-like finish. I'll be putting multiple coats of it on, and then take some more pictures to share. Suffice it to say, this product works as well as they say it does - if you have the time, it will give you the best finish I've ever seen on a car - it really is amazing!
I also agree with you, there's nothing else I'd rather be driving (my wife just got a Grand Prix GTP and, while it's nice, it's no Aurora). I never want to sell this car (I do believe it will be a classic as the last great Oldsmobile), and hope that I can garage it in another 2-3 years and keep it as a "Sunday/weekend driver" (guess we better get a 3-car garage at our next house :-)
--Robert
I found so far a K&N Filter... on www.alero.org they have some OLV? concept one with a 3.5L engine tahts the same one -- but with K&N and a Borla exhaust -- i couldn't find that exhaust on borlas website but the two increased the horspower to 245. That along with 200less lbs than the V8 should make quite a difference -- anyhow, anyone konw of any avaialble?
Does anyone know what percentage of the Auroras have the autobahn package?
Another question: Does anybody have the price list of the options carried on the 98 Aurora, when it was new?
Henri - Now that you got your Aurora back, you have to take it out and start blowing away all those minivans that took advantage of you when you had a loaner. Redeem yourself Henri!!! Redeem yourself!!!
Hammen - yeah, I had mine clay-sticked too when I first got it to remove a bunch of faint white splatter all over the car. Best money I spent on the car. I think it set a good foundation for glazing it and waxing it. My understand and experience with glazes is that it has microscopic grit that produces heat from the friction of rubbing. The clear coat is not removed but softened just for a fraction of a second and is "smoothed" over the scratches. You have to rub like hell to get this result though. Like icing on a cake being reworked to remove a sneak taste. Thanks for the product info. I'll check it out. I've never had swirl problems. I just use the meguires NO. 7 once in awhile, but usually just wax it. I worked all the scratches out when I got it. I was out there all the time. The neighbors must think I'm nuts. I'll bet yours think the same.
I swear the Bose is so good that I don't want to get to wherever I'm going because the tunes are so good. Cruising around on a nice night with the sunroof open and the tunes jammin' and the F-16 dash all lit up (as described by my buddy)is really nice. Got to put in some Brian Setzer on the bose. The big band/rock thing pumping through it is great.
Base: 35960
shipping: 665
autobahn: 395
disk changer: 460
heated seats: 295
sunroof: 995
bose: 871
chrome wheels: 800
This is mostly everything. Note that the intro 95 base including shipping was 32000. I took these from an Edmunds spring price book.
Battery - I am becoming a little concerned agout my battery. With a build date of December 94, I am beginning to wonder if I should attempt another winter eith the battery. The DIC says everything is okay, but I am mindful of the posting about the readout being from the alternator and not the battery. OPINIONS????
P.S. - I dusted my first MINIVAN today.
May have wasted some more money,anybody out there ever try ALLDATA.For $25.00 bucks you can get all service bullitens tech info etc.for 1 year.I signed up for it.It seems really good,tons of info.Just 1 problem the site is SLOWER than HELL!!Keep getting a page that says "having trouble with server"Maybe it will be better tommorow.I'll do anything to stay away from those GOOBERS down at the local dealership.I'm out.
Henri --- Glad you got your baby back. Just take it out on the highway and really enjoy the smooth sailing that the classic provides. My 95 was built in May and I am going to order me a battery because I don't think I want to be caught this winter in Chicago with a 6 year old battery.
iahmatthew -- The part that controls the air doors was cracked on my 95 and that caused the doors not to open for the air. I will get back to you with the part number.
As far as I know, the plug wires on my '97 are original. I bought it in September 1999 at 37,000 miles. The wires are marked to identify the cylinders (2, 4, 6, 8) -- I haven't examined the rear bank. Also imprinted on the gray surface of each wire is a white rectangle positioned where the wires are secured by notches attached to each fuel injector; looks to me like this was an assembly line job aid. Wires 6 and 8 also have a round purple dot next to the white rectangle; I have no idea what this may signify.
By "recommended battery" do you mean AC/Delco brand? Do any other manufacturers (marketers) sell a battery of the right size and with the venting to fit our Auroras?
I now have applied 2 coats of the Z-5 swirl/scratch polish (with the Z-6 gloss enhancer in between), and the car positively glows. I want to apply another coat of that, and then a couple of the Z-2 show car polish, before taking some pictures and posting the link here...
Absolutely amazing stuff... and no, I have no vested interest in the company, other than as a very satisfied consumer...
--Robert
(who still has his wife's white Grand Prix GTP to do :-)
Also have to confess I was in a hurry to get the car waxed today so I used Nu Finish on her. It looks and feels very nice right now. And it's supposed to last a full year. We'll see. Anyone tried it?
One other thing I like about the Zaino is that it applies very easily, and it's not difficult to remove, meaning that I have little to no overwax leftover on the car (a personal pet peeve, again, especially bad on a black car)...
--Robert
Thanks.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
hammen2 - I did some reading on these products last night. Seems Zaino takes a few steps to complete, but it's used for show car quality, and, if you're right, lasts longer than Nu Finish. Nu Finish had okay reviews. Some were great reviews: used for 10 years and loved it. Some mentioned orange peel, yellowing, average appearance compared to better waxes. The Polymer base vs. Carnauba is supposed to last longer. It's easy enough to apply.
Also dropped karen@edmunds.com a suggestion for a new thread in the owners club: I liked the 'You Know You're an Aurora Fanatic When...' series, but I can't keep track of the entrys here.
Since it was mentioned a few posts up, I thought I'd ask -- is this a indicative of a really serious problem, or should I just glue it?
JC
Yeah...There IS a common problem with the rear window seal...GM flaked when it came to this minor problem. Keep in mind that the seal you SEE is not really a seal, but a filler for the gap that the real seal leaves...So that plastic that wraps all the way around your car down the back window and around the front windshield is merely a shroud. It can be glued, whacked, nailed, stapled or taped in any way you see fit.
My car was in the shop for 6 weeks because of this problem...Hey! I got to drive a new caddy while they worked on it! Anyhow...It has since come off in places, so I just used a very strong epoxy and it fixed it.
The real seal is underneath the cheap plastic seal. Keep that in mind...
Ewww...
They do not have to remove the glass. If they had to remove the glass, it would not be $200.00! Do not take this repair lightly. It is VERY difficult and if you do not have a decent craftsman look at it, then it will look crappy and blow off again. Trust me...Remember...I'm a record holder here! If it is bubbling in the center (rear) or peeling away at the base of the windshield, just use a simple black resin to fix it yourself. If it is much worse and your car is under the FACTORY warranty, then take it to the dealer. Be sure you get a nice rental, cuz it's gunna be awhile!
VM
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
Should I just insist that the dealer fix this? Call the Olds Assistance Center (has anyone ever had luck in doing this)? Take it to another dealer?
If anyone's got any advice for me, I'd sure appreciate it...
Thanks,
--Robert
vwbus1979 - I haven't had time yet to get a lot of opinions on the infamous plastic deflector. I agree with cwiley1 that it's necessary for added air to the radiator, but I can't figure why it's not actually scooping the air in. GM puts these on other cars as well, but they've since learned to make them flexible so they won't get knocked off - my neighbors with the Saturn thought theirs was a 'curb finder'. Really. Just a guess: the flat surface may cause an air bulge in front of it that could separate airflow above and below the bulge without sending up too much dirt and water, maybe - could also allow hot air to escape from behind it too. And yeah, I wince every time I leave the driveway now :P