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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
However, be sure to replace the windshield! When your airbags deploy, the windshield is designed to take the impact of your face hitting the airbag. If the windshield is defective, you defeat the design employed in the inflation and you might end up inside the steering wheel.
B
QUESTION: Does anyone make an aux fuel tank for our M/M of truck? The best I've found here in Dallas is a custom made 30 gallon, gravity flow bed mounted cell 650, labor 250, parts 100...$1000 total.
At 18.25 mpg you are doing pretty good. I am lucky to hit that figure with my XC.
Toyota/EPA mileage estimates were 22/25. (I am well aware that these are estimates and conditions will vary same. I primarily drive in city conditions, no undue idling periods, no fast starts/stops...do let engine idle for one minute (when cold) before driving slowly off. I live in Rock Island, Illinois and of course, our weather varies from hot to cold via seasons etc.
I have not had any "ck engine light" come on nor do I have any hot/dragging breaks (ck via careful touching), vehicle seems to roll freely and otherwise performs very well.
My concern is a "decreasing fuel mileage condition". The following are MPG experienced in CITY conditions.
8/02 = 21.9
9/02 = 22, 22.1, 20.4
10/02= 23.7, 21.7, 19.3
11/02= 19.3, 20.4
12/02= 18.4, 17.7, 19.7, 18.8
1/03 = 18.3, 17.9, 16.9
I would appreciate hearing from other Regular or Xtracab, 2.4 liter, 4 cyl, auto trans. Tacoma owners...as to what experiences they may be having with their MPG (and what part of country/weather obtained in).
Would also like to know if any owners out there may have experienced any fuel mileage problems that were ultimately corrected via dealership etc. Pls. explain.
Thank You!
Ed M.
I have a 2000 4Runner 5sp and I'm having the same problem. Does anyone know if the manual transmission on the tacoma is the same as on the 4Runner?
Anyways, I posted a detailed description of the problem with my transmission on the 4Runner section of edmunds. The discussion is "'00 Toyota 4Runner 5 speed problem" (or something like that.)
I'd be interested to know if you you got the problem with your truck fixed. There were a few suggestions from guys on the 4Runner board that you might be interested in.
If you have time, check it out and let me know what you think.
Also, your vehicle isn't fully broken in at 4,500 mile. There should be some improvement with additional miles.
Check you tire pressure too. Lower temps = less pressure = lower MPG.
Point of interest: I have a '96 extended-cab V6, 5-spd that consistently gets 22-25 MPG.
-james
I think the truck does everything good except for the fuel and the complaint treatment.
there is a EFI 20a fuse in your engine compartment that you can reset, pull out for a minute. but it is not a permanent fix. The computer adjusts to your driving style (an option I did not know or want). I wish some one can find that line in the code and delete the damn thing. MPG will go back down again in days.
Oh, try to keep alll your service docs too if you can, always ask them to check for MPG. that's if you bring your truck in service, i have no faith in most factory mechs.
For the individual who was looking for the "Rattles in Dash Area" TSB....it is Service Bulletin NV00602, Bulletin Sequence #633 dated 5/2002. It's about 5 pages long and provides (Noise Abatement) guidance to service folks on a variety of things/locations that can be causing dash noise.
Should I buy new or used?
A new '03 truck is about $4000 more than a used '00 truck.
Are there any benefits to a new truck? Any advice would be helpful.
A '00 model will probably be close to the end of the factory bumper to bumper warranty, so if something does come up not having to do with the powertrain, it will come out of your pocket. But the $4000 you saved may cover that eventually if it happens.
Some people would never consider owning something they didn't get new, while others like the cost savings of not "paying" for the depreciation of the first couple of years of ownership. Depending on where you live, if you're financing, financing rates may make up some of that difference in price as well.
So it really depends on you, your wants, needs and budget.
Ken
Newer problem. When starting up on cold mornings (below 40) there is a not so good knocking/rattle sound coming from the engine for about 5-10 seconds before it goes away. Oil level is fine, engine runs fine, but this sound is not good and has me worried. The colder it is, the worse the knock is.
Any ideas?
Steve
'99 xtra cab 4x4 2.7 4 cyl 41,000 miles
Don't know if this would have anything to do with what is going on with your Taco or not. I still haven't bothered to call anyone about getting mine started - maybe next weekend. How long can I let it sit before I would have to start it to avoid maintenance issues?
By the way, it has now gone over 100,000 miles.
About your problem. One time I started my truck up to move it in the driveway, I only let it run for about 15 seconds to move it a bit and then cut it off. Later it would not start for anything, cranked and cranked. Later it did start and a bunch of blue smoke came out and then it was fine. I think by cutting it off soon after starting it cold, I confused the computer and got the fuel injection all out of whack. So now when I start it for a short move, I at least let it run for a minute or two to let things settle. Had the same problem with the wife's Corolla a few years ago also.
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
- start at the edmunds homepage
- go to Car Discussions
- select Toyota
- select 4Runner
There are about 30 different 4Runner related discussions. Go to the one titled "00 Toyota 4Runner 5 speed problem..." There are 8 posts in this discussion.
Also, on the advice of one of the hosts, I posted my question in the general discussion titled "Toyota 4Runner" (see post # 4345). There are a number of responses to my question there.
If you have trouble finding this stuff, let me know. I've printed a hard copy of all the "transmission problem" related messages I could find. I have a dealer nearby who is interested in seeing them all. I plan to fax it all to him tomorrow. If you have a fax, I would be able to fax you a copy too.
By the way, my mileage was 17-21 MPG depending on city vs highway. Now, it's 13-17 MPG. Toyota also says that the alcohol content in gas during the winter could decrease mileage. That much?
Troy
He couldn't find it; just said at the 1 year service they 'tightened everything.' Not a good answer. If they don't know what it is, then they wouldn't know if they got it.
Anyone know about this 'bolt' and where it is??
Another thing that isn't mentioned is the interval for repacking front wheel bearings on a 2wd. I figure maybe 30,000, but it's just a guess. Is maintenance necessary, or just when you do brakes?
Thanks,
Kirbyt
I was told that replacing the trans gear oil with Redline MT90 would really help. I did it, but the shifting is only marginally improved. I have to belive the notching is caused by a bad or damaged syncronizer.
I went and drove one of the 2003 models yesterday. It was very smooth shifting in all gears and at all speeds. Are the tranmissions the same model? If they are, then notching between 1st and 2nd is not normal.
Would love to hear of anyone who tore their tranny down and got a good look at the syncro. Was it damaged? Thanks.
I had the same problem. My local mechanic did two things: fuel injector and throttle body cleaning. The cost was about $175. After that, no sticky gas pedal. It was probably the throttle body cleaning.
Troy
I recently took changed the brake rotors on my 4WD and in the process re-packed the wheelbearings. I have 140,000 miles on the 94 PU. The wheelbearings were packed in very heavy wheel grease and were fine. I cleaned them and re-packed them anyway. The service manager at the dealer said he never repacks them and rarely has anyone bring a truck in for bad bearings.
At the very least in your 2WD, you can access them and inspect them to determine for yourself.
B
Dealer said it looks like a rail car must've thrown sand up on the truck body. Looks to me like some clown sprayed both wheelwells with sand. Toyota said they will paint it for me.
Dealer is even going to arrange for me to have a car while it is in the body shop. Has anyone else seen or heard of anything like this?
B
1. New front rotors for brakes
2. New PCV valve
3. New distibutor rotor
4. New Spark Plugs
5. New Fuel Filter
6. New rear brake drums, shoes, springs and wheel cylinders
7. Four new tires 235/75/15
8. balanced tires
9. has alignment done
10. replaced both Oxygen Sensors before and after Catalyctic Converter
11. new Catalytic Converter installed when truck was purchased in 4/2002
12. New air filter
13. Fuel Injection/Throttle body cleaning
The great Toyota dealershipS in my area say that they can't do anything because it's not throwing an error code. They said wait until something breaks or becomes more pronounced, otherwise it could take up to 10 hrs of diagnostics at $70/hr. Another mechanic says it's the PCM main computer (PCM/ECM?). A friend is telling me to replace the fuel pressure regulator. Articles on the net say a Mass airflow sensor. I can't afford to shotgun anymore.
I would think that gas mileage could be better and the idle could be a little smoother? Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks. Troy.
The dealership where it is now wants to shot gun the problem with no guarantee the problem will go away. They say since there is no error code that it is MY call! They'll keep guessing and changing parts at my expense and it may or may not fix the problem. This is the dealership that I purchased the vehicle from. They want to change the fuel filter next, I'm supposed to call them back this morning and give them the okay. At this point I want to send it down the road since no one seems to know how to fix these unless a computer points the way! I can't take any chances passing anyone and have to feather the gas. If I put the pedal to the floor it cuts out and starts herky jerken my transmission and drive train all over the place. The second I let off the gas its okay except for the on coming car in my lane heading for me. Yikes! What to do?
-james
Now that I've graduated and working, I'm thinking about getting a new tacoma 4x4 limited TRD. From all the postings here, I'm starting to worry. Maybe it wouldn't be so bad to just suck it up and keep mine.
One question I have about all these problems is the quality of the work. I've done all the work on my truck, because I don't trust anyone else to do it. I'm also a firm believer in regular maintenance and quality oil and gas. I use Delo 400 in my 4 banger and Chevron products exclusively. Do most people not do the proper maintenance, or just have worthless people doing it?
The one thing I've liked the most about my truck is the dependability. I know it's not going to leave me anywhere, so I was going to go with Toyota again. These postings are scaring me.
Does anyone know the percentage of trucks that are having these problems, or are they just isolated cases for the most part. Any opinions would be appreciated.
Yes, all trucks have problems. Yes, some Tacomas have problems. Yes, there are idiots who take those problems and blow them out of proportions.
There are currently no significant problems with the current gen of Tacomas. I4 has been around for more than 10 years, V6 has been around for 8, they are still running. THere were problems in first 2 years, but nothing ever since. Yes, some people will try to tell you that "Toyota engines are sludging up". Yes, but it's 3.0L from Camry/Sienna. There are occurences of the 3.4L V6 sludging up, but in almost 2 years I've been around the boards here and TTORA, I've heard of just one.
There are some occasional problems with transmissions. A guy from TX chapter of TTORA (it's a national offroad club for Tacoma owners, www.tacomaterritory.com) had to go to court b/c Toyota refused to replace his transmission under warranty. He won.
The main concern these days is with customer service and dealers. Yes, Toyota does not make trucks as good as it used to, but I'll say that they are still heck of a lot better than what the competition puts out.
Look around the board and see what problems people come up with. You'll see "My fender flare gasket is coming off" a lot....boo hoo. Dealers can fix it, and it won't leave you stranded on the road.
My experience: I bought a 2002 V6 5spd 4x4 18 months ago. I put on 20k miles the first year, right now I'm coming up on 25k. Done some offroading, truck's been lifted slightly. So far I've had no mechanical problems whatsoever. Yes, the 1st to 2nd gear shift is notchy, and yes, leafpacks squeak (which is probably the result of me putting an AAL in there), but I've learned to live with it. I drive like a maniac, and still get at least 17mpg in the city and usually 18mpg mixed city/hwy.
I have almost 60K miles on my truck and the ONLY problems I've had are the master switch in driver's door (for power windows and locks) going out. Actually, the only thing that went wrong with the unit was the switch for the passenger window, but the whole unit had to be replaced ($180.00...). The only other problem is the sometimes squeaky clutch which doesn't affect driveability at all.
Anything complex and mechanical is going to have problems, especially these newer vehicles which have gotton overly complex, IMHO. In fact, that's why I keep my 5 year old truck with 60K miles, because I'm turned off by all the un-necessary complexity and doo-dads of the new ones (which some Libety owners think is a plus, BTW). I prefer a tried and proven design.
Do some reliability research. The Toyota comes out on top. Look at the competition - every year or two they offer different engines. Why can't they get it right the first time? I drive a lot of different vehicles (all "domestics") at work. In comparison, my Toyota's a class act.
These sites, especially the "problems" threads, are full of anectodal tales. Do some research and look at the big picture. Toyota is hard to beat.
I keep hoping for the vehicle to really fail me sometime and give me a reason to take the big hit I would take if I sold it. But it doesn't. It is still depreciating faster than I can pay it off, but that might have something to do with the 104,000 miles I have on it...
And yes, your truck depreciated so much because of 104k miles on it.
I scheduled another appointment with another local dealership for this coming Monday. It will be interesting to see if they can find the problem. This dealership is willing to let me take the technician for a test drive while he hooks up an analyzer under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Both of these shops are authorized Toyota dealerships.