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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories
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So, the proper wiring (as ARB intended anyway) would be to the green/black and black wires. This setup has worked correctly for me in any case...
If I have to try to fix it, I am going to have to remove about an entire roll of electrical tape that I used when I wired it up.
-mike
Now it is causing an issue with the display on my new receiver. Not a major problem, but annoying enough.
However, I do like the way the ARB signals/lights work. They blink when headlights are off. They turn on as parking/driving lights and blink when the headlights are on.
There is the rub, if I fix the lights, I lose the function I like. The amount of electrical tape I used on the wiring to keep water and what not out is a daunting prospect to remove and fix. I am going to first try to resolve the issue from the radio side of things, since the only effect seems to be the odometer flashing, and the rest of lights/dash seem to work fine.
-mike
I swtiched the JVC unit to have the illumination set to off, so it doesn't take input on the headlight/dashboard circuit. No more blinking. So for now I am going to leave it as is.
I also had an issue because I didn't get them exactly centered. So once the screws were tight, I noticed a little gap on one side under the rim. I just drilled a few more holes and added more screws to put it tight against the cutout. The metal rim got very slightly crooked, but it didn't seem to effect the shape of the woofer cone.
The sound is very good, at least from my first 10 minutes of listening. At normal levels it is hard to distinguish much difference, but as soon as you crank it up you can really hear how much better they are.
The crutchfield cables again fit easily. However the wire fell back into the door when I was adjusting it. I first tried to take the door panel off to retrieve it, I didn't realize the door has plastic sealing the entire inside compartment? I had to come up with another plan. A coat hanger did the trick.
The Polk EX350s are 5", slightly smaller, but have a cutout requirement of 7/8" of an inch less. This seems like a better choice than trying to cut through the metal back there. I called up crutchfield and it is no problem, they will swap out and still offer me the buy one get one at 1/2 price deal on the second set and hopefully this will be resolved this week.
I also picked up a set of Sylvania SilverStar headlight bulbs. They are definitely much whiter and brighter than the stock yellow or even the Sylvania Extra Visions I was using. It seems better from the drivers seat, however I don't know if level at which the light burns i.e. 4000K vs. 3200K (white vs yellow) actually translates into more lumens or candlepower?
-mike
Well its done. I think overall it was a decent upgrade, the stereo is awesome. MP3 functionality works well. The speakers are good, definitely better than stock. However, I would have liked to put slightly larger speakers in the rear, but the work involved in cutting holes in the metal in back was more than I really wanted to do.
Overall- JVC SX990, $175 delivered, Polk EX365s/EX350s $140 delivered. Crutchfield was great with the speakers. The return was no problem and my replacements were in the mail back the same day they were returned. I shipped the replacements Tuesday and got the replacements Thursday. Their price on speakers was much more competitive than their electronics.
$19.99 each at Autozone. Better than stock and whiter, but I am not sure if they are any better than the Sylvania XV bulbs which are 1/2 the price. They are whiter than the XV, but the distance at which I can see hasn't changed much since the change from XV.
Any advice.
Thanks
Sam
For right now I cut a piece of foam pipe insulation and curled it up tight, with the coax in the middle, to stuff the big hole, but this is a temporary fix.
-mike
Fog-lights in the ARB
Synthetic TOD and ATF Fluids
Electric Brake Controller
Semi-permenantly mounted AC Inverter with outlets in the center concole.
Rear lights for loading trailer at night.
OME or Replacement Rancho Shocks
Fix the Door that got smacked
-mike
If you drill a hole through I can think of a few ways to seal it...one is just with some kind of caulking/epoxy that sticks to metal and rubber, the second is by gluing some rubber circles? washers? plumbing item? or something with a smaller diameter than the cable on either side of the pass through, then you could just run your cable through and remove it and still have a tight fit.
I'll keep you updated as I start to get more of a plan in mind.
-mike
What is wrong with your current OME set up? Are the 919's better for towing?
-mike
Well I called Sams about the antenna mount for the ARB, they said they haven't been available for months, and no prospects for getting any...
Guess I could always just drill a hole in the top of the bumper if I wanted to.
I like having the antenna closer to the center of the vehicle anyway.
-mike
-mike
..
http://www.arbusa.com/OME_Nitrocharger_Shock_Absorbers.htm
http://www.rocky-road.com/trooper.html,
..
4 * ($65/each) = $260 for great shocks. You could probably find a lower price if you search harder than me.
http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/cart/RS9000X.html
I think it is worth an extra few hundred over the monroe's in the long run.
So I highly recommend this mod, it is low risk at only about $25, and is easily reversed if desired.
One note: I bought 1/4" x 1" fender washers for the install, but they did not fit over the studs. Regular 5/16" washers did the trick and were cheaper to boot. I definitely recommend stainless steel washers for this purpose, they were only $0.16 each at my local hardware store.
http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/hydra/app- s/4l30.htm
Anybody here have a pair? If so any feedback would be appreciated, especially about the installation.
I did some web surfing and found a salvage yard in my area with front seats w/ armrests AND lumbar and seat controls, for only $75 each, installed. The seats came off a 2001 Trooper and were in great condition...they also have better cushioning. Good Luck.
-mike
Link
-mike
I thought to check because I noticed the 2-3 upshift seemed to be getting delayed again while cold, slightly longer than after the flush. No other shifting issues so I am not in a huge rush, but will get it done in the next couple of weeks.
Oh well, another trip to the shop. I need an oil change so I will just get it done then.
If you get your work done at an independent shop they will likely not take the time/spend the money to get these dealer only washers. The point being you should take the washers to the shop whenever the plugs are to be removed.
If a dealer did the flush they should have used new washers and prevented the leak.
I meant to post this in the maintenance section. It was before I had my daily dose of coffee.
If you put original washer without RTV it will leak, if you put just regular washer it will leak
also, AT pan has a curve around these plugs and
washer doesn't sit right.
I still not get it how it was no leak in the first place.