Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

gpm5 · January 2001

Yeah, but who would have thought that the US vs Japan made 684 was different in size. When I buy tires, I make sure they've also been all made about the same time--and pick them myself, if possible. I've sometimes seen in sales where they try to pawn off some older ones (you can tell from how dusty they are--or a slight change on the outside), laying ontop of the stack.

paisan · January 2001

Maybe I can get the tire pro-rated for being off by 1/2"? I guess it's worth a try to see if Bridgestone will stand by their tires for me...

-mike

gpm5 · January 2001

I don't know if you'll ever end up with one that is the same if you return it, but its worth a try. Do they sell the Japan made 684 tires in the US?

sbcooke · January 2001

What is the largest size tire that can fit on the stock rims and in the wheel wells without a lift?

paisan · January 2001

Of the major tire manufacturers. (Firestone/Bridgestone, Pirelli) both have tables that tell you the size rim you can fit a tire on. Pretty much anything you can put on the Trooper rim, will fit in the wheel well w/o a lift.

-mike

clubsaab · January 2001

My nephew who loves his 98 Rodeo AS has indicated that he has been smelling what appears to a sulfuric odor from exhaust system. This odor has not been noticed inside the cabin of the vehicle and typically in the mornings. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, would you be kind enough to share how to best address the matter. Thanks in advance.

paisan · January 2001

a bad catalytic converter. It should be covered under warranty (I believe emissions are covered longer than even the 3/50K warranty)

-mike

sdc2 · January 2001

come from the catalytic converter. Often it is the result of excess fuel being burned in the cc. Your vehicle may be running too rich, or possibly this is just a cold start issue that goes away after warming up.

Check your gas mileage to see if it has decreased noticably - that would indicate the engine is running too rich. Why it would be running rich is another question, probably requiring a diagnostic trip to the shop.

bama_luke · January 2001

A few weeks ago while out of town, my check engine light came on. Since I was going home the next day, I decided to wait until then to get it checked out. As part of my pre-travel routine, I checked the oil, and it was about 1.5 quarts low. I added oil, and headed home. About 1 hour or so into the trip, I noticed that the check engine light had gone out. This was about 2-3 weeks ago and since the light went out, I didn't take the truck (2000 Rodeo LS) in for a check up. The light has not come back on. Could the check engine light have come on in relation to the oil level being down? Should I still take it in and have it looked at?

Luke

sdc2 · January 2001

I haven't heard of the light being connected to a low oil sensor, but I can't rule it out...but it might have been something as simple as a loose gas cap. The light comes on then because the fuel system is not correctly pressurized.

gpm5 · January 2001

I took my trooper in today for body repair (replace back bumper and fix dent under light--he said he could pop most of that out, and paint/clear coat). A van clipped the corner in a parking lot when the trooper was unoccupied. Total for repair $1070.

skanich · January 2001

For the 99 trooper, scheduled maintenance includes the change of front and rear axle oil. My dealer quoted $180 for this service. Has anyone had this done and what was the cost.

sdc2 · January 2001

$180!!! Wow, that seems steep. I did it myself, spent maybe $20-25 on materials (lube, LSD additive, fluid pump). If I had access to a hoist like the dealer does, it would have been a snap. As it was, laying on the floor of my garage, it was messy and not very comfortable for a while, but well worth $180.

bluedevils · January 2001

I would not have these services performed at the dealer. $180 sounds like about 3-4 times more than a decent shop should charge. My opinion: any decent shop that understands 4wd vehicles should be able to change fluids such as front and rear axle oil.

I'm no expert in these areas, but my impression is that replacing the axle oil at 15,000 miles represents an unnecessary maintenance procedure, unless you're somehow stressing the fluids through severe weather or sever driving habits.

drmperalta · January 2001

"I'm no expert in these areas, but my impression is that replacing the axle oil at
15,000 miles represents an unnecessary maintenance procedure, unless you're
somehow stressing the fluids through severe weather or sever driving habits. "

I would agree with you on what you said, IF, you have an ordinary open differential (2WD models). However, the 4WD versions have limited slip diff with clutch packs inside. The clutches degrade the oil faster than that of the ordinary diff. The front diff doesn't have to be replaced that often because it's not active (unstressed) on more than 90% of the time.

dchopp · January 2001

Where did you get the info that all 4WD come with Rear Limited Slip Differentials? When I purchased mine , it was an option.
96 Rodeo
DC HOPp

drmperalta · January 2001

I'm talking about '98 and up models.

ocelot1 · January 2001

well I just had my diff changed allong with the manual trans at the dealer they charged me 64.00 so thats front\rear\trans

paisan · January 2001

The LSD shouldn't need it changed that often at all. The old "posi-traction" rear LSDs didn't really need em changed that often. In the manual it states that you only need to change the fluids @ 15K intervals under severe conditions, lots of city driving, heavy towing, offroading, extreme heat. Since most of my driving is highway driving, i plan on doing the changes of the Automatic Trans, T-Case and Diffs @ 30K miles. Anyone out there have feelings on synthetic differential, AT and T-case fluids. I'm seriously considering going with Red Line synthetics. http://www.redlineoils.com

-mike

gpm5 · January 2001

Changing at 30k sounds reasonable to me. That's what is suggested on my transaxle 3.6L FORD, which I did, and those have a lot more heat and abuse than what any of these fluids in the trooper must get. In those front wheel drives the axle and tranny fluid is all on thing--right on the heat of the engine.

I got my trooper at 16k miles, and I don't think fluids were changed. I've heard others say if they look good don't mess with them. Also, I've seen when people changed them, they had problems. So 30k sounds good to me.

sbcooke · January 2001

I had the 15K service done. I was slighlty concerned about possible water in the axles. I think the best time to get this done is after you go offroading and hit deep water. If you have it done at 15K and then go offroading you might be doing the same thing twice.

troopernewbie · January 2001

Could that price is for the entire 15K mile service, and not just the differentials? The service advisor at my dealer talked me out of doing everything in the book listed for the 30K service. He said do the difs, the transfer case fluid, the transmission fluid, change the coolant, and forget about the rest.

By the way I just looked at my invoice and I was charged $62 for changing front and rear dif fluid at an Isuzu dealer.

troopin · January 2001

I just did the first complete fluid change (except for the cranny). I did it at 10k miles because of the very severe driving conditions where I live. All the fluids looked pretty good except for Transfer case/OD fluid. That was pretty dark. After changing the OD seems to work even better. Just food for thought. Saving a little now can have bad results later on down the road. I did the service myself for about $20. It was worth it to ME.

bluedevils · January 2001

It sounds like you have a very helpful dealer, or at least that particular service advisor. I've never heard a service advisor be that straightforward. They are either uncaring and indifferent, or always trying to push tons of maintenance stuff-- the manufacturer-recommended stuff plus additional unnecessary stuff.

What area do you live in? I've visited only one Isuzu dealer in the Detroit area (there are only 3 or 4 total!) and have been unimpressed.

bluedevils · January 2001

We do very little severe weather driving in our Trooper - it doesn't go off-road at all. I'm beginning to feel that driving style makes a HUGE difference in how soon various fluid changes are necessary, if at all.

For example, I asked my dad about coolant changes in the cars my parents have owned over the years. My dad said he never had the coolant changed in any vehicle he's owned. I was shocked, but then I thought about it a bit more. They've never had any serious mechanical problems with any of their cars, even though the only fluid he's had changed is the engine oil. I'm not recommending that people never change their fluids, but this little story is something small to think about.

bluedevils · January 2001

Our '98 Trooper just turned past 40,000 miles yesterday. We bought it at 1 year old, with 7,000 miles on it (was one of those Isuzu corporate vehicles that's used at Isuzu's U.S. HQ in California). The only fluids I've changed are the engine oil, coolant, and TOD system fluid.

I change the engine oil myself every 3,000 miles and use 5W30 Castrol or Valvoline synthetic blend with Isuzu filter. I consider the 3,000 mile oil change to be cheap insurance. Plus my Trooper uses about a quart every 2-3k miles, so I don't want to add more oil then change it immediately-- that seems pretty wasteful. Doing the change myself, it costs about 15 bucks for synthetic blend oil ($2 a quart on sale) with a genuine Isuzu filter ($4 from St. Charles Isuzu).

The TOD system fluid I changed accidentally at 10k miles - I was trying to drain the engine oil but accidentally drained the TOD system instead. I plan to change the TOD system fluid myself tomorrow and I'm going to use Valvoline Durablend (synthetic blend) auto trans fluid.

The coolant was changed, for the first time, last week by the dealer.

I have not changed other fluids such as the transmission fluid, front & rear axle fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. I will probably have the axle fluid changed in the next 5-10k miles.

bluedevils · January 2001

I don't understand the mechanicals too well, so I think I may getting confused by different terminology being used by some of us.

Is the front axle fluid and the "front LSD fluid" the same thing? I know that LSD stands for limited slip differential (at least in this context). Is it the same thing with the rear axle fluid and rear LSD fluid too?

bluedevils · January 2001

Has anybody with a newer ('92+) Trooper had problems with a loose driver's seat? My '96 Trooper never developed this problem (it was totaled with 51,000 miles on it) but my current '98 Trooper has what I'd call a bad case of the loosies.

I bought the '98 with 7k miles. It now has 40k miles. Since probably 25-30k miles, the seat has had too much forward/rearward play. When sitting in the seat, it's easy to make it slide fore or aft probably 1/2". It also squeaks quite a bit when you do this. The seat is noticeably loose.

Of course, the dealer found nothing wrong when they looked it over. Something about "checked for loose bolts or worn parts and found no problems". That's in spite of the fact that the service advisor got in the truck and rocked the seat back and forth while the seat squeaked very loudly.

troopernewbie · January 2001

I'm in Phoenix, AZ. There are around five or six Isuzu dealers here. Of the three that are close to my house, the one I use (Chapman Chevy/Isuzu) is the one who said a split seam on my driver's seat was a warranty item. That gave me the impression they were more service oriented.

The drivers seat in our Trooper has a very slight rock in the back, but the base is very solid. Now my Audi A4 w/11K miles has a serious rock to it...grrrrrr. But it's one of those things I'd rather have them replace near the end of the warranty rather than early in the warranty period. What's sad is the fact that my wife and I are both tall and don't ever need to move the seat. It's been in the same spot since we bought it and it still rocks. I'm not sure where the manufacturers are messing up with these seats, but I really expect better on a $30K car. Oh well, many other Audi owners have the same complaint.

The way I understand it, the same oil goes in the front and rear dif. However, if the rear is LSD then there's another bottle of fluid that gets added to "condition" the clutches of the LSD.

bluedevils · January 2001

troopernewbie-- be sure you repay your nice dealer with as much service on your Trooper as you can, and refer them to others. I think it's time for me to try a different Isuzu dealer. Sorry about your A4 seat. I would expect a company like Audi (a higher-end manufacturer) to take care of that kind of thing. But if it's very common on the A4 and Audi hasn't figured out an economical way for its dealers to fix it, then the dealer probably won't do much to make it better. BTW, is it a manual or automatic? 1.8T 4 or 2.8 6?

I bet Isuzu would like knowing that a Trooper owner's other vehicle is an A4. I see them as both being a bit different and a cut above the competition. Both vehicles represent the choice of an educated consumer. Anybody can buy a 4Runner or an ES300, but you probably did some research to end up with a Trooper or A4. The A4 has become more common these days, but the Trooper has not. Oh well, maybe you'll need to get into an S4 instead!

On a more general note...

I've been noticing that writing up a work/repair order is an art form. I've been to many Ford, Linc/Merc, Mitsubishi, and Isuzu dealers in the past 3-4 years, and there is a common thread to the way every service advisor at every dealership documents the "problems" that are explained by the vehicle owner.

The common thread is that the initial documentation never acknowledges that anything is wrong. Phrases such as "customer states that" and "check for" almost always appear at the beginning of any concern that's noted on the paperwork. There must be a Service Writing 101 course that every advisor must pass. Dealerships go out of their way to make sure they don't box themselves into fixing something.

My experience this past Monday with my local Isuzu dealer revealed two "check for" comments and a "customer states that". The loose seat was a "customer states that" even though the advisor climbed in and saw for himself how loose and noisy the driver's seat was. Of course, he never even acknowledged verbally that anything was wrong with it. I'll try to be smarter next time and work to get a verbal admission of the problem, or ideally a written one.

Also, I had the dealer rotate the tires (front to back). I check tire pressure frequently and keep it at the manufacturer's 30psi front/ 35psi rear spec. Today at the gas station I was able to confirm quite easily that the dealer indeed did rotate the tires-- I checked the pressure and, sure enough, the fronts were at 35 and the rears were at 30! This is the kind of stuff that is just unacceptable. I mean, Ford and Firestone are arguing over the importance of 26psi vs. 30psi on the Explorers. I can't wait until my vehicle is out of warranty. Then I won't worry as much about things that I feel should be fixed under warranty. What I can fix myself, I will. What I can't will remain unfixed.

I just realized I might be in the Phoenix area in April to attend a wedding. Maybe instead of flying I'll drive my Trooper cross-country just to have it serviced at a solid dealership!

sbcooke · January 2001

I am not sure if the front has a LSD? I believe they are both GM/Isuzu Corporate Differentials, but I think the front has to be open due to the amount of wheel travel.

dchopp · January 2001

Does anyone know if a leaky oil pan gasket is covered under the Powertrain Warrenty?

deimos · January 2001

I've asked this before

It just happened again, washed it(in -20C) drove to the dealer, spent some time there and then the car moved/started with difficulty (with a jolt after releasing the clutch)!

This time I called the mechanic to do it and I've watched...When it moved forward a big CLUNK was heard from the rear of the truck(it was in 2WD), then we saw some particles of ices(maybe they fell of the truck)

The mechanic first said that yes, he would change the clutch, but he thought that the clutch was OK and then suspected that "the break pads got stuck, because of the ice" (BTW do disc brakes still have pads?)
He suggested that maybe I should remind them to check the brakes(they'll "oil them a bit also"?), but ....I'll have to pay for the operation if I'll ask for it when only an oil change is scheduled??!

I'll have to think about it, any hints?

The minimum I'm doing is to park it with the back in the garage, because it seems that the problems in reverse are worse(once it wouldn't budge at all for me, just revved)...I think I read about some Trooper owner saying the same at Edmunds.com....

troopernewbie · January 2001

I researched both the Trooper and A4 extensively before buying. The A4 is a 2000 1.8T Quattro, 5 spd, with sport & convenience packages, sport seats, and a Wetterauer chip (200+HP). It's an great car, but I'll lose my shirt on depreciation as it was purchased new. Oh well... the plan is to keep it until the wheels fall off so it shouldn't matter. Maybe the A4 will be our 9 month old daughter's first car! Both vehicles are (in my opinion) much better than the more common choices of Maxima and Explorer plus I have the added advantage of rarely seeing my twin at a stop light!

I think how you present yourself at a dealer can have a lot to do with how you're treated. If you come in having researched a problem (ie is there a TSB?), be able to explain what's wrong, how long it's been wrong, and what you expect to have happen, then you will be treated as an informed consumer. For example, with your seat problem have you had someone sit in the seat and rock it while you are underneath with a flashlight? You may be able to find a worn or broken part. It's hard for a service advisor or mechanic to blow you off when you can show some hard evidence that a part is truly defective. Should you have to do this? No. But, it may get your problem fixed.

Of course the real trick is to come across an informed consumer without sounding like a know-it-all jerk. It's a fine line! You have to acknowledge and respect the fact that the dealer can help you or send you on your way. You can always try the "Man, I sure hope you can help me... my wife's driving me nuts about this seat" approach. That will get you further than the "You need to fix this or else" approach. Or else what? Most problems with a modern vehicle are going to be much more complex than a rocky seat. Many times we are simply at the mercy of the dealers. But they are at our mercy for repeat business. Remember, even though it's warranty work the dealer gets paid by Isuzu to fix your truck.

paisan · January 2001

Why do you keep washing it in -20c weather? No offense, but that is probably your problem, the driveshaft and or brakes are getting covered with water (not in the normal fashion of being sprayed when driving) and then freezing up when you park it....

-mike

paisan · January 2001

Cool to see that others are Isuzu and Audi and Subaru enthusiasts. I find a lot of Isuzu people also drive small awd cars as well. I personally have an '88 Subaru XT6 to compliment my Trooper. When the XT6 dies, I'll likely get a subaru SVX or a new turbo WRX!

-mike

gberry · January 2001

I am taking my 2000 Trooper in for a major repair on Monday. The truck needs a completely new transmission and transfer case - an apparent factory defect! It has only 3000 miles but the defect was noticeable from the beginning. It took 2 weeks to get the parts in. The car is driveable, but downshifts when going uphill between 35 - 39 mph, resulting in a whooshing sound and remedied (temporarily) by flooring the gas pedal or keeping it in 3rd gear. The dealer said they'd provide me with a rental since it's a warranty repair - but it's snowing outside and I know I'm going to get stuck with an economy car in the 4 days it will take to hopefully fix this truck once and for all.

deimos · January 2001

Hi,

Why do I keep washing it in -20 C?

a) That's the freaking Canadian winter in Ottawa, Ontario

I haven't washed it for a long enough time, then the roads were wet(some snow, slush, etc) and I thought that yesterday was dry enough to spent money on the car wash...

But maybe it's a better idea to wash it when there are snow and slush? The next day it will be again salt under the car, etc, but at least won't freeze as easily?

Gee!

How often do other Rodeo owners wash their trucks in cold weather/winters?

paisan · January 2001

I generally only wash my truck, if it gets near freezing point, or if it's well below freezing, i'll wash it before a decently long trip (say an hour or 2) If it's really cold and you wash it and then go for an hour or 2 drive, it'll air-dry rather than freeze dry. One winter I didn't wash my rodeo from nov-mar. So long as you have a good coat of wax and you have a good under-body coating, you shouldn't have to worry about the salt eating up your truck. These aren't your paren'ts oldsmobile that rusts out!

-mike

sdc2 · January 2001

The front differential on a late model Trooper is an Isuzu 10-bolt open (non LSD). The rear is an Isuzu 12-bolt limited slip.

sdc2 · January 2001

According to my manual for my 99 Trooper, normal schedule for diff fluid change is at 15K, 30K, and then every 30K thereafter. Severe conditions schedule is every 15K.

Auto tranny fluid replacement is not recommended on the schedule - which is not to say it is a bad idea, just not required. However, the severe condition schedule is every 20K! That seems like overkill unless you are doing heavy towing. I plan on changing mine every 50K.

The schedule also doesn't recommend changing the TOD fluid, but I'll probably do that at 50K also.

lynster · January 2001

Hi guys... I've had lots of experience with my Rodeo at the dealer and saw some familiar questions...

Leaking oil pan is covered under the powertrain - I just got mine fixed 3 days ago

The rattling noise from the engine might be from a stuck lifter... try getting an engine flush. I just did that, it helped some, and cost $90 at the dealer. Another possibility for the rattling noise could poorly worn pistons/cylinders, but good luck getting the dealer to look at that. Another source of rattles is if the substrate in the catalytic convertor(s) has gone bad.

The rich fuel odor might be due to a problem with one of the fuel injectors. You might try getting the fuel injection system cleaned. Jiffy lube will do this for $39 or $59, something like that.

I got my differential oil changed at Jiffy Lube, they do that regularly and it cost about $39 an axle.

-lynne

drmperalta · January 2001

Hi,

Somebody mentioned that he replaced the front brake pads after 14K miles. I think that's too short mileage but I'm concerned because I'm now at 20K miles and have occasional brake squeal esp when cold. I haven't inspected it yet but I plan to replace them during my scheduled tire rotation and balancing, while the wheels are off.

The isuzu front pads costs $61 while the Autozone's "Albany" brand is just $20. Your thoughts please about those two brands. I will highly appreciate your input. Thanks.

MFP

sdc2 · January 2001

Don't replace them unless they really are worn. A little squeek isn't necessarily anything to worry about, that is pretty common these days with non-asbestos brakes. If your wear indicator was squealing you will know it! And it would be making noise all the time, not just once in awhile.

Driving style is very important, on my last vehicle I went 142K miles before replacing the front brake pads! And I know other people that were replacing at 15K. So brake life can vary tremendously.

I recommend you have a brake inspection done, then decide if you need to do it. Places like Car-X will do it for free. I just hate to see people waste mony if they don't have to.

paisan · January 2001

When cold you will get some brake squeel, just pump your brakes hard a few times when you first start out and it should clear em up. My first set of pad on my '97 Rodeo went 60,000 miles (and I do a lot of city/stop and go driving) I'd go with Isuzu pads if I was planning on keeping the car.

-mike

mhills1 · January 2001

Back again with the same cranny problem. I had the winter drive switch replaced, and the truck is still taking off in what I believe to be third gear. Both shops that I have taken it to don't believe that the problem is in the cranny itself, because the truck runs fine until the check Tarns. light comes on. After the light comes on, the owners manual says that the cranny automatically reverts to back-up mode. Which means that I have to drive it as if it had a manual transmission. The mechanic says that driving it like this, until I can get it in to the dealer, won't hurt anything. Can this advice be trusted?

paisan · January 2001

You can drive it manually like that but I wouldn't do it for an extended time. I'd get it to a dealer as soon as possible.

-mike

troopernewbie · January 2001

There are lots of places that will inspect your brakes for free. Just be aware that many places that offer free inspections would insist you need new pads, rotors, and more, even on a brand new car.

Independent shops tend to be the most reliable. Have a mechanic you trust show you what good pads look like and what worn pads look like. Here's a great story on the subject from a California TV station. If you are a fan of chain repair shops don't read this!

http://www.channel2000.com/news/specialassign/news-specialassignment-980504-233235.html

ocelot1 · January 2001

anyone had there axle seals replaced. I just had the drivers side done it was leaking. then I took a 300 mile trip and notice the passenger side leaking. 98 with 45000 miles to weird huh?

gls2 · January 2001

thanks Lynne
I am taking my rodeo in next week to see if the rattling is the catalytic convertor or not.
GLS

Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles