Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

shadyowl · November 2003

I'm negotiating to buy a '99 Tacoma Xtra Cab 4WD with a 2.7L motor. One thing that raised a red flag is the Exhaust Manifold had to be replaced. The truck has 85,000 miles.

Anyone know why this may have happened, if there is an underlying reason I should worry about.

Also is there anyone who has had a similar problem with this make/model/year

Thanks

killer1632 · November 2003

I was in stop-n-go traffic and my truck just died. I have 96,000 miles on it. I have recently had the fuel injectors cleaned & the plugs changed. I noticed the truck running a little shaky while idleing and then a few miutes later it died. The truck started back up and hasn't failed again. Anyone have a clue if this is some sort of tell-tell for something bigger down the road?

twood2 · November 2003

Shadyowl,
Read mine above "Bad Gas Mileage 95 Tacoma, Please help". May be something similar as I might be going on my 4th cat conv in under two years. Not one garage or Toyota shop can figure it out because it doesn't throw any ODBII codes. I am diagnosing it myself. I saw a site about timing and how it can ruin gas mileage and your fuel delivery/exhaust system so I am having a local shop check the timing today;
http://www.car-sound.com/05converter.htm

I'll let you know the results of the timimg.

twood2

sc0rpi0 · November 2003

Did you clean throttle body while you were doing everything else? It's probably not the reason, but it may help.

voltix · November 2003

Hi,

MY 1999 Tacoma Pre-Runner V6 is having problems shifting gears. The engin sounds fine, but it sounds like its working too hard for how fast its going. The engine will sound like 5 grand when its only like at 3.

Getting on the free way is pretty tricky now. Going from 0 to 60 either takes forever or the enngine sounds like its going up hill. Once its in gear and I have speed its all good. Can some tell me what they think it could be. Serious or not Im gonna get it checked out.

Thanks

tsmith16 · November 2003

The problem sounds similar to my truck and others where when stopping there is a thud in the rear like it was bumped. I think this is called "axle wrap" and is supposedly normal.

satcom82 · November 2003

I was looking at getting a Grill Guard, Roll Bar and a LOUVERED FLO-THRU TAILGATE. The problem I am running into that they don't carry these items for a 2003 Tacoma. I was wandering if anyone knew where I can go to get these items.

more info on my truck 2003 tacoma Xtracab v6 TRD

majcommo · November 2003

I think I've finally resolved the stuttering problem on my 1997 Tacoma, with the help of some postings here, and no help from my local Toyota service shop. My Tacoma started stuttering very interminently about 15K miles ago at hi way speeds and recently began cutting and surging at street speeds and accelerations too. It was awful to drive. It always starts great and idles fine. I changed the plugs, wires, pvc, airfilter; no change. So off I went to the dealership. They said the computer didn't show anything wrong. I resolved to my Haynes manual, and the internet. The symptoms pointed to many things, but the Throttle Position Sensor met all the symptoms. I found this link: http://ttora-ne.com/RI/TPS.htm it explains how to test it. Simply put, the TPS is just a potentiometer that measures the position of the throttle valve. When I put an ohmeter from the E2 to the VTA and rotated the sensor; somewhere in the middle, the needle jumped all over. OK, now I knew the TPS was bad. I remembered my high school electronics class and potentiometers; when they get scratchy, rotate them a hundred times to clean the contacts. I did. Reinstalled the TPS, and my problem is gone. I will eventually replace the TPS, but now I can wait till the snow is gone. I believe the same effect to clean the TPS could be achieved by repeatedly pumping the accelerator without the ignition on, thus cleaning the contacts. Let us know if it works, and I'll let you know if mine lasts till spring.

killer1632 · December 2003

When you change your oil have the shop hit the drive shaft with a shot of grease. This will prevent the truck from feeling like somebody just bumped you in traffic. Do it everytime...

killer1632 · December 2003

www.Performanceproducts.com

clawsonflats · December 2003

purchased truck new mar 01. 9900 miles notices power steering fluid leak and noise with pump. Dealer replaced power steering rack. 72000 miles it leaks again. Dealer now says $800 for a new p/s rack and it is not under warranty.

Has anyone else had this problem. The truck is less than 3 years old. Very disappointed will probably sell, take loss and get another brand. Any help or suggestions? Clawsonflats

dustyk · December 2003

Yep! I know two people that have had to replace racks in their Tacomas, one twice but with more miles.

The one in our Avalon is starting to leak, too. I think you will find that some of the Toyota racks are made by Saginaw Gear (GM).

Good luck,
Dusty

glenn43 · December 2003

My power door locks, sometimes, do not unlock when I disarm my security system. Re-arming the system and then dis-arming it again seems to correct the problem. I was wondering if anyone else with this factory system is experiencing this same problem.Thanks.

tsmith16 · December 2003

There is a TSB for this problem. My door locks do the same thing but I just live with it.

smith01 · December 2003

Would like to hear if the Tacoma owner who was on the way to the dealer to have the motor noise checked out got the problem resolved (Msg #881) and #852). Had the same problem with my '96 Tacoma
when it hit 50K miles. My 2002's noise (rapping)started at 22K. I added 1/2 quart of oil to reach the 5.7 qt. level. No relief.

bigfrog · December 2003

if you have a 6 cylinder i rember hearing something about #1 rod bearing bring to big from factory most likley would have been a problem at 2000 miles but you never know

jon2001 · December 2003

I have written a couple of posts in the past about rapping from my 2001 Tacoma when the engine was cold. The dealer determined that it was a wrist pin and we made an appointment for the work to be done, under warranty. I took the truck in and they pulled the engine, tore it down and determined that the problem was the wrist pin in #4 cyl. I ended up with a new piston, rings, connecting rod, and crankshaft bearings (maybe just as a precaution?). The noise is gone and things seem back to normal. The only charge to me was .57 for a new taillight!! I checked everything external very carefully and they seem to have put everything back together properly. Time will tell....
The #4 cylinder gets the least cooling and problems tend to develop there first. I wonder what caused this.
Anyway, just to let everyone know Toyota honored its warranty with me, no questions, no hassle.

Jon Aborn

smith01 · December 2003

Jon2001

Thanks for the update: Hope that fix keeps you going past the 200k you were shooting for.

coni1 · December 2003

I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.

sc0rpi0 · December 2003

Your warranty will cover it up to 60K miles. You can always buy warranty later. I've had my truck for 2 years and 31K miles (bought new), and in that time, I was at dealers 3 times:
1. To get my "break-in" free alignment.
2. Fix a rattle in a door when I closed it, a loose bolt in the window glass mechanism.
3. Replace front rotor that warped.
Everything was covered under standard warranty.

You don't need ext. warranty. If you feel your truck has been giving you problems when you have 50K on it, then sure, go ahead. As of right now, you definitely dont need it.

mtngal · January 2004

I always end up buying the extended warranty simply because we put so many miles on a vehicle. I took it in for a couple of problems, one they "couldn't duplicate" (and that did disappear before I got around to taking it in again) and one they repaired (replaced radiator). Was it worth it? Not really, but it did give me coverage (and peace of mind) for about 2 1/2 years. My 3 year and 3 month old vehicle has over 140,000 miles on it and has not had any more problems.

rollingalong · January 2004

My new 2004 double cab, 4 cyl. Tacoma, has problems with the gear shift. If I park facing down a slope, it is possible to jar the gear shift between park and reverse and the truck will roll forward. My dealer is telling me this is normal for this model for all years 2001 through 2004. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? I think it is dangerous and should be taken care of by Toyota.

uaskd4it · January 2004

I was waxing my white 2003 Tacoma a couple of weeks ago and looked underneath the door to wipe down the bottom and discovered grey primer coat showing through the white color coat under both doors. I took it to the dealer who called the "official Toyota rep" and set up an appointment to meet there at the dealer. On the big day the "suits" showed up and my truck was put up on a hoist to view. They agreed it wasn't all covered by the white color coat. We then went to the lot and looked at other white Tacoma's, and lo and behold, they all had primer showing through the color coat under the doors. I was summarily sent on my way with the information "that's the way we make them now, sorry". Do any other Tacoma owners have this "feature" on a 2003 Tacoma ?

sc0rpi0 · January 2004

just because the suits agreed, doesn't mean it's actually primer. Those people have business (read: bend customers over) training, what do they know?

All Tacos come with lower portion of the body textured. It's still painted, but it has textured feel to it. It's not primer, it is the way they do it to avoid paint chipping, or something. Maybe that's what you saw?

uaskd4it · January 2004

Sorry, I've been unclear. The bottom of the actual door itself has color coat voids along the stamped ridges. Like a machine sprayed across the bottom instead of spraying straight up from underneath. In the misc trades that I have worked in where painting and lacquering were done, we called them "holidays". (obviously a slang term)They were mostly attributed to apprentices or rookies who didn't want to get on their knees to get far enough underneath a low surface with the gun to cover. I know the undercoat that you're talking about under the rails of the body.

sc0rpi0 · January 2004

Call Toyota, complain, ask to speak with the divisional rep. Dealers won't do jack for you about this problem, since "They all come this way".

uaskd4it · January 2004

Thanks, I did just that. They were VERY careful about how they handled the call and kept trying to set me up as someone issuing a dealer complaint. I told them that I just wanted an official confirmation that Toyota is now selling trucks with color coat starvation in hidden area's as complete, finished, new trucks. I also mentioned that I'm in touch with web-based news groups that would be interested in the answer to that question as well. If what the dealer told me is true, I'm done with their products. They are going to "get back to me" and I'll post the answer when I get it.

sc0rpi0 · January 2004

check with TTORA guys (www.tacomaterritory.com). They may know more info on how to fight Toyota and dealers, I know we had some people who have done successful court cases against Toyota for warranty issues.

svgair01 · February 2004

Gidday....this problem is driving me nuts! Could really use some advice.
I have a 98 Tacoma 2.4L, 2WD 72K miles. What is happening is at light accelerator settings or when releasing the accelerator the engine stalls for just an instant and then catches itself. It does not do this consistently and happens more often when driving in the rain. It's like a miss-fire or loss of fuel to a few cylinders.

I have:
Replaced the plugs
Replaced the plugs leads and wires
Replaced the fuel filter
Had a fuel injector cleaning done

My mechanic says I need the air induction system cleaned but I'm skeptical...I think it's a bad injector, distributor or leak in the air induction system.

Anybody out there had this problem? If so, please respond as this problem is getting very expensive and aggrivating.

Thanks, svgair01

ibudic1 · February 2004

My dad had same engine, same problem, only the truck was an '88. Changing the distributor cap and the rotator inside solved the problem. It seems that when it gets wet moisture gets in the distributor and messes up the spark.

ebechste · February 2004

I have a 2000 Tacoma Pre-Runner that I bought used. I have had the fuel needle down to the "E" several times but no fuel light has come on. I am not sure if there is one on this model. Can someone tell if this has a fuel light or not? Thanks.

sc0rpi0 · February 2004

I'm pretty sure that all trucks come with fuel low light (it would actually be a liability to Toyota not to have it). The bulb may be burnt out, or maybe you didn't go low enough? I have to get it almost level with E to have the light come on. In fact, the light comes on at about 15.6-15.7 gallon mark.

mtngal · February 2004

My 2000 2WD Tacoma 4 banger has a fuel light. I've only seen it a couple of times because it comes on so late and I usually don't let it get that low.

oregonboy · February 2004

I've never had a low fuel light come on in my '96 LX V6. I had concluded that I didn't have one, although the LX V6 was the top-of-the-line 2wd model back then. My owner's manual implys that not all '96 Tacos got the light.

The greatest amount of gas that I have used to fill-up is 14.2 gallons. Tank capacity is 15.1 gallons.

2k1trd · February 2004

I'm guessing that your miss-fire problem is from low compression in one or more cylinders.The 4cyl in the Tacoma has some history of burning valves in the #1 cylinder.I have actually repaired one myself.What happens is that the exhaust valve gradualy sinks more and more into the seat with use untill finally losing all lash and hangs open and causing miss-fire conditions.

paul_p · February 2004

Try changing the distributor cap and rotor.

Btw, I've noticed on my 1993 22RE the #1 spark plug becomes fouled before the others, and I have to clean it about every 7,500 miles. Usually I switch it with another plug to minimize wear. I've been doing this for 90,000 miles and otherwise there has not been one sign of wear from this engine. Current mileage is 189,622. The exhaust system is the original, and I expect it to make it to 200,000 miles. Every summer I bang it with a hammer, and every summer it responds with a "bing."

The drill for maintaing my truck - every 15,000 miles:

1) Change plugs with new. Gap according to manual (mine says .031")
2) Shake out (or replace, if really dirty) the air filter.
3) Take the air intake off the fuel throttle body, spray a *little* bit of gumout inside. Open the throttle plate manually, and carefully brush with an old toothbrush. Carefully wipe with a clean rag.
4) Put the air intake back on, and spray gumout on the throttle linkage. Wait for it to dry, then spray it real good with WD-40. I test the throttle by hand to ensure proper operation for safety before driving.
5) Remove the distributor cap and rotor, and scrape the metallic contact points lightly with a screwdriver to remove corrosion. Replace if it looks really bad.
6) Check the oil, antifreeze, brake, clutch, and power steering fluid levels.

I also try to replace all fluids including the antifreeze, manual transmission oil, brake/clutch fluid, and differential fluid at least once every two years. I adjusted the valves at 134,000 miles. Probably should do that again, and change the power steering fluid this summer at 200,000 miles.

Though not recommended, I periodically spray WD-40 into my front end and suspension points. There used to be a front end squeak at 140,000 miles but it went away when I started doing this. I've heard this procedure could cause the rubber to wear faster, but at almost 190,000 miles - so far so good. Makes it much easier to steer and more responsive. And no more annoying squeaks.

In the winter I use 5w-30, spring and fall 10w-30, and summer 10w-40 weight oil. This seems to work well for me in central New England's climate.

Hope this helps,
- P.

tommc · February 2004

You mean to say they actually had factory people come and take a look at thin paint in this hidden location? You realize that if you had a Chevy or Ford you couldn't get a factory rep interested if the engine blew up and burned the whole damn vehicle up/down. Get a can of spray paint touch up and do the job. With the zinc primers and galvanized body panels, there will be no problem with rust anyway. I'd be tickled to death if my GM vehicles had only similiar problems.

jmf2 · February 2004

I have read in #904 from sc0rpi0 something relating to a break in alignment for the Tacoma. I have an 03 Quad Cab, V6 with auto and it pulls to the left.
Is there such a thing as a free break in alignment from the dealer that is covered under warranty?

sc0rpi0 · February 2004

I don't exactly remember how long you have....I think it's 10K miles, but your first alignment within that period that you do at the dealer is free, b/c truck is settling down and will go out of alignment. It is covered under warranty.

mickybajwa · February 2004

Can I replace the stock rear view mirror in my 2001 Tacoma with one from 2004 4-Runner which has Auto-Dimming and Electronic Compass functionalities? I don't know if the mirror needs an electric connection or runs of batteries.
If not, can I replace it with mirrors from other makes like Ford or GMC which have the same functionalities?

Please advise.

majcommo · February 2004

My 97 Tacoma with the 2.7L had very similar problems; (see post 891). I determined the cause was malfunction of the throttle position sensor (TPS). I liberally exercised the TPS and reinstalled. It's now 21K miles later and it has never hesitated since.

bhamfan · February 2004

I bought a 2004 Tacoma SR5 Prerunner TRD last week and really love it. However, I've always driven cars and the truck really rides rough - you feel every little bump. I realize it's because of the TRD package, but I was wondering if there was any modification (like to the suspension) that can be made to improve the ride. Thanks in advance for any help.

dust90 · February 2004

Did you check your tire pressure? The majority of new vehicles that I have picked up a dealerships had overinflated tires. Makes a big difference!

sc0rpi0 · March 2004

TRD is fairly soft ride.
Tire pressure makes the most difference. You should have stock tires set at around 28-30 psi (or whatever your door says).
If you want to try and soften the ride, there are certain things you could do, like put softer shocks or springs on it, but it'll cost ya.

2k1trd · March 2004

I actually got the TRD option just for the softer ride!...no complaints here.

sc0rpi0 · March 2004

When I bought mine, I testdrove both regular and TRD. TRD seemed softer, and with it's progressive coils, there's a reason why it is softer.
Seriously, check your tire pressure. My Discount Tire once aired mine up to 50 (!!! I was back the next day talking to manager)....I felt every penny on the road.

walter99 · March 2004

In my opinion the TRD suspension is so soft that it is inherently dangerous. My Tacoma had serious sway issues, and if I hit a dip while cornering at highway speeds the whole truck would oscillate repeatedly from front to back. Not a confidence builder. Installed an anti-sway bar and tires with a stiff sidewall. Huge improvement.

sc0rpi0 · March 2004

Interesting.
My TRD never swayed. In fact, it was much like my old Blazer with only-God-knows-how-old shocks on it, which was like a brick on the road.
Tacomas all come with antisway bars on the front. Maybe yours wasn't connected properly or something. Maybe you got a bad set of tires (stock TRD tires do have a 2ply wall, if I remember correctly) or tire pressure was down.
Either way....it's all a matter of preference. Good to see you got your TRD fixed up. People should take a truck on a nice testdrive (some dealers, like mine, allow taking a truck overnight. When I bought mine, I told the dealer I wanted to wait an additional week so I can make a larger downpayment, since truck arrived earlier than expected. Dealer gave me the truck for a week, with no purchase necessary afterwards, if I didn't like it) and check how well they like the suspension.
At one point I wanted to buy an Isuzu Rodeo Sport, and testdrove it......now there was some soft suspension. Nose dips every time you hit brakes, sway left to right, nose goes up at acceleration....like a rollercoaster ride

mtngal · March 2004

I agree that the longer test drive you can manage, the better. I didn't realize until about a month after I bought my Tacoma that the seats don't fit me well at all.

I have the basic 2WD 4 banger SR5 and have found the suspension soft, but not that soft on the highway. It does "wallow" on a dirt road (not a 4x4 route - just a hard, tightly cornered mountain road) far more than I liked, but I've never noticed a problem while paved roads.

eomckamey · March 2004

I replaced the stock mirror on our 2002 Std. Cab Tacoma...with a Gentex brand (the firm makes 90% of all those oem self-dimming/temp/compass mirrors). Purchased same at JC Whitney (ck their web site and catalog (free at the website)for any sale (ie. lower price, free shipping etc.) The reason (at least on our 2002 that such a mirror wasn't available from Toyota...was the replacement mirror is slightly wider and driver's sun visor & can not clear properly. Such is not a real problem ie. with careful positioning the driver's side visor can be maneuvered around any larger replacement mirror. The Gentex brand mirror (from Whitney) will be much less costly that buying same from any Toyota parts outfit (even with a 10% discount etc.). The mirror requires running a wire out to front grille area (for sensor), hooking a wire into the backup light wire (under seat area...to allow the self-dimming feature to shut off when vehicle is in reverse), and making a connection to some wire that is hot with ignition switch on.
Finally, you will have to remove the pillar trim on driver's side, pry loose the forward edge of headliner near windshield and run wire(s) up to center of frnt. windshield/inside at mirror area. I would also suggest that you go to NAPA store and ask for their windshield mounting kit (for rear mirrors...with cement etc. This kit is a quality version that is much better than one you see advertised at JC Whitney....Trust me on this). Finally, you can go to the following web site
<http://www.mitocorp.com/nvsmirro.htm>
where you can view specifics of how such mirrors work and see complete installation instructions. You can do it!

Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Tacoma: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions