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Can you guess I'm enjoying 40? (And a 5-speed)
you want to drive around in a box, by all means get the xB (Is that why they call it that?)
That said, actually selling a 5-speed can be a bit of a trick, since most people do prefer autos and cars like the Elantra are likely to wind up as student cars in their second and third lives. When I dealt with this decision, it was easy, the auto was just too sluggish for me to consider. Living in AZ means always having the AC on, and the auto running the AC was a definite dog under my toes. The 5-speed is marginally better, having the pickup when under AC that the auto has without AC on.
I do find rowing my gears in heavy traffic to be a bit of a chore and autos are covered under most warranties better than manuals...so it becomes a basic even split on the merits. In the end, choose what you like and don't worry about the $600 at the other end. You will save that up front by not selecting the auto.
I think the 5-speed, especially when not running the AC, is a bit sporty...at least as much fun as my BMW 318ti (similar HP) for the basic get up and go. The BMW was geared better for performance...but the Elantra can be wound out for satisfying drives when the urge strikes.
Good luck.
Your statement that the xB has more leg room than the Elantra is incorrect(at least according to Spec sheets that Edmunds has). The Elantra has 3.5" more rear leg room and 5" more in rear hip room. In fact, the Elanta compares quite favorably to mid-sized sedans in interior dimensions (especially the hatch) although you would not guess it looking at the outside.
Good luck with whatever you end up purchasing.
Speaking of the transmission, I went for the stick without ever having driven one on roads before. Price was a nice benefit, but I knew I'd want to milk more juice out of the engine, and it's just so much more fun!
Also, consider rebates on the Elantra GT. Right now they're running $2000 off MSRP, and that's before any attempt at haggling. I went to a no-haggle dealer and paid $11,622 for the car before TTL. Leather seats, alloys, foglights... that's a lot of car for eleven and a half thousand. I don't know that Scion can do that.
In case you couldn't tell (/sarcasm), I'm pretty pleased with the car after the first month.
i have been driving my GT for 13 months now with about 30,000 miles driven. If you ask whether i am still having fun? sure thing!
my co-workers and i go to out lunch pretty often and one day i ended up driving. I am 5'8" myself, but my co-workers were 6'1", 6'8" and 6'6"
respectively. 6'6" fit in the front passenger with no problems did not need to adjust from my default passenger position. 6'8" was seated behind the front passenger and said that he had plenty of room, no need to adjust. and obviously, 6'1" coworker was fine sitting behind me. So with a car full of tall people, the GT handled it nicely. We probably could not squeeze another person in between the rear, but the point is that legroom is very generous.
To make the driving more fun, add a sway bar to stiffen up the ride. Good fun there!
exactly the same color/configuration/age. I don't
know how it is in south Florida, but in Atlanta I
never see any GT's advertised for sale so if you
post it it might sell quickly. Just make sure it
goes to a good home!
I am in a bit of a bind with cash. About 6 months ago I purchased a new Hyundai Elantra GT - black, manual (much more pep than auto) with the moonroof option and of course the super cool new kenwood color cycling audio system.
I love the car and it is in mint/new condition, but I am an actor/producer and trying to get my new production company off the ground so my costs are tight right now and while the payment isn't to bad $287 a month, the insurance is killing me here in ft laud at about $180 a month. Together it is highe than I can afford right now so I am considering selling the car, but how would I go about doing this? I can't find any prices on 2004 used elantra gts.
The payoff amount is $12,500 so buying it would be considerably cheaper for someone than buying a new one with the same options that would go for about $16,000.
I haven't fully decided if I am going to sell it or not but how would I go about doing it if I want to? Just advertise the price for $12,500 and find someone willing to buy it for that, then they get their own loan, or can they take over payments. I'm not exactly sure how ti would work.
Any info would be appreciated. As I'm saying I hope I don't have to do this but if I don't being in more cash in the next month or so I may have to, as I don't want to have a repo on my hands!
Thanks,
- Michael
01-03 GLS 80W Clarion (4 sp)
01-03 GT 100W Clarion (6 sp)
04+up GT 100W Kenwood (6 sp)
Ignition/clutch switch on manual: A few months ago, I noticed that once in a while, my car would not start on the first try. I would depress the clutch and get nothing, nadda, zilch. Last week, the problem suddenly went from once in a great while to every other time. So I dropped it off. Result: warranty replaced the now-faulty Clutch Switch Assembly. If you have a manual and have trouble with starts, that could be the culprit. The biggest syptom was having to press the clutch extra deep into the floor to get the engine to turn over.
Fuel Pump recall. My 2003 turned up a fuel pump recall when I brought it in, replaced under warranty.
Spoiler Tape: Second time I have had to bring him in for a little triage on the spoiler adhesive tape. The tape seems to slip after car washes and become visible, usually on the right hand side of the spoiler (passenger side).
CD/Radio issue: When hitting bumps, my radio would attempt to change to the CD player (with a cd loaded) and then back. Certain CDRs were not loading and playing correctly, and I was not happy. They replaced the unit, albeit with the same crappy one as before - was hoping they would upgrade me to the 2004 model radio (wanted that MP3 player) but I didn't think to ask until it was too late...not that they would have been able to anyway.
All in all, these are minor problems. I am still happy with the car, after the new switch was put in, the car drove tight for a few miles, it actually felt good, nice clutch action. Now it feels more like normal (or did I get used to it?).
My Hyundai's issues:
door tape around the window seal - replaced
spoiler tape under right side - trimmed or replaced twice
dead battery - replaced
lose clip on coolant return - replaced
bad clutch switch assembly - replaced
blown speaker - replaced
mal-performing CD player - replaced
recalled fuel pump - replaced
Not bad, minor, minor issues in the big picture. Some cosmetics, a bad battery, and some cheap electronics (what do you expect?) - otherwise the car has been pretty solid.
Now some, with this many problems would be shouting and crying about their "lemon" cars...I am perfectly happy with the performance and durability of this car. No complaints. The dealer is always very helpful (Pitre in Phx) and I appreciate the way they have not once said to me, "uh, we can't duplicate the problem, so tough luck."
I was convinced that Hyundai had turned the corner. Now I am convinced that they are every bit as good as Honda and Toyota. My Civic had similar issues and worse (twice losing my power window, having it fall off its track in the middle of a MN winter). My used BMW had similar problems (bad batteries and a bad window regulator.
The GT has better AC, better seats, and still looks good after the one-year anniversary. (14 months and counting.)
Would I recommend a GT to a friend, you bet, but I would still stick with the manual. If you want an auto, go the whole nine and get the Sonata.
I do have a question about the trip computer. What kind of accuracy should I be expecting from the calculations for miles per gallon and miles left until I run out of gas? Is there a fudge factor built into the miles to empty calculation or is it really accurate?
Thanks and now I am going for a drive.
will love it!
As for the trip computer, I find that mine usually overstates
the MPG by 1-2 miles, and when miles to empty gets
below 30 and changes to ---, I can get about 12 gallons in,
so there are about 2 - 2 1/2 gallons left. Depending
on the mpg you get that may last 60 to 75 miles.
This is for 2004 with auto and pkg 8.
http://quote.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=10000087&sid=adq5bbR- - - - T6XIo&refer=top_world_news
http://203.210.108.22/dailynewsstory.cfm/newsid/25692/story.htm
They have Miami, Orlando and Tampa Bay sites. Between those three, you shouldn't have too much trouble. I've had nothing but GREAT luck selling all sorts of things on the LA site, and best of all, it's FREE to post.
Just list it at the price you want to sell it for ... factoring in Kelly Blue Book &/or Edmunds suggested resale value. Regardless of how new it is or what kind of condition you've kept it in, it's still a USED car.
Good luck!! :-)
I bought a new 2003 GT model here in Toronto – a great car, a great deal!
We only have 2K on it. So far our car is fun to drive. The only annoying thing is a strange, whistle-like sound, coming from the engine or under-body area when I hit
the speed of 100 km/hr or above. It could be a wind, I presume - or anything else?
Does anybody know what I am talking about??? Please suggest.
Many thanks,
Vlad
ElantraStan
V.
thank you
Select "Technical Info".
Select "Elantra" and "3 - 2003" from the Model and Year drop-downs, then click the "TSB" tab.
Select "60 - Body" in the tree window.
Select "03-60-002 2001-03 Elantra Wind Noise..."
Assuming that you're using Internet Explorer...
Highlight some text in the rightmost panel.
From your browser menu, select "File" / "Print Preview"
When the page image loads, change "As laid out on screen" in the drop-down, to "Only the selected frame". You can then print all six pages.
V
It's a shame this happened after the warranty period ended, but I did see that others have had some problems with the clock.
Can anyone shed some light on what the problem might be? Loose wiring? Bad clock? I'd rather try to fix it myself than shell out major money to the Hyundai dealer.
Now, if I can just figure out how to remove the dash facing to access the clock . . .
If you really want to know, it's just 4 screws and alot of pulling. 2 screws above the instrument cluster and 2 behind the ash tray, then the entire dark gray plastic panel from the drivers side vent to the shift console pops out... vents and all. The hard part is knowing just how hard to pry without breaking the plasic. I believe the clock is screwed to the panel from behind.
It's kind of neat to see your 'naked' dash once you get the panel out though.
Niels
What is funny is that it displays the correct time when it does decide to work, so it is keeping time, just not displaying the time 90% of the time.
I guess I can live without it. Better a clock issue than something bigger. . .
-------------------------------------------
This is because the clock is DEFECTIVE and requires a trip to the dealer to make use of your warranty.
"Handling performance was comparable to Corollas and Civics of the 80's; while the ride was none too compliant, body control was poor, and the GT has a scary proclivity to pitch and bob in transitions. The steering also felt rather lifeless. We did come up with a neat trick to double the mushy brakes' performance; we dragged our feet out the door."
Haven't read this kind of negative drivel about a Hyundai product in years. Ouch...
Funny how R&T raved about the handling of the GT when they tested it.
To which cars did the magazine compare the GT?
I agree the Mazda3s is a better car than the Elantra GT, but I don't know where you can buy a 3s with moonroof, ABS/traction, automatic, SABs, MP3 player, leather, and a 10-year warranty for $13k + T&L.