Unfortunately, welcome to the club. My car had this happen when I was leaving to work. Had the vehicle towed to the dealer yesterday. Thankfully still has CPO. Unfortunately, they said they had to reprogram the car to see if this resolved the issue. Honestly, I do not think so. Probably needs whole new steering column. Contacted attorneys suing for minicooper Class Action to see if they want to take this up. I would file a complaint with NHTSA to make sure your issue is documented. Particularly since I called BMW and they state their is no investigation by the NHTSA. They are treating it as an isolated problem when there are many posts for E46 and E90 models, I believe X3 as well. Here is the link to file a NHTSA complaint:http://www.safercar.gov/link">
I think I'm going to get a Pontiac G8 GT instead... it's serviced locally at a chevy dealer, the reviews are raving,, replacement parts won't be that expensive,,, although it's a Pontiac (never thought I would even think about it),, it's supposed to be an awesome sport sedan. Thanks ya'll!!
The G8 is a great car, but remember that it is built in Australia and replacement parts may well be an issue over the next few years. Edmunds had a long term G8 and they had to wait two weeks for brake pads- and this was over a year ago.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
roadrunner, in your suggestion posted you mentioned replacing both the transfer box oil and the automatic transmission fluid. I was making appointment with the dealer today for the 60,000 miles (Inspection II) service on our 2006 325xiT. The service advisor told me the dealer's service foreman would not recommend such maintenance performed due to the potential damage to the respective components. I am now confused as to why he would discourage me for such services, since obviously I will be paying it our of my own pocket. Is there really a possibility for negative outcome from such service. Since my appointment is a week from now, so I still can insist on the services, if I want to do so.
What is your opinion on the reason the dealership wouldn't want to perform such service? TIA for your advice.
Any opinions on whether I should change my fuel filter or not? My 323ci has 325,000 miles on it (runs great too engine never rebuilt). It is easy to get to and change but it has never been changed. Will it damange my engine if I don't change it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The service advisor told me the dealer's service foreman would not recommend such maintenance performed due to the potential damage to the respective components.
My dealer performed a drain/fill on the automatic transmission(no filter R&R) and transfer case of my wife's X3 without any hesitation- the total bill was $207. If you want to replace the filter on the newer ZF autoboxes -like your car uses- you have to replace the oil pan and filter as a unit. and the new part costs @$270. Having said that, a simple darin/fill or the AT and TC is NOT rocket science, and I'd be very inclined to tell your SA that if the foreman doesn't think his shop is competent to handle what is a very simple job then you will find a shop that is qualified. A few other observations: BMW still calls for a 100,000 mile ATF change on most of their automatics; what does your dealer tell those customers? The transfer case is equipped with sensors that actually indicate when the fluid needs to be changed and will indicate a fault when hooked up to the DISplus or GT1 diagnostic computer. Does your dealer just ignore the fault and send the customers down the road in blissful ignorance? Just my $0.02...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Change it? Why? Fuel filters these days are good for an easy quarter of a million miles, errr, that is unless you live in the middle of a very dusty desert.
? what makes you say that? I can't say I've had a newer vehicle long enough to text your theory. Last vehicle I even took past the 100k mark was a '98. But if a fuel filter would last that long, what would be the point to having a filter at all? I mean, if what is coming out of your tank is THAT clean, then it certainly wouldn't hurt your engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Fuel filters aren't at all like they used to be, nor is gasoline. The filters are way-way larger and the fuel we buy now is cleaner by many orders of magnitude. FWIW, we've run two cars over the 200,000 mile mark with the factory filter, and have another two with 191,000 and 156,000 miles respectively, both with the factory filters in them as well.
The fact is, in-tank fuel filters in modern cars will easily last a quarter of a million miles unless you either buy horrifically bad gasoline (i.e. fuel which is nowhere near up to the minimum standards now required), and/or live in a very dusty area.
To turn the tables a bit; can you name me even a single (non-exotic) car sold in North America in the last decade that recommends periodic fuel filter replacement? I cannot.
huh. good question. I can't find the schedule for the wife's T&C, but I found the schedule for the GTI/Rabbit and it only suggests fuel filter replacement for the TDI.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
We've have/had a T&C and two GrandCaravans of various vintages starting in 1998 and none of them have any recommendation what-so-ever regarding the fuel filter.
Sorry if this is the wrong forum to put this question...
I am picking up my new 2011 328i x-drive tomorrow. I noticed that they have done away with the ashtray that had a cover-lid and cigarette lighter and replaced it with a rubber lined cavity. Is there a way to purchase an accessory that goes in that area and that gives me that lighter socket (for a charger) and the cover?
Hope this is not too late for you. Just joined the forum today. Had a 2005 325xi, Loved it. Was in an accident. Passenger side smashed - both front and back doors including the bottom panel, front bumper came off, side airbag deployed. The solid structure of the car saved my daughter's life, with God's blessings, when a van came crashing into us. It would have cost 26K to repair. Totaled at market value. Good luck on yours.
Maintenance records for BMWs in Carfax often indicate chassis lubrication along with oil changes. The owner's manual for my 2007 328i does not have any information re chassis lube. In fact, the last grease fittings I have seen are the ones on my 1995 F-150 pickup. Do BMWs in recent years need chassis lubrication?
This is not a direct answer to your question (sorry!), but the covered ash tray with outlet is part of the "smokers package." You might want to start by seeing if your local dealer can do an aftermaket "smokers package"
If the outlet is your only issue, a place might be able to tap into the electric, but giving you a socket that doesn't look weird would probably be the problem.
OK, you can see how new I am to BMWs. So, the points that used to need lubrication are now where bushings are used? Sometimes I see references to bushings needing replacement.
No problem! I've been playing with Bimmers for a while so don't hesitate to ask a question; I'm always happy to talk BMWs
So, the points that used to need lubrication are now where bushings are used?
Sometimes- but the ball joints, tie rod ends and, steering linkage are also sealed. BMW does use a lot of bushings in their suspension systems, and they do wear out eventually, although in many cases you can source a more durable replacement from another BMW platform or the aftermarket. The 3 Series rear shock mount is a good example- there is an upgraded OEM part available as well as several good aftermarket alternatives.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks for your reply. I was worried about having to run a navigation charger cable from the armrest socket to the windscreen. Thankfully, the BMW has a charger socket just to the left and underneath the glove compartment. So no big worry. Even though I liked the lid that covers the ashtray on the smoker's package. Otherwise, very happy with my new car!
The speedometer in my 2007 328xi reads consistently 6% high. When the speedometer reads 75 mph you're really going about 70 mph. My calculation is based on two portable GPS units which are both spot on with the speedometers in my other two cars. The car has 83K miles but this has been a problem since day one. The dealer has shrugged this off as "within specifications". The odometer, however, is absolutely accurate when compared to the GPS units over long hiway drives. Of course, this in no way affects the performance of the car but is a real PIA when speeding and you want to know exactly how fast you're really going.
You have no choice but to file a class action. Your damages: the points and fines you could have paid to the municipality, that unbelievably, has issued you a license.
Well my point is that I don't need a nanny speedometer to keep me under the posted limit. I would also expect the "Ultimate Driving Machine" to have something as basic as a speedometer work accurately. :P
These links are very interestsing but if GM can export cars to Europe with the appropriate modifications to its speedometers to meet EU regulations then why can't the "Ultimate Driving Machine" (BMW are you listening?) make cars for the American market that have speedos that are as accurate as GM's are for this market? Obviously they can and should!
It isn't that BMW cannot make an accurate speedometer, it's just that given how the rules (and penalties) are written, they deliberately choose to err on the high side of reality. Someone posted a link to the rules as they were (then) written a few years ago in one of the BMW threads here in the TownHall, and a quick read revealed why the decision was made.
So, long story short, "That's not a bug, that's a feature!"
I'm sorry but you folks sound like apologists for BMW, "... a feature!" Perhaps in the EU they choose to "err on the high side of reality", but again, in a big market like the USA, if they so chose, BMW could include speedos that are accurate.
Buy that Math Made Easy DVD set and before you know it you will be able to calculate the actual speed in your head! Hint: indicated speed in mph-@5 mph= true speed in mph
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
You know guys that when you change e the wheel size the speedo changes. My 335 with 17" wheels goes slower than the speedo. There is a fix just a little plastic gizmo that hooks up to the speedometer and corrects the wheel difference from 16". But the question is why does it bother you? Worry about the car after the warranty expires.
I have an 02 325ci with 89k; it doesn't burn oil as far as I know but I do get the oil changed every 7,500 miles. Basically, oil holds dirt in suspension and at 15k the oil comes out looking like sludge which would suggest that even top quality oil isn't doing as good a job of lubricating/cooling the engine as it might.
Done correctly changing the wheel size from 19 to 18 to 17 to 16 will have absolutely zero affect on the speedometer or the odometer. Said another way, wheel size has no affect what-so-ever on the speedometer or the odometer.
Done correctly changing the wheel size from 19 to 18 to 17 to 16 will have absolutely zero affect on the speedometer or the odometer. Said another way, wheel size has no affect what-so-ever on the speedometer or the odometer.
I agree... It isn't the wheel diameter or circumference that has an effect, its the tire's outer circumference that determines the effect...if any.
dear radburner or others: This might be an odd question, but I noticed, that when I fill up my tank, the fuel indicator needle does not go all the way to the top, it stays on 1. Instead of going above 1. It is slightly above 1 but still it shows that it is at least full. Did you have the same experience on the 328xi, 2011? Please share. I have driven a BMW before, but never noticed such a thing. Your reply is highly appreciated.
Are you speaking from experience that Mobil 1 synthetic oil comes out like sludge after 15k miles?? I've had my oils changed at 15k mile intervals. 2006 101k miles.
I change the oil in my wife's X3 2.5 every 8000 miles, primarily because used oil analysis shows that the TBN(additive package) is almost totally depleted by that mileage. I get similar results whether I use an LL-01 oil(Mobil 1 0W-40) or an SM rated HDEO(Mobil 1 5W-40Turbo Diesel Truck). Granted, this is only one data point, but I'm not inclined to extend the oil change interval on that particular engine. Furthermore, there is no way I'd run the oil in an N54 or N55 engine past 5000 miles without analysis.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Did you ever get an answer about why "Net Search" appears when your phone pairs. I have a Nokia and the proper phone name and model # always used to appear when I got in the car, but yesterday "Net Search" started appearing. It's weird because when I hit the BT button in the car to list all paired devices the proper Nokia name is displayed. I have deleted the paired device and repaired, but Net Search still appears. Thanks.
thanks for your quick reply roadburner. But when I first bought the car on the first day, the fuel gauge (needle) was above full (1). That is why I was worried. I will ask around still and see what happens. I will post the good or bad news here.
I change the oil in my wife's X3 2.5 every 8000 miles, primarily because used oil analysis shows that the TBN(additive package) is almost totally depleted by that mileage. I get similar results whether I use an LL-01 oil(Mobil 1 0W-40) or an SM rated HDEO(Mobil 1 5W-40Turbo Diesel Truck). Granted, this is only one data point, but I'm not inclined to extend the oil change interval on that particular engine. Furthermore, there is no way I'd run the oil in an N54 or N55 engine past 5000 miles without analysis.
I definitely agree with your last sentence.
As you know, driving characteristics heavily influence oil quality.
I've used synthetic oils for years (well before they were "cool"), and because most of my family's trips are relatively short, I change the oil every 5K miles. But, if I had, say... a 75 mile (each way) commute 5 days a week, I would feel safe extending that 5K range to 7.5K, or maybe 10k.
I would say that, for most, the real enemy of engines is the lack of reaching true operating temperature in order to "cook out" the moisture in the oil.
That's why I find it difficult to give a "one size fits all" recommendation to someone when the ask my opinion on oil change frequency.
In the end, the only true way to determine what is best for an individual auto is a professional oil analysis...at least, IMHO...
Regarding oil change intervals, a local dealer told me 1 year or 15,000 miles is what is called for in my 2007 328i. Thinking back, could this be what the key told the service rep? I have put only 300 miles on the car so far, so virtually the entire driving history is related to the original owner - the only previous owner.
Regarding oil change intervals, a local dealer told me 1 year or 15,000 miles is what is called for in my 2007 328i. Thinking back, could this be what the key told the service rep? I have put only 300 miles on the car so far, so virtually the entire driving history is related to the original owner - the only previous owner.
That is indeed the company line, so he's telling you what BMW suggests. Of course, all BMW is really interested in (as is every manufacturer) is getting the car through warranty, and most oil-related failures don't happen within the first 50K miles...
There are many of us that don't agree with that suggestion, and we see an oil change every 5-7.5 K miles as cheap insurance against what may be an incredibly expensive engine repair.
The oild change "timing" question on BMW's seems to be the #2 issue in new BMW's, only being surpassed by the run-flat issue.
Again, the only sure way to know the condition of YOUR oil is to get an independent oil analysis done.
Its pretty easy, and not terribly expensive.
On the other hand, I was having my wife's MINI serviced recently, and the advisor was on the phone with a client, explaining that he was getting a new engine/turbo unit on his 10 month old MINI (which was in for its first monitor-scheduled service at 18K miles) due to oil related engine failure. He was lucky, as it was under warranty.
IMO, I change it every year or 5K miles. Maybe some see that as foolish, but I have only had 1 engine related failure in all my years (I'm 56) and lots of cars, and that failure was a leaking valve guide/seal that was an issue the day I bought the car... and fixed before it had 4K miles on it.
Comments
As you said, 100% of the cars don't have the problems.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
What is your opinion on the reason the dealership wouldn't want to perform such service? TIA for your advice.
Thanks!
My dealer performed a drain/fill on the automatic transmission(no filter R&R) and transfer case of my wife's X3 without any hesitation- the total bill was $207. If you want to replace the filter on the newer ZF autoboxes -like your car uses- you have to replace the oil pan and filter as a unit. and the new part costs @$270. Having said that, a simple darin/fill or the AT and TC is NOT rocket science, and I'd be very inclined to tell your SA that if the foreman doesn't think his shop is competent to handle what is a very simple job then you will find a shop that is qualified.
A few other observations:
BMW still calls for a 100,000 mile ATF change on most of their automatics; what does your dealer tell those customers?
The transfer case is equipped with sensors that actually indicate when the fluid needs to be changed and will indicate a fault when hooked up to the DISplus or GT1 diagnostic computer. Does your dealer just ignore the fault and send the customers down the road in blissful ignorance?
Just my $0.02...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I can't say I've had a newer vehicle long enough to text your theory. Last vehicle I even took past the 100k mark was a '98. But if a fuel filter would last that long, what would be the point to having a filter at all? I mean, if what is coming out of your tank is THAT clean, then it certainly wouldn't hurt your engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The fact is, in-tank fuel filters in modern cars will easily last a quarter of a million miles unless you either buy horrifically bad gasoline (i.e. fuel which is nowhere near up to the minimum standards now required), and/or live in a very dusty area.
To turn the tables a bit; can you name me even a single (non-exotic) car sold in North America in the last decade that recommends periodic fuel filter replacement? I cannot.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I am picking up my new 2011 328i x-drive tomorrow. I noticed that they have done away with the ashtray that had a cover-lid and cigarette lighter and replaced it with a rubber lined cavity. Is there a way to purchase an accessory that goes in that area and that gives me that lighter socket (for a charger) and the cover?
If the outlet is your only issue, a place might be able to tap into the electric, but giving you a socket that doesn't look weird would probably be the problem.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
No problem! I've been playing with Bimmers for a while so don't hesitate to ask a question; I'm always happy to talk BMWs
So, the points that used to need lubrication are now where bushings are used?
Sometimes- but the ball joints, tie rod ends and, steering linkage are also sealed.
BMW does use a lot of bushings in their suspension systems, and they do wear out eventually, although in many cases you can source a more durable replacement from another BMW platform or the aftermarket. The 3 Series rear shock mount is a good example- there is an upgraded OEM part available as well as several good aftermarket alternatives.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
You have no choice but to file a class action. Your damages: the points and fines you could have paid to the municipality, that unbelievably, has issued you a license.
Read post # 11 for an explanation...
Or...
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2010:120:0040:0048:EN- :PDF
So, long story short, "That's not a bug, that's a feature!"
The answer is simple for you....
Don't like the product? Then, don't buy it. But, don't look at a VW, because they are said by many to have the same issue.
I can't speak for MB, but it wouldn't surprise me if they have the same issues as well....
More interesting reading on the subject...
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/02q2/speedometer_scandal!-feature
Hint: indicated speed in mph-@5 mph= true speed in mph
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I agree... It isn't the wheel diameter or circumference that has an effect, its the tire's outer circumference that determines the effect...if any.
Did you have the same experience on the 328xi, 2011? Please share. I have driven a BMW before, but never noticed such a thing. Your reply is highly appreciated.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks.
I definitely agree with your last sentence.
As you know, driving characteristics heavily influence oil quality.
I've used synthetic oils for years (well before they were "cool"), and because most of my family's trips are relatively short, I change the oil every 5K miles. But, if I had, say... a 75 mile (each way) commute 5 days a week, I would feel safe extending that 5K range to 7.5K, or maybe 10k.
I would say that, for most, the real enemy of engines is the lack of reaching true operating temperature in order to "cook out" the moisture in the oil.
That's why I find it difficult to give a "one size fits all" recommendation to someone when the ask my opinion on oil change frequency.
In the end, the only true way to determine what is best for an individual auto is a professional oil analysis...at least, IMHO...
2003 325i
http://www.bimmershops.com/
That is indeed the company line, so he's telling you what BMW suggests. Of course, all BMW is really interested in (as is every manufacturer) is getting the car through warranty, and most oil-related failures don't happen within the first 50K miles...
There are many of us that don't agree with that suggestion, and we see an oil change every 5-7.5 K miles as cheap insurance against what may be an incredibly expensive engine repair.
The oild change "timing" question on BMW's seems to be the #2 issue in new BMW's, only being surpassed by the run-flat issue.
Again, the only sure way to know the condition of YOUR oil is to get an independent oil analysis done.
Its pretty easy, and not terribly expensive.
On the other hand, I was having my wife's MINI serviced recently, and the advisor was on the phone with a client, explaining that he was getting a new engine/turbo unit on his 10 month old MINI (which was in for its first monitor-scheduled service at 18K miles) due to oil related engine failure. He was lucky, as it was under warranty.
IMO, I change it every year or 5K miles. Maybe some see that as foolish, but I have only had 1 engine related failure in all my years (I'm 56) and lots of cars, and that failure was a leaking valve guide/seal that was an issue the day I bought the car... and fixed before it had 4K miles on it.
All I can say is...."It works for me!".